Biting, destructiveness, noisiness, house-soiling -- these problems can be more of a threat to a pet than a disease such as cancer. That's because too often behavior problems are eventually "solved" by getting rid of the pet, a solution that's often a dead end for the animal.

Even when people refuse to give up on their pets, behavior problems can mean a lifetime of misery. "Bad" pets may spend their lives locked up, locked out, or punished in ways that reflect the frustration and ignorance of their owners but do nothing to solve the problems. It's safe to say that neither side realizes the full benefits of the human-animal bond in such sad situations.

It doesn't have to be that way. While some behavior problems aren't fixable, most can be. To accomplish such change, though, you have to be prepared to put some time into changing the situation. Quick-fix, half-hearted efforts are doomed from the start.

The first rule of solving any behavioral problem is to make sure it's not a medical problem. The cat who won't use the litter box may be struggling with an infection that makes urination painful. A dog who snaps when his ears are touched may be suffering from chronic infections. Situations such as these need to be accurately diagnosed and completely treated with the help of your veterinarian before any retraining begins.

When your pet is healthy, your veterinarian can still be of use. While few veterinarians have the training or knowledge to help solve behavior problems, the numbers of those who do are growing -- and your vet may be one of them. Even those veterinarians who have no interest in behavior work can refer you to someone who can help. Loosely grouped under the term "behaviorist," these pet professionals can help fix what ails the relationship you have with your pet.

Consulting a behaviorist can save you time, money and aggravation. Time, because someone with experience in animal behavior can quickly determine the root of the problem, without the emotional baggage that a pet owner may bring to the situation. Money, because a consultation or two is a great deal cheaper than a new sofa. And aggravation? You understand that one if you're living with a problem pet.

Be aware, however, that animal behavior is an unregulated field -- anyone can call himself a behaviorist.

One of the best choices is a veterinarian who's board-certified by the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists. These professionals have gone through years of study in animal health and behavior and have done a residency in the field as well. A plus with this group: They have access to medications being used now to help correct behavior problems.

People with other academic degrees (such as psychology) and people who've picked up their knowledge in the field also make themselves available for advising on behavior. Some can be excellent, so don't let the lack of a DVM or any degrees at all deter you from getting help from someone who has studied in the "school of hard knocks" (or would that be the "school of bites and scratches"?)

Behaviorists are not "trainers" in the sense of offering group obedience classes to sharpen a pet's manners. Instead, they work one-on-one with you to solve a specific behavior problem. The form the consulting takes varies. Some behaviorists consult by phone; others take appointments with or without your pet, while still others make house calls. All these can work, depending on the problem and the pet.

If you're in a situation where your pet is causing problems in your home -- and certainly if you're thinking of getting rid of your pet -- don't delay: Ask your veterinarian for help, or call your closest college of veterinary medicine.

Pets on the Web: William Campbell is a pioneering behaviorist, and his Pet Behavior Resources Web site (www.Webtrail.com/petbehavior/index.html) is worthy of attention. The site includes a behavior case of the month and a quiz that lets you test your knowledge of animal behavior. Bird lovers should check out behaviorist Sally Blanchard's Pet Bird Report site (www.petbirdreport.com). The site serves to promote her excellent magazine of the same name, but there's plenty here to help the nonsubscriber.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Giori(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The youngest of my two retrievers is Heather, a dog so keen for swimming that she vibrates and whines at the sight of water when we drive over bridges. The older one, Benjamin, is only a tad less enthusiastic. Both will race pell-mell down a soggy bank and hurl themselves powerfully skyward, hitting the water with feet churning and hearts full of joy.

They are water dogs, happiest when wet -- unless there's soap in the water. When "water" means "bath," they're suddenly not interested. In this, they're not alone.

While bathing dogs is no one's idea of fun, it doesn't have to be miserable for you both if you know what you're doing and keep your attitude positive.

First, set yourself up with the proper equipment: soap, a bath mat for sure footing and a spray nozzle for thorough rinsing. Shampoo is a matter of personal preference, and with so many great products on the market, choosing just one is a chore. Don't use a human shampoo -- the pH is wrong for your pet -- and don't bother with a flea-control product. Any shampoo will wash fleas down the drain. (If you're fighting fleas, talk to your veterinarian about the latest generation of highly effective products.)

When you've got all your equipment in place -- don't forget towels! -- turn on the tap, but do it with the door closed. Dogs have a keen sense of hearing, too, and some are upset by the sound of bath water running; they know what it means. After the tub is full of warm water, let the water sit while you prepare the dog for the big plunge. It's important to comb or cut out tangles or mats before the bath, since water only makes them worse. Put a pinch of cotton just inside your dog's ears and a drop of mineral oil in each eye to help keep out the soap.

In working with dogs, I've found a good attitude can go a long way, but a bad one can make things worse. If your dog knows how much you hate bath time, how will he get a positive or at least tolerable opinion of the process? Keep it light and don't let up on the praise, even as you're gritting your teeth and dragging your pet into the tub.

Wet your dog thoroughly, then start shampooing by working a complete ring of lather around the neck, cutting off the escape route of any fleas. Work back from there, and don't forget to work some lather in between your dog's toes. Do the face and ears gently, taking care not to get any suds into your dog's eyes. Rinse, and follow with a conditioner if your dog has a long or silky coat: It'll make combing out easier and give the fur a nice sheen.

Rinse again, then lift the dog out and put a towel over yourself while he shakes. Your dog can get off more water by shaking than you can by toweling, so let him have at it, and use those towels to clean up the mess.

Keep your dog inside while he dries; you can use a blow-dryer to speed up the process, if you like. A clean dog is a joy to be with -- enjoy it while you can.

Regular brushing and combing will stretch the period between baths, but don't let it go too long. The old myth that dogs shouldn't be bathed more than twice a year must have come from folks with outside dogs -- who'd want such a dirty beastie on the bed? Bathe your pet as needed, and you'll both be happier for it.

Pets on the Web: OK, so horses aren't pets in the classical "sleeps on the bed" kind of way, but like many city-dwellers I've always loved and admired them. With the heightened interest in racing's Triple Crown this year, now seems a good time to visit the Thoroughbred Times Web site on this race series (http://206.112.8.160/thoroughbredtimes/tc98/default.asp). The best part of the well-designed site is the history area, with stories and pictures of each Triple Crown winner from Sir Barton to Affirmed. Great stuff.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Giori(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The idea that an adult dog is somehow "damaged goods" as an adoption prospect is strangely pervasive, especially among people for whom an older dog would be perfect -- novices with neither the time nor the experience to raise a puppy properly.

The older dog (anything from 1 year old and up) can slide easily into your life and will bond just as surely as the dog you took home as a puppy. And older dogs are everywhere, available from private homes, rescue groups and shelters. If you're interested in a purebred, a rescue group specializing in your breed can be the deal of the century -- these volunteer organizations typically offer their dogs for the cost of the shots and neutering that they've already taken care of.

While the older dog can be a marvelous find, you still have to be selective. (That's true of puppies, too -- there are lots of poorly bred and ill-socialized little time bombs around.) While expecting to work on some things as your new dog gets used to you is reasonable, you want to avoid those animals who have too many problems, especially if one of them is aggression. Here are some questions to ask about any dog you're considering adopting:

-- What do you know of this dog's history? You may be dealing with a shelter, a rescue volunteer, the dog's original owner or breeder, or a nice person who found a stray. If you discover the dog is well-bred and his parents have been certified free of congenital defects, all the better. If you find out nothing about him, though, because he was a stray, don't count him out. If he's healthy and friendly and otherwise fits your size, coat and activity criteria, he's a contender.

-- Why is this dog available for adoption? Dogs become available for lots of reasons, some as frivolous as a change in decor. "Losing our home," "divorce" and "death" are some of the better ones; "bit our daughter" obviously is not (even if you don't have children). Listen, too, for what isn't said: "He needs more exercise than we can give him" may mean, "He needs more exercise than anyone could possibly ever give him, and he eats furniture when he doesn't get it."

-- What behavior problems does this dog have? Many things are fixable and worth considering if you honestly believe you'll take the time to work with the dog. Remember, too, that some problems don't need anything more than a dose of common sense to fix. "Won't stay in the yard," for example, may be easily cured by a decent fence and neutering.

How is he with children? Other dogs? Cats? Even if you don't have children, you're going to run into some from time to time. The same is true with other dogs. You can successfully avoid cats if you don't have them, but make certain your prospective pet at least tolerates them well if you do. If there's no way to determine the dog's attitude toward children and other animals but he seems friendly, he may be OK.

Above all, know that giving an older dog a second chance is the right thing to do. You're helping with the problem of "surplus" pets, and you're getting a good deal and a good dog on top of it, if you choose wisely. You can't ask for anything better than that.

Pets on the Web: Your local shelter may have lists of breed-rescue volunteers in your community, but the Internet has become one of the best ways to find these groups. A good place to start is the American Kennel Club (www.akc.org), which lists rescue contacts for national breed clubs (although you have to use the site's search function to find it).

Two Web sites I really like are Golden Retrievers in Cyberspace (www.rahul.net/hredlus/golden.html) and Doberman Rescue of Sacramento (http://Sacramen.to/doberescue). The sites offer a nice contrast between a group with national scope and one with a regional one -- both working hard to save animals.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Giori(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600