As common as anesthesia is in veterinary medicine, many misconceptions exist about its use, especially where older animals are concerned.

Yes, it is true that no anesthetic procedure is without risk. In the hands of a good veterinarian and his staff, however, anesthesia has become a routine and very safe procedure -- with risks so low that, with few exceptions, you should not be dissuaded from pursuing necessary preventive or other surgical procedures for your pet.

The risks can be greatly minimized by a history, physical examination and a few basic tests beforehand, including a laboratory evaluation of blood and urine, and possibly a chest X-ray. Although these tests admittedly add to the cost of a procedure, they enable your vet to fully understand the health status of your pet before anesthetizing him. During the procedure, placement of an IV catheter and administration of fluids can further add to the safety of the procedure.

The benefits of these tests and precautionary measures may be hard for many to recognize. But the tests provide a baseline against which to compare future results, and most important, in the rare situation where a problem develops, you'll be glad you had the forethought to insist upon having them performed.

No discussion of anesthetic danger can be complete without a few words on your responsibilities where anesthesia is concerned:

-- Follow your veterinarian's instructions on preparing your pet for surgery. If no food is specified, make sure that you deliver your pet with an empty stomach. Following this one piece of advice is one of the easiest and most basic ways to reduce risk. During anesthesia, the contents of a full stomach can be regurgitated with the unfortunate potential complication of being inhaled into the lungs. In general, you should completely withhold food the night before, but continue to allow free access to water until the morning of the procedure.

-- Be prepared to provide special home care for your pet after surgery. Releasing animals before sedation wears off fully may be common practice for some veterinarians. Such animals must be kept safe from hot or cold environments because their reflexes are reduced. If you do not feel comfortable caring for a sedated pet, arrange for your veterinarian to extend the care. If your veterinarian does not run a 24-hour hospital, be sure to have the number of your local emergency clinic handy in case there are any complications following your pet's anesthesia.

-- Don't hesitate to ask questions. Make sure that you understand what the procedures are and what to expect. Pets commonly have a cough after anesthesia, for example, because the tube used to deliver the gas may cause some irritation. If the cough does not clear in a couple days, call your veterinarian.

No matter what the age of the pet, the chances are very high that the anesthetic presents no problem if both you and your veterinarian work to minimize the risk. And the payoffs, especially those involving dental care, can be significant. Ask as many questions as you can and make sure you are comfortable with the answers. The final call on any procedures is yours, and you need to be fully informed to make it properly.

PETS ON THE WEB

You need only to visit the organizations that try to shelter them to realize that exotic pets are a bad choice for the overwhelming number of people who take them on. Adorable as babies, many exotic pets become too much to handle as adults. They are expensive to keep properly and require lots of time to care for.

For those reasons and more, I was impressed with "Heather's Wide World of Animals" (http://members.primary.net/(tilde)heather/contents.html), a Web site dedicated to pet primates. The site's owner keeps nonhuman primates and frankly adores them (along with a lot of other animals), but is careful to be honest about the difficulties in keeping monkeys and related pets happy. The problems with keeping them clean should give any prospective monkey-keeper pause, not to mention the challenges of sexual maturity. This is a good, honest site that should be required reading for anyone thinking of one of these exotics.

PET TIP

Just as we enjoy something cold on a hot day, so do our pets. You can give your pets ice cubes, which some animals find as much fun to play with as to eat. Another option is to make "petsicles" by pouring clear meat broth into ice-cube trays and freezing. (Don't give these to your pets on your white carpet, though.) What about ice cream or other people treats? Skip 'em. In pets as in people, they contribute to weight problems.

Healthy cool treats are wonderful, but don't forget basic hot weather precautions -- keep your pets cool. Exercise dogs in the early morning or after dark, when it's cooler, and be sure all pets have adequate protection from the heat and plenty of water. And speaking of water, even your fish can be put at risk if you don't deal with temperature fluctuations. Jonathan Lowrie, the America Online Pet Care Forum's fish expert, suggests one strategy is to direct a fan over the water surface.

Better for all pets is to keep them in air-conditioned surroundings, but if that's not possible, make sure they're kept protected from the deadly dangers of summer heat.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: How do you stop rabbits from chewing things? -- D.D., via the Internet.

A: You can't, nor should you try. Chewing is normal and necessary behavior for rabbits.

The best strategy is to offer your rabbits chew toys, while at the same time discouraging them from the items you don't want chewed. A proper diet with plenty of fresh hay will help keep your pets happily chewing what's good for them, and you can also offer chew toys available in most pet-supply stores. While you're there, get some Bitter Apple to discourage chewing of items you want left alone.

Incisors in rabbits grow throughout their lives and should be checked for problems regularly by your veterinarian. Some incisors get out of control and need to be trimmed every few weeks.

Q: I wonder if you could suggest a toy or object that my 1-year-old Labrador, Harry, could carry around with him. As you know, (Labs) are great retrievers, and he is a thief! I thought if I could find something safe for him to carry around, it would save my glasses, lighter, scarves and dishcloths from being stolen. Any help would be appreciated. -- B.L, via the Internet

A: Retrievers were bred to carry, and some of them take their jobs quite seriously. One of my retrievers, Benjamin, always greets me with a toy in his mouth. A love offering, I call it.

When you're dealing with behavior as natural as this, the best thing to do is go with the flow. First, the fun part: Shop therapy. Get a couple of plush toys to start with -- some stores will even welcome your dog so he can choose his own. A popular toy with good "mouth feel" is the Vermont Chew Man or its clones, a toy in the shape of a gingerbread man and covered with washable polyester "sheepskin," but there are plenty of others in all shapes and sizes, with or without squeakers or other noisemakers.

Get a toy box for your growing collection -- I use a milk crate -- so the toys are always in reach, and let Harry know it's OK to take them out of there.

Practice retrieving games with Harry to interest him in his new toys, and encourage him to bring them to you by asking him to "go find" and then leading him to the toy box. You can make this even more complicated by hiding the toys, or be asking for them by name, such as "football" or "baby." (My friends have a golden retriever who dotes on a Chew Man-type toy they call "Bob Dole," because it's missing part of an arm.)

Teach him "leave it" to protect your things. With him sitting in front of you, offer him a cookie and when he reaches for it, say "leave it" and bop him firmly under his chin. Then offer the cookie again and repeat the "leave it" command. If he turns his head away, praise. If not, another bop. Few dogs need this repeated more than twice.

If you see him eyeing something, tell him to "leave it" and then ask him to get one of his toys instead. If you find him with something he shouldn't have, take it without comment and send him for his toy. If you're consistent, he'll make the connection soon enough, and will start carrying his toys around instead of yours.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

As adorable as puppies can be, anyone who's raising one will also tell you that they can drive you crazy. To get through those trying months and come out with the dog you want, always remember two things in dealing with puppies: Be patient and be positive.

What about those times when he isn't so perfect? A verbal correction, properly timed and correctly delivered, is best. Done properly, this type of correction may be all you need in most puppy-raising situations. Here are few more ways to send a clear message of disapproval:

-- The ol' switcheroo. Especially useful for the young puppy, this technique stops a behavior you don't want and provides the puppy with one that's acceptable. For example, if your young puppy's chewing on your nice leather shoes, make a noise to startle and distract him -- slap the counter or clap your hands -- and then give him something you do want him to chew on, a toy. When he takes it, praise him.

With older puppies, you can stop a bad behavior by asking for a better one. Tell the puppy who's jumping up "no" and then "sit" -- and praise him for doing so. Tell him once, and if he does not (to be fair, be sure he understands what you want), gently push him into a sit, and then praise.

-- The big squirt. Get an inexpensive plastic squirt bottle and fill it with water and something distasteful -- lemon juice or vinegar, a tablespoon or so to a 12-ounce bottle. Tell your puppy "no" and then squirt. Try to hold the bottle close to your side so the stream seems to be coming from nowhere.

-- The time-out. Puppies thrive on your attention, even if it's negative. The time-out removes this reward and gives him a few minutes to think things over: "Oh, I can't stay with them if I do that!" he'll realize. This technique is especially good for a puppy who doesn't want to keep his mouth to himself, a bad habit for any dog to get into where people are concerned. When the puppy starts nipping, tell him "no," and them clam up, pick him up and put him in his crate for five minutes. Ignore the cries and whimpers. After a few minutes of quiet, let him out without much fanfare and let him hang out with you gently for a while.

If your puppy has been running around for a long time and just seems bratty, he may be tired. If that's the case, put him down for a nap in his crate, along with a chew toy. Again, ignore his fussing. Chances are he'll be asleep in a few minutes.

-- The shake-up. We're talking serious infractions here, such as a growl, show of teeth or, worse, a genuine bite (as opposed to a good-natured puppy nip or nibble). This correction mimics the scruff-shake older dogs used when disciplining recalcitrant youngsters. Take your pup by loose skin at the neck, lift his front paws off the ground, make eye contact and bark your sternest "no" at him. Then drop him and ignore him for a while (or put him in his crate) to give him time to think about his crime.

If you find you're constantly correcting your puppy, you may be giving him mixed signals. Get the help of a trainer before little problems become big ones.

PETS ON THE WEB

The recent great leaps forward in flea control -- and in advertising expenditures by flea-product manufacturers -- have prompted a lot of confusion on the part of pet lovers. Is the war on fleas really over? Are veterinarian-prescribed products the best, or will new over-the-counter remedies work as well?

Dr. James O. Noxon, a professor and staff dermatologist at the Iowa State University College of Veterinary Medicine, has done his best to provide the answers. His Fleas and Flea Control Web site (www.vetmed.iastate.edu/units/vth/noxon/flea.html) is jam-packed with information on the pests and what works against them.

The site covers the flea life cycle, pros and cons of every known control strategy and ingredient, and even tips on how to give your cat a bath. This is as good a collection of flea information as I've ever seen, with no commercial influences, and it shouldn't be missed.

PET TIP

One problem with rabbits is that left to their own devices they'll breed like ... um ... rabbits, which is why it's a good idea to have them spayed or neutered. Unwanted offspring isn't the only reason, though. Just as with dogs and cats, neutering and spaying eliminates many health and behavior problems.

Female rabbits, for example, are at a high risk for uterine cancer, a leading killer of these pets over the age of 2. Spaying also removes the potential for common and potentially lethal reproductive-system infections. Besides extending your pet's life span, altering eliminates sex-related behavior problems. Sexually mature rabbits can be territorial or even aggressive, and may spray urine. Put simply: Spayed and neutered rabbits make better pets.

Despite all the benefits, however, anesthesia is a little trickier with rabbits than with dogs and cats. Be sure you're dealing with a veterinarian who is experienced with rabbits, and ask about anesthesia, listening for the magic word: Isoflurane, which is preferred for use with rabbits. The final safety precaution is yours: Follow your veterinarian's pre- and postoperative directions precisely.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: A month ago my two cats ran away. One was 2 years old (she was spayed), and the other was about 6 months old (she was not fixed). Both have been with us since they were 6 weeks old.

Why would two well-fed, cared-for cats just run off? Do you think they might have been stolen, even though we live back in the woods? Two other cats have disappeared in our area, too. Please help me. -- M.C., via the Internet

A: The world is full of dangers for outside cats, few of whom ever make it to old age. Poisons, predators, cars and disease claim most long before their time. Cats are also a frequent target of human abusers -- witness the cat-killing revelations about the man who allegedly killed two officers in our nation's Capitol. Hard to think about, these dangers, but absolutely real.

There's no way of telling what happened to your cats, and no way of keeping it from happening again should you adopt another pet. Unless you decide to make your cats indoor pets, you're putting them at risk.

It's a difficult decision, and a controversial one for those who think cats need to be "free" to enjoy their lives. Indoor cats can live just as happily with owners who are determined to give them the companionship and stimulation they need.

I am sorry for your loss. It's never easy to lose a pet, no matter what the circumstances. And not knowing what happened makes it even harder.

Please consider an indoor life for any future cats. Even a cat who has tasted the outdoors can be converted if you're resolute. The best way to convert is "cold turkey": Pick a day and then stick to your decision. If you give in after a couple of days of insistent meows, all you will have accomplished is teaching your cat that if he cries more loudly he'll get his way. Use "interactive" toys such as kitty fishing poles to give your pet extra attention and work off excess energy, and offer your pet fresh air and sunshine through the use of screened-in porches or other safe enclosures.

Q: My iguana doesn't seem to be having a lot of fun. What should I do about it? -- G.I, via the Internet

A: Assuming your pet isn't ill, is eating properly and has an enclosure with enough space and warmth, you can try some environmental enrichment, which is a good idea for any pet who spends a great deal of time in a cage or tank.

Branches are a natural, giving your pet a place to climb and to bask. It's fine to collect branches in the wild, but you should treat them before putting them in your pet's area. Soak them in a mild bleach and water solution, then plain water for several hours, followed by a thorough rinsing and drying in the sun. Place them in such a way to provide enough support for your pet, and you'll likely see a happier iguana.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The mechanics of dog training aren't that hard to understand. But to get your dog to mind you consistently and happily, you're going to need dedication and, most of all, a positive attitude.

Dog training is not about eight Thursday-night group classes and the training is over, forever. You never stop training your dog. You teach, and then you practice, in ever more challenging circumstances. You correct the behavior you don't want. And you integrate your dog's lessons into everyday life so what has been learned is never, ever lost. Remember the French you learned in high school? How good are you at it now? If you don't use it, you lose it, and the same can be said of skills you teach your dog.

If you're thinking about training now, chances are you have a dog who's a little out of control -- a canine adolescent, more often than not. You've given up waiting for her to outgrow her bad behavior (they never do!) and figure it's finally time to train her. You're thinking you can't avoid training; it just has to be done, like cleaning leaves out of the gutters.

Stop!

Now, consider the following: If you have a bad attitude toward training, so will your dog. If you think training is a joyless chore, she'll hate it, every minute. If you walk around jerking on her collar and swearing, she'll wonder what she has done to deserve your anger, and she'll be too busy worrying about that to learn anything.

If you tell her she's stupid, she will be.

Expect success from her and be willing to work for it. Praise her not only for succeeding, but also for trying. Learning is hard for her and stressful. Think of your dog as a person who has just moved to your house from a country where the language and customs are different -- a special kind of foreign exchange student. She was born a dog, after all, and you're asking her to live as a member of a human family. You're asking her to learn the language and follow the rules.

The fact that this feat is ever accomplished at all is nothing less than a miracle. So celebrate it, with her. Consider dog training not as mechanical thing (if you do X, your dog does Y), but as something organic -- alive, interconnected and ever-changing. A well-mannered dog becomes that way from the inside out. "Sit" and "stay" are the least of it, really, and are only the visible manifestations of what that dog is on the inside: a confident, comfortable and secure member of a loving, human pack. A dog who is, quite simply, a joy to live with.

We all get cranky sometimes. If you've had a horrid day at work, a fight with your spouse, or the mechanic just told you that fixing your car will cost $2,700, you're probably better off skipping any efforts at teaching your dog something new. Instead, use your dog to help you ease out of your funk. Play fetch instead, or just hang out with her. Pet her while you watch TV. It's good for your blood pressure.

Tomorrow is another day to train, to continue to strengthen the bond between you.

PETS ON THE WEB

If you really want to understand your dog, study the wolf. From the greatest Dane to the tiniest of toy poodles, there beats the heart of a wolf. A good place to start your appreciation of this magnificent animal is at the home page of Wolf Haven International (www.teleport.com/(tilde)wnorton/wolf.shtml).

You'll know you're at the right place immediately -- your computer will start howling! Wolf Haven is a nonprofit organization in Tenino, Wash., dedicated to conserving the wolf: protecting it in its remaining habits, reintroducing it in its historic habitats, and providing sanctuary for captive-born wolves given up by people who didn't realize how unsuitable these animals are as pets. The site contains gorgeous pictures of the wolves in residence at the sanctuary, along with instructions on how to "adopt" one for a donation as small as $20 a year. Wolf sound files are available for downloading, too.

Because the organization's goals also include education, you'll find lots of information, from links to other sites and lists of suggested reading. This is a site to bookmark and visit again and again.

PET TIP

Everyone loves saving money, and I am no exception. While I do not scrimp on preventive veterinary care or on high-quality nutrition, I have been known to cut some corners on equipment. When I was fostering pets who needed new homes, I shopped garage sales and kept an eye on the newspaper classifieds for the things I needed to house my animal guests. I bought crates and kennel runs for a fraction of their retail value (one crate that retailed for $80, I picked up for $5). Cages for birds, reptiles and rodents, deluxe cat trees -- they're out there if you're patient enough to look. When you get them home, a thorough scrubbing followed by disinfecting with a mild bleach-and-water solution should be enough to put whatever bargain you find back in action in the service of animals.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I'm going camping, and I don't want my dog to get sunburn. What should I use? -- C.F., via the Internet

A: According to the Veterinary Information Network's (VIN) dermatology consultants, an unscented human sunscreen with no PABA on its ingredient list should fit the bill -- SPF 15 or higher, with SPF 30 preferred. Better still is to keep your pet out of the sun during peak times, from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Not all dogs need protection from sunburn. Many just need a little help on their noses (just like people) if they have light-colored flesh there. Shorthaired white dogs, such a white boxers, may need overall application of sunscreen, as do hairless breeds such as the Chinese crested. The VIN consultants suggest if you must take these dogs out in the worst part of the day, a T-shirt isn't a bad idea.

The problem isn't just for dogs, by the way. Some cats have problems with their ear tips, and pot-bellied pigs are also sensitive to sun exposure. Again, keeping them out of the sun is the best idea, but sunscreen will help otherwise.

Q: We have allergies in the family. What is the best small dog to buy? -- S.F, via the Internet.

Q: We've heard the Cornish and Devon Rex breeds of cat are OK for people with allergies. Is that true? -- A.S., via the Internet

A: I wish I could report otherwise, but the truth is there's no such thing as a hypoallergenic pet. Some people say they do better with breeds such as poodles and the kinky-haired Rexes, but don't count on it.

Still, if your allergies are minimal or your desire for a pet is high, you might be able to work it out. I have, living fairly well with both pets and asthma for all of my adult life.

Studies have shown that if a cat is rinsed weekly, or bathed, it is less likely to provoke an allergic reaction. This is how I am able to coexist with my dogs. They are kept clean so their levels of dander are kept down, and so is the amount of junk they carry in on their coats from their trips outside.

Others find they can live with a pet if they designate the bedroom an animal-free zone so they can sleep at night. But that is a tough one if you like to sleep with a purring cat on the bed. My approach is that when I'm not having problems, my dogs sleep in the bedroom. When things are a little dicey, they don't, and I keep the air cleaner running. (My bedroom is kept as clear as possible of dog hair and dander, and other allergy-provoking material, dust and the like.)

Above all, I'd work closely with an understanding allergist. And realize that what the doctor will say is absolutely correct: It's not advisable to add a pet to your family. Working with an allergist, though, will help keep other allergies under control, and give you access to the latest in treatments, such as a promising cat-allergy vaccine now in development.

Incidentally, the decision to get a pet is not one I would make on behalf of an allergic child. Much as I love animals, if I were faced with this decision, as my parents were, I probably would have made the same call: no furry pets.

The risk, I suppose, is that the child will grow up so terribly pet-deprived that he or she will end up a pet columnist, like ... well ... me!

Life is, of course, full of such horrors.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600