When you consider that four of the nation's top five breeds in recent years have been big dogs, it's no surprise that there are a lot of dog owners out there with sore arms and shoulders from trying to control their great beasties.

And no surprise, either, that more and more of these dogs -- Labs and Rottweilers, German shepherds and golden retrievers, more than 350,000 registered with the American Kennel Club every year -- have been spotted with strange-looking contraptions around their necks or muzzles, as these same owners try to shift the balance of power to their side.

While most owners will still opt for the more familiar buckled or snap-together collar or slip collar -- the latter more commonly known as a "choke" collar -- an increasing number are choosing pinch collars or head halters.

Of the two, the pinch collar, also called a prong collar, is probably the more controversial, based mostly on its appearance. The collar is made of metal links, with blunt prongs evenly spaced along its length. With a pull of the leash, the collar tightens, pressing the prongs into the dog's skin and getting his attention in a hurry.

There's no doubt the collar is effective when used correctly, especially on dogs such as Rotties, or others with well-muscled necks. But because of its appearance, the pinch collar often draws nasty looks and comments on its apparent cruelty.

This is unfortunate. For despite its looks, the pinch collar can be less cruel than the more popular slip collar in the hands of people who don't know how to use the latter. That's because a properly fitted pinch collar cannot be tightened beyond the point of pushing the prongs against the skin, unlike the slip collar, which has no limits -- the harder you or the dog pulls, the tighter it gets.

While trainers know the correct way to use the slip collar is to snap quickly and release, a trip to any public park will prove that most dog owners never grasp this concept. Their leashes are kept taut behind pulling dogs, and the collars are tight, so much so that their dogs are constantly gasping for air.

In time, both owner and dog come to believe this is the normal way of walking, and with the most powerful dogs, the slip collar loses almost all its effectiveness as a tool for training and control.

The pinch collar is easier to put on properly, will not tighten beyond a predetermined point and allows control of even the strongest dog. All of which makes it a good choice for some dogs and some owners, as well as a more humane choice than an incorrectly used slip collar. (Although both are inappropriate, and unsafe, as an everyday collar or a collar for puppies. Use a buckled or snap-together collar instead.)

The other choice for large dogs -- a head halter -- also has its image problems, because it looks to many people like a muzzle. When someone sees a 90-pound German shepherd wearing what looks like a muzzle, all the discussion in the world isn't likely to convince that person the dog's not a vicious killer. This is certainly not good public relations for any breed.

But, again, appearance can be deceiving. Head halters are touted as the humane alternative to pinch or choke collars, and rightfully so. They work on the principle of "where the head goes, the body follows" and may make handling a large dog possible for small adults or even children.

Is a pinch collar or head halter -- or for that matter, the more commonplace slip or buckle collar -- right for your out-of-control dog? The best way to find out is to talk to a trainer or behaviorist, who can not only help you make the right choice but also show you the right way to use what you buy and train your dog to make outings the pleasant experience they should be.

CYBERLINKS: When veterinarian James Alfred Wight died in 1995, he left a legacy cherished by animal-lovers everywhere -- his books and stories, written under his pen name, James Herriott. Heather Mazzaccaro's page, http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Acropolis/3907, is a loving tribute, a must-see for any Herriott fan. Any even greater tribute to Wight may be Mazzaccaro herself -- inspired by his stories, she's studying to be a veterinarian.

Gina Spadafori, the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Giori(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Many dogs do it, although their owners are too disgusted to admit it, and sometimes too embarrassed to talk about it even with their veterinarians.

Dog experts don't seem able to speak plainly about the problem, either. They call it "coprophagia."

No matter what it's called, though, trainers, behaviorists and veterinarians agree that stool-eating is a common problem. And who wants a doggy kiss from a pet with this habit?

Why do dogs indulge in such revolting behavior? Some experts say stool-eating is related to a mother dog's instinct for "cleaning up the nest" -- licking her puppies to stimulate elimination and eating everything that results. It's an important job, since the tiny, blind puppies aren't capable of eliminating their own waste.

Others point to nutritional needs, noting that wolves and wild dogs eat stools -- both their own and those of herbivores -- for the nutrients they contain. (This helps to explain why dogs seem especially attracted to cat stools, which contain a high level of protein.) Still others say dogs eat stools because they like to, in the same way that they enjoy any number of unspeakable activities, such as sniffing in private places and rolling in dead fish. Boredom may play a role, too, for few dogs get all the attention and especially the exercise they need.

Prevention is the best way to deal with stool-eaters, although there are a few nutritional or behavioral aids that may be worth a try.

First, make sure your dog is in good health, eating a high-quality food. Premium foods can noticeably decrease stool volume, which certainly helps.

Once you're sure your pet is healthy and eating well, you can ask your veterinarian about one of the handful of food additives that may help the animal to produce stools that are less appealing. The same aversion theory is behind the advice about "booby-trapping" stools with something a dog would find disgusting, like Tabasco sauce. Finally, some trainers suggest watching your dog closely and shaking a can filled with pennies when he sniffs a pile.

While each of these strategies may help with any particular dog, there's no evidence that they will reform all or even most stool-eaters. And if you're going to spend your days booby-trapping piles, you might as well grab a scoop and clean them up.

In fact, the most reliable method of coping with chronic stool-eaters is to avoid the source of temptation. If there's nothing disgusting to eat, the dog won't be eating it. It's that simple.

When you let your dog out, clean up after him immediately. If you have cats, make sure the litter box is inaccessible to your dog, and keep it clean, too. Some people use a hooded litter box, but some cats won't tolerate them well. If your dog is bigger than your cat, you can solve the problem by putting a cat-sized flap in the door to the room with the litter box. Your cat can come and go as he pleases, but the dog won't be able to munch. For smaller dogs, consider a baby-gate or a high spot for the box. Both will be present no access problems for your cat, but will keep your dog away from temptation.

In public, the leash is your only defense, and will remain so until people start getting more considerate about picking up after their dogs. Keep your dog on leash, and if he's attracted to anything you'd rather him not be eating -- and in a public park, the possibilities for this are endless -- tell him "no," then give him a tug and move on.

If you have kiss-happy dogs as I do, you'll have to stay on top of this problem religiously, so you won't have to be wondering where your dog's mouth has been!

CYBERLINKS: The Cat Fanciers home page (http://www.fanciers.com) is a one-stop Web shop for nearly all the information on cats that exists on the Internet. It's a phenomenal resource, especially for anyone who lives with or is thinking about getting a pedigreed cat. The Fanciers breed pages (www.fanciers.com/breeds.html) is especially helpful, offering solid information both on rare breeds and common ones.

Gina Spadafori, the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Giori(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

A dark smudge runs the length of the center hallway in my house, a streak that just happens to coincide with the shoulder height of the retriever, Benjamin. In another room, a matching stain closer to the baseboard gives mute testimony to the fact that the older dog, Andy, loves to sleep against the wall in that corner.

The living-room carpet looks grubby, with a stain that's probably not coming out, where some animal -- one of mine or a guest, I don't remember anymore -- decided to wipe his muzzle. During the rainy season, the air hangs heavy with the fragrance of wet dog. Given the retriever's propensity for seeking out any available body of water, this special perfume wafts through the house even in the dry months sometimes.

Were any glossy home magazine to show an interest in my home, it would surely be for the "before" pictures, not the "after." House Beautiful, it's not.

Even though I wouldn't trade the nose-prints on my front window for an immaculate mansion without animals, I do try to keep the mess to a minimum. Aside from the stained area rug, the floors are hardwoods, tile and linoleum. I own a powerful vacuum, and painting is on the agenda for fall.

It is possible to have a clean, odor-free home and a pet at the same time. I know people who do, although I also know they work harder at it than I do. For the rest of us, here are a few suggestions to make life with a pet cleaner and easier:

-- Choose flooring carefully. Tile, linoleum and hardwoods are easiest to keep clean, but if you must have wall-to-wall carpeting, choose some that is synthetic and stain-resistant. Varied hues of the same color hide dirt and stains the best.

-- Opt for tightly woven, smooth-surfaced upholstery. Such fabrics will resist a few claw marks and will not encourage a furniture-scratching cat.

Steer clear of highly textured, nubby fabrics and wicker -- all of which encourage scratching. Make sure there's a scratching post or cat tree available instead of the furniture.

-- Use floormats in pet areas. Rubber-backed mats of synthetic pile collect dirt and moisture and clean up easily. Use them just outside and inside the doors, under food dishes and in sleeping areas. A suggestion from a reader: Car mats work well, too. Teach your dog to wait on the mat until you can wipe his paws and you'll never have to deal with muddy footprints again.

-- Keep the litter box scrupulously clean. The benefits are twofold: You won't smell a clean litter box, and your cat won't shun one. Deodorized litters and hooded boxes are fine only if your cat tolerates them -- some won't.

-- Clean up messes immediately. Keep enzymatic cleaners (available at your pet-supply store) at hand. Once stains set, they are very hard to get out and attract pets back to the area to mess again. Never use an ammonia-based cleaner on a pet mess: Ammonia smells like urine to a pet and can invite a repeat performance. If you don't have an enzyme cleaner available, try white vinegar and water, followed by a gentle soap.

-- Keep pets clean. Bathe pets regularly, and keep them brushed and combed. While this cuts down on smell and shedding, it also helps human allergy-sufferers cope with the dander that can prompt an attack.

Those are the basics. Do you have a favorite tip on keeping both pets and a clean house? Let me know and I'll share the best in a future column.

CYBERLINKS: In March 1996, firefighter David Giannelli saw a mother cat struggling to pull her kittens out of a burning building in Brooklyn. He collected her and her kittens, named her Scarlett for the red patches he saw through her singed fur, and took the family for help. One of her five kittens died, and Scarlett was scarred for life. Her story continues to be news -- she was recently featured in People magazine -- and she and her kittens have all found homes. This amazing story of a mother cat's devotion is featured on Scarlett's own page on the North Shore Animal League's Web site, http://www.nsal.org.

Gina Spadafori, the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Giori(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600