If you've been thinking about adding a kitten to your household, this is the time to do it. From now until the early fall, it's kitten season at the shelters. While the situation is sad proof that education about spaying and neutering still has a long way to go, it does mean you're sure to find the perfect kitten -- and save a life in the bargain.

What is a "perfect kitten"? You'll do best with one that is friendly and well-socialized, has an activity level you can live with, and appeals to your aesthetic sense of what feline beauty is all about. You're looking for a baby bursting with good health and playfulness -- bright eyes, clear nose, clean ears and fanny, glossy coat -- that isn't afraid of people and, better yet, considers them the source of all good things.

Checking out kittens is really about playing with them, and that's something you can never have enough of. Here are a few things to remember while you're playing:

-- Concentrate on the kitten as an individual. All kittens are adorable, so try to look beyond such things as color or markings. Sure, you ought to like the looks of your cat, but the personality is just as important.

-- Don't hurry. Test as many kittens as you like and enjoy the time with each one. If you rush things and take the first kitten you see, the kitten who might have been a better match for you may never find a home. An impulse adoption is never a good idea.

Start your testing by picking up the kitten carefully, with a reassuring but gentle grip under her belly, and setting her down in a safe area away from the others.

Let her explore her new environment a little while as you settle onto the floor and see how she reacts to you. She should be interested and inquisitive and not too timid. Chirp at her and tease her with a leaf, feather or cat toy. She should pursue it eagerly, batting at it and pouncing as she goes, and sitting up on her haunches to swat at it as you tease it overhead. This is all normal behavior for a healthy, outgoing kitten.

Try to spend some quiet time, too. The kitten you want should be neither too shy nor too assertive and active. She should be comfortable being held, enjoying your stroking and soothing voice. One who constantly struggles to wriggle free and keep playing -- even if not doing so out of fear -- may grow up into a cat that is too active for you.

A practical approach is good when narrowing down the field. Don't spend too much time considering frightened kittens or the wild ones who spit and hiss in terror at your approach. While it is true that patience, kindness and love have turned around many a problem kitty, be sure you're up to the challenge before taking on one of these babies.

Once you have your contenders, it's time to listen to your heart and that little "click" that's the beginning of a special bond between you. If you're finding it impossible to settle on one kitten, consider taking two. Kittens do well in pairs, especially in households where they're left alone for long periods.

Adopting a kitten is a joyous occasion, but remember the ones you leave behind. Since you can't take them all, do what you can to help: Get your new baby (or babies) spayed or neutered at the earliest opportunity.

PETS ON THE WEB

All cats are beautiful, and if there's one organization that surely agrees with that statement wholeheartedly, it's the Happy Household Pet Cat Club. The group is dedicated to encouraging the proper care of all cats, promoting spaying and neutering, and making a place in the show world for cats of unknown parentage. The organization's Web site (www.best.com/(tilde)slewis/HHPCC/home.shtml) spells out these goals and offers detailed help for the person who's thinking about showing a cat -- how to enter, how to groom, what to do when you get there, and so on. The page also contains a list of top show winners and gives a special honor to rescued cats.

PET TIP

This is the time of year when many people pack up the family -- dog included, of course! -- and take a road trip. One of the best things you can do to ensure a disaster-free vacation where your pet is concerned is to make sure collars and tags are in good order.

Your dog should be wearing a sturdy collar with a license and an up-to-date ID tag that has at least one number, area code included, that's not yours -- someone who'll be there to answer the phone should you lose your dog miles from home. Ideally, your pet should also be equipped with an imbedded microchip for an unshakable, permanent ID.

One of the best travel tips I ever got came from a co-worker who logs lots of miles with her dog. She got me started using paper key tags for disposable IDs. You can buy a huge bag of them at any hardware store for not a lot of money and throw a couple dozen in a plastic bag in your glove box. Every time you change location on a vacation, write the day's information on the tag, for example: Pretty Tree Campsite No. 15, or Sea Dog Inn, Room 32, 123-555-DOGS.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have a purebred golden retriever who's six months old and hasn't come into heat yet. Shouldn't that have happened by now? How long will she be in season? -- D.B. via the Internet

A. Females dogs reach sexual maturity at different times, with smaller breeds generally attaining it more quickly than larger ones. A dog's first heat can occur anytime from about six months to 24 months, although most dogs will come into season for the first time within their first year of life.

After they start, females come into heat for 21 to 30 days every five to seven months. The period starts at the first sign of bleeding and ends when she loses all interest in breeding. Females become interested in breeding about a week after the season begins, and some of them become so keen on it they'll try to mate with neutered dogs or escape to find suitors. You have to watch your dog very carefully.

Females are most fertile when they begin "flagging," flipping their tails up and out of the way in response to any touch on the rump.

If you're waiting until after her first season to spay her, don't. Forget that old myth that spaying shouldn't be done until after the first season, or worse, after the first litter. Aside from doing your part to prevent unwanted pets, spaying before the first season can eliminate the risk of some cancers and greatly reduce the possibility of others. Spaying and neutering can now be safely performed on dogs and cats as young as 8 weeks.

Q. We live in skunk country, and my dog doesn't seem to have the good sense to let them be. I know it's just a matter of time before he gets sprayed, and I want to be ready. What's the best way to get out skunk smell? -- S.D. via the Internet

A. Even more important if you live in an area where wild animals are plentiful is to make sure all your animals are kept current on their rabies vaccinations -- for your safety, as well as theirs.

As for the smell, the old standby, tomato juice, works well, as does white vinegar. (Following the same principal, vinegar and water douches also work, but you might be too embarrassed to buy them in bulk.) Commercial preparations are available in most pet-supply stores, and these work best of all. Saturate your pet with whatever you use, let it sit for a few minutes, and then follow with a regular soap-and-water bath. That should get rid of the worst of it, but your pet will still smell a bit for quite a while.

If, while working with your pet, you find evidence that the skunk may also have bitten him, stop and call your local public health office immediately. Your dog may need to be quarantined. If that seems drastic, remember that once it takes hold, rabies is a fatal disease. Don't take any chances.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina@aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Owning a dog is expensive, no doubt about it. Food, veterinary expenses, vacation care, equipment and toys -- they all add up, sometimes to more than you'd like to think about.

But one of the most important elements of keeping a dog happy is free, in limitless supply and never used enough. That element? Praise!

On almost any summer evening you can find an obedience class in your community, full of eager beginners and excited dogs trying to master the rudiments of correct canine social behavior. The skills of a dog trainer are pretty tough to learn, and for most beginners, learning to walk with the dog at heel without tripping on left turns, the leash or the dog is quite an accomplishment.

But they're working at it, anyone can see. Sit nearby and watch, and you can see them recite the steps as they go through the exercises. By the time they get to that last step -- praise -- it's forgotten or glossed over with a quick and cursory "Good dog." And that's too bad.

A dog trainer told me once that teaching new dog owners to praise their pups is the hardest part of her classes. Another trainer makes it part of his lesson plan to teach people not only to praise their dogs, but also how to play with them. He does it for a reason: All praise is good, but praise specially tailored to connect with the dog's way of reacting is 10 times more effective.

So how do you get through to your pet in a positive way? Here are a few tips:

-- Use the right tone of voice. Dogs communicate with each other through sounds easily duplicated by humans. If you're unhappy with your dog, for example, dropping your voice to a low rumble will closely approximate the growling of a dog. For praise, use a sweet, high-pitched crooning voice -- "Goooooooood doooogggg. Aaaren't youuuu a gooood doooog?" Try your new crooning voice on your dog, and if his tail isn't wagging within five seconds, go up another octave. "GoOOOoood dooooog."

-- Tap into your dog's body language. Eye contact is one of the most important areas of communication for dogs, and mastering eye contact, dog-style, immediately strengthens your relationship. Catch your dog's eye by swooping your hand under his chin, bringing your fingers back up near your eyes while you make a clucking noise. The upward motion and the sound will orient your dog's eyes up so he's looking right into your own. When they lock in, praise. "GooooOOOOOoooood dooog."

-- Tailor your petting style to your dog. Some dogs go crazy when petted; others hardly notice. Keep the petting -- a little chest pat, or a chin scratch -- light for the most touch-sensitive, and a little more boisterous for the inattentive. Don't let the dog take petting as an excuse to go crazy -- lighten up on the pats, but don't correct him -- and let your eyes and voice do most of the praising.

-- Smile when you say that, pardner. Dogs understand many of our facial expressions because they use similar ones to communicate with each other. A smiling face is understood in both species, but if you really want to get through, make it as wide-open a smile as you can. You're trying to approximate that big panting grin a happy dog has. Panting is optional, but fun.

You'll probably find that you were doing most of it right. If you weren't, don't despair -- consider how hard it is sometimes to communicate with our OWN species! Practice praise often. Your dog won't mind, because to a dog, praise is payday and thank-you all rolled into one. Plus, it'll strengthen the bond between you.

PETS ON THE WEB

What would you do with your pets in a disaster? If you don't have a plan, a good place to start is with the American Red Cross page of disaster planning tips for animal-lovers (www.redcross.org/disaster/safety/pets.html), prepared in conjunction with the Humane Society of the United States. What's really impressive about this site is its thoroughness: Instead of limiting the discussion to dogs and cats, the Red Cross and HSUS offer suggestions for those with any animal companions -- birds, reptiles and small pets such as rabbits and hamsters.

PET TIP

How old is your cat in "people years"? Some suggest a guideline of one "cat year" equal to four "people years," but it really doesn't work out that neatly. You can see the problem from the beginning: A 1-year-old cat is nearly mature, but you can't say the same thing about a human 4-year-old.

A better way to figure it is to count the first year of a cat's life as comparable to the time a human reaches the early stages of adulthood -- the age of 15 or so. Like a human adolescent, a year-old cat looks fairly grown up and is capable of becoming a parent, but is lacking in emotional maturity.

The second year takes a cat to the equivalent of full adulthood in humans -- a 2-year-old cat is roughly equivalent to a person in the mid-20s. After that, the "one equals four" rule works pretty well. A 6-year-old cat is nicely middle-aged, as is a person in the early 40s.

Oh -- and forget the "one equals seven" rule for dogs. Figure the first couple of years for a dog as you would for a cat, and then add five "people years" for every "dog year" thereafter. Except that small dogs generally mature early and live longer, and giant breeds mature late and can have relatively short lifespans, which throws things off even more.

Confused? Remember what's most important when it comes to keeping those years adding up: working to prevent accidents by keeping your pets contained, as well as ensuring good health through proper nutrition, exercise and preventive veterinary care.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have a 10-week-old Lab/shepherd mix. She's a very calm puppy who has a few energetic bursts every day. I was wondering if you have any suggestions for helping us to get her to explore a little more. We don't mind her being calm, but we don't want her to be extremely scared or nervous of new things and people. Will getting another dog help? She is very interested in watching other dogs when we take her to the veterinarian or when they appear on TV. -- E.K., via the Internet

A: Assuming she has checked out OK healthwise, you've probably got a perfectly normal pup who is just a little on the shy side, a situation that may be temporarily made worse by the uncertainty of a new home and the brief natural periods of shyness all pups go through.

I wouldn't suggest another dog, but getting your pup into the company of other canines is a great idea. The best thing you could do for your pup is to enroll her in a puppy class. Usually offered for puppies starting as young as 3 to 4 months, these classes are about play and socialization, and set the stage for more serious training later. Check with your veterinarian, recreation district or pet-supply store for classes.

In your daily routine, be careful to avoid rewarding shy behavior by accident, such as soothing her when she's acting scared, which sends the wrong message.

Let your pup take her time in working through her shyness. Show her by your attitude that there's nothing to fear -- and praise her for being brave!

Q: We have a chow with a very thick coat, and she gets really hot in the summer. Is it a good idea to shave her down?

A: If you keep your dog well-groomed and ensure adequate shade and water -- or bring her inside -- there's no reason to shave off her coat. Long-haired breeds really aren't as bothered by hot weather as dogs with dark coats (such as Rottweilers or black Labradors) or short muzzles (such as pugs and boxers).

If your pet's coat isn't in the best of shape, though, you might consider a haircut after all. The most humane way of dealing with a badly matted coat in long-haired dogs or cats is to cut it short -- not a close shave, though -- and then work to keep the coat mat-free as it grows out again.

I'm guessing you have a chow at least in part because you like the look of the coat. Do your part to keep it taken care of, and you'll be able to enjoy seeing it year-round, without your pet being miserable.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Giori(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

For the oldest of my dogs, 12-year-old Andy, one of the problems of advancing age will turn out to be a benefit in the days to come. His hearing failing, Andy won't be bothered by the sound of fireworks.

As troubled as he has been by the racket over the years, his new "handicap" should make this Fourth of July one of the least troublesome I've ever spent. Until recently I've always had dogs who considered the noise a dreadful ordeal. Now with Andy comfortably oblivious and the two retrievers -- both from field-trial backgrounds -- completely unruffled, I'm finally looking forward to the holiday.

But I won't be letting my guard down.

The Fourth of July is the worst holiday for pets and those who love them. As the noise increases, animals get nervous, some to the point of snapping or running in fear. The days after the celebrations find some at the homes of good samaritans or at shelters, safe for a while and waiting for pickup. Others may never make it through the night, or may never be reunited with their families.

Emergency clinics are popular too, as panicky pets also end up hurt. My parents' dog once jumped through a sliding-glass door on the Fourth and needed nearly as many stitches as Betsy Ross put in her flag to survive.

While accidents do happen, you can do a lot to prevent them and make the holiday easier on both you and your pets.

First, make sure your pets are secure. Check your fences and gates. Are there loose or missing boards or enticing gaps at the baseline that could be opened up with a little digging? Fix them all. An anxious pet might be more determined about escape than usual. Better still, bring all your pets in and consider confining them to a small area like a crate or carrier -- especially if you're not staying home to keep an eye on things.

Always assume your pet may become lost and plan accordingly. Collars and tags are tickets home for lost pets; for insurance, add a microchip. Some people worry about the safety of collars on their cats, but one look at all the healthy, well-fed, obviously lost strays in any shelter will tell you that the asset of a collar and tag far outweighs any risks. A shelter worker I know says she's never seen a cat die from a snagged collar, but she's seen too many die because they didn't have any way to be reunited with their owners.

It's a good idea to keep current, clear pictures of your pets on hand in case they do slip away; you'll need them for fliers. If you lose your pet, put fliers everywhere you can and place a lost ad in the paper right away; don't waste precious time hoping your pet will wander home. Scan the neighborhood, watch "found" ads and check the shelters every other day in person. Don't give up too soon: Pets have been located weeks after their disappearance.

While you're planning for the worst, figure out where you'd go for a veterinary emergency. Does your veterinary hospital staff for around-the-clock emergency care? Will they arrange for on-call care? Find out what your veterinarian offers before you need to know, and be sure if you'll be heading to an emergency clinic, you know the phone number and the location.

Finally, if you've got a pet for whom the noise is terrifying, talk to your veterinarian about tranquilizers you can administer at home to take the edge off the worst of it for your pet.

PETS ON THE WEB

The dog-show world checks in at the InfoDog Web site (www.infodog.com), the online home of the nation's top show superintendent, MB-F Inc. At InfoDog you can find out not only the when and where for most shows, but also who'll be judging what and, afterward, who won. If you really want to plan ahead, the judging panel for Westminster Kennel Club (to be held February in New York's Madison Square Garden) is already posted. The site is a tad clunky, but there's lots to sniff through.

PET TIP

Is your dog so bad at nail-trims that you've simply given up? A power tool may be the answer. Rotary grinding tools such as the Dremel are great for keeping nails short, without the wrestling and crying that nail-cutters often provoke.

Use a rough sandpaper head and start slowly. Make sure your pet is comfortable with the whine of the machine, and then work up to a touch of single nail and then a little grinding. Depending on your pet, the learning curve may take just a couple sessions or a great deal longer. With patience and praise, though, you'll both find it easier to keep nails short and feet healthy.

If your dog's nails are out of control, have your veterinarian or groomer take them to a reasonable length to start with. And don't forget to wear a face mask and follow other safety precautions when using the tool --the dust will make you sneeze.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I think my cat has acne -- at least it looks like pimples and blackheads on his chin. What should I do about them? -- P.L., Albuquerque, N.M.

A: Yes, cats get acne too. Most classic acne cases occur in cats who are simply not good chin groomers. But there are many things that can contribute to the development and severity of feline acne and other conditions that mimic it. A few possibilities include parasites, fungus or allergies.

Your veterinarian can help you work out the exact problem. The area will likely need to be kept washed, but don't squeeze the blemishes (pretending, for a moment, that your cat would allow it anyway!). Creams and antibiotics may also be prescribed. If you're following your veterinarian's directions and the problem shows no sign of improvement within a couple weeks, discuss a referral to a dermatology specialist, or consider learning to live with the problem.

The good news is that feline acne is more of an aesthetic dilemma than a serious health concern. As long as the area doesn't become infected, your cat won't be bothered by the blemishes.

Q: We have a 5-month-old pug puppy, and she is adorable. There's just one problem: She has started to wake up at 4 a.m. When she wakes up this early, we give her some food and then go back to bed ourselves.

We've tried keeping her up later. We've tried letting her be, hoping she'll be quiet. Neither works. Is there any way we can help her learn that people need more than 5 1/2 hours of sleep a night? I am so tired most days I can hardly stay awake. -- A.R., the Internet

A. Your puppy has you well-trained: She makes noise and you feed her. Not only that, you've unwittingly reinforced the behavior by showing her that if she doesn't let up, you'll eventually give in.

You're going to have a harder time convincing her otherwise now, but unless you want to spend the rest of your lives getting up at 4 a.m. -- or earlier -- you're going to have to be tough.

Ignore her when she wakes up and starts making noise. Cover your heads with pillows and repeat silently to yourselves, "She's a 5-month-old puppy, and we won't let her buffalo us." Do not let her out, and above all do not feed her: You'll be rewarding the behavior you want ended, and that's what got you into trouble in the first place.

Let her carry on. It may well get worse before it gets better -- remember you've trained her to keep it up -- but it will indeed get better. Work to disassociate rewards of any kind with release from her crate: Don't make a fuss when you let her out and don't feed her right away. Take her outside calmly and praise her for doing her business. In a little while, feed her. She needs to learn to stay quietly in her crate and trust that you will see her needs are met.

I'm guessing she'll learn quickly, but if she doesn't you might also consider using a shot of water from a squirt bottle (don't let her see you shoot her), or gentle anti-bark products such as those that release a sharp tone or a spray of citronella.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Giori(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600