Anyone who has ever pulled out a credit card at the emergency clinic for something that wasn't an emergency comes away wishing for a better knowledge of what constitutes an urgent situation -- and what doesn't. But as big an "ouch" as a nonemergency can be to the budget, it's a lot better than the opposite situation: an emergency that goes untreated until it's too late for your pet.

But how can you tell? The signs of a healthy pet are pretty apparent to an observant pet owner: bright, clear eyes with no sign of discharge; clean ears, free of buildup or smell; a mouth not overpowered by its odor, with pink gums free of infection; a nose that appears moist, with no discharge; a shiny coat, with unblemished skin below that snaps back easily when pulled away from the shoulders. A healthy attitude, a healthy appetite and normal thirst are part of the package, too, without signs of intestinal upset. No lameness, no swelling. No heavy panting.

Anything to the contrary is reason for concern. But is it an emergency?

The first way to start finding out is with a thermometer. Pet thermometers are available at pet-supply stores or you can use one designed for humans. Just be sure to put the latter in a special place so there are no mix-ups.

To take your pet's temperature, put a little water-based lubricant on the tip of the thermometer and insert it in the animal's fanny. After a minute or so, remove and check the temperature. Normal is between 100 and 102.5 for dogs and cats; anything below 99 or above 103 is worth checking with a veterinarian, day or night.

Some other trouble indicators include seizure, fainting or collapse, as well as any suspected poisoning, including antifreeze, rodent or snail bait, or human medication. Snake or spider bites, too, demand immediate attention. Cats in particular can be fatally sensitive to insecticides (such as flea-control medications that are safe for dogs), petroleum-based products or medications such as Tylenol.

Sometimes situations that might not seem urgent really are, even such as mild eye injuries or allergic reactions -- swelling around the face or hives. A single incident of vomiting or diarrhea is probably nothing, but anything more than two or three times within an hour or so could indicate a serious problem. Other signs of possible serious conditions are breathing problems, chronic coughing, or difficulties urinating or defecating, especially in cats.

Animals can sometimes seem fine after accidents, such as being hit by a car, exposed to extreme heat or cold, or being cut or bitten. Beware! Your pet may have internal problems that may be lethal if not attended to quickly.

There are also situations that may not be life-threatening but are certainly painful enough to warrant immediate veterinary attention. Some of the signs of an animal in pain include panting, labored breathing, lethargy or restlessness, loss of appetite, aggression, hiding or crying out. While it may be possible to wait until your regular veterinarian is available, put yourself in your pet's place. Don't let your pet suffer!

Make best use of this column by saving it in your phone book and writing the phone number of your regular veterinarian and the phone number and directions to the nearest emergency clinic on it, so all the information is ready when you need it. And always remember: When in doubt, call a veterinarian.

It's better to make a trip you needn't have than to miss the one you should have made.

PETS ON THE WEB

Many people have discovered that greyhounds are wonderful pets. Thousands of people have adopted one of these "40 mph couch potatoes" in recent years, but activists claim outreach programs are little more than public relations for an industry with lots of explaining to do. Some greyhound groups work within the system, adopting out dogs on the condition that they not publicly criticize the racing industry. Others encourage adoptions but refuse to be muzzled, calling for an end to racing.

One of the strongest voices for greyhounds is the Greyhound Protection League, and they make their case powerfully on their well-designed Web site (www.greyhounds.org). It's not always easy reading, but it's good to know someone's looking out for these animals. The site documents abuse and common practices that would give most pet lovers pause. Also included are links to groups that facilitate adoptions of these gentle dogs.

PET TIP

Many cats love to nibble plants, some for the fiber, some because their tummies are upset, and some, well, they just like it. A kitty garden is easy to grow and gives your pet something to chew on besides your houseplants. You can find seeds in garden centers and some pet-supply stores.

What to plant? Catnip and valerian are two plants cats really adore, so much that you have to sow them in a cat-proof area or they'll never get beyond the seedling stage. After the plants are large enough to stand it, trim some for rubbing on cat trees and posts, stuffing in toys or offering plain to your pet.

Grasses such as alfalfa, rye and wheat are more attractive as tender seedlings; always keep a batch growing for your cat's grazing pleasure. Finally, parsley and thyme can be grown both indoors and out, and many cats like them.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I am looking for information on border collies and behavioral problems. My puppy is hyper. She chews on furniture and baseboards and digs in the yard. She's driving us crazy!

Will this dog ever be normal? I know they are supposed to be smart, but are they trainable? -- M.S., Sacramento, Calif.

A: Border collies are about the most trainable dogs ever born, but they need an owner who will keep both their fantastic mind and agile body engaged. Call it the "Babe" effect, if you will, but public exposure in recent years hasn't done this handsome breed a lot of good. Too many people see good looks and intelligence and don't think about what it's like to live with a dog who has both a strong work ethic and enough brains to do your taxes.

The good news is you don't have to buy a small herd of sheep to keep your border collie happy, although they likely won't complain if you do. These dogs excel in all manner of dog sports, including obedience, agility, fly ball and Frisbee. Even if you don't go in for organized sports, frequent, hard exercise and lots of mental challenges will keep this breed happy. They learn tricks easily.

A puppy class is a great start, but don't hesitate to work individually with a good trainer or behaviorist on your pet's problems. Your trainer can probably tell you about dog sports clubs in your area, as well.

Q: My family was thinking about getting a small dog, and my mom said she wanted a dog like Verdell from "As Good as It Gets." Do you know what kind of dog he/she was? Also, could you tell me how much a puppy would cost? -- L.G., via the Internet

A: The scene-stealing fuzz face -- hey, why didn't the dog get an Oscar? -- in "As Good as It Gets" is a Brussels Griffon. According to the American Kennel Club, this sturdy toy breed was originally developed in Northern Europe from German ratters and Belgian street dogs. Their primary purpose was to keep stables free of rodents. Later, the pug was introduced, which is why the breed today comes in either smooth (shorthaired) or rough (wirehaired) varieties. Those who love them say the Brussels is very intelligent and a tad stubborn.

Costs for any purebred puppy vary widely. Show-quality youngsters generally fetch more than pet-quality, although the latter may have nothing "wrong" except a misplaced marking or similar trait faulted in the show ring. Toy breed puppies are often more expensive than larger dogs because little dogs have small litters. Brussels Griffons were never that common, and their brush with fame will make them even harder to find now.

As always, your best bet will be dealing with a reputable, experienced hobby breeder. (Check out a dog show.) Whenever any breed gets media exposure, whether it's the border collie, Dalmatian or St. Bernard, opportunistic folks hustle into the breeding game, to the detriment of the dogs and the people who buy them. Buyer beware.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Can a dozen years have possibly passed since the day when I first held Andy, an hours-old pup with beautiful markings and the beginnings, even then, of an attitude?

I remember him now as the prankster, a strong, handsome youngster who stalked the rainbirds in our yard and chewed holes in hampers to gain access to dirty socks and underwear. Toni and Lance, the dogs he drove crazy with his puppy pestering, have been gone for years. And now, Andy himself has little patience for the bounciness of the two young retrievers. He'd rather be left alone.

I console myself with the knowledge that he is in good health and make sure he gets the little extras his status demands -- extra car rides, special one-on-one couch time and games played with the retrievers put away, so Andy will win and not get jostled. He is still handsome: His eyes may be a little milky, but his coat is as lush and shiny as ever.

Those eyes scan my face more frequently than ever now, for Andy is hard-of-hearing and appears to be teaching himself to lip-read. I tested him the other day, mouthing the word "cookies." He ran to the place where they are kept. Clearly, his mind is as sharp as ever. I found myself saddened when he stopped greeting me at the door -- he doesn't hear me pull up these days -- but I've gotten used to it. I find him where he's sleeping and wake him, gently. He seems annoyed at being surprised, but his face soon changes to joy at seeing me. He smiles, and I smile back. I rumple his silken ears, and he yawns.

I am careful to see that he gets the care he needs: good veterinary care, good nutrition and light exercise. He sees his veterinarian regularly for a thorough exam, blood and urine tests, and dental cleaning.

The trick, I know, is to prevent the problems you can and catch early the ones you can't. He has had a lump removed here and there, but that's about it. I try to keep him lean and exercised to help his arthritis, and that, along with some vitamins and other medications, keeps him fairly limber.

I sometimes find myself preparing for the day he will leave me, imagining what my life would be like without his thoughtful presence. Other times, I refuse to consider the possibility he will not be with me forever. I don't care if I know better. I don't want to lose him, ever.

It leads you to look for answers where none exist�.

My co-author and friend, Dr. Paul Pion, is as good a veterinarian as you could possibly find, a cardiologist by specialty. I talk to him when I want information about high-tech and cutting-edge veterinary medicine, but he is just as capable of sharing good stuff on a more basic level. He would tell you that warm fuzzies are not his strong suit, but I, for one, would disagree.

"Paul," I said to him the other day, "you're so good, tell me how to keep Andy from getting old."

"Kisses," he said. "Lots of kisses."

If he's right, my little sheepdog will be with me for a long time yet. I doubt, though, it could ever be long enough to get used to the idea of being without him.

PETS ON THE WEB

Holy moly, you've hit the canine mother lode when you point your browser to the rec.pet.dogs FAQ Homepage (www.k9web.com/dog-faqs). Internet pioneer Cindy Tittle Moore has spent the last six years gathering and maintaining a top-notch collection of materials, including articles on breeds, activities, behavior and training, allergies and pup gear.

The site also includes the definitive list of canine-related list-serves, e-mail "clubs" devoted to a specific breed or topic. Moore's site is a serious labor of love and a true service to dogs and those who love them. Completely noncommercial, well-organized and easy to search, this site is simply the best out there. If you can't find the information you're looking for here, you may not be able to find it at all.

PET TIP

Any pirate will tell you the proper place for a parrot is on the shoulder, but that view is challenged by behaviorists. The problem, they say, is that such a lofty perch gives parrots both the wrong idea about their status and the ability to inflict real damage should they decide to bite.

In the parrot's point of view, being higher equals being better, and a bird with such a superior attitude is more likely to try to stay on top -- both figuratively and literally -- by biting. Some biting problems can be solved simply by lowering the perch to give family members a height advantage and by never letting the bird higher than midchest when out of the cage. And that means no shoulder perching. Behaviorists point out the shoulder is an extremely risky place to park a parrot because a bite here could lay open a cheek or damage an eye.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We live where it stays hot most of the year. When we bag up the litter lumps to put in the trash, it smells up the garage and the cans. We have two cats and change the box daily.

We are thinking about spreading the used litter in the vacant lot next to our house. There are no houses closer to us than about a block away. I don't want to do it if it isn't safe, but I would like to give our garbage man a break. -- D.V., Miami

A: Spreading soiled litter on the lot next door isn't a good idea, from either a health or smell perspective. The feces of cats may contain diseases and parasites that can be transmitted to humans and other pets who come in contact with it. You don't have to get up close to be bothered, either: If you've ever walked past a flower bed favored by the neighborhood cats, you'll know it by the stench. I'm afraid your lot will be just as pungent in short order if you go through with your plan.

You didn't mention what kind of litter you're using. If you're changing out a box of nonclumping litter every day, you can really cut down the bulk by switching to the clumping variety -- a few soiled lumps is all you'll be dealing with then. Invest in some Ziploc bags to put the cat waste in. Sealed up, they should make your garbage a lot more pleasant to deal with.

Q: I have recently gotten a puppy, and I am having problems with the way she deals with the cat. She loves to chase the cat and often will jump on the cat and sometimes pin her to the ground.

The cat doesn't seem to mind all that much and is usually able to get away all by herself. Sometimes, however, no matter how much I scold the puppy for attacking the cat, she (the puppy) will not stop. They seem to be friends at times (i.e., often they will exchange kisses), but this aggressive behavior worries me.

Does the dog want to harm the cat or just play with her? I really want them to get along, but I don't know what to do. -- T.P., via the Internet

A: I wouldn't call your puppy "aggressive." Seems to me the behavior is more playful than predatory. However, you have to understand that dogs have a natural instinct to chase anything that runs. Your cat, no matter how good-natured, shouldn't have to put up with being the object of a chase. She could get hurt.

I'd make two recommendations. First, I'd attach a leash to the puppy's collar so you can catch her when she's chasing. Instead of punishing her, call her to you, ask for a positive behavior like "sit" and praise her for doing it right. Second, I'd set up a room where your cat can get away from the puppy. Put a baby gate across the door of a bedroom. Your cat will be able to clear it easily, but your puppy won't be able to follow.

Your two pets seem to be on the road to being pals. I'd get your puppy into a class soon, though, so you can learn how to raise her into a dog who will get along with everyone.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

As common as anesthesia is in veterinary medicine, many misconceptions exist about its use, especially where older animals are concerned.

Yes, it is true that no anesthetic procedure is without risk. In the hands of a good veterinarian and his staff, however, anesthesia has become a routine and very safe procedure -- with risks so low that, with few exceptions, you should not be dissuaded from pursuing necessary preventive or other surgical procedures for your pet.

The risks can be greatly minimized by a history, physical examination and a few basic tests beforehand, including a laboratory evaluation of blood and urine, and possibly a chest X-ray. Although these tests admittedly add to the cost of a procedure, they enable your vet to fully understand the health status of your pet before anesthetizing him. During the procedure, placement of an IV catheter and administration of fluids can further add to the safety of the procedure.

The benefits of these tests and precautionary measures may be hard for many to recognize. But the tests provide a baseline against which to compare future results, and most important, in the rare situation where a problem develops, you'll be glad you had the forethought to insist upon having them performed.

No discussion of anesthetic danger can be complete without a few words on your responsibilities where anesthesia is concerned:

-- Follow your veterinarian's instructions on preparing your pet for surgery. If no food is specified, make sure that you deliver your pet with an empty stomach. Following this one piece of advice is one of the easiest and most basic ways to reduce risk. During anesthesia, the contents of a full stomach can be regurgitated with the unfortunate potential complication of being inhaled into the lungs. In general, you should completely withhold food the night before, but continue to allow free access to water until the morning of the procedure.

-- Be prepared to provide special home care for your pet after surgery. Releasing animals before sedation wears off fully may be common practice for some veterinarians. Such animals must be kept safe from hot or cold environments because their reflexes are reduced. If you do not feel comfortable caring for a sedated pet, arrange for your veterinarian to extend the care. If your veterinarian does not run a 24-hour hospital, be sure to have the number of your local emergency clinic handy in case there are any complications following your pet's anesthesia.

-- Don't hesitate to ask questions. Make sure that you understand what the procedures are and what to expect. Pets commonly have a cough after anesthesia, for example, because the tube used to deliver the gas may cause some irritation. If the cough does not clear in a couple days, call your veterinarian.

No matter what the age of the pet, the chances are very high that the anesthetic presents no problem if both you and your veterinarian work to minimize the risk. And the payoffs, especially those involving dental care, can be significant. Ask as many questions as you can and make sure you are comfortable with the answers. The final call on any procedures is yours, and you need to be fully informed to make it properly.

PETS ON THE WEB

You need only to visit the organizations that try to shelter them to realize that exotic pets are a bad choice for the overwhelming number of people who take them on. Adorable as babies, many exotic pets become too much to handle as adults. They are expensive to keep properly and require lots of time to care for.

For those reasons and more, I was impressed with "Heather's Wide World of Animals" (http://members.primary.net/(tilde)heather/contents.html), a Web site dedicated to pet primates. The site's owner keeps nonhuman primates and frankly adores them (along with a lot of other animals), but is careful to be honest about the difficulties in keeping monkeys and related pets happy. The problems with keeping them clean should give any prospective monkey-keeper pause, not to mention the challenges of sexual maturity. This is a good, honest site that should be required reading for anyone thinking of one of these exotics.

PET TIP

Just as we enjoy something cold on a hot day, so do our pets. You can give your pets ice cubes, which some animals find as much fun to play with as to eat. Another option is to make "petsicles" by pouring clear meat broth into ice-cube trays and freezing. (Don't give these to your pets on your white carpet, though.) What about ice cream or other people treats? Skip 'em. In pets as in people, they contribute to weight problems.

Healthy cool treats are wonderful, but don't forget basic hot weather precautions -- keep your pets cool. Exercise dogs in the early morning or after dark, when it's cooler, and be sure all pets have adequate protection from the heat and plenty of water. And speaking of water, even your fish can be put at risk if you don't deal with temperature fluctuations. Jonathan Lowrie, the America Online Pet Care Forum's fish expert, suggests one strategy is to direct a fan over the water surface.

Better for all pets is to keep them in air-conditioned surroundings, but if that's not possible, make sure they're kept protected from the deadly dangers of summer heat.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: How do you stop rabbits from chewing things? -- D.D., via the Internet.

A: You can't, nor should you try. Chewing is normal and necessary behavior for rabbits.

The best strategy is to offer your rabbits chew toys, while at the same time discouraging them from the items you don't want chewed. A proper diet with plenty of fresh hay will help keep your pets happily chewing what's good for them, and you can also offer chew toys available in most pet-supply stores. While you're there, get some Bitter Apple to discourage chewing of items you want left alone.

Incisors in rabbits grow throughout their lives and should be checked for problems regularly by your veterinarian. Some incisors get out of control and need to be trimmed every few weeks.

Q: I wonder if you could suggest a toy or object that my 1-year-old Labrador, Harry, could carry around with him. As you know, (Labs) are great retrievers, and he is a thief! I thought if I could find something safe for him to carry around, it would save my glasses, lighter, scarves and dishcloths from being stolen. Any help would be appreciated. -- B.L, via the Internet

A: Retrievers were bred to carry, and some of them take their jobs quite seriously. One of my retrievers, Benjamin, always greets me with a toy in his mouth. A love offering, I call it.

When you're dealing with behavior as natural as this, the best thing to do is go with the flow. First, the fun part: Shop therapy. Get a couple of plush toys to start with -- some stores will even welcome your dog so he can choose his own. A popular toy with good "mouth feel" is the Vermont Chew Man or its clones, a toy in the shape of a gingerbread man and covered with washable polyester "sheepskin," but there are plenty of others in all shapes and sizes, with or without squeakers or other noisemakers.

Get a toy box for your growing collection -- I use a milk crate -- so the toys are always in reach, and let Harry know it's OK to take them out of there.

Practice retrieving games with Harry to interest him in his new toys, and encourage him to bring them to you by asking him to "go find" and then leading him to the toy box. You can make this even more complicated by hiding the toys, or be asking for them by name, such as "football" or "baby." (My friends have a golden retriever who dotes on a Chew Man-type toy they call "Bob Dole," because it's missing part of an arm.)

Teach him "leave it" to protect your things. With him sitting in front of you, offer him a cookie and when he reaches for it, say "leave it" and bop him firmly under his chin. Then offer the cookie again and repeat the "leave it" command. If he turns his head away, praise. If not, another bop. Few dogs need this repeated more than twice.

If you see him eyeing something, tell him to "leave it" and then ask him to get one of his toys instead. If you find him with something he shouldn't have, take it without comment and send him for his toy. If you're consistent, he'll make the connection soon enough, and will start carrying his toys around instead of yours.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600