Owning a dog is expensive, no doubt about it. Food, veterinary expenses, vacation care, equipment and toys -- they all add up, sometimes to more than you'd like to think about.

But one of the most important elements of keeping a dog happy is free, in limitless supply and never used enough. That element? Praise!

On almost any summer evening you can find an obedience class in your community, full of eager beginners and excited dogs trying to master the rudiments of correct canine social behavior. The skills of a dog trainer are pretty tough to learn, and for most beginners, learning to walk with the dog at heel without tripping on left turns, the leash or the dog is quite an accomplishment.

But they're working at it, anyone can see. Sit nearby and watch, and you can see them recite the steps as they go through the exercises. By the time they get to that last step -- praise -- it's forgotten or glossed over with a quick and cursory "Good dog." And that's too bad.

A dog trainer told me once that teaching new dog owners to praise their pups is the hardest part of her classes. Another trainer makes it part of his lesson plan to teach people not only to praise their dogs, but also how to play with them. He does it for a reason: All praise is good, but praise specially tailored to connect with the dog's way of reacting is 10 times more effective.

So how do you get through to your pet in a positive way? Here are a few tips:

-- Use the right tone of voice. Dogs communicate with each other through sounds easily duplicated by humans. If you're unhappy with your dog, for example, dropping your voice to a low rumble will closely approximate the growling of a dog. For praise, use a sweet, high-pitched crooning voice -- "Goooooooood doooogggg. Aaaren't youuuu a gooood doooog?" Try your new crooning voice on your dog, and if his tail isn't wagging within five seconds, go up another octave. "GoOOOoood dooooog."

-- Tap into your dog's body language. Eye contact is one of the most important areas of communication for dogs, and mastering eye contact, dog-style, immediately strengthens your relationship. Catch your dog's eye by swooping your hand under his chin, bringing your fingers back up near your eyes while you make a clucking noise. The upward motion and the sound will orient your dog's eyes up so he's looking right into your own. When they lock in, praise. "GooooOOOOOoooood dooog."

-- Tailor your petting style to your dog. Some dogs go crazy when petted; others hardly notice. Keep the petting -- a little chest pat, or a chin scratch -- light for the most touch-sensitive, and a little more boisterous for the inattentive. Don't let the dog take petting as an excuse to go crazy -- lighten up on the pats, but don't correct him -- and let your eyes and voice do most of the praising.

-- Smile when you say that, pardner. Dogs understand many of our facial expressions because they use similar ones to communicate with each other. A smiling face is understood in both species, but if you really want to get through, make it as wide-open a smile as you can. You're trying to approximate that big panting grin a happy dog has. Panting is optional, but fun.

You'll probably find that you were doing most of it right. If you weren't, don't despair -- consider how hard it is sometimes to communicate with our OWN species! Practice praise often. Your dog won't mind, because to a dog, praise is payday and thank-you all rolled into one. Plus, it'll strengthen the bond between you.

PETS ON THE WEB

What would you do with your pets in a disaster? If you don't have a plan, a good place to start is with the American Red Cross page of disaster planning tips for animal-lovers (www.redcross.org/disaster/safety/pets.html), prepared in conjunction with the Humane Society of the United States. What's really impressive about this site is its thoroughness: Instead of limiting the discussion to dogs and cats, the Red Cross and HSUS offer suggestions for those with any animal companions -- birds, reptiles and small pets such as rabbits and hamsters.

PET TIP

How old is your cat in "people years"? Some suggest a guideline of one "cat year" equal to four "people years," but it really doesn't work out that neatly. You can see the problem from the beginning: A 1-year-old cat is nearly mature, but you can't say the same thing about a human 4-year-old.

A better way to figure it is to count the first year of a cat's life as comparable to the time a human reaches the early stages of adulthood -- the age of 15 or so. Like a human adolescent, a year-old cat looks fairly grown up and is capable of becoming a parent, but is lacking in emotional maturity.

The second year takes a cat to the equivalent of full adulthood in humans -- a 2-year-old cat is roughly equivalent to a person in the mid-20s. After that, the "one equals four" rule works pretty well. A 6-year-old cat is nicely middle-aged, as is a person in the early 40s.

Oh -- and forget the "one equals seven" rule for dogs. Figure the first couple of years for a dog as you would for a cat, and then add five "people years" for every "dog year" thereafter. Except that small dogs generally mature early and live longer, and giant breeds mature late and can have relatively short lifespans, which throws things off even more.

Confused? Remember what's most important when it comes to keeping those years adding up: working to prevent accidents by keeping your pets contained, as well as ensuring good health through proper nutrition, exercise and preventive veterinary care.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have a 10-week-old Lab/shepherd mix. She's a very calm puppy who has a few energetic bursts every day. I was wondering if you have any suggestions for helping us to get her to explore a little more. We don't mind her being calm, but we don't want her to be extremely scared or nervous of new things and people. Will getting another dog help? She is very interested in watching other dogs when we take her to the veterinarian or when they appear on TV. -- E.K., via the Internet

A: Assuming she has checked out OK healthwise, you've probably got a perfectly normal pup who is just a little on the shy side, a situation that may be temporarily made worse by the uncertainty of a new home and the brief natural periods of shyness all pups go through.

I wouldn't suggest another dog, but getting your pup into the company of other canines is a great idea. The best thing you could do for your pup is to enroll her in a puppy class. Usually offered for puppies starting as young as 3 to 4 months, these classes are about play and socialization, and set the stage for more serious training later. Check with your veterinarian, recreation district or pet-supply store for classes.

In your daily routine, be careful to avoid rewarding shy behavior by accident, such as soothing her when she's acting scared, which sends the wrong message.

Let your pup take her time in working through her shyness. Show her by your attitude that there's nothing to fear -- and praise her for being brave!

Q: We have a chow with a very thick coat, and she gets really hot in the summer. Is it a good idea to shave her down?

A: If you keep your dog well-groomed and ensure adequate shade and water -- or bring her inside -- there's no reason to shave off her coat. Long-haired breeds really aren't as bothered by hot weather as dogs with dark coats (such as Rottweilers or black Labradors) or short muzzles (such as pugs and boxers).

If your pet's coat isn't in the best of shape, though, you might consider a haircut after all. The most humane way of dealing with a badly matted coat in long-haired dogs or cats is to cut it short -- not a close shave, though -- and then work to keep the coat mat-free as it grows out again.

I'm guessing you have a chow at least in part because you like the look of the coat. Do your part to keep it taken care of, and you'll be able to enjoy seeing it year-round, without your pet being miserable.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Giori(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

For the oldest of my dogs, 12-year-old Andy, one of the problems of advancing age will turn out to be a benefit in the days to come. His hearing failing, Andy won't be bothered by the sound of fireworks.

As troubled as he has been by the racket over the years, his new "handicap" should make this Fourth of July one of the least troublesome I've ever spent. Until recently I've always had dogs who considered the noise a dreadful ordeal. Now with Andy comfortably oblivious and the two retrievers -- both from field-trial backgrounds -- completely unruffled, I'm finally looking forward to the holiday.

But I won't be letting my guard down.

The Fourth of July is the worst holiday for pets and those who love them. As the noise increases, animals get nervous, some to the point of snapping or running in fear. The days after the celebrations find some at the homes of good samaritans or at shelters, safe for a while and waiting for pickup. Others may never make it through the night, or may never be reunited with their families.

Emergency clinics are popular too, as panicky pets also end up hurt. My parents' dog once jumped through a sliding-glass door on the Fourth and needed nearly as many stitches as Betsy Ross put in her flag to survive.

While accidents do happen, you can do a lot to prevent them and make the holiday easier on both you and your pets.

First, make sure your pets are secure. Check your fences and gates. Are there loose or missing boards or enticing gaps at the baseline that could be opened up with a little digging? Fix them all. An anxious pet might be more determined about escape than usual. Better still, bring all your pets in and consider confining them to a small area like a crate or carrier -- especially if you're not staying home to keep an eye on things.

Always assume your pet may become lost and plan accordingly. Collars and tags are tickets home for lost pets; for insurance, add a microchip. Some people worry about the safety of collars on their cats, but one look at all the healthy, well-fed, obviously lost strays in any shelter will tell you that the asset of a collar and tag far outweighs any risks. A shelter worker I know says she's never seen a cat die from a snagged collar, but she's seen too many die because they didn't have any way to be reunited with their owners.

It's a good idea to keep current, clear pictures of your pets on hand in case they do slip away; you'll need them for fliers. If you lose your pet, put fliers everywhere you can and place a lost ad in the paper right away; don't waste precious time hoping your pet will wander home. Scan the neighborhood, watch "found" ads and check the shelters every other day in person. Don't give up too soon: Pets have been located weeks after their disappearance.

While you're planning for the worst, figure out where you'd go for a veterinary emergency. Does your veterinary hospital staff for around-the-clock emergency care? Will they arrange for on-call care? Find out what your veterinarian offers before you need to know, and be sure if you'll be heading to an emergency clinic, you know the phone number and the location.

Finally, if you've got a pet for whom the noise is terrifying, talk to your veterinarian about tranquilizers you can administer at home to take the edge off the worst of it for your pet.

PETS ON THE WEB

The dog-show world checks in at the InfoDog Web site (www.infodog.com), the online home of the nation's top show superintendent, MB-F Inc. At InfoDog you can find out not only the when and where for most shows, but also who'll be judging what and, afterward, who won. If you really want to plan ahead, the judging panel for Westminster Kennel Club (to be held February in New York's Madison Square Garden) is already posted. The site is a tad clunky, but there's lots to sniff through.

PET TIP

Is your dog so bad at nail-trims that you've simply given up? A power tool may be the answer. Rotary grinding tools such as the Dremel are great for keeping nails short, without the wrestling and crying that nail-cutters often provoke.

Use a rough sandpaper head and start slowly. Make sure your pet is comfortable with the whine of the machine, and then work up to a touch of single nail and then a little grinding. Depending on your pet, the learning curve may take just a couple sessions or a great deal longer. With patience and praise, though, you'll both find it easier to keep nails short and feet healthy.

If your dog's nails are out of control, have your veterinarian or groomer take them to a reasonable length to start with. And don't forget to wear a face mask and follow other safety precautions when using the tool --the dust will make you sneeze.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I think my cat has acne -- at least it looks like pimples and blackheads on his chin. What should I do about them? -- P.L., Albuquerque, N.M.

A: Yes, cats get acne too. Most classic acne cases occur in cats who are simply not good chin groomers. But there are many things that can contribute to the development and severity of feline acne and other conditions that mimic it. A few possibilities include parasites, fungus or allergies.

Your veterinarian can help you work out the exact problem. The area will likely need to be kept washed, but don't squeeze the blemishes (pretending, for a moment, that your cat would allow it anyway!). Creams and antibiotics may also be prescribed. If you're following your veterinarian's directions and the problem shows no sign of improvement within a couple weeks, discuss a referral to a dermatology specialist, or consider learning to live with the problem.

The good news is that feline acne is more of an aesthetic dilemma than a serious health concern. As long as the area doesn't become infected, your cat won't be bothered by the blemishes.

Q: We have a 5-month-old pug puppy, and she is adorable. There's just one problem: She has started to wake up at 4 a.m. When she wakes up this early, we give her some food and then go back to bed ourselves.

We've tried keeping her up later. We've tried letting her be, hoping she'll be quiet. Neither works. Is there any way we can help her learn that people need more than 5 1/2 hours of sleep a night? I am so tired most days I can hardly stay awake. -- A.R., the Internet

A. Your puppy has you well-trained: She makes noise and you feed her. Not only that, you've unwittingly reinforced the behavior by showing her that if she doesn't let up, you'll eventually give in.

You're going to have a harder time convincing her otherwise now, but unless you want to spend the rest of your lives getting up at 4 a.m. -- or earlier -- you're going to have to be tough.

Ignore her when she wakes up and starts making noise. Cover your heads with pillows and repeat silently to yourselves, "She's a 5-month-old puppy, and we won't let her buffalo us." Do not let her out, and above all do not feed her: You'll be rewarding the behavior you want ended, and that's what got you into trouble in the first place.

Let her carry on. It may well get worse before it gets better -- remember you've trained her to keep it up -- but it will indeed get better. Work to disassociate rewards of any kind with release from her crate: Don't make a fuss when you let her out and don't feed her right away. Take her outside calmly and praise her for doing her business. In a little while, feed her. She needs to learn to stay quietly in her crate and trust that you will see her needs are met.

I'm guessing she'll learn quickly, but if she doesn't you might also consider using a shot of water from a squirt bottle (don't let her see you shoot her), or gentle anti-bark products such as those that release a sharp tone or a spray of citronella.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Giori(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

While I know it's a little unusual, the fact remains: I met two of my three dogs for the first time at the baggage counter of my local airport. One had flown from East Coast to West and changed planes once en route. The other had come on a relatively short flight. Both were grown "career change" dogs ready for a loving new home -- mine -- and like the vast majority of animals transported by air, the trip was more nerve-wracking for me than dangerous for them.

The Air Transport Association estimates that more than a half a million dogs and cats are transported on commercial airlines each year, and 99 percent reach their destinations without incident. That's nice, but it's small consolation if your pet is in that remaining 1 percent.

If your pet is a bird, cat or small dog whose carrier will fit under an airline seat, you have the best option of all: Choose an airline that will allow you to bring your pet in his carrier into the passenger compartment as carry-on baggage.

The carry-on option is by far the best, but you can do a great deal to keep your pet safe even in the baggage hold -- the way most will travel -- by doing your homework, knowing your pet and being prepared to be politely pushy while your animal's in the care of an airline. Here are some things to remember:

-- Talk to the airline. Some carriers, especially the no-frills companies, don't take animals at all. Even those that do have limits on the number of animals on a flight because a set amount of air is available in the sealed cargo holds. You also need to know where and when your pet has to be presented, and what papers -- health certificate, and so on -- you need to bring.

-- Be sure your pet is in good health. Air travel isn't recommended for elderly or ill animals, and is likewise ill-advised for the pug-nosed breeds of dogs. These animals find breathing a little difficult under the best of circumstances, and the stress of airline travel may be more than they can handle.

-- Choose a carrier designed for air travel. The crate should be just big enough for your pet to stand up and turn around in. Check and double-check that all the bolts securing the halves of the carrier are in place and tightened.

While your pet cannot wear a collar in his crate -- it's not safe since it can get hung up -- put an ID tag on a piece of elastic around his neck. Be sure the crate has contact phone numbers for both ends of the journey prominently displayed.

-- Consider travel conditions. Don't ship your pet when air traffic is heaviest. Choose flights that are on the ground when the temperature is neither too hot nor too cold, not only at the departure airport but also at the connecting and arriving airports. In summer, a night flight is likely better, while the reverse is true in the winter.

-- Choose a direct flight; if that's not possible, try for a route with a short layover. Most animal fatalities occur on the ground, when pets are left in their crates on the hot tarmac or in stifling cargo holds.

Remember your pet's life relies on the attentiveness of airline personnel. Most of these employees are excellent and caring, but mistakes do happen. You should be prepared to pester airline personnel to confirm that your pet has been loaded and has made any connections.

Contrary to popular belief, it's generally better that your pet not be tranquilized before flying. The combination of high altitude and limited oxygen is a challenge your pet's body is better prepared to meet if he's not sedated. Still, your pet may be an exception. Talk to your veterinarian about this issue.

Pets on the Web: Sandra Loosemore is a serious frog fan, and her Froggy Page (http://frog.simplenet.com/froggy) is the delightful result. Bright, well-organized and jam-packed with information from the silly to the dead serious, the Froggy Page is a real treat. Don't miss the collection of frog sounds. Ribbit!

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Giori(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600