For most cats, one of the most stressful events of their lives is a distracting time for their owners as well: changing addresses. Combine traveling with suddenly being in unfamiliar surroundings, and you can easily understand why cats end up freaked out after a move.

While you'll never manage a stress-free move, for either you or your cat, you can make the best of the situation by keeping your cat secure before, during and after the move, and then allowing your pet to ease into his new surroundings.

The best way to move your cat is to confine him to a small area (I call it a "safe room") before and after the move. The ideal is a spare bedroom where your cat isn't going to be disturbed, outfitted with food and water, a litter box, a scratching post and toys.

Don't feel bad about confining your pet: He's more comfortable in a small space, and he isn't subjected to the stress of seeing people tromping out of the house with his belongings. Confining your cat also prevents him from slipping out, which is a danger at both the old and new home. Even if your cat turns up back at your old place, a reunion can be hard to arrange if you need to leave before you find him, especially if you've moved to another city.

Your cat should be confined in his safe room before packing begins, be moved to his new home in a carrier, and then be confined again in his new safe room until the moving is over, the furniture arranged and most of the dust settled.

When you get to your new home, put the carrier down in the safe room, open the door and let your cat decide when to come out.

After he's a little calmer, you can coax him out with some fresh food or treats, but don't rush him and don't drag him out -- you may be bitten or scratched. Leave the carrier, with its door removed, in the safe room. It is the most familiar place in your new home in your cat's mind and will likely be his chosen spot for a few days until this new house becomes his new home.

After a couple of days, open the door to the safe room and let your cat explore at will, on his terms, but just within the limits of the house. He still needs to be kept completely inside for a couple of weeks if he's not a completely indoor cat, to start him forming a bond with his new surroundings.

If you've been contemplating converting your cat to indoors-only, moving is a great time to do it, by the way. He'd carry on like crazy in your old home if locked in, but in new surroundings he'll accept the change better. Part of the reason cats don't like to convert is because they've marked the outside as part of their territory and have a natural desire to revisit and re-mark. A newly moved cat will come to accept the territory he has been offered, and if the outdoors isn't part of it, he won't miss it so much.

Above all, don't rush your cat. A slow transition with a period of confinement is also good for avoiding behavior problems that might pop up with the stress of moving. By limiting your cat's options to the litter box and scratching post in his safe room, he will quickly redevelop the good habits he had in your old home.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Dog Writers Association of America was founded in the days when the handful of writers who covered dogs were mostly men who did their work on manual typewriters. A lot has changed in 60-plus years, and the DWAA now has plenty of women among its hundreds of members, many of whom would abandon their spouses -- but probably not their dogs -- before giving up their computers. The group sponsors an annual writing competition and conference, and it's all highlighted on a spiffy new Web site at www.DWAA.org. Membership information is also on the site.

PET TIP

Human stupidity (from a cat's point of view, that is) in misreading or ignoring body language earns more than a few cat lovers a scratch or bite from time to time -- the result of missing a cat's "I've had enough" signs.

The classic example is the cat who, while being petted, "suddenly" grabs with teeth and claws, to the shock and sometimes anger of the human doing the petting.

In fact, these "out of the blue" attacks rarely are. Before the bite or clawing, a cat gives out subtle (to us, anyway) signs of diminished tolerance. Primary among them: an increase in the stiffness and twitching of the tail.

The problem often starts with petting your cat's tummy, a vulnerable area for any animal. Watch your cat's body signs: If he's tensing or that tail starts twitching, stop petting immediately. Not only does doing so save you claw and teeth marks, but stopping before your cat strikes also slowly builds up his trust in you and his tolerance for physical attention.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: A friend of mine has a lizard and wants to know if he can get pet/animal insurance. If you could supply me with any companies, I will gladly pass them on. -- L.F., via the Internet.

A: Sorry, but your friend's lizard is out of luck when it comes to health insurance. The major supplier of health coverage for pets, Veterinary Pet Insurance, offers policies for dogs and cats only.

VPI has come a long way with that coverage, however. The Anaheim, Calif.,-based company nearly closed a few years ago and was notorious for its delays in paying claims. Now the company is healthy, and the turnaround time for claims is three to five days, according to a VPI representative.

The company has plans for kittens and puppies, and also covers a range of routine and preventive care costs as well as major medical.

For more information, call 1-800-USA-PETS, or visit the company's Web site at www.petinsurance.com.

Q: My black Lab Cobi is killing my beautiful lawn. I've been told diet will cure this. Is that true? Please recommend a brand if true. My other problem is shedding. Can diet help dander and constant shedding? -- D.G. Bloomsburg, Pa.

A: No diet will fix these "problems," which are a natural part of being a dog.

The best way to keep urine from ruining your lawn is to make sure it goes somewhere else -- by training your pet to use an out-of-sight "pit stop" area.

You can reduce the potential damage to your lawn by flushing the piddled-on area immediately with water. That dilutes the urine to the point where it's not so damaging to the lawn.

Encouraging your pet to drink lots of water also helps for the same reason. Adding salt to your pet's diet to increase water consumption is sometimes recommended, but forget this bad advice. Your dog doesn't need the extra salt.

Excessive shedding can be seasonal, hormonal (in the case of unspayed females) or a sign of illness. A visit to your veterinarian will help you figure out what's normal for your dog. Daily brushing will help keep loose hair from ending up where you don't want it and will strengthen the bond between you and your pet.

Q. Are cocker spaniels born with a bobbed tail or with a regular-sized tail? -- B.B., Miami

A. Like most of more than three dozen breeds shown with short tails, the cocker's tail is docked in the first few days of life. The idea behind docking is to prevent injury in the field for some of the hunting, herding and terrier breeds. There's no arguing with the logic of it; you can't hurt what you don't have. Still, most dogs do fine with their tails, and so too would the docked ones if allowed. Docking today is about looks and tradition.

Understandably, the procedure is controversial, although not as much as ear-cropping, which is performed on older puppies. Done by a veterinarian or experienced breeder, tail docks cause only a short-term amount of discomfort in puppies.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Giori(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

If you've been thinking about adding a kitten to your household, this is the time to do it. From now until the early fall, it's kitten season at the shelters. While the situation is sad proof that education about spaying and neutering still has a long way to go, it does mean you're sure to find the perfect kitten -- and save a life in the bargain.

What is a "perfect kitten"? You'll do best with one that is friendly and well-socialized, has an activity level you can live with, and appeals to your aesthetic sense of what feline beauty is all about. You're looking for a baby bursting with good health and playfulness -- bright eyes, clear nose, clean ears and fanny, glossy coat -- that isn't afraid of people and, better yet, considers them the source of all good things.

Checking out kittens is really about playing with them, and that's something you can never have enough of. Here are a few things to remember while you're playing:

-- Concentrate on the kitten as an individual. All kittens are adorable, so try to look beyond such things as color or markings. Sure, you ought to like the looks of your cat, but the personality is just as important.

-- Don't hurry. Test as many kittens as you like and enjoy the time with each one. If you rush things and take the first kitten you see, the kitten who might have been a better match for you may never find a home. An impulse adoption is never a good idea.

Start your testing by picking up the kitten carefully, with a reassuring but gentle grip under her belly, and setting her down in a safe area away from the others.

Let her explore her new environment a little while as you settle onto the floor and see how she reacts to you. She should be interested and inquisitive and not too timid. Chirp at her and tease her with a leaf, feather or cat toy. She should pursue it eagerly, batting at it and pouncing as she goes, and sitting up on her haunches to swat at it as you tease it overhead. This is all normal behavior for a healthy, outgoing kitten.

Try to spend some quiet time, too. The kitten you want should be neither too shy nor too assertive and active. She should be comfortable being held, enjoying your stroking and soothing voice. One who constantly struggles to wriggle free and keep playing -- even if not doing so out of fear -- may grow up into a cat that is too active for you.

A practical approach is good when narrowing down the field. Don't spend too much time considering frightened kittens or the wild ones who spit and hiss in terror at your approach. While it is true that patience, kindness and love have turned around many a problem kitty, be sure you're up to the challenge before taking on one of these babies.

Once you have your contenders, it's time to listen to your heart and that little "click" that's the beginning of a special bond between you. If you're finding it impossible to settle on one kitten, consider taking two. Kittens do well in pairs, especially in households where they're left alone for long periods.

Adopting a kitten is a joyous occasion, but remember the ones you leave behind. Since you can't take them all, do what you can to help: Get your new baby (or babies) spayed or neutered at the earliest opportunity.

PETS ON THE WEB

All cats are beautiful, and if there's one organization that surely agrees with that statement wholeheartedly, it's the Happy Household Pet Cat Club. The group is dedicated to encouraging the proper care of all cats, promoting spaying and neutering, and making a place in the show world for cats of unknown parentage. The organization's Web site (www.best.com/(tilde)slewis/HHPCC/home.shtml) spells out these goals and offers detailed help for the person who's thinking about showing a cat -- how to enter, how to groom, what to do when you get there, and so on. The page also contains a list of top show winners and gives a special honor to rescued cats.

PET TIP

This is the time of year when many people pack up the family -- dog included, of course! -- and take a road trip. One of the best things you can do to ensure a disaster-free vacation where your pet is concerned is to make sure collars and tags are in good order.

Your dog should be wearing a sturdy collar with a license and an up-to-date ID tag that has at least one number, area code included, that's not yours -- someone who'll be there to answer the phone should you lose your dog miles from home. Ideally, your pet should also be equipped with an imbedded microchip for an unshakable, permanent ID.

One of the best travel tips I ever got came from a co-worker who logs lots of miles with her dog. She got me started using paper key tags for disposable IDs. You can buy a huge bag of them at any hardware store for not a lot of money and throw a couple dozen in a plastic bag in your glove box. Every time you change location on a vacation, write the day's information on the tag, for example: Pretty Tree Campsite No. 15, or Sea Dog Inn, Room 32, 123-555-DOGS.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have a purebred golden retriever who's six months old and hasn't come into heat yet. Shouldn't that have happened by now? How long will she be in season? -- D.B. via the Internet

A. Females dogs reach sexual maturity at different times, with smaller breeds generally attaining it more quickly than larger ones. A dog's first heat can occur anytime from about six months to 24 months, although most dogs will come into season for the first time within their first year of life.

After they start, females come into heat for 21 to 30 days every five to seven months. The period starts at the first sign of bleeding and ends when she loses all interest in breeding. Females become interested in breeding about a week after the season begins, and some of them become so keen on it they'll try to mate with neutered dogs or escape to find suitors. You have to watch your dog very carefully.

Females are most fertile when they begin "flagging," flipping their tails up and out of the way in response to any touch on the rump.

If you're waiting until after her first season to spay her, don't. Forget that old myth that spaying shouldn't be done until after the first season, or worse, after the first litter. Aside from doing your part to prevent unwanted pets, spaying before the first season can eliminate the risk of some cancers and greatly reduce the possibility of others. Spaying and neutering can now be safely performed on dogs and cats as young as 8 weeks.

Q. We live in skunk country, and my dog doesn't seem to have the good sense to let them be. I know it's just a matter of time before he gets sprayed, and I want to be ready. What's the best way to get out skunk smell? -- S.D. via the Internet

A. Even more important if you live in an area where wild animals are plentiful is to make sure all your animals are kept current on their rabies vaccinations -- for your safety, as well as theirs.

As for the smell, the old standby, tomato juice, works well, as does white vinegar. (Following the same principal, vinegar and water douches also work, but you might be too embarrassed to buy them in bulk.) Commercial preparations are available in most pet-supply stores, and these work best of all. Saturate your pet with whatever you use, let it sit for a few minutes, and then follow with a regular soap-and-water bath. That should get rid of the worst of it, but your pet will still smell a bit for quite a while.

If, while working with your pet, you find evidence that the skunk may also have bitten him, stop and call your local public health office immediately. Your dog may need to be quarantined. If that seems drastic, remember that once it takes hold, rabies is a fatal disease. Don't take any chances.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina@aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Owning a dog is expensive, no doubt about it. Food, veterinary expenses, vacation care, equipment and toys -- they all add up, sometimes to more than you'd like to think about.

But one of the most important elements of keeping a dog happy is free, in limitless supply and never used enough. That element? Praise!

On almost any summer evening you can find an obedience class in your community, full of eager beginners and excited dogs trying to master the rudiments of correct canine social behavior. The skills of a dog trainer are pretty tough to learn, and for most beginners, learning to walk with the dog at heel without tripping on left turns, the leash or the dog is quite an accomplishment.

But they're working at it, anyone can see. Sit nearby and watch, and you can see them recite the steps as they go through the exercises. By the time they get to that last step -- praise -- it's forgotten or glossed over with a quick and cursory "Good dog." And that's too bad.

A dog trainer told me once that teaching new dog owners to praise their pups is the hardest part of her classes. Another trainer makes it part of his lesson plan to teach people not only to praise their dogs, but also how to play with them. He does it for a reason: All praise is good, but praise specially tailored to connect with the dog's way of reacting is 10 times more effective.

So how do you get through to your pet in a positive way? Here are a few tips:

-- Use the right tone of voice. Dogs communicate with each other through sounds easily duplicated by humans. If you're unhappy with your dog, for example, dropping your voice to a low rumble will closely approximate the growling of a dog. For praise, use a sweet, high-pitched crooning voice -- "Goooooooood doooogggg. Aaaren't youuuu a gooood doooog?" Try your new crooning voice on your dog, and if his tail isn't wagging within five seconds, go up another octave. "GoOOOoood dooooog."

-- Tap into your dog's body language. Eye contact is one of the most important areas of communication for dogs, and mastering eye contact, dog-style, immediately strengthens your relationship. Catch your dog's eye by swooping your hand under his chin, bringing your fingers back up near your eyes while you make a clucking noise. The upward motion and the sound will orient your dog's eyes up so he's looking right into your own. When they lock in, praise. "GooooOOOOOoooood dooog."

-- Tailor your petting style to your dog. Some dogs go crazy when petted; others hardly notice. Keep the petting -- a little chest pat, or a chin scratch -- light for the most touch-sensitive, and a little more boisterous for the inattentive. Don't let the dog take petting as an excuse to go crazy -- lighten up on the pats, but don't correct him -- and let your eyes and voice do most of the praising.

-- Smile when you say that, pardner. Dogs understand many of our facial expressions because they use similar ones to communicate with each other. A smiling face is understood in both species, but if you really want to get through, make it as wide-open a smile as you can. You're trying to approximate that big panting grin a happy dog has. Panting is optional, but fun.

You'll probably find that you were doing most of it right. If you weren't, don't despair -- consider how hard it is sometimes to communicate with our OWN species! Practice praise often. Your dog won't mind, because to a dog, praise is payday and thank-you all rolled into one. Plus, it'll strengthen the bond between you.

PETS ON THE WEB

What would you do with your pets in a disaster? If you don't have a plan, a good place to start is with the American Red Cross page of disaster planning tips for animal-lovers (www.redcross.org/disaster/safety/pets.html), prepared in conjunction with the Humane Society of the United States. What's really impressive about this site is its thoroughness: Instead of limiting the discussion to dogs and cats, the Red Cross and HSUS offer suggestions for those with any animal companions -- birds, reptiles and small pets such as rabbits and hamsters.

PET TIP

How old is your cat in "people years"? Some suggest a guideline of one "cat year" equal to four "people years," but it really doesn't work out that neatly. You can see the problem from the beginning: A 1-year-old cat is nearly mature, but you can't say the same thing about a human 4-year-old.

A better way to figure it is to count the first year of a cat's life as comparable to the time a human reaches the early stages of adulthood -- the age of 15 or so. Like a human adolescent, a year-old cat looks fairly grown up and is capable of becoming a parent, but is lacking in emotional maturity.

The second year takes a cat to the equivalent of full adulthood in humans -- a 2-year-old cat is roughly equivalent to a person in the mid-20s. After that, the "one equals four" rule works pretty well. A 6-year-old cat is nicely middle-aged, as is a person in the early 40s.

Oh -- and forget the "one equals seven" rule for dogs. Figure the first couple of years for a dog as you would for a cat, and then add five "people years" for every "dog year" thereafter. Except that small dogs generally mature early and live longer, and giant breeds mature late and can have relatively short lifespans, which throws things off even more.

Confused? Remember what's most important when it comes to keeping those years adding up: working to prevent accidents by keeping your pets contained, as well as ensuring good health through proper nutrition, exercise and preventive veterinary care.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have a 10-week-old Lab/shepherd mix. She's a very calm puppy who has a few energetic bursts every day. I was wondering if you have any suggestions for helping us to get her to explore a little more. We don't mind her being calm, but we don't want her to be extremely scared or nervous of new things and people. Will getting another dog help? She is very interested in watching other dogs when we take her to the veterinarian or when they appear on TV. -- E.K., via the Internet

A: Assuming she has checked out OK healthwise, you've probably got a perfectly normal pup who is just a little on the shy side, a situation that may be temporarily made worse by the uncertainty of a new home and the brief natural periods of shyness all pups go through.

I wouldn't suggest another dog, but getting your pup into the company of other canines is a great idea. The best thing you could do for your pup is to enroll her in a puppy class. Usually offered for puppies starting as young as 3 to 4 months, these classes are about play and socialization, and set the stage for more serious training later. Check with your veterinarian, recreation district or pet-supply store for classes.

In your daily routine, be careful to avoid rewarding shy behavior by accident, such as soothing her when she's acting scared, which sends the wrong message.

Let your pup take her time in working through her shyness. Show her by your attitude that there's nothing to fear -- and praise her for being brave!

Q: We have a chow with a very thick coat, and she gets really hot in the summer. Is it a good idea to shave her down?

A: If you keep your dog well-groomed and ensure adequate shade and water -- or bring her inside -- there's no reason to shave off her coat. Long-haired breeds really aren't as bothered by hot weather as dogs with dark coats (such as Rottweilers or black Labradors) or short muzzles (such as pugs and boxers).

If your pet's coat isn't in the best of shape, though, you might consider a haircut after all. The most humane way of dealing with a badly matted coat in long-haired dogs or cats is to cut it short -- not a close shave, though -- and then work to keep the coat mat-free as it grows out again.

I'm guessing you have a chow at least in part because you like the look of the coat. Do your part to keep it taken care of, and you'll be able to enjoy seeing it year-round, without your pet being miserable.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Giori(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600