Open your wallet: It's time for a pet-friendly pop quiz.

Driver's license, credit cards, pictures, money, an appointment card from your dentist, a dry-cleaning receipt, a frequent buyer card or two -- do you know what's missing?

Mary Randolph does.

You should have something in your wallet detailing who's to care for your pets if you suddenly cannot, says the attorney and author of "Dog Law" (Nolo Press; $14.95), a modestly priced book now in its third revision and still one of the best additions to any pet-lover's library.

"It's like a Medic Alert card," she says of the importance of having information on your pets in your wallet at all times. "It should say: 'Attention: I have these animals at home. Please call this person to take care of them.'"

Randolph points out that if you were in an accident or became suddenly and seriously ill, no one may even realize you have pets. "Your pets may be alone for who knows how long," she says. "Maybe your neighbors don't know where you are, maybe your family lives far away. And if you should die and you haven't lined up care, your pets may end up in the shelter after they're found."

Which brings up the point of whose name should be in your wallet. How do you set up care for your pets, especially after you're gone?

"What I tell people is not to worry so much about the legal part but instead concentrate on the practical part," says Randolph. "Think of the person, not the animal. Prepare that person to care for your pet, let them know who your veterinarian is, what your animals eat, what kind of medicines they take. Write it all down beforehand and go over it. You do not want this to be a surprise."

Many people think they can leave money to their pets, but Randolph says the law really offers very little protection for animals after their owners die. "Animals can't own property," she says, explaining that in the eyes of the law animals are little more than property themselves. "A few states allow honorary trusts for pets, and allow you to appoint a trustee who will be in charge of the money.

"The problem with that is that it might give the person a false sense of security, even though a dog can't go to court to enforce the trust."

Trust of another variety is the key. "Pick the person, leave them the animals and enough money to provide for care, and then trust them to take care of your animals."

And what if you haven't anyone who can take on this important job for you? Check with local humane society, says Randolph.

"Shelters are trying to address this real need." The San Francisco SPCA, she says, has a policy that no member's pet will lack for a home after an owner dies. A couple of veterinary schools -- the one at Purdue among them -- offer lifelong care, although the suggested $25,000 donation puts the program out of reach for many.

Randolph finds the changes encouraging, and believes they're indicative of a more pet-friendly legal environment. "There used to be only one or two states that allowed trusts, and now there are more. It shows some concern: Someone had to lobby for these bills to go through.

"As the population ages, this is a more common concern for people," she adds.

Providing for pets in case of illness, accident or death is just one small part of this important book, which also covers animal-control regulations, landlord-tenant law, wrongful death of a pet, cruelty statutes, veterinary malpractice, and problems with other people's dogs, such as noise and aggression. Although it focuses on dogs, much of the information applies to other animals as well.

CYBERLINKS: The Nolo Press Web site (http://www.nolo.com) offers a taste of what's in "Dog Law," with articles written by Mary Randolph that cover many aspects of the law as it applies to animals. If you're thinking of getting a puppy, "When a Dog Is a Lemon" is a must-read, covering your legal recourse if you end up with a sick dog and offering solid advice on how to avoid problems in the first place.

Gina Spadafori, the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Giori(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

When you consider that four of the nation's top five breeds in recent years have been big dogs, it's no surprise that there are a lot of dog owners out there with sore arms and shoulders from trying to control their great beasties.

And no surprise, either, that more and more of these dogs -- Labs and Rottweilers, German shepherds and golden retrievers, more than 350,000 registered with the American Kennel Club every year -- have been spotted with strange-looking contraptions around their necks or muzzles, as these same owners try to shift the balance of power to their side.

While most owners will still opt for the more familiar buckled or snap-together collar or slip collar -- the latter more commonly known as a "choke" collar -- an increasing number are choosing pinch collars or head halters.

Of the two, the pinch collar, also called a prong collar, is probably the more controversial, based mostly on its appearance. The collar is made of metal links, with blunt prongs evenly spaced along its length. With a pull of the leash, the collar tightens, pressing the prongs into the dog's skin and getting his attention in a hurry.

There's no doubt the collar is effective when used correctly, especially on dogs such as Rotties, or others with well-muscled necks. But because of its appearance, the pinch collar often draws nasty looks and comments on its apparent cruelty.

This is unfortunate. For despite its looks, the pinch collar can be less cruel than the more popular slip collar in the hands of people who don't know how to use the latter. That's because a properly fitted pinch collar cannot be tightened beyond the point of pushing the prongs against the skin, unlike the slip collar, which has no limits -- the harder you or the dog pulls, the tighter it gets.

While trainers know the correct way to use the slip collar is to snap quickly and release, a trip to any public park will prove that most dog owners never grasp this concept. Their leashes are kept taut behind pulling dogs, and the collars are tight, so much so that their dogs are constantly gasping for air.

In time, both owner and dog come to believe this is the normal way of walking, and with the most powerful dogs, the slip collar loses almost all its effectiveness as a tool for training and control.

The pinch collar is easier to put on properly, will not tighten beyond a predetermined point and allows control of even the strongest dog. All of which makes it a good choice for some dogs and some owners, as well as a more humane choice than an incorrectly used slip collar. (Although both are inappropriate, and unsafe, as an everyday collar or a collar for puppies. Use a buckled or snap-together collar instead.)

The other choice for large dogs -- a head halter -- also has its image problems, because it looks to many people like a muzzle. When someone sees a 90-pound German shepherd wearing what looks like a muzzle, all the discussion in the world isn't likely to convince that person the dog's not a vicious killer. This is certainly not good public relations for any breed.

But, again, appearance can be deceiving. Head halters are touted as the humane alternative to pinch or choke collars, and rightfully so. They work on the principle of "where the head goes, the body follows" and may make handling a large dog possible for small adults or even children.

Is a pinch collar or head halter -- or for that matter, the more commonplace slip or buckle collar -- right for your out-of-control dog? The best way to find out is to talk to a trainer or behaviorist, who can not only help you make the right choice but also show you the right way to use what you buy and train your dog to make outings the pleasant experience they should be.

CYBERLINKS: When veterinarian James Alfred Wight died in 1995, he left a legacy cherished by animal-lovers everywhere -- his books and stories, written under his pen name, James Herriott. Heather Mazzaccaro's page, http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Acropolis/3907, is a loving tribute, a must-see for any Herriott fan. Any even greater tribute to Wight may be Mazzaccaro herself -- inspired by his stories, she's studying to be a veterinarian.

Gina Spadafori, the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Giori(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Many dogs do it, although their owners are too disgusted to admit it, and sometimes too embarrassed to talk about it even with their veterinarians.

Dog experts don't seem able to speak plainly about the problem, either. They call it "coprophagia."

No matter what it's called, though, trainers, behaviorists and veterinarians agree that stool-eating is a common problem. And who wants a doggy kiss from a pet with this habit?

Why do dogs indulge in such revolting behavior? Some experts say stool-eating is related to a mother dog's instinct for "cleaning up the nest" -- licking her puppies to stimulate elimination and eating everything that results. It's an important job, since the tiny, blind puppies aren't capable of eliminating their own waste.

Others point to nutritional needs, noting that wolves and wild dogs eat stools -- both their own and those of herbivores -- for the nutrients they contain. (This helps to explain why dogs seem especially attracted to cat stools, which contain a high level of protein.) Still others say dogs eat stools because they like to, in the same way that they enjoy any number of unspeakable activities, such as sniffing in private places and rolling in dead fish. Boredom may play a role, too, for few dogs get all the attention and especially the exercise they need.

Prevention is the best way to deal with stool-eaters, although there are a few nutritional or behavioral aids that may be worth a try.

First, make sure your dog is in good health, eating a high-quality food. Premium foods can noticeably decrease stool volume, which certainly helps.

Once you're sure your pet is healthy and eating well, you can ask your veterinarian about one of the handful of food additives that may help the animal to produce stools that are less appealing. The same aversion theory is behind the advice about "booby-trapping" stools with something a dog would find disgusting, like Tabasco sauce. Finally, some trainers suggest watching your dog closely and shaking a can filled with pennies when he sniffs a pile.

While each of these strategies may help with any particular dog, there's no evidence that they will reform all or even most stool-eaters. And if you're going to spend your days booby-trapping piles, you might as well grab a scoop and clean them up.

In fact, the most reliable method of coping with chronic stool-eaters is to avoid the source of temptation. If there's nothing disgusting to eat, the dog won't be eating it. It's that simple.

When you let your dog out, clean up after him immediately. If you have cats, make sure the litter box is inaccessible to your dog, and keep it clean, too. Some people use a hooded litter box, but some cats won't tolerate them well. If your dog is bigger than your cat, you can solve the problem by putting a cat-sized flap in the door to the room with the litter box. Your cat can come and go as he pleases, but the dog won't be able to munch. For smaller dogs, consider a baby-gate or a high spot for the box. Both will be present no access problems for your cat, but will keep your dog away from temptation.

In public, the leash is your only defense, and will remain so until people start getting more considerate about picking up after their dogs. Keep your dog on leash, and if he's attracted to anything you'd rather him not be eating -- and in a public park, the possibilities for this are endless -- tell him "no," then give him a tug and move on.

If you have kiss-happy dogs as I do, you'll have to stay on top of this problem religiously, so you won't have to be wondering where your dog's mouth has been!

CYBERLINKS: The Cat Fanciers home page (http://www.fanciers.com) is a one-stop Web shop for nearly all the information on cats that exists on the Internet. It's a phenomenal resource, especially for anyone who lives with or is thinking about getting a pedigreed cat. The Fanciers breed pages (www.fanciers.com/breeds.html) is especially helpful, offering solid information both on rare breeds and common ones.

Gina Spadafori, the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Giori(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600