The sun's rays were still new and struggling through the mist when the "sighthounds" came to play on a breathtaking piece of land overlooking the ocean an hour or so south of San Francisco. Lure coursing may be a sport to the humans who put days like these on their calendars, but to the dogs who compete it is joy unleashed.

Sighthounds were designed to track game by eye, not nose, and to give chase, and their bodies reflect the work they were bred to do. Deep-chested and long-legged, with elegant necks and wise, narrow faces, the dogs danced at the ends of their leashes or waited impatiently in exercise pens. The humans who brought them in the smattering of vans and motor homes so common to any canine event might have had rules, titles and glory on their minds. For the dogs, there was but one goal: They came to run.

Like most dogs today, they don't get much chance to. We have meddled from the beginning with our canine companions, developing dogs to retrieve, to dig out and dispatch vermin, to pull sleds, to run down game. Few dogs do any of these things today, and it says a great deal for the strong bond we have with this species that most are content to spend their days alone in our homes and yards and their evenings in our company.

Some of the more dedicated dog-lovers are determined to provide more, which is how three dozen or so dogs and their owners ended up in such beautiful surroundings on a cool fall morning.

Lure coursing is sort of a compromise sport from the start. Hounds were bred for specific prey, but we have thankfully little stomach today for watching cherished pets tear the entrails from living creatures, be they rabbits, deer, wolves or even lions. The compromise is chasing a "rabbit" that is anything but: white garbage bags secured to a line powered by a small engine. The lure whips through the field just a bit faster than the dogs run, with a jerky rhythm and sudden turns meant to duplicate the run of startled prey.

The morning's runs were for the beginners, brought to the start by their owners and held firm until the "rabbit" ran.

The instinct to chase clicked in with dogs who had never been exposed to any opportunity to do as their ancestors had for centuries. They ran with intensity and joy so palpable that onlookers stilled to concentrate on the fleet-footed animals. The steam that rose from cups of coffee was the only other thing moving until each run was done.

Christie Keith, one of a pair of friends who had invited me to watch, has been in love with sighthounds for nearly 20 years. She has put coursing titles on many of her Scottish deerhounds, including two dogs who became both field and show champions. My other friend, Linda Batson, was new to the coursing but not to her breed: Her Rhodesian ridgebacks are some of the very best in the country at dog shows.

Their dogs did well, as did most of the dogs at the trial. Titles were won and prizes awarded. For my friends, though, that seemed like icing on the cake, with the treat being the opportunity to talk dogs with others just as fervent, and, of course, to watch dogs run.

"It's beautiful," said Keith, and despite the astonishing surroundings it was clear that she was talking about only one thing: The sight of a lanky dog stretched long with effort, running, running, running as fast as the winds kicking off the ocean.

"They love to run," she said. "And I love to see them."

It's a sight I cannot wait to see again.

PETS ON THE WEB

You can find information on lure coursing from the Web site of the American Sighthound Field Association (www.asfa.org), which sanctions field trials throughout the United States for 11 sighthound breeds. The site explains the rules, the titles available to competitors, and includes both information on upcoming events and results from trials past. The American Kennel Club (www.akc.org) oversees its own lure coursing events, and offers information on its trials, rules and titles on its Web site -- put "lure coursing" in the page's search engine to find the information fastest.

PET TIP

The popularity of reptile pets has more than a few public-health experts concerned about salmonella, a bacteria present in the intestinal tracts of pets such as iguanas. A salmonella infection can make healthy people violently ill and can be lethal to the very young or very elderly, or those with compromised immune systems. For those people, as well as pregnant women, reptilian pets are not advised.

For others who enjoy these exotic pets, common sense dictates careful attention to basic good hygiene. Iguanas should not be allowed to walk on counters where food is prepared or eaten, nor should they be given baths in sinks or tubs that humans use. After handling these pets or cleaning their cages, be sure to wash your hands in warm, soapy water. Since iguanas and other reptiles are often children's pets, be sure your children get the message, too.

Finally, keep things in perspective: Although salmonella infections traced to pets have risen along with the popularity of iguanas and other reptiles, reported cases are still low -- a few dozen nationwide every year. A few basic precautions are all you need to keep from being one of those statistics.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Regarding your "tip" on using a "power tool" on a difficult animal's nails -- are you crazy? I've been a groomer for 10 years and would never think of using a power tool on a pet that is already petrified of this procedure. It would take longer, and the noise alone would scare any animal! -- C.P., via the Internet

Q: I asked my veterinarian's office about your recent note on using a grinder on dog nails. They said they'd never heard of such a thing. What gives? -- C.R., via the Internet.

A: Yes, I'm crazy, but not when it comes to grinding nails on dogs. So many dog owners, breeders and show handlers do it, the company that makes the dominant brand of pet clippers, Oster, also makes a pet-nail grinder. (I find the multipurpose Dremel a better fit for my hand, but that's just personal preference.)

I agree that it may not be the best tool for a professional groomer, who doesn't have the time to slowly introduce the animal to the grinder over time. (As for it being a "power tool," though, what an odd concern. What do you think clippers are?)

For patient pet owners, though, this is a nail-maintenance technique that can prove superior -- easier on both dogs and owners. When you grind nails, there's no guessing where the quick is, no bleeding when you cut too far. With grinding, the nail is shortened in tiny, tiny increments, which gives you time to stop before you get into any trouble.

Let me again stress the word "patient." Introduce the grinder to your dog by tapping his nail with the power off, and then by turning it on an arm's length away. Praise and call it a day. When the pet is comfortable with the sound, bring it close enough to touch a nail tip while on and no more. More praise, another lesson over. Eventually you'll be able to grind off the tip and smooth up the sides of each nail.

It took me a long month of small steps -- done while watching TV in the evenings, mostly -- to get my big retriever, Benjamin, used to the grinder. But he almost relaxes when his big nails are ground now, which is a big change from the hatred he had for getting his nails clipped. My friend Penny, who has been grinding nails on her massive Irish wolfhounds for years, says she hasn't the strength to cut through those monster nails -- grinding is the only thing that works for her.

If you and your dog are happy with clipping, by all means stick with it. I have been clipping my oldest dog's nails for a dozen years and have no reason to change. But if you are having problems, grinding is an option.

One final point: Wear a dust mask while you work. To get a good look at what you're doing, you'll be close enough to breathe in the dust from the grinding -- and it can be irritating.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

As much as I hate foxtails, I have to admit that their design is nothing short of amazing. And besides, admiring them is much better than swearing when I'm gripping a comb and easing dozens of them out of the silky leg feathers of my three resident dogs.

Don't expect me to rhapsodize about fleas, though. My charitable nature goes only so far.

Dried to a tawny gold by a long, hot summer, foxtails are everywhere these days, their long, slender stems holding sticky seed carriers high, ready to catch a ride on a pant leg or a pet. The carrier itself is designed like a spike, with tiny hairs placed to keep the nettle burrowing forward through whatever material is in the way.

There's no problem when the spike falls to the ground, of course, where breezes help it to vibrate deep into the soil. But when a foxtail lands on an animal, all too often that burrowing trick is through flesh, and that can cause some severe problems. Foxtails dig deeply into every possible opening. Once in, they keep moving, sometimes causing significant damage. They can end up anywhere, and if left alone, may need surgical attention in time. Dogs may sneeze at them, but you shouldn't; they can put your pet in danger.

This is the time of year when the grasses are dry and foxtails rule the day. Be aware of these problem sites:

-- Feet. Limping and licking are signs a foxtail has found a home, probably between an animal's toes.

-- Ears. Because of the burrowing nature of foxtails, every head shake drives the pest farther down into the ear. A pet with a foxtail in its ear may develop a chronic, foreign-body reaction and infection.

-- Nose. Because dogs like to sniff, foxtails often lodge in their noses. The signs are obvious: sneezing, sometimes violently, sometimes accompanied by bleeding or discharge. A foxtail in the nose will cause an infection and can even work its way into the lungs or spinal column.

The best way to deal with foxtails is through prevention. Steer clear of areas dense with foxtails, if you can. Keep the fur between your pet's toes trimmed, and go over your pet after every outing from head to toe, catching the foxtails before they get a chance to dig in.

Be aware that once a foxtail is imbedded, it isn't going away. If you suspect a foxtail is in your pet's ear or nose, consult your veterinarian. Your veterinarian may still be able to grab the nettle before it can cause too much more trouble.

PETS ON THE WEB

Let's start with what you really need to know if you're going to go in-line skating with your dog. "This is not recommended if you are not 100 percent comfortable on your skates!" notes Caryn Shalita, dog-lover, skating fan and Web page keeper. Born with two left feet and a pretty pathetic sense of balance, I won't be taking any of my dogs skating soon. But if you want to try it, Shalita's "How to In-Line Skate With Your Dog" Web site (www.caryn.com/francis-blade.html) is the place to learn how.

Rule No. 1: Safety gear, for everything including your tailbone. For your dog, a long leash that restrains from under the armpits instead of the neck. The site includes instructions on training your dog as well as letters from other dog-loving skaters on what worked best for them. There are lots of links to sites about skating and dog activities, along with a few off-topic but interesting areas, including a tribute to Princess Diana, and Shalita's resume, acting credits and efforts to get herself cast on a number of top shows. She and her dog, Francis, did get a part in a film called "The Dog People" as -- and isn't this perfect -- in-line skaters.

PET TIP

Thinking about keeping your cat inside? Good for you. While the easiest time to make the conversion is when you and your cat move to a new home, you can make the change anytime, if you resolve to be firm.

Cats are highly territorial, and the day you reduce your cat's territory by cutting off the outdoor part is the day you're going to start hearing about it -- lots. Don't give in. If you allow the meows and stares to wear you down to the point of opening the door, you've taught your cat a lesson you'd rather he didn't know: "All I need to do is put up a fuss, and I get what I want." If you try to keep him inside again, he's going to be even more obnoxious.

Be patient but firm. Dissuade him from the door with a shot of water from a spray bottle and keep him occupied with toys, play sessions and lots of love. Within a couple weeks, your cat will settle in to his new routine, and you no longer need worry about the dangers he faces outdoors.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We're going crazy with our puppy, a 4-month-old Labrador. He chews everything! How can we stop this destructive behavior? -- C.S., via the Internet

A: All puppies chew. So would you, if your gums drove you as crazy as theirs do, especially when adult teeth are coming in around 4 months of age. The trick is to redirect the behavior by keeping things you don't want your puppy to chew on out of reach. Don't allow your puppy the unsupervised run of the house, give him approved chews and praise him for using them.

Some objects, such as table legs, are not capable of being picked up and put away. Discourage chewing on these by applying Bitter Apple (available in pet-supply stores) to favorite spots. The taste is so horrible your puppy won't put a tongue on it again. Tabasco sauce is another safe pup-stopper.

When you catch your puppy chewing on something he shouldn't, don't make a big deal out of it. Clap your hands to distract him, give him an approved toy and cue him by giving him a word to associate, like "chewbone." Then praise your pup for chewing the right item.

Avoid toys that resemble things you'd rather have left alone. Rope toys resemble rug fringes, and old shoes are too much like new ones. Choose sturdy rubber toys in a variety of shapes, sizes and textures, but make sure one of your pup's toys is the indestructible Kong dog toy, truly a pet toy Hall of Famer. The Kong comes in a variety of sizes, is great for playing and chewing, and can even be stuffed with a little peanut butter to add to its appeal.

Be fair: Never leave your puppy in a position to make his own decisions on what is or isn't acceptable to chew. If you cannot observe your puppy, put him in a safe area -- a crate, ideally, but also a small area like a laundry porch with a baby gate across the door. Make sure you leave some of those approved chew toys behind to keep him busy.

The worst chewing will be over when your puppy's adult teeth are in, but dogs need and like to chew. You can't stop it, nor should you try. Teaching your puppy now what chewing behavior is acceptable - remember, they're not born with this information - will set up a long, happy relationship.

Q: I saw a beautiful cat at the veterinarian's office. The owner said it was a "sumally." Could you tell me more about this breed and where to get one? - G.H, via the Internet.

A. The Somali is indeed a lovely cat! The breed is a long-haired version of the pantherish Abyssinian, and shares many of the personality traits of its more-popular relative. Abyssinians and Somalis are both active, intelligent and playful, more interested in keeping tabs on what you're doing than spending the day napping in the sun.

The best way to find a Somali is to visit a cat show and talk to breeders. You'll find listings of upcoming events in magazines such as Cat Fancy.

The Abyssinian isn't the only popular breed with a different-coated relation, by the way. The Balinese has many of the characteristics of the Siamese, but with a longer coat. And for those who fancy the Persian's distinctive short face and heavy body type but don't want to deal with all that fur, there's the Exotic/Exotic Shorthair (same cat, different names depending on the governing body).

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

No matter how much you may enjoy company, there's something wonderful about having your house for your own family again. That's true even when the guests are animals. Much as I enjoy having a "guest dog" (or two, or three), I really enjoy seeing their owners take them home.

Of course, sometimes you can't predict when the homecoming will happen, such as when you find a stray. I'm always finding strays, and the recent holiday weekend was no exception. The dog was standing in the center of a busy intersection with little concern for the cars honking at him. I stopped and whistled. He came right over. I opened the door. He jumped right in. This is the story of my life.

No tag, no collar, no microchip. And no way to place an ad until the weekend was over. The dog was sweet and good-natured, with perfect manners. Surely someone was missing him horribly.

She was. The call came early on the day my ad appeared, from a loving owner clearly relieved to have her dog back. But why should the dog have had to be separated from his family for three days? If he'd just had ID, he could have been home in an hour.

"No ID" is one of my pet peeves -- and one of the most senseless ways to put your dog at risk. Here are some others to consider and to avoid:

-- Letting him off the leash. The sight of joggers with unleashed dogs along busy byways fills me with a sense of dread, for I've heard from too many people who've lost dogs this way. It only takes a second for your dog to be hit by a car. And you can never, ever get that second or your dog back. Leash 'em up!

-- Giving him inappropriate toys and chews. Most everyone knows that some chews, like cooked poultry bones, must be off-limits to every dog, but one of the potentially most dangerous chews is something few people ever recognize as a threat: a tennis ball.

There's no harm in throwing a tennis ball to your dog. The problem is in LEAVING a tennis ball with your dog, especially if he's a strong chewer. That's because many dogs like to hold the ball in their mouth and compress them. Occasionally such a ball will pop into the dog's throat, where it can be almost impossible to dislodge. With no way to breathe, a dog can die this way in short order.

Instead of letting your pet chew on tennis balls, choose toys made for heavy-duty gnawing, such as Kongs and Nylabones.

-- Leaving him in a car on a warm day. Even balmy weather can be deadly to a dog in a car. On an 80-degree day, the temperature in a car, even if the windows are open a crack, can easily reach 120 degrees within minutes. That can kill a dog in minutes.

It's never a good idea to leave a dog in a car. If the heat doesn't get him, there's always a chance a thief might.

-- Using poisons carelessly. Slug and snail bait kill a lot of pets every year, and each death was preventable. Do NOT put out such poisons in areas where your pet or other animals can get to them. Use all household chemicals properly and carefully, and clean up any spills promptly.

-- Leaving on a "choke collar." The moving ring on a choke collar can catch on many things, such as a gap in a chain-link fence or even the tooth of another dog. Once the collar is caught, the dog will pull away, a move that only makes the situation worse. Should you be lucky enough to be there to help, you may end up badly scratched and bitten -- and still have a dead dog. Never leave a choke collar on a dog as his regular collar; use buckle or quick-connects only, please.

If you put an ID on your pet and avoid the rest of these mistakes, you've cut the risk of losing your dog by a considerable degree.

PETS ON THE WEB

More people than ever before are dedicated to keeping others informed about animals, judging from the rapid growth of two trade groups: the decades-old Dog Writers Association of America and its upstart counterpart, the Cat Writers' Association.

Both groups offer support to hundreds of people engaged in some form of communication regarding animals, from writing to photography to Web-page design, and both offer an annual competition to reward the best efforts in dozens of categories.

For the first time, however, the two groups, which share a high percentage of common members, are joining forces to offer a writers' conference, Nov. 20-22 in Kansas City, Mo. Details are available on the CWA's spiffy new Web site (www.catwriters.org), and should be on the DWAA's site soon (www.dwaa.org).

Information on the contests and membership are also available on the sites, along with some links to Web sites of the groups' respective members. (Information on the conference is also available by "snail mail." Send a self-addressed, business-sized envelope to CWA President Amy D. Shojai, P.O. Box 1904, Sherman, Texas 75091-1904.)

PET TIP

While most people nowadays have more sense and compassion than to say "it's just a pet" to someone who has just lost one, the time after an animal's death is still a difficult time for many people.

Fortunately, in recent years services have been established to help, and the majority of them are free except for the cost of a phone call. Many veterinary schools offer pet-loss support hot lines staffed by student volunteers. The programs are good for the people on both ends of the phone line. They give people who need it another animal-lover to talk to, and they offer veterinarians-to-be the chance to learn how best to deal with distraught clients.

Contact your closest school or college of veterinary medicine, or ask your veterinarian about these marvelous programs.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Our dog Molly is always eating. She eats her food and then the cat's food. We put the cat's food up high on a desk outside, hoping to keep Molly from eating it. No luck; she gets up on the desk. Can dogs have an eating disorder? She's not skinny, nor is she active. What can I do to help her? -- F.H., via the Internet.

A: She does have an eating disorder. It's called obesity. Fortunately, you can help her with it. Have your veterinarian check her out to make sure she's otherwise healthy, and to suggest changes in diet and exercise that will help her. "Light" foods offer more bulk with fewer calories and can help animals feel "full," and may be a better option than cutting back rations.

Cat food isn't good for dogs, and you're on the right track in your efforts to keep her out of it. Try feeding the cat on the other side of a baby gate, or a cat door if Molly is too big to fit through one. The baby-gate/cat-door strategy is also a good one to use for dogs who like to cruise litter boxes for "snacks," by the way, a common and thoroughly disgusting habit many dogs enjoy wholeheartedly.

Q: We haven't had a cat for years, but we were recently adopted by a one we think belonged to someone in the neighborhood, but she likes us better. We had her spayed and vaccinated, and the vet pushed a rabies shot. Is that necessary? -- H.M., via the Internet

A: Congratulations on being adopted. Cats seem to know where they're needed most, and it's obvious your heart was ready for feline companionship again. Kudos, too, for seeing to your pet's health needs, and ensuring you won't have more pets than you can handle by getting her spayed.

As for your question: Yes, it's necessary. Your veterinarian isn't trying to push anything except proper preventive care for you and your new pet. Vaccination is so important for your cat that in many areas it's required by law.

The risk of contracting rabies from your cat, or any pet, is small, but it does exist. Because outdoor cats constantly cross paths with wild animals, the most common carriers of rabies, they're at higher risk for being bitten and subsequently passing along the disease to you.

And that's why vaccination is so important. Although it can be treated if caught early, rabies is a fatal disease once established in the body, and a handful of people die of it every year. Rabies is one disease where animals are vaccinated as much for the protection of humans as for the animal itself.

The risk to you and your new pet is too great to take on just to save the cost of a simple vaccine.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600