One of the miracles of the crazy place that is my home, California, is how in a couple hours you can go from a spot where the heat is so oppressive you can barely breathe to another where you get out of the car and reach for a sweatshirt. I live in the former, but the dogs and I recently escaped to the latter.

It's safe to say that there is no dog-friendly spot within 300 miles of my home I haven't heard about and likely visited. Dog lovers trade news of such spots the way food lovers talk about restaurants, in whispers shared only between friends, lest someone not deserving of the experience go and "ruin" it for all. People who don't pick up after their pets, don't bring their own towels for cleanup, aren't careful with carpets and furnishings -- these people are dangerous to those of us who love to take our pets along.

I myself am oh-so careful. One of my dogs once threw up on a bath mat at a favorite inn. I bought a new one before I left and know that we are still welcome there, in the cabins and on the blackberry-lined path that leads to a wide sandy beach.

I love being out with my dogs. Their joy is always infectious; their energy lifts my spirits. This trip was the first time the younger retriever, Heather, had experienced the ocean. She came from the Texas hill country just before Christmas and has had no trouble adapting to swimming in that most ubiquitous of California water features, the swimming pool. I don't have one, but fortunately enough dog-loving friends and relatives do to keep her and the other retriever, Benjamin, wet all summer long.

The Pacific gave her little pause, either. She threw herself into the surf with Ben in hot pursuit, swimming strongly out until their bobbing heads looked like so much driftwood in the chop. While Benjamin swims to retrieve, happily and without hesitation, Heather swims for the joy of it. She whines when we drive over water we will not visit, and has to be ordered back to firm ground when she is allowed to swim.

This trip, I indulged her as much as I could.

My oldest dog, Andy, a Shetland sheepdog, has no interest in swimming and takes refuge behind me when the retrievers come out of the water and shake off the spray. He is of a breed that believes water is to be consumed and otherwise avoided, and he takes his genetic imperative seriously.

The first time I threw a stick into the water for Benjamin, Andy turned to look at me with an expression that seemed to say, "That was stupid. Who do you think is going to get that now? Not me!" His look turned to one of amazement when the big dog ran past him and hurled himself into the lake.

Andy now accepts that the retrievers go into the water, but he doesn't pretend to understand their obsession with it.

But even Andy was happy for the change of location. He explored his new surroundings and rested outdoors, his nose pointed firmly into the ocean breeze. Even better, he wanted to play, which in a 12-year-old dog is something to be cherished.

And cherish it, I did. I know it is possible to vacation without pets, but I also know that for me it wouldn't be half as relaxing. I miss them, and I miss how I feel when I'm around them.

Thank heavens there are people like the owner of the place where we stayed who understand and who make trips like ours possible.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Basking Spot (www.baskingspot.com) is a well-organized and attractively designed site any reptile and amphibian fan should bookmark. Once you see it, you're going to be visiting it often. The site contains information about species and their proper care, listings of associations and events, and an extensive publications overview that encompasses everything from club newsletters to books and academic journals. The Internet resources area includes a comprehensive list of newsgroups and list-serves, and if you want to explore further, you'll find links well worth a click. A fantastic site.

PET TIP

Windows open to catch the slightest hint of a breeze, doors opening and closing with the whims of active children -- summer is a carefree season indeed. But all those comings and goings, open windows and doors make summer a prime time for bird escapes. Don't take a chance. Make sure your bird's feathers are properly trimmed to limit flight, and don't allow even a clipped bird the opportunity to take wing outdoors. They might manage enough loft to land out of your reach. If you don't know how to trim your pet, let an avian veterinary clinic or reputable bird shop handle the job. A bad job of it will cause more problems than it prevents.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I'm a little worried about the dust factor in clumping cat litter. It can't be good for cats, right? But the litter makes cleaning up after three cats so much easier. Your thoughts? -- J.B., via the Internet

A: Rumors about clumping cat litter have been floating around for some time and can be traced to an article in a now-defunct magazine in which a cat breeder argued that the stuff had caused an intestinal blockage that killed her kittens. Thanks to the reach of the Internet, her concerns are still worrying cat lovers. But there's little need to fear. To the contrary, some have argued that clumping cat litter is responsible for saving the lives of many cats.

According to "CatWatch," a monthly newsletter put out by the Cornell Feline Health Center, preference polls indicate clumping litter is a hit with cats. Cats who may avoid the litter box otherwise find clumping litters agreeable. Since a cat who won't use the box is a prime candidate for becoming homeless, it's easy to argue the benefits of clumping litter. The cleanup issue is no small consideration either, for clumping litters have made possible new box designs and tools that make keeping a cat far easier.

As for the health issue, no scientific study exists that confirms a danger with clumping litters. Even anecdotal evidence is virtually nonexistent: Discussions on the 5,000-plus member Veterinary Information Network reveal no problems. If clumping litter were the danger some say it is, veterinarians would know it and be talking about it. They're not.

If you want to err on the safe side, however, avoid clumping litter for kittens until they're out of the "taste everything" stage. But realize you'll be acting out of personal preference with no basis in scientific fact.

Litter dust does cause problems for asthmatic cats, but choosing low-dust brands and avoiding hooded litter boxes should make things easier. Talk to your veterinarian for more information if your pet has breathing problems.

Q: I was wondering how do you know what type of exercise a dog needs. Can you just take them for a nice walk, or do you need a large yard or space to run around in? -- W.D., via the Internet

A: The amount of exercise a dog needs depends on the age of the dog and the breeding, but in no cases is confinement for life in a yard -- no matter how large! -- in the best interests of a dog. Socialization is as important to a dog's mental health as it is to our own, so outings are always important.

As for exercise, the lack of it is one of the biggest contributors to the behavior problems that drive dog owners nuts: digging, chewing, barking and others. All that pent-up energy has to be spent somehow. We have all these dogs who come from working heritages -- hunting, sledding and herding dogs bred to be active for hours at a time -- and then we stick them in a back yard and wonder why they're hyper.

Young dogs of active large breeds and mixes need at least a half-hour of high-energy exercise three times a week to keep them fit and calm and to relieve them of the stresses of modern living. Jogging, playing fetch and swimming are all important to your pet's physical and mental well-being. If you're not up to that level of energy, consider a smaller or more sedentary breed. Toy breeds find the keeping up with humans on a walk to be aerobic, and breeds such as basset hounds are quite content to live a more couch-potato existence: lots of naps and occasional walks for socializing.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

If you want to thank someone for the pleasure of your indoor cat, thank the late Edward Lowe, the creator of Kitty Litter. In one of those fabled American success stories, Lowe was looking for new uses for clay some 50 years ago when he happened upon the one that would make him rich and cat lovers happy -- albeit not at the very moment they're attending to that litter.

Filling cat boxes is an industry worth more than $600 million today, with more variety than Lowe could have ever imagined when he hand-labeled that first 5-pound bag. But what about something to put the litter in? In recent years some of the most interesting innovations have come in the cat-box area. Here are most of your options:

-- Disposable pans. Small, cardboard litter boxes are popular with shelters, rescuers, pet stores and some breeders, but probably aren't too practical for long-term use for your pet cat. Still, you may consider keeping a few of these on hand in case a stray walks into your life, or for young kittens or cats who need nursing back to health.

-- Household items. A 9-by-13-inch metal baking dish, too worn for cooking, can be a good first litter box for a kitten, its low sides making it easy for babies to hop in and out of. Plastic dishpans, with their high sides, can be a good choice for cats who like to kick their litter everywhere; you can cut down one side if necessary for easier access.

-- Simple plastic pans. Millions of cats have done just fine with this design, and yours may be among them. Relatively inexpensive and widely available, these pans come in a variety of shapes, sizes and colors. Some have special rims to keep more filler in the box. Make sure that the one you choose is easy to scrub clean.

-- Covered pans. Manufacturers say covered pans keep down odors and prevent dogs and children from getting into the filler. Unfortunately, some owners take the approach that if they can't smell the litter box, it doesn't need attention, and the cat who feels otherwise finds someplace else to go. If you choose this kind of pan, don't forget that you must be as on top of its cleaning as you would with any other variety. Don't blame your cat for mistakes if you can't keep the litter box clean regularly. One caution: Cats with asthma should not use a covered litter pan. They need the increased ventilation that an open-air variety offers.

-- Self-cleaning pans. No one likes to clean the litter box, but some cats are so fussy that if you let this important chore wait, your cat may turn up her nose and go elsewhere. In recent years, inventors have come up with new pans that make cleaning a nearly hands-off affair, thanks to the easy-clean properties of clumping cat-box filler.

Some of these boxes have lift-and-sift inserts that collect used clumps as you remove them, while you roll the others over, thereby running litter through a collector that catches and holds the clumps.

The absolute high end of the easy-clean line would have to be the electric litter box, as anyone who watches late-night infomercials can attest. One veterinarian friend of mine gleefully snapped up the product at a trade show and was disappointed to report his cats found it too spooky to use. Other cats may feel differently, though, and yours may be among them.

His experience points out the most important thing to remember when choosing -- and filling -- a litter box. The only opinion that really counts is your cat's. When you hit the magic solution that makes you both happy, stick with it.

PETS ON THE WEB

Forget cat boxes, forget litter, forget cleaning, forget smell. Your cat can learn to use the toilet. While books and articles on teaching this useful trick have been around for years, the How to Toilet Train Your Cat Web site (www.rainfrog.com/mishacat/toilet.shtml) does as good a job as I've seen in explaining how it's done. The author goes over the steps, setbacks and challenges, all with lots of photos of the author's cat, Misha, doing more or less what comes naturally on the commode. Remember: Lid up, seat down.

PET TIP

Is your dog wearing one of those slip-chain training collars, commonly known as a choke collar, for everyday wear? If so, take it off right now and give your pet a hug of thanks that he's still with you. The moving ring of a choke collar can catch on many things, even the teeth of another dog in play. Once snagged, a dog reacts instinctively -- and completely wrong -- by pulling away. The noose only gets tighter and more deadly the more he pulls. Many dogs have died in such circumstances, and some owners have been bitten trying to free a frantic pet.

For safety, a buckled or snap-together collar (leather or nylon) should be your dog's everyday wear. The fit should be a tad looser than snug. You should be able to work one finger under the collar for a small dog, two for a large one. And don't forget to attach current ID tags and a license.

Restrict the use of the slip-chain collar to training or walking. Get in the habit of taking the slip-chain off when you unleash your dog and leaving it attached to your leash, so you'll always have it handy.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have a 2-year-old Chinook mix we got from the pound. She's a great dog at home. At the park or the vet, though, it's another story. At the park, she will bark like a maniac when other dogs pass by or come near.

We are training her at the park now, praising her and stuffing her with treats when she can sit/stay with a minimum of barking as dogs pass about 10 feet away. But there are still times when she'll lose it and start barking like a crazed animal. I am wondering if a muzzle might help her train by preventing her from barking and getting herself even more worked up. -- G.M, via the Internet

A: Instead of a muzzle, try a head halter. Canine halters work on the same principle that equine versions do: Control the head and the body will follow. The leash is attached to a ring under the jaw, and when pulled, puts pressure around the dog's muzzle and neck -- both important in canine body language. Properly fitted and used, head halters can shift the balance of power in your favor.

I would also suggest a couple of private sessions with a good trainer. An experienced trainer can spot what you're doing wrong, turn your dog around quickly, and show you how to handle your pet's daily challenges.

Q: My brother wants to let his iguana go when we get to Florida. Is that OK? Will the iguana be able to live? -- N.T., via the Internet

A: Aside from the cruel proposition of turning loose a domesticated animal to fend for itself, your brother's plan is a bad one for the sake of the environment. The release or escape of non-native plants and animals causes a great deal of problems in places where they can do well enough to displace native species. Keep your pet contained and well-cared-for, for its own good and for the good of the nondomesticated animals it may come in contact with in the wild.

Q: Do you have any recipes for dog treats?

A: Try these liver brownies. Or, rather, prepare them and give them to your pet!

LIVER BROWNIES

-- 1 pound of liver, pureed in blender or food processor;

-- 1 cup corn meal;

-- garlic powder to taste (your dog's, not yours);

-- a little water to get the consistency of chewy brownie batter.

Mix and spread in brownie pan. Bake about 25 minutes at 325-350 degrees. Stick a knife in center to see if they are done. Cool and cut. They can be frozen for later use.

Looking for more? Try Kim Campbell Thornton's book, "Dog Treats" (Doubleday, $7.95).

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

For most cats, one of the most stressful events of their lives is a distracting time for their owners as well: changing addresses. Combine traveling with suddenly being in unfamiliar surroundings, and you can easily understand why cats end up freaked out after a move.

While you'll never manage a stress-free move, for either you or your cat, you can make the best of the situation by keeping your cat secure before, during and after the move, and then allowing your pet to ease into his new surroundings.

The best way to move your cat is to confine him to a small area (I call it a "safe room") before and after the move. The ideal is a spare bedroom where your cat isn't going to be disturbed, outfitted with food and water, a litter box, a scratching post and toys.

Don't feel bad about confining your pet: He's more comfortable in a small space, and he isn't subjected to the stress of seeing people tromping out of the house with his belongings. Confining your cat also prevents him from slipping out, which is a danger at both the old and new home. Even if your cat turns up back at your old place, a reunion can be hard to arrange if you need to leave before you find him, especially if you've moved to another city.

Your cat should be confined in his safe room before packing begins, be moved to his new home in a carrier, and then be confined again in his new safe room until the moving is over, the furniture arranged and most of the dust settled.

When you get to your new home, put the carrier down in the safe room, open the door and let your cat decide when to come out.

After he's a little calmer, you can coax him out with some fresh food or treats, but don't rush him and don't drag him out -- you may be bitten or scratched. Leave the carrier, with its door removed, in the safe room. It is the most familiar place in your new home in your cat's mind and will likely be his chosen spot for a few days until this new house becomes his new home.

After a couple of days, open the door to the safe room and let your cat explore at will, on his terms, but just within the limits of the house. He still needs to be kept completely inside for a couple of weeks if he's not a completely indoor cat, to start him forming a bond with his new surroundings.

If you've been contemplating converting your cat to indoors-only, moving is a great time to do it, by the way. He'd carry on like crazy in your old home if locked in, but in new surroundings he'll accept the change better. Part of the reason cats don't like to convert is because they've marked the outside as part of their territory and have a natural desire to revisit and re-mark. A newly moved cat will come to accept the territory he has been offered, and if the outdoors isn't part of it, he won't miss it so much.

Above all, don't rush your cat. A slow transition with a period of confinement is also good for avoiding behavior problems that might pop up with the stress of moving. By limiting your cat's options to the litter box and scratching post in his safe room, he will quickly redevelop the good habits he had in your old home.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Dog Writers Association of America was founded in the days when the handful of writers who covered dogs were mostly men who did their work on manual typewriters. A lot has changed in 60-plus years, and the DWAA now has plenty of women among its hundreds of members, many of whom would abandon their spouses -- but probably not their dogs -- before giving up their computers. The group sponsors an annual writing competition and conference, and it's all highlighted on a spiffy new Web site at www.DWAA.org. Membership information is also on the site.

PET TIP

Human stupidity (from a cat's point of view, that is) in misreading or ignoring body language earns more than a few cat lovers a scratch or bite from time to time -- the result of missing a cat's "I've had enough" signs.

The classic example is the cat who, while being petted, "suddenly" grabs with teeth and claws, to the shock and sometimes anger of the human doing the petting.

In fact, these "out of the blue" attacks rarely are. Before the bite or clawing, a cat gives out subtle (to us, anyway) signs of diminished tolerance. Primary among them: an increase in the stiffness and twitching of the tail.

The problem often starts with petting your cat's tummy, a vulnerable area for any animal. Watch your cat's body signs: If he's tensing or that tail starts twitching, stop petting immediately. Not only does doing so save you claw and teeth marks, but stopping before your cat strikes also slowly builds up his trust in you and his tolerance for physical attention.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: A friend of mine has a lizard and wants to know if he can get pet/animal insurance. If you could supply me with any companies, I will gladly pass them on. -- L.F., via the Internet.

A: Sorry, but your friend's lizard is out of luck when it comes to health insurance. The major supplier of health coverage for pets, Veterinary Pet Insurance, offers policies for dogs and cats only.

VPI has come a long way with that coverage, however. The Anaheim, Calif.,-based company nearly closed a few years ago and was notorious for its delays in paying claims. Now the company is healthy, and the turnaround time for claims is three to five days, according to a VPI representative.

The company has plans for kittens and puppies, and also covers a range of routine and preventive care costs as well as major medical.

For more information, call 1-800-USA-PETS, or visit the company's Web site at www.petinsurance.com.

Q: My black Lab Cobi is killing my beautiful lawn. I've been told diet will cure this. Is that true? Please recommend a brand if true. My other problem is shedding. Can diet help dander and constant shedding? -- D.G. Bloomsburg, Pa.

A: No diet will fix these "problems," which are a natural part of being a dog.

The best way to keep urine from ruining your lawn is to make sure it goes somewhere else -- by training your pet to use an out-of-sight "pit stop" area.

You can reduce the potential damage to your lawn by flushing the piddled-on area immediately with water. That dilutes the urine to the point where it's not so damaging to the lawn.

Encouraging your pet to drink lots of water also helps for the same reason. Adding salt to your pet's diet to increase water consumption is sometimes recommended, but forget this bad advice. Your dog doesn't need the extra salt.

Excessive shedding can be seasonal, hormonal (in the case of unspayed females) or a sign of illness. A visit to your veterinarian will help you figure out what's normal for your dog. Daily brushing will help keep loose hair from ending up where you don't want it and will strengthen the bond between you and your pet.

Q. Are cocker spaniels born with a bobbed tail or with a regular-sized tail? -- B.B., Miami

A. Like most of more than three dozen breeds shown with short tails, the cocker's tail is docked in the first few days of life. The idea behind docking is to prevent injury in the field for some of the hunting, herding and terrier breeds. There's no arguing with the logic of it; you can't hurt what you don't have. Still, most dogs do fine with their tails, and so too would the docked ones if allowed. Docking today is about looks and tradition.

Understandably, the procedure is controversial, although not as much as ear-cropping, which is performed on older puppies. Done by a veterinarian or experienced breeder, tail docks cause only a short-term amount of discomfort in puppies.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Giori(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600