pets

Being Prepared Can Prevent Disaster When Your Pet Is Lost

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | March 8th, 1998

As disasters go, this one hardly rates a mention. The howling winds of our winter storms have rocked the twin pines in my yard, have made the dogs soggy, the lawn boggy, and filled my yard with pieces of what I uncharitably hope came from someone else's roof. But in the end, it was a 4-inch piece of dog-eared fence board that caused me the most grief.

It's hammered in tightly now, but when I saw it resting on the driveway as I drove up one day my heart danced a two-step in my chest. Could a dog have slipped through the gap? Thankfully no, but that one missing board gave me good reason to be grateful that if the whole fence had blown down and the dogs had been foolish enough to get off the front-room couch and explore the county, I had a decent chance of getting them back.

I am prepared, and you should be, too.

A pet can become missing at any time. I've had readers tell me enough stories to know it's true. Like the indoor cat who fell out a first story window when the screen she was leaning on gave way. Or the dogs who slipped away after the contractor, youngest daughter, next-door neighbor or father-in-law didn't latch the gate carefully. And then of course there are natural disasters -- little ones like blown-down fences and big ones like floods, hurricanes and earthquakes.

Figure your pet will one day be lost, and you'll always be ready.

Since your pet can't speak, the first thing you need is ID to speak for him. The basics: collar and ID tag. Got them already? Good. Now check to be sure the information is current. I got caught in this trap a short while ago when ordering a tag for the new dog, Heather. I checked what I had on the other two dogs' collars and realized there was a phone number for a place I'd left months ago. Instead of one tag, I ordered three.

Even if the information on your pet's tag is current, make sure it's readable. Some plastic tags wear down, and the grooves of metal ones seem to get filled with grime. If you can't read it, or clean it enough to make it readable, order a new tag. They're the cheapest insurance you'll ever buy.

Important as they are, collars and tags should be supplemented by permanent ID such as a microchip implants. Most shelters and many veterinarians have scanners that pick the numbers off the tiny devices, which are inserted in the loose skin between the shoulder blades on dogs and cats. For years companies produced equipment that couldn't read any chips except their own, but now scanners will pick up the presence of any chip. After your pet is chipped, register the number so people can find you if they find your pet; the person who chips your pet should have sign-up information.

One more step in your lost-pet preparations: Take your camera out and shoot a whole roll of pictures of your pet -- then ask for double prints. You'll need these to put on fliers if your pet ever becomes lost.

Should the worst happen, don't waste time hoping your pet will wander home. Put fliers everywhere you can and place a "lost" ad in the newspaper. Scan the neighborhood, watch "found" ads, and check the shelters every other day in person (phone calls don't cut it because the staff is just too busy to know every pet in the place). Don't give up too soon; pets have been found weeks after their disappearance. If your pet left outfitted for the worst, chances are you'll get him back.

If you're lucky, you'll never have to face the sorrow of having your pet go missing. But if you do, knowing you've done everything you can to keep your pet safe is the only thing that will help you and your pet. In this game, you make your own luck.

Pets on the Web: Looking for the nearest college of veterinary medicine? Try the Veterinary Medicine Educational Network, or VetNet (http://www.vetnet.ucdavis.edu/vetnet.html). The site offers a clickable map of all the veterinary colleges in the United States and Canada, and links to the home pages of each school.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Giori(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Monthly Exam Is Good for Your Cat's Health

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | March 1st, 1998

The signs of illness in cats can be particularly subtle, so much so that owners often don't realize their cats are sick until they're REALLY sick -- and sometimes that's too late.

To keep your cat healthy, you must be able to recognize what is normal for your pet so you can tell when something isn't right. Changes in appetite, drinking habits, litter-box routines, grooming, and even a change in the sound of your cat's voice can all mean trouble -- and should mean a trip to the veterinarian.

Physical changes are important, too. A monthly hands-on examination will help you become aware of changes that could signify something serious.

Before starting a hands-on exam, though, stand back and study your pet for a few minutes. Consider his posture, activity level, gait, coat and overall appearance for an impression of good health. Trouble signs include exposed skin, thin or dry coat, ribs showing, sluggishness, limping, or just lack of "spring" in his step.

Pick up your cat and head for the bathroom scale. Note your weight with your cat, then yours alone. The difference is your cat's weight, and it should be between 8 and 10 pounds. Your cat is normal if a comfortable pad of fat lies over his ribs but you can still feel the ribs if you press your hands in gently. A difference of a pound up or down is fine over the course of a few months; anything more or rapid weight loss is reason for concern.

Now for the hands-on part. Here's what to look for:

-- Nose. Your cat's nose should be moist and clean, not dry, scabbed or cracked. There should be no discharge or bleeding.

-- Eyes. Probably the most beautiful part of any cat, eyes should bright, moist and clear, centered between the eyelids, with the pupils of equal size. Eyes that are dull or sunken, that appear dry or have thick discharge are not right. Take your cat into a darkened room, then quickly turn on a light. The pupils should contract quickly, with no difference between them.

-- Ears. The skin should be clean, dry, smooth and without wounds. The ear canal should be clean and almost odor-free. Crust, moisture, discharge or strong odor in the ear canal is bad news, as is pain at the touch or an unusual way of holding the head or ears.

-- The mouth. Your cat's teeth should be clean and white, with gums that are uniformly pink. Press on your pet's gum with your finger or thumb and release quickly. The color will be white but should return to the same color as the surrounding tissue within one or two seconds, a sign your cat's circulatory system is working well. Problem signs here include loose or missing teeth, tartar, or gums that are red, pale, inflamed or sore in appearance.

-- Breathing. It should be hard to hear your cat breathe, and his chest wall should move easily in and out as he does. Most of the act of breathing should be performed by the chest wall; the stomach should barely move. "Crackles" or wheezes indicate a problem, as does labored or rapid breathing.

-- The abdomen. Start just behind the ribs and gently press your hands into the abdomen. Proceed toward the rear of your pet, passing your hands gently over the abdomen. Some bumps should be there -- they're internal organs, such as the kidneys. You should find no other lumps, bumps or masses, though, and your pet should feel no discomfort as you press gently into him.

-- Hydration. Check to ensure your cat has enough fluids by pulling the skin just behind his shoulder blades into a tent and then releasing quickly. Your pet's skin should snap immediately back into position. Another good sign of hydration is that the gums just above the teeth are moist when touched.

Chances are your cat will check out fine, in which case your exam should turn into a long, loving petting session. If anything came up that worries you, see your veterinarian to ensure your cat's good health.

Pets on the Web: The incomparable Cat Fanciers Web site (www.fanciers.com) should be the first stop for any cat-lover in cyberspace. You could explore their medical page for days and still not take in all of it. Great articles, great links.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Giori(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Toy Dogs Yield Large Rewards

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | February 22nd, 1998

Drop-kick dogs. Yap-yaps. Lap sharks. Dust mops. Fur balls. Mutants. Darlene Arden has heard all the nasty terms used to describe the tiniest of canines, the toys, and doesn't understand the problem so many people have with them.

"They're the Rodney Dangerfield of the dog world," she says. "They don't get much respect. People say about toy dogs, 'Why don't you get a REAL dog?' They ARE real dogs, believe me."

If anyone can argue the case for these little wonders, it's Arden. A lifelong fancier of small dogs and an award-winning writer on animals for nearly two decades, she has put her heart into a thoroughly researched and entertaining new book "The Irrepressible Toy Dog" ($17.95; Howell Book House/Macmillan General Reference). It's a must-read for anyone who lives with a small dog or is thinking of doing so.

The latter group is getting bigger, says Arden, another in a seemingly endless string of cultural phenomena associated with the aging of the baby boomers.

"Toy dogs are the American Kennel Club's fastest-growing group," said Arden, "and it's not that hard to see why. We have an urbanized society, an aging society. Toy dogs are easier to travel with and easier to exercise. It's easier to take a 5- or 20-pound dog to the veterinarian."

Despite all the advantages, people still have problems with these breeds. Arden says the problem is that few owners realize small dogs need training and structure just as large dogs do. Because the dogs are small, it's easy to consider their behavior problems as annoyances that can be lived with, however grudgingly.

"These are very smart breeds," said Arden. "They're up in your face, in your lap, and they learn to read you very quickly. They can be tiny terrorists, because they learn they can get what they want by being pushy. They look so cute and innocent, you never realize you're being suckered."

The top behavior problems in small dogs is house-training, mostly because it's easy to be inconsistent when working on the problem. Like the dogs themselves, it's not that big a mess to cope with. "People think toys can't be housebroken," said Arden. "I disagree. While it's true that little dogs find it more comfortable to eliminate in the house than to go outside -- especially since they're sensitive to the cold -- they can be trained.

"You have to be consistent, and that's usually the problem. Owners are generally not as concerned with the housebreaking lapses from a toy breed as they would be if they had an Irish Wolfhound."

It's worth the effort to train even the smallest dog, notes the author, because these are the longest-lived breeds -- 12 to 15 years as an average, with some reaching the age of 20. "Train them gently," said Arden, "and they'll respond very well."

But will those who make fun of small dogs ever come around? Arden says she has been surprised how people who never liked little dogs become thoroughly besotted with them once they own one. She likes to tell the story of one man, 6-foot-4 and plenty tough, who loves the Yorkie he and his wife have every bit as much as if the dog were a "guy breed," such as a Labrador retriever or a Rottweiler.

"He likes to say, 'It takes a big man to walk a little dog,'" she said, laughing.

Pets on the Web: A good place to start researching the toy breeds is the American Kennel Club's Web site (www.akc.org). The AKC has an area devoted to each of its seven breed groups (sporting, hound, working, terrier, nonsporting, herding and toy) with information and pictures of each breed within the group. The toy-group page notes that although toy breeds can be "tough as nails ... it's still easier to control a 10-pound dog than it is one 10 times that size." The AKC site also has links to Web sites of national breed clubs as well as information on how to choose a breeder or find a rescue group; you can also order book and pamphlets online, as well as a nifty jigsaw puzzle. This site has always been good and keeps getting better.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Giori(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

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