Can a dozen years have possibly passed since the day when I first held Andy, an hours-old pup with beautiful markings and the beginnings, even then, of an attitude?

I remember him now as the prankster, a strong, handsome youngster who stalked the rainbirds in our yard and chewed holes in hampers to gain access to dirty socks and underwear. Toni and Lance, the dogs he drove crazy with his puppy pestering, have been gone for years. And now, Andy himself has little patience for the bounciness of the two young retrievers. He'd rather be left alone.

I console myself with the knowledge that he is in good health and make sure he gets the little extras his status demands -- extra car rides, special one-on-one couch time and games played with the retrievers put away, so Andy will win and not get jostled. He is still handsome: His eyes may be a little milky, but his coat is as lush and shiny as ever.

Those eyes scan my face more frequently than ever now, for Andy is hard-of-hearing and appears to be teaching himself to lip-read. I tested him the other day, mouthing the word "cookies." He ran to the place where they are kept. Clearly, his mind is as sharp as ever. I found myself saddened when he stopped greeting me at the door -- he doesn't hear me pull up these days -- but I've gotten used to it. I find him where he's sleeping and wake him, gently. He seems annoyed at being surprised, but his face soon changes to joy at seeing me. He smiles, and I smile back. I rumple his silken ears, and he yawns.

I am careful to see that he gets the care he needs: good veterinary care, good nutrition and light exercise. He sees his veterinarian regularly for a thorough exam, blood and urine tests, and dental cleaning.

The trick, I know, is to prevent the problems you can and catch early the ones you can't. He has had a lump removed here and there, but that's about it. I try to keep him lean and exercised to help his arthritis, and that, along with some vitamins and other medications, keeps him fairly limber.

I sometimes find myself preparing for the day he will leave me, imagining what my life would be like without his thoughtful presence. Other times, I refuse to consider the possibility he will not be with me forever. I don't care if I know better. I don't want to lose him, ever.

It leads you to look for answers where none exist�.

My co-author and friend, Dr. Paul Pion, is as good a veterinarian as you could possibly find, a cardiologist by specialty. I talk to him when I want information about high-tech and cutting-edge veterinary medicine, but he is just as capable of sharing good stuff on a more basic level. He would tell you that warm fuzzies are not his strong suit, but I, for one, would disagree.

"Paul," I said to him the other day, "you're so good, tell me how to keep Andy from getting old."

"Kisses," he said. "Lots of kisses."

If he's right, my little sheepdog will be with me for a long time yet. I doubt, though, it could ever be long enough to get used to the idea of being without him.

PETS ON THE WEB

Holy moly, you've hit the canine mother lode when you point your browser to the rec.pet.dogs FAQ Homepage (www.k9web.com/dog-faqs). Internet pioneer Cindy Tittle Moore has spent the last six years gathering and maintaining a top-notch collection of materials, including articles on breeds, activities, behavior and training, allergies and pup gear.

The site also includes the definitive list of canine-related list-serves, e-mail "clubs" devoted to a specific breed or topic. Moore's site is a serious labor of love and a true service to dogs and those who love them. Completely noncommercial, well-organized and easy to search, this site is simply the best out there. If you can't find the information you're looking for here, you may not be able to find it at all.

PET TIP

Any pirate will tell you the proper place for a parrot is on the shoulder, but that view is challenged by behaviorists. The problem, they say, is that such a lofty perch gives parrots both the wrong idea about their status and the ability to inflict real damage should they decide to bite.

In the parrot's point of view, being higher equals being better, and a bird with such a superior attitude is more likely to try to stay on top -- both figuratively and literally -- by biting. Some biting problems can be solved simply by lowering the perch to give family members a height advantage and by never letting the bird higher than midchest when out of the cage. And that means no shoulder perching. Behaviorists point out the shoulder is an extremely risky place to park a parrot because a bite here could lay open a cheek or damage an eye.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We live where it stays hot most of the year. When we bag up the litter lumps to put in the trash, it smells up the garage and the cans. We have two cats and change the box daily.

We are thinking about spreading the used litter in the vacant lot next to our house. There are no houses closer to us than about a block away. I don't want to do it if it isn't safe, but I would like to give our garbage man a break. -- D.V., Miami

A: Spreading soiled litter on the lot next door isn't a good idea, from either a health or smell perspective. The feces of cats may contain diseases and parasites that can be transmitted to humans and other pets who come in contact with it. You don't have to get up close to be bothered, either: If you've ever walked past a flower bed favored by the neighborhood cats, you'll know it by the stench. I'm afraid your lot will be just as pungent in short order if you go through with your plan.

You didn't mention what kind of litter you're using. If you're changing out a box of nonclumping litter every day, you can really cut down the bulk by switching to the clumping variety -- a few soiled lumps is all you'll be dealing with then. Invest in some Ziploc bags to put the cat waste in. Sealed up, they should make your garbage a lot more pleasant to deal with.

Q: I have recently gotten a puppy, and I am having problems with the way she deals with the cat. She loves to chase the cat and often will jump on the cat and sometimes pin her to the ground.

The cat doesn't seem to mind all that much and is usually able to get away all by herself. Sometimes, however, no matter how much I scold the puppy for attacking the cat, she (the puppy) will not stop. They seem to be friends at times (i.e., often they will exchange kisses), but this aggressive behavior worries me.

Does the dog want to harm the cat or just play with her? I really want them to get along, but I don't know what to do. -- T.P., via the Internet

A: I wouldn't call your puppy "aggressive." Seems to me the behavior is more playful than predatory. However, you have to understand that dogs have a natural instinct to chase anything that runs. Your cat, no matter how good-natured, shouldn't have to put up with being the object of a chase. She could get hurt.

I'd make two recommendations. First, I'd attach a leash to the puppy's collar so you can catch her when she's chasing. Instead of punishing her, call her to you, ask for a positive behavior like "sit" and praise her for doing it right. Second, I'd set up a room where your cat can get away from the puppy. Put a baby gate across the door of a bedroom. Your cat will be able to clear it easily, but your puppy won't be able to follow.

Your two pets seem to be on the road to being pals. I'd get your puppy into a class soon, though, so you can learn how to raise her into a dog who will get along with everyone.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

As common as anesthesia is in veterinary medicine, many misconceptions exist about its use, especially where older animals are concerned.

Yes, it is true that no anesthetic procedure is without risk. In the hands of a good veterinarian and his staff, however, anesthesia has become a routine and very safe procedure -- with risks so low that, with few exceptions, you should not be dissuaded from pursuing necessary preventive or other surgical procedures for your pet.

The risks can be greatly minimized by a history, physical examination and a few basic tests beforehand, including a laboratory evaluation of blood and urine, and possibly a chest X-ray. Although these tests admittedly add to the cost of a procedure, they enable your vet to fully understand the health status of your pet before anesthetizing him. During the procedure, placement of an IV catheter and administration of fluids can further add to the safety of the procedure.

The benefits of these tests and precautionary measures may be hard for many to recognize. But the tests provide a baseline against which to compare future results, and most important, in the rare situation where a problem develops, you'll be glad you had the forethought to insist upon having them performed.

No discussion of anesthetic danger can be complete without a few words on your responsibilities where anesthesia is concerned:

-- Follow your veterinarian's instructions on preparing your pet for surgery. If no food is specified, make sure that you deliver your pet with an empty stomach. Following this one piece of advice is one of the easiest and most basic ways to reduce risk. During anesthesia, the contents of a full stomach can be regurgitated with the unfortunate potential complication of being inhaled into the lungs. In general, you should completely withhold food the night before, but continue to allow free access to water until the morning of the procedure.

-- Be prepared to provide special home care for your pet after surgery. Releasing animals before sedation wears off fully may be common practice for some veterinarians. Such animals must be kept safe from hot or cold environments because their reflexes are reduced. If you do not feel comfortable caring for a sedated pet, arrange for your veterinarian to extend the care. If your veterinarian does not run a 24-hour hospital, be sure to have the number of your local emergency clinic handy in case there are any complications following your pet's anesthesia.

-- Don't hesitate to ask questions. Make sure that you understand what the procedures are and what to expect. Pets commonly have a cough after anesthesia, for example, because the tube used to deliver the gas may cause some irritation. If the cough does not clear in a couple days, call your veterinarian.

No matter what the age of the pet, the chances are very high that the anesthetic presents no problem if both you and your veterinarian work to minimize the risk. And the payoffs, especially those involving dental care, can be significant. Ask as many questions as you can and make sure you are comfortable with the answers. The final call on any procedures is yours, and you need to be fully informed to make it properly.

PETS ON THE WEB

You need only to visit the organizations that try to shelter them to realize that exotic pets are a bad choice for the overwhelming number of people who take them on. Adorable as babies, many exotic pets become too much to handle as adults. They are expensive to keep properly and require lots of time to care for.

For those reasons and more, I was impressed with "Heather's Wide World of Animals" (http://members.primary.net/(tilde)heather/contents.html), a Web site dedicated to pet primates. The site's owner keeps nonhuman primates and frankly adores them (along with a lot of other animals), but is careful to be honest about the difficulties in keeping monkeys and related pets happy. The problems with keeping them clean should give any prospective monkey-keeper pause, not to mention the challenges of sexual maturity. This is a good, honest site that should be required reading for anyone thinking of one of these exotics.

PET TIP

Just as we enjoy something cold on a hot day, so do our pets. You can give your pets ice cubes, which some animals find as much fun to play with as to eat. Another option is to make "petsicles" by pouring clear meat broth into ice-cube trays and freezing. (Don't give these to your pets on your white carpet, though.) What about ice cream or other people treats? Skip 'em. In pets as in people, they contribute to weight problems.

Healthy cool treats are wonderful, but don't forget basic hot weather precautions -- keep your pets cool. Exercise dogs in the early morning or after dark, when it's cooler, and be sure all pets have adequate protection from the heat and plenty of water. And speaking of water, even your fish can be put at risk if you don't deal with temperature fluctuations. Jonathan Lowrie, the America Online Pet Care Forum's fish expert, suggests one strategy is to direct a fan over the water surface.

Better for all pets is to keep them in air-conditioned surroundings, but if that's not possible, make sure they're kept protected from the deadly dangers of summer heat.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: How do you stop rabbits from chewing things? -- D.D., via the Internet.

A: You can't, nor should you try. Chewing is normal and necessary behavior for rabbits.

The best strategy is to offer your rabbits chew toys, while at the same time discouraging them from the items you don't want chewed. A proper diet with plenty of fresh hay will help keep your pets happily chewing what's good for them, and you can also offer chew toys available in most pet-supply stores. While you're there, get some Bitter Apple to discourage chewing of items you want left alone.

Incisors in rabbits grow throughout their lives and should be checked for problems regularly by your veterinarian. Some incisors get out of control and need to be trimmed every few weeks.

Q: I wonder if you could suggest a toy or object that my 1-year-old Labrador, Harry, could carry around with him. As you know, (Labs) are great retrievers, and he is a thief! I thought if I could find something safe for him to carry around, it would save my glasses, lighter, scarves and dishcloths from being stolen. Any help would be appreciated. -- B.L, via the Internet

A: Retrievers were bred to carry, and some of them take their jobs quite seriously. One of my retrievers, Benjamin, always greets me with a toy in his mouth. A love offering, I call it.

When you're dealing with behavior as natural as this, the best thing to do is go with the flow. First, the fun part: Shop therapy. Get a couple of plush toys to start with -- some stores will even welcome your dog so he can choose his own. A popular toy with good "mouth feel" is the Vermont Chew Man or its clones, a toy in the shape of a gingerbread man and covered with washable polyester "sheepskin," but there are plenty of others in all shapes and sizes, with or without squeakers or other noisemakers.

Get a toy box for your growing collection -- I use a milk crate -- so the toys are always in reach, and let Harry know it's OK to take them out of there.

Practice retrieving games with Harry to interest him in his new toys, and encourage him to bring them to you by asking him to "go find" and then leading him to the toy box. You can make this even more complicated by hiding the toys, or be asking for them by name, such as "football" or "baby." (My friends have a golden retriever who dotes on a Chew Man-type toy they call "Bob Dole," because it's missing part of an arm.)

Teach him "leave it" to protect your things. With him sitting in front of you, offer him a cookie and when he reaches for it, say "leave it" and bop him firmly under his chin. Then offer the cookie again and repeat the "leave it" command. If he turns his head away, praise. If not, another bop. Few dogs need this repeated more than twice.

If you see him eyeing something, tell him to "leave it" and then ask him to get one of his toys instead. If you find him with something he shouldn't have, take it without comment and send him for his toy. If you're consistent, he'll make the connection soon enough, and will start carrying his toys around instead of yours.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

As adorable as puppies can be, anyone who's raising one will also tell you that they can drive you crazy. To get through those trying months and come out with the dog you want, always remember two things in dealing with puppies: Be patient and be positive.

What about those times when he isn't so perfect? A verbal correction, properly timed and correctly delivered, is best. Done properly, this type of correction may be all you need in most puppy-raising situations. Here are few more ways to send a clear message of disapproval:

-- The ol' switcheroo. Especially useful for the young puppy, this technique stops a behavior you don't want and provides the puppy with one that's acceptable. For example, if your young puppy's chewing on your nice leather shoes, make a noise to startle and distract him -- slap the counter or clap your hands -- and then give him something you do want him to chew on, a toy. When he takes it, praise him.

With older puppies, you can stop a bad behavior by asking for a better one. Tell the puppy who's jumping up "no" and then "sit" -- and praise him for doing so. Tell him once, and if he does not (to be fair, be sure he understands what you want), gently push him into a sit, and then praise.

-- The big squirt. Get an inexpensive plastic squirt bottle and fill it with water and something distasteful -- lemon juice or vinegar, a tablespoon or so to a 12-ounce bottle. Tell your puppy "no" and then squirt. Try to hold the bottle close to your side so the stream seems to be coming from nowhere.

-- The time-out. Puppies thrive on your attention, even if it's negative. The time-out removes this reward and gives him a few minutes to think things over: "Oh, I can't stay with them if I do that!" he'll realize. This technique is especially good for a puppy who doesn't want to keep his mouth to himself, a bad habit for any dog to get into where people are concerned. When the puppy starts nipping, tell him "no," and them clam up, pick him up and put him in his crate for five minutes. Ignore the cries and whimpers. After a few minutes of quiet, let him out without much fanfare and let him hang out with you gently for a while.

If your puppy has been running around for a long time and just seems bratty, he may be tired. If that's the case, put him down for a nap in his crate, along with a chew toy. Again, ignore his fussing. Chances are he'll be asleep in a few minutes.

-- The shake-up. We're talking serious infractions here, such as a growl, show of teeth or, worse, a genuine bite (as opposed to a good-natured puppy nip or nibble). This correction mimics the scruff-shake older dogs used when disciplining recalcitrant youngsters. Take your pup by loose skin at the neck, lift his front paws off the ground, make eye contact and bark your sternest "no" at him. Then drop him and ignore him for a while (or put him in his crate) to give him time to think about his crime.

If you find you're constantly correcting your puppy, you may be giving him mixed signals. Get the help of a trainer before little problems become big ones.

PETS ON THE WEB

The recent great leaps forward in flea control -- and in advertising expenditures by flea-product manufacturers -- have prompted a lot of confusion on the part of pet lovers. Is the war on fleas really over? Are veterinarian-prescribed products the best, or will new over-the-counter remedies work as well?

Dr. James O. Noxon, a professor and staff dermatologist at the Iowa State University College of Veterinary Medicine, has done his best to provide the answers. His Fleas and Flea Control Web site (www.vetmed.iastate.edu/units/vth/noxon/flea.html) is jam-packed with information on the pests and what works against them.

The site covers the flea life cycle, pros and cons of every known control strategy and ingredient, and even tips on how to give your cat a bath. This is as good a collection of flea information as I've ever seen, with no commercial influences, and it shouldn't be missed.

PET TIP

One problem with rabbits is that left to their own devices they'll breed like ... um ... rabbits, which is why it's a good idea to have them spayed or neutered. Unwanted offspring isn't the only reason, though. Just as with dogs and cats, neutering and spaying eliminates many health and behavior problems.

Female rabbits, for example, are at a high risk for uterine cancer, a leading killer of these pets over the age of 2. Spaying also removes the potential for common and potentially lethal reproductive-system infections. Besides extending your pet's life span, altering eliminates sex-related behavior problems. Sexually mature rabbits can be territorial or even aggressive, and may spray urine. Put simply: Spayed and neutered rabbits make better pets.

Despite all the benefits, however, anesthesia is a little trickier with rabbits than with dogs and cats. Be sure you're dealing with a veterinarian who is experienced with rabbits, and ask about anesthesia, listening for the magic word: Isoflurane, which is preferred for use with rabbits. The final safety precaution is yours: Follow your veterinarian's pre- and postoperative directions precisely.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: A month ago my two cats ran away. One was 2 years old (she was spayed), and the other was about 6 months old (she was not fixed). Both have been with us since they were 6 weeks old.

Why would two well-fed, cared-for cats just run off? Do you think they might have been stolen, even though we live back in the woods? Two other cats have disappeared in our area, too. Please help me. -- M.C., via the Internet

A: The world is full of dangers for outside cats, few of whom ever make it to old age. Poisons, predators, cars and disease claim most long before their time. Cats are also a frequent target of human abusers -- witness the cat-killing revelations about the man who allegedly killed two officers in our nation's Capitol. Hard to think about, these dangers, but absolutely real.

There's no way of telling what happened to your cats, and no way of keeping it from happening again should you adopt another pet. Unless you decide to make your cats indoor pets, you're putting them at risk.

It's a difficult decision, and a controversial one for those who think cats need to be "free" to enjoy their lives. Indoor cats can live just as happily with owners who are determined to give them the companionship and stimulation they need.

I am sorry for your loss. It's never easy to lose a pet, no matter what the circumstances. And not knowing what happened makes it even harder.

Please consider an indoor life for any future cats. Even a cat who has tasted the outdoors can be converted if you're resolute. The best way to convert is "cold turkey": Pick a day and then stick to your decision. If you give in after a couple of days of insistent meows, all you will have accomplished is teaching your cat that if he cries more loudly he'll get his way. Use "interactive" toys such as kitty fishing poles to give your pet extra attention and work off excess energy, and offer your pet fresh air and sunshine through the use of screened-in porches or other safe enclosures.

Q: My iguana doesn't seem to be having a lot of fun. What should I do about it? -- G.I, via the Internet

A: Assuming your pet isn't ill, is eating properly and has an enclosure with enough space and warmth, you can try some environmental enrichment, which is a good idea for any pet who spends a great deal of time in a cage or tank.

Branches are a natural, giving your pet a place to climb and to bask. It's fine to collect branches in the wild, but you should treat them before putting them in your pet's area. Soak them in a mild bleach and water solution, then plain water for several hours, followed by a thorough rinsing and drying in the sun. Place them in such a way to provide enough support for your pet, and you'll likely see a happier iguana.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600