If you want to thank someone for the pleasure of your indoor cat, thank the late Edward Lowe, the creator of Kitty Litter. In one of those fabled American success stories, Lowe was looking for new uses for clay some 50 years ago when he happened upon the one that would make him rich and cat lovers happy -- albeit not at the very moment they're attending to that litter.

Filling cat boxes is an industry worth more than $600 million today, with more variety than Lowe could have ever imagined when he hand-labeled that first 5-pound bag. But what about something to put the litter in? In recent years some of the most interesting innovations have come in the cat-box area. Here are most of your options:

-- Disposable pans. Small, cardboard litter boxes are popular with shelters, rescuers, pet stores and some breeders, but probably aren't too practical for long-term use for your pet cat. Still, you may consider keeping a few of these on hand in case a stray walks into your life, or for young kittens or cats who need nursing back to health.

-- Household items. A 9-by-13-inch metal baking dish, too worn for cooking, can be a good first litter box for a kitten, its low sides making it easy for babies to hop in and out of. Plastic dishpans, with their high sides, can be a good choice for cats who like to kick their litter everywhere; you can cut down one side if necessary for easier access.

-- Simple plastic pans. Millions of cats have done just fine with this design, and yours may be among them. Relatively inexpensive and widely available, these pans come in a variety of shapes, sizes and colors. Some have special rims to keep more filler in the box. Make sure that the one you choose is easy to scrub clean.

-- Covered pans. Manufacturers say covered pans keep down odors and prevent dogs and children from getting into the filler. Unfortunately, some owners take the approach that if they can't smell the litter box, it doesn't need attention, and the cat who feels otherwise finds someplace else to go. If you choose this kind of pan, don't forget that you must be as on top of its cleaning as you would with any other variety. Don't blame your cat for mistakes if you can't keep the litter box clean regularly. One caution: Cats with asthma should not use a covered litter pan. They need the increased ventilation that an open-air variety offers.

-- Self-cleaning pans. No one likes to clean the litter box, but some cats are so fussy that if you let this important chore wait, your cat may turn up her nose and go elsewhere. In recent years, inventors have come up with new pans that make cleaning a nearly hands-off affair, thanks to the easy-clean properties of clumping cat-box filler.

Some of these boxes have lift-and-sift inserts that collect used clumps as you remove them, while you roll the others over, thereby running litter through a collector that catches and holds the clumps.

The absolute high end of the easy-clean line would have to be the electric litter box, as anyone who watches late-night infomercials can attest. One veterinarian friend of mine gleefully snapped up the product at a trade show and was disappointed to report his cats found it too spooky to use. Other cats may feel differently, though, and yours may be among them.

His experience points out the most important thing to remember when choosing -- and filling -- a litter box. The only opinion that really counts is your cat's. When you hit the magic solution that makes you both happy, stick with it.

PETS ON THE WEB

Forget cat boxes, forget litter, forget cleaning, forget smell. Your cat can learn to use the toilet. While books and articles on teaching this useful trick have been around for years, the How to Toilet Train Your Cat Web site (www.rainfrog.com/mishacat/toilet.shtml) does as good a job as I've seen in explaining how it's done. The author goes over the steps, setbacks and challenges, all with lots of photos of the author's cat, Misha, doing more or less what comes naturally on the commode. Remember: Lid up, seat down.

PET TIP

Is your dog wearing one of those slip-chain training collars, commonly known as a choke collar, for everyday wear? If so, take it off right now and give your pet a hug of thanks that he's still with you. The moving ring of a choke collar can catch on many things, even the teeth of another dog in play. Once snagged, a dog reacts instinctively -- and completely wrong -- by pulling away. The noose only gets tighter and more deadly the more he pulls. Many dogs have died in such circumstances, and some owners have been bitten trying to free a frantic pet.

For safety, a buckled or snap-together collar (leather or nylon) should be your dog's everyday wear. The fit should be a tad looser than snug. You should be able to work one finger under the collar for a small dog, two for a large one. And don't forget to attach current ID tags and a license.

Restrict the use of the slip-chain collar to training or walking. Get in the habit of taking the slip-chain off when you unleash your dog and leaving it attached to your leash, so you'll always have it handy.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have a 2-year-old Chinook mix we got from the pound. She's a great dog at home. At the park or the vet, though, it's another story. At the park, she will bark like a maniac when other dogs pass by or come near.

We are training her at the park now, praising her and stuffing her with treats when she can sit/stay with a minimum of barking as dogs pass about 10 feet away. But there are still times when she'll lose it and start barking like a crazed animal. I am wondering if a muzzle might help her train by preventing her from barking and getting herself even more worked up. -- G.M, via the Internet

A: Instead of a muzzle, try a head halter. Canine halters work on the same principle that equine versions do: Control the head and the body will follow. The leash is attached to a ring under the jaw, and when pulled, puts pressure around the dog's muzzle and neck -- both important in canine body language. Properly fitted and used, head halters can shift the balance of power in your favor.

I would also suggest a couple of private sessions with a good trainer. An experienced trainer can spot what you're doing wrong, turn your dog around quickly, and show you how to handle your pet's daily challenges.

Q: My brother wants to let his iguana go when we get to Florida. Is that OK? Will the iguana be able to live? -- N.T., via the Internet

A: Aside from the cruel proposition of turning loose a domesticated animal to fend for itself, your brother's plan is a bad one for the sake of the environment. The release or escape of non-native plants and animals causes a great deal of problems in places where they can do well enough to displace native species. Keep your pet contained and well-cared-for, for its own good and for the good of the nondomesticated animals it may come in contact with in the wild.

Q: Do you have any recipes for dog treats?

A: Try these liver brownies. Or, rather, prepare them and give them to your pet!

LIVER BROWNIES

-- 1 pound of liver, pureed in blender or food processor;

-- 1 cup corn meal;

-- garlic powder to taste (your dog's, not yours);

-- a little water to get the consistency of chewy brownie batter.

Mix and spread in brownie pan. Bake about 25 minutes at 325-350 degrees. Stick a knife in center to see if they are done. Cool and cut. They can be frozen for later use.

Looking for more? Try Kim Campbell Thornton's book, "Dog Treats" (Doubleday, $7.95).

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

For most cats, one of the most stressful events of their lives is a distracting time for their owners as well: changing addresses. Combine traveling with suddenly being in unfamiliar surroundings, and you can easily understand why cats end up freaked out after a move.

While you'll never manage a stress-free move, for either you or your cat, you can make the best of the situation by keeping your cat secure before, during and after the move, and then allowing your pet to ease into his new surroundings.

The best way to move your cat is to confine him to a small area (I call it a "safe room") before and after the move. The ideal is a spare bedroom where your cat isn't going to be disturbed, outfitted with food and water, a litter box, a scratching post and toys.

Don't feel bad about confining your pet: He's more comfortable in a small space, and he isn't subjected to the stress of seeing people tromping out of the house with his belongings. Confining your cat also prevents him from slipping out, which is a danger at both the old and new home. Even if your cat turns up back at your old place, a reunion can be hard to arrange if you need to leave before you find him, especially if you've moved to another city.

Your cat should be confined in his safe room before packing begins, be moved to his new home in a carrier, and then be confined again in his new safe room until the moving is over, the furniture arranged and most of the dust settled.

When you get to your new home, put the carrier down in the safe room, open the door and let your cat decide when to come out.

After he's a little calmer, you can coax him out with some fresh food or treats, but don't rush him and don't drag him out -- you may be bitten or scratched. Leave the carrier, with its door removed, in the safe room. It is the most familiar place in your new home in your cat's mind and will likely be his chosen spot for a few days until this new house becomes his new home.

After a couple of days, open the door to the safe room and let your cat explore at will, on his terms, but just within the limits of the house. He still needs to be kept completely inside for a couple of weeks if he's not a completely indoor cat, to start him forming a bond with his new surroundings.

If you've been contemplating converting your cat to indoors-only, moving is a great time to do it, by the way. He'd carry on like crazy in your old home if locked in, but in new surroundings he'll accept the change better. Part of the reason cats don't like to convert is because they've marked the outside as part of their territory and have a natural desire to revisit and re-mark. A newly moved cat will come to accept the territory he has been offered, and if the outdoors isn't part of it, he won't miss it so much.

Above all, don't rush your cat. A slow transition with a period of confinement is also good for avoiding behavior problems that might pop up with the stress of moving. By limiting your cat's options to the litter box and scratching post in his safe room, he will quickly redevelop the good habits he had in your old home.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Dog Writers Association of America was founded in the days when the handful of writers who covered dogs were mostly men who did their work on manual typewriters. A lot has changed in 60-plus years, and the DWAA now has plenty of women among its hundreds of members, many of whom would abandon their spouses -- but probably not their dogs -- before giving up their computers. The group sponsors an annual writing competition and conference, and it's all highlighted on a spiffy new Web site at www.DWAA.org. Membership information is also on the site.

PET TIP

Human stupidity (from a cat's point of view, that is) in misreading or ignoring body language earns more than a few cat lovers a scratch or bite from time to time -- the result of missing a cat's "I've had enough" signs.

The classic example is the cat who, while being petted, "suddenly" grabs with teeth and claws, to the shock and sometimes anger of the human doing the petting.

In fact, these "out of the blue" attacks rarely are. Before the bite or clawing, a cat gives out subtle (to us, anyway) signs of diminished tolerance. Primary among them: an increase in the stiffness and twitching of the tail.

The problem often starts with petting your cat's tummy, a vulnerable area for any animal. Watch your cat's body signs: If he's tensing or that tail starts twitching, stop petting immediately. Not only does doing so save you claw and teeth marks, but stopping before your cat strikes also slowly builds up his trust in you and his tolerance for physical attention.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: A friend of mine has a lizard and wants to know if he can get pet/animal insurance. If you could supply me with any companies, I will gladly pass them on. -- L.F., via the Internet.

A: Sorry, but your friend's lizard is out of luck when it comes to health insurance. The major supplier of health coverage for pets, Veterinary Pet Insurance, offers policies for dogs and cats only.

VPI has come a long way with that coverage, however. The Anaheim, Calif.,-based company nearly closed a few years ago and was notorious for its delays in paying claims. Now the company is healthy, and the turnaround time for claims is three to five days, according to a VPI representative.

The company has plans for kittens and puppies, and also covers a range of routine and preventive care costs as well as major medical.

For more information, call 1-800-USA-PETS, or visit the company's Web site at www.petinsurance.com.

Q: My black Lab Cobi is killing my beautiful lawn. I've been told diet will cure this. Is that true? Please recommend a brand if true. My other problem is shedding. Can diet help dander and constant shedding? -- D.G. Bloomsburg, Pa.

A: No diet will fix these "problems," which are a natural part of being a dog.

The best way to keep urine from ruining your lawn is to make sure it goes somewhere else -- by training your pet to use an out-of-sight "pit stop" area.

You can reduce the potential damage to your lawn by flushing the piddled-on area immediately with water. That dilutes the urine to the point where it's not so damaging to the lawn.

Encouraging your pet to drink lots of water also helps for the same reason. Adding salt to your pet's diet to increase water consumption is sometimes recommended, but forget this bad advice. Your dog doesn't need the extra salt.

Excessive shedding can be seasonal, hormonal (in the case of unspayed females) or a sign of illness. A visit to your veterinarian will help you figure out what's normal for your dog. Daily brushing will help keep loose hair from ending up where you don't want it and will strengthen the bond between you and your pet.

Q. Are cocker spaniels born with a bobbed tail or with a regular-sized tail? -- B.B., Miami

A. Like most of more than three dozen breeds shown with short tails, the cocker's tail is docked in the first few days of life. The idea behind docking is to prevent injury in the field for some of the hunting, herding and terrier breeds. There's no arguing with the logic of it; you can't hurt what you don't have. Still, most dogs do fine with their tails, and so too would the docked ones if allowed. Docking today is about looks and tradition.

Understandably, the procedure is controversial, although not as much as ear-cropping, which is performed on older puppies. Done by a veterinarian or experienced breeder, tail docks cause only a short-term amount of discomfort in puppies.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Giori(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

If you've been thinking about adding a kitten to your household, this is the time to do it. From now until the early fall, it's kitten season at the shelters. While the situation is sad proof that education about spaying and neutering still has a long way to go, it does mean you're sure to find the perfect kitten -- and save a life in the bargain.

What is a "perfect kitten"? You'll do best with one that is friendly and well-socialized, has an activity level you can live with, and appeals to your aesthetic sense of what feline beauty is all about. You're looking for a baby bursting with good health and playfulness -- bright eyes, clear nose, clean ears and fanny, glossy coat -- that isn't afraid of people and, better yet, considers them the source of all good things.

Checking out kittens is really about playing with them, and that's something you can never have enough of. Here are a few things to remember while you're playing:

-- Concentrate on the kitten as an individual. All kittens are adorable, so try to look beyond such things as color or markings. Sure, you ought to like the looks of your cat, but the personality is just as important.

-- Don't hurry. Test as many kittens as you like and enjoy the time with each one. If you rush things and take the first kitten you see, the kitten who might have been a better match for you may never find a home. An impulse adoption is never a good idea.

Start your testing by picking up the kitten carefully, with a reassuring but gentle grip under her belly, and setting her down in a safe area away from the others.

Let her explore her new environment a little while as you settle onto the floor and see how she reacts to you. She should be interested and inquisitive and not too timid. Chirp at her and tease her with a leaf, feather or cat toy. She should pursue it eagerly, batting at it and pouncing as she goes, and sitting up on her haunches to swat at it as you tease it overhead. This is all normal behavior for a healthy, outgoing kitten.

Try to spend some quiet time, too. The kitten you want should be neither too shy nor too assertive and active. She should be comfortable being held, enjoying your stroking and soothing voice. One who constantly struggles to wriggle free and keep playing -- even if not doing so out of fear -- may grow up into a cat that is too active for you.

A practical approach is good when narrowing down the field. Don't spend too much time considering frightened kittens or the wild ones who spit and hiss in terror at your approach. While it is true that patience, kindness and love have turned around many a problem kitty, be sure you're up to the challenge before taking on one of these babies.

Once you have your contenders, it's time to listen to your heart and that little "click" that's the beginning of a special bond between you. If you're finding it impossible to settle on one kitten, consider taking two. Kittens do well in pairs, especially in households where they're left alone for long periods.

Adopting a kitten is a joyous occasion, but remember the ones you leave behind. Since you can't take them all, do what you can to help: Get your new baby (or babies) spayed or neutered at the earliest opportunity.

PETS ON THE WEB

All cats are beautiful, and if there's one organization that surely agrees with that statement wholeheartedly, it's the Happy Household Pet Cat Club. The group is dedicated to encouraging the proper care of all cats, promoting spaying and neutering, and making a place in the show world for cats of unknown parentage. The organization's Web site (www.best.com/(tilde)slewis/HHPCC/home.shtml) spells out these goals and offers detailed help for the person who's thinking about showing a cat -- how to enter, how to groom, what to do when you get there, and so on. The page also contains a list of top show winners and gives a special honor to rescued cats.

PET TIP

This is the time of year when many people pack up the family -- dog included, of course! -- and take a road trip. One of the best things you can do to ensure a disaster-free vacation where your pet is concerned is to make sure collars and tags are in good order.

Your dog should be wearing a sturdy collar with a license and an up-to-date ID tag that has at least one number, area code included, that's not yours -- someone who'll be there to answer the phone should you lose your dog miles from home. Ideally, your pet should also be equipped with an imbedded microchip for an unshakable, permanent ID.

One of the best travel tips I ever got came from a co-worker who logs lots of miles with her dog. She got me started using paper key tags for disposable IDs. You can buy a huge bag of them at any hardware store for not a lot of money and throw a couple dozen in a plastic bag in your glove box. Every time you change location on a vacation, write the day's information on the tag, for example: Pretty Tree Campsite No. 15, or Sea Dog Inn, Room 32, 123-555-DOGS.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have a purebred golden retriever who's six months old and hasn't come into heat yet. Shouldn't that have happened by now? How long will she be in season? -- D.B. via the Internet

A. Females dogs reach sexual maturity at different times, with smaller breeds generally attaining it more quickly than larger ones. A dog's first heat can occur anytime from about six months to 24 months, although most dogs will come into season for the first time within their first year of life.

After they start, females come into heat for 21 to 30 days every five to seven months. The period starts at the first sign of bleeding and ends when she loses all interest in breeding. Females become interested in breeding about a week after the season begins, and some of them become so keen on it they'll try to mate with neutered dogs or escape to find suitors. You have to watch your dog very carefully.

Females are most fertile when they begin "flagging," flipping their tails up and out of the way in response to any touch on the rump.

If you're waiting until after her first season to spay her, don't. Forget that old myth that spaying shouldn't be done until after the first season, or worse, after the first litter. Aside from doing your part to prevent unwanted pets, spaying before the first season can eliminate the risk of some cancers and greatly reduce the possibility of others. Spaying and neutering can now be safely performed on dogs and cats as young as 8 weeks.

Q. We live in skunk country, and my dog doesn't seem to have the good sense to let them be. I know it's just a matter of time before he gets sprayed, and I want to be ready. What's the best way to get out skunk smell? -- S.D. via the Internet

A. Even more important if you live in an area where wild animals are plentiful is to make sure all your animals are kept current on their rabies vaccinations -- for your safety, as well as theirs.

As for the smell, the old standby, tomato juice, works well, as does white vinegar. (Following the same principal, vinegar and water douches also work, but you might be too embarrassed to buy them in bulk.) Commercial preparations are available in most pet-supply stores, and these work best of all. Saturate your pet with whatever you use, let it sit for a few minutes, and then follow with a regular soap-and-water bath. That should get rid of the worst of it, but your pet will still smell a bit for quite a while.

If, while working with your pet, you find evidence that the skunk may also have bitten him, stop and call your local public health office immediately. Your dog may need to be quarantined. If that seems drastic, remember that once it takes hold, rabies is a fatal disease. Don't take any chances.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina@aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600