The youngest of my two retrievers is Heather, a dog so keen for swimming that she vibrates and whines at the sight of water when we drive over bridges. The older one, Benjamin, is only a tad less enthusiastic. Both will race pell-mell down a soggy bank and hurl themselves powerfully skyward, hitting the water with feet churning and hearts full of joy.

They are water dogs, happiest when wet -- unless there's soap in the water. When "water" means "bath," they're suddenly not interested. In this, they're not alone.

While bathing dogs is no one's idea of fun, it doesn't have to be miserable for you both if you know what you're doing and keep your attitude positive.

First, set yourself up with the proper equipment: soap, a bath mat for sure footing and a spray nozzle for thorough rinsing. Shampoo is a matter of personal preference, and with so many great products on the market, choosing just one is a chore. Don't use a human shampoo -- the pH is wrong for your pet -- and don't bother with a flea-control product. Any shampoo will wash fleas down the drain. (If you're fighting fleas, talk to your veterinarian about the latest generation of highly effective products.)

When you've got all your equipment in place -- don't forget towels! -- turn on the tap, but do it with the door closed. Dogs have a keen sense of hearing, too, and some are upset by the sound of bath water running; they know what it means. After the tub is full of warm water, let the water sit while you prepare the dog for the big plunge. It's important to comb or cut out tangles or mats before the bath, since water only makes them worse. Put a pinch of cotton just inside your dog's ears and a drop of mineral oil in each eye to help keep out the soap.

In working with dogs, I've found a good attitude can go a long way, but a bad one can make things worse. If your dog knows how much you hate bath time, how will he get a positive or at least tolerable opinion of the process? Keep it light and don't let up on the praise, even as you're gritting your teeth and dragging your pet into the tub.

Wet your dog thoroughly, then start shampooing by working a complete ring of lather around the neck, cutting off the escape route of any fleas. Work back from there, and don't forget to work some lather in between your dog's toes. Do the face and ears gently, taking care not to get any suds into your dog's eyes. Rinse, and follow with a conditioner if your dog has a long or silky coat: It'll make combing out easier and give the fur a nice sheen.

Rinse again, then lift the dog out and put a towel over yourself while he shakes. Your dog can get off more water by shaking than you can by toweling, so let him have at it, and use those towels to clean up the mess.

Keep your dog inside while he dries; you can use a blow-dryer to speed up the process, if you like. A clean dog is a joy to be with -- enjoy it while you can.

Regular brushing and combing will stretch the period between baths, but don't let it go too long. The old myth that dogs shouldn't be bathed more than twice a year must have come from folks with outside dogs -- who'd want such a dirty beastie on the bed? Bathe your pet as needed, and you'll both be happier for it.

Pets on the Web: OK, so horses aren't pets in the classical "sleeps on the bed" kind of way, but like many city-dwellers I've always loved and admired them. With the heightened interest in racing's Triple Crown this year, now seems a good time to visit the Thoroughbred Times Web site on this race series (http://206.112.8.160/thoroughbredtimes/tc98/default.asp). The best part of the well-designed site is the history area, with stories and pictures of each Triple Crown winner from Sir Barton to Affirmed. Great stuff.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Giori(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The idea that an adult dog is somehow "damaged goods" as an adoption prospect is strangely pervasive, especially among people for whom an older dog would be perfect -- novices with neither the time nor the experience to raise a puppy properly.

The older dog (anything from 1 year old and up) can slide easily into your life and will bond just as surely as the dog you took home as a puppy. And older dogs are everywhere, available from private homes, rescue groups and shelters. If you're interested in a purebred, a rescue group specializing in your breed can be the deal of the century -- these volunteer organizations typically offer their dogs for the cost of the shots and neutering that they've already taken care of.

While the older dog can be a marvelous find, you still have to be selective. (That's true of puppies, too -- there are lots of poorly bred and ill-socialized little time bombs around.) While expecting to work on some things as your new dog gets used to you is reasonable, you want to avoid those animals who have too many problems, especially if one of them is aggression. Here are some questions to ask about any dog you're considering adopting:

-- What do you know of this dog's history? You may be dealing with a shelter, a rescue volunteer, the dog's original owner or breeder, or a nice person who found a stray. If you discover the dog is well-bred and his parents have been certified free of congenital defects, all the better. If you find out nothing about him, though, because he was a stray, don't count him out. If he's healthy and friendly and otherwise fits your size, coat and activity criteria, he's a contender.

-- Why is this dog available for adoption? Dogs become available for lots of reasons, some as frivolous as a change in decor. "Losing our home," "divorce" and "death" are some of the better ones; "bit our daughter" obviously is not (even if you don't have children). Listen, too, for what isn't said: "He needs more exercise than we can give him" may mean, "He needs more exercise than anyone could possibly ever give him, and he eats furniture when he doesn't get it."

-- What behavior problems does this dog have? Many things are fixable and worth considering if you honestly believe you'll take the time to work with the dog. Remember, too, that some problems don't need anything more than a dose of common sense to fix. "Won't stay in the yard," for example, may be easily cured by a decent fence and neutering.

How is he with children? Other dogs? Cats? Even if you don't have children, you're going to run into some from time to time. The same is true with other dogs. You can successfully avoid cats if you don't have them, but make certain your prospective pet at least tolerates them well if you do. If there's no way to determine the dog's attitude toward children and other animals but he seems friendly, he may be OK.

Above all, know that giving an older dog a second chance is the right thing to do. You're helping with the problem of "surplus" pets, and you're getting a good deal and a good dog on top of it, if you choose wisely. You can't ask for anything better than that.

Pets on the Web: Your local shelter may have lists of breed-rescue volunteers in your community, but the Internet has become one of the best ways to find these groups. A good place to start is the American Kennel Club (www.akc.org), which lists rescue contacts for national breed clubs (although you have to use the site's search function to find it).

Two Web sites I really like are Golden Retrievers in Cyberspace (www.rahul.net/hredlus/golden.html) and Doberman Rescue of Sacramento (http://Sacramen.to/doberescue). The sites offer a nice contrast between a group with national scope and one with a regional one -- both working hard to save animals.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Giori(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Call them the Finger Crossers, if you will -- those folks who know if their dogs get loose they'll get them back only when conditions are absolutely right: if there isn't another dog to play with, a squirrel to chase or a scent to follow. Or if they're fast or lucky enough to corner them.

If you're one of these dog owners, you may well be in the majority. While "Come" is one of the most basic of dog commands, it's probably the one dogs obey the least. While it's true some dogs are naturally more inclined to come when called than others, obedience is not an impossibility for any dog.

Figuring out why your pet won't mind is the first step toward fixing the problem.

Maybe your dog is afraid to come to you. If you're one of those people who have to chase your dog, you may also be someone who isn't very happy when you've finally caught up with him. Screaming at your dog for running away or punishing your pet when you collar him at last is a good way of making sure the next time he gets loose he'll run farther, faster. Wouldn't you?

Being reunited with you should be a positive experience. Never, ever punish a dog for coming to you or for failing to come.

If you're not punishing him, perhaps your dog really doesn't understand what you want. Few people practice the "Come" command enough -- or at all. You probably use "Sit" a half-dozen times a day, just around the house, but you probably don't use "Come" in the house when you want your dog near you. Maybe all you have to do is open the refrigerator. If that's the case, your dog doesn't understand the relationship between the command and the action of coming to you. He just knows if he's sitting in the right place at the right time, you might drop some food.

Or maybe your dog doesn't see why he should listen to you. You may have a dog who believes that what you want is only one of the factors that go into his deciding what he's going to do. A dog who knows what's expected of him and respects you is going to mind you. A dog who thinks you're a dope who couldn't catch a bus is going to treat you like the fool he thinks you are.

If the problems are training and respect, you can fix them both together. Train your dog, work with your dog, and the respect will follow. Teach your dog the "Come" command in increments, on a standard 6-foot leash, on progressively longer and lighter lines, and with lots of praise. Practice, not just in formal sessions but in everyday life. And sharpen up all your dog's manners, because they all help reinforce your role as leader. Elicit the help of a trainer if you just don't seem to be getting anywhere.

Should your untrained dog get loose, there are a couple of tricks you can use to catch him. Try to sweet-talk him in with a kneeling, open-arms stance, or run away from him, enticing him to follow -- the chase instinct is very strong in most dogs. Another strategy is to use a command he knows well, like "Sit." Once he's planted, you can take him by the collar. (Don't forget to praise for the sit!)

Remember, though, a loose-dog situation is not about obedience -- it's about keeping your dog from becoming road-pizza. If you're one of those Finger Crossers, keep him on leash for his own safety and start training now.

Pets on the Web: The parakeet, or budgie, is one of the world's most popular pet birds, a wonderful starter pet for a novice or child who's still interesting enough for the more experienced bird-keeper. The "All About Budgerigars" Web site (www2.upatsix.com/abs/allabout.htm) is a good source of information for both the first-time 'keet keeper and the experienced breeder or show competitor. You'll find many gems among the articles and dozens of essential links to other sites. The only criticism: This site could use a lot more pictures, especially of some of the more unusual colors or varieties.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Giori(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600