DEAR DR. FOX: In a few months, we will be moving with our two indoor-only cats, Dudley, age 15, and Bunny, age 11.

Dudley has a heart condition, a murmur and enlarged chamber, for which he takes daily Plavix and enalapril.

Bunny was diagnosed with impaired kidney function in May 2015. We started her on subcutaneous fluids at that time, tapering off the frequency (because she hated it) until we were doing it once a week. Her results from a blood test last week show that her values have held steady over the last six months.

Because stress is bad for any cat and because these two are high-risk given their history, I have two questions for you:

1. They will be subjected to an 8-hour car ride, in separate cars, to the new house. I had planned to sedate them with a low dose of Valium. Do you have any concerns over this approach, or would you recommend an alternative?

2. What can I do to make the cats feel safe and comfortable in the new house? It is a big house, so I will keep them in one room for a while so they don't get overwhelmed. We will be bringing familiar pieces of furniture, blankets, scratching posts, toys, etc. to place around the house. Any other suggestions?

No other cats have lived in this house, although dogs visited occasionally -- it doesn't smell doggy. -- D.P., Fairfax Station, Virginia

DEAR D.P.: I am sure your cats appreciate your concerned attention with regard to moving them to a new home.

I would not give Valium or any other sedative to the cats because they can become disoriented and more fearful in response to the medication. A pinch or two of catnip just before the road trip may give them some mild relaxation if they enjoy this herb on a regular basis.

I would get the cats used to being in whatever crate or container they will be in during the car ride, and also get them used to short rides in the car. This will help them adapt to the journey and to what would otherwise be the unexpected.

In the new home, make sure all outside-leading doors and windows are secure. Let the cats out to explore the house under your watchful eye once everything is moved in and furniture is put in place, keeping them together in one quiet room with food, water and litter boxes until then. Familiar music or TV voices may help your cats feel less dissonance in the new environment, along with regular routine attention, feeding times and familiar-smelling furniture and rugs.

I hope your new home does not have new fitted carpets. I don't want to alarm you, but to alert you on this issue: The chemicals in most such carpets are toxic and good for no one, especially cats, who have constant contact and exposure. More than 90 percent of dust samples taken from homes in 14 states contained potentially toxic substances, including phenols, phthalates, flame retardants and more, according to a report by Dr. Ami Zota and associates at George Washington University, published in Environmental Science and Technology. Furthermore, synthetic petrochemical materials used in the manufacture of carpets, upholstery, clothing, plastic bags and bottles are not biodegradable, but break down into micro-plastic particles. These are a serious contaminant of waterways, rivers and oceans, absorbing toxic chemicals such as PCBs that sicken aquatic life and those who consume them.

DEAR DR. FOX: My 2-year-old goldendoodle was fine walking on a leash until about two months ago, when she started barking and lunging at dogs we pass. Usually, it is unprovoked, like the other dog walks past oblivious or sometimes briefly glances at her. She is fierce with her barking when she gets started.

She is friendly with other dogs off her leash, and she plays with all sizes and ages of dogs at the dog park just fine. We can also pass dogs she knows well, and she is comfortable, wagging her tail and play bowing. If I make her sit and I stand between her and the other dog with a treat before she starts barking, I can keep her focus on me and she might look at them but not bark. But if I don't head her off in advance, it is difficult to stop her once she starts.

If I drop the leash, she will sometimes switch into play mode and stop barking, but not always. However, dropping the leash is bad dog-owner manners where I live, so I don't do that unless I know the other owner well. My dad suggested spritzing her face with water, which I am willing to try, but would rather come up with a solution that doesn't involve me carrying extra equipment on all our walks.

Do you have some advice for stopping her barking on the leash? -- L.M., Reston, Virginia

DEAR L.M.: You have one of the more common and frustrating dog behaviors to deal with that comes with age -- some dogs become more assertive around full maturity, and being on a leash can make them feel more vulnerable or motivate them to be defensive of you, especially if you are pulling on the leash and expressing some fear, anxiety or annoyance, which your dog will sense.

Play it cool. Do not ever let go of the leash. Stop walking, and put your dog in the sit-on-command position; speak in a low, reassuring voice and reward with verbal praise and a freeze-dried treat for being still while the other dog walks by. Alternatively, put your dog into the heel position on a short leash with you between your dog and the other dog (a Gentle Leader over the muzzle may give you better control), and walk quickly past the other dog and walker saying "Hi" as you pass. Spritzing her face is not advisable, since it could make her more aggressive.

Continue to enjoy the dog park -- it's important to have a safe off-leash area where your dog can run and play with other dogs.

(Send all mail to animaldocfox@gmail.com or to Dr. Michael Fox in care of Universal Uclick, 1130 Walnut St., Kansas City, MO 64106. The volume of mail received prohibits personal replies, but questions and comments of general interest will be discussed in future columns.

Visit Dr. Fox's website at DrFoxVet.net.)

DEAR DR. FOX: Although I love the outdoors and I am sympathetic to wildlife and the environment, I disagree with your recent statements regarding "re-wilding" public lands. The reason for my objection is not made to support trappers, hunters or mining concerns, but to maintain some of these areas so that my grandkids and I can hike or camp without fear of attack or death from one of a few deadly predators that are being reintroduced. My thoughts on a couple of the issues usually mentioned:

1. Putting things back as they were: This can be completed with or without adding deadly predators in the mix. The environment must be fixed in a variety of ways -- regardless of if the predators are there.

2. No need to worry because bears, wolves and cougars are afraid of people, and if we don't bother them, we'll be safe: blatantly false. Cougars and bears already kill a few people each year, and any fear they have will rapidly vanish, as bears in state parks prove over and over again. -- J.P., St. Charles, Missouri

DEAR J.P.: Many people share your fear and concerns over human safety in those parts of our National Park System of public lands designated as national parks and wildlife refuges. Remember that state and federal agencies have waged war on natural predators for decades, their extermination causing great harm to these ecosystems. Their natural recovery or carefully conducted reintroduction is much needed. These lands are not our lands, but theirs; they are only "ours" in sacred trust as good stewards.

Already, our national parks are suffering from the impact of too many tourists. More people are injured and killed by falling trees, snakes, lightning and climbing accidents as well as by their own dogs, cattle and horses on home-base than ever by wolves, lions and bears.

Despite the general impressions that human deaths are regular and imminent, this is not true. I recently corresponded with Will Stolzenburg, author of "Heart of a Lion." He said:

"The last person killed by a mountain lion was in 2008. And in fact, a recent study showed that people's lives are actually being saved by mountain lions, by preventing fatal vehicle collisions with deer (which now kill about 200 people each year). The study further estimates that if mountain lions were allowed to return to the eastern forests, they could save upwards of 155 people over the next 30 years.

"Another point: Many of the aggressive encounters between people and bears or lions stem from our hunting of the animals, by wounding and incapacitating otherwise healthy, well-behaved animals, and by orphaning cubs and kittens who grow desperate. Or, in the particular case of bears, our ill-advised feeding of them primes the possibility for bad encounters. Again, our fault."

So hikers and campers beware; take along a can of pepper spray, keep dogs on the leash -- children, too; and let's give equal consideration to the endangered children of other species who have no less a right to be than we, as I emphasize in my book "Animals and Nature First."

STATE OF COMPANION ANIMAL HEALTH IN THE U.S.

Two reports provide some insight into cat and dog health, and alert owners to discuss preventive measures with their veterinarians.

There were 67.6 cases of diabetes mellitus per 10,000 cats and 23.6 cases per 10,000 dogs. Dental disease continues to be the most common disorder among cats and dogs, affecting 68 percent of cats and 76 percent of dogs in 2015. For more details, see stateofpethealth.com.

In another report, 58 percent of cats and 54 percent of dogs were reported as being overweight or obese. See more at PetObesityPrevention.org.

(Send all mail to animaldocfox@gmail.com or to Dr. Michael Fox in care of Universal Uclick, 1130 Walnut St., Kansas City, MO 64106. The volume of mail received prohibits personal replies, but questions and comments of general interest will be discussed in future columns.

Visit Dr. Fox's website at DrFoxVet.net.)

DEAR DR. FOX: Even though I know you advocate feeding pets -- especially diabetic ones -- homemade food, I wonder if you'd consider this question.

My geriatric cat has been insulin-dependent for 5 1/2 years. I started him on Fancy Feast Classics, but I got shamed into changing him to Hills m/d. This summer, I ventured back to Fancy Feast since he likes it so much better. Suddenly, his blood sugar dropped like a rock. On a schedule of 7 a.m. and 7 p.m. insulin glargine injections, his glucose would be 70 to 100 at 1 or 2 a.m. -- unusual behavior caused me to get up and test.

In your opinion, could m/d have been keeping his blood glucose elevated? If I were to cook his food myself, what would I give him? -- M.J., Cheyenne, Wyoming

DEAR M.J.: As I repeatedly stress in this column, avoid feeding cats high-carbohydrate treats, as well as regular cat foods. I invited veterinarian Greg Martinez (visit dogdishdiet.com) to offer his opinion since I am impressed with his nutrition-first approach to companion animal health issues, which I have long advocated -- and now I feel less alone professionally!

"Diabetes in cats is thought to be caused by too many calories in the diet and too little activity. Overweight, sedentary cats develop Type 2 diabetes, which is the insulin-resistant type also seen in people. A diet with fewer calories per ounce, less fat and fewer carbohydrates will obviously have more protein, just the mix of ingredients that cats evolved to eat (moist rodents or other prey). That same mix of ingredients will also help cats lose weight and regulate their blood sugar. Hill's m/d diet is formulated to have fewer carbohydrates and less fat than other cat foods, but it still may have too many simple carbohydrates for some cats. Fancy Feast Classics worked so well is that the ingredients are also high protein, low fat, high moisture and lower calorie ones. It could be that your cat does not tolerate the cornstarch in the m/d, which may elevate his blood glucose more than the type of carbohydrate in Fancy Feast Classics (the only listed is guar gum, which is a soluble fiber known to help with regulating the blood sugar). Individual cats may just do well with different ingredients, and it sounds like Fancy Feast agrees with your cat, where Hills m/d doesn't. You may try asking your local pet store for a grain-free quality canned cat food with a similar high-protein, low-carbohydrate, medium-fat mixture.

"If you are going to make your own cat food, veterinarian Lisa Pierson has lots of good info on cooking for your cat: Access 'Making Cat Food by Lisa A. Pierson, DVM' at catinfo.org/?link=makingcatfood. The basic recipe calls for 90 percent low-fat meat and keeps the carbohydrate level at less than 10 percent. This high-protein diet is not appropriate for cats with kidney issues."

I would urge against feeding animals carrageenan, which can be found in the Hill's prescription cat food. Read more at my website, DrFoxVet.net.

DEAR DR. FOX: I read your column regarding German shepherd dogs and waiting to spay until after a year because of an issue with their bone health -- I think. I gave the article to my daughter, who has a 5-month-old rescue German shepherd. Now I'm reading about how important it is to spay female dogs before the first heat cycle to help prevent mammary gland cancer.

What is the best way to go in this case? My daughter was going to wait until her dog was a year old, but has changed her mind to have it done at 6 months of age, which is in a month. -- K.K., Fargo, North Dakota

DEAR K.K.: It is a long-held view that spaying dogs before their first heat will help prevent mammary gland cancer. While this is generally true, there are several other health issues that can arise following early removal of the ovaries and which, in the final analysis, negate the benefits of early neutering. So my advice is to wait until the dog is closer to maturity -- around 2 -- before having the operation.

Some veterinarians now leave the ovaries intact to prevent the hormonal deficiencies and imbalances associated with the adverse consequences of a complete ovariohysterectomy. This topic is controversial, and more clinical studies and long-term evaluations of various breeds and the risk-to-benefit ratios of complete or partial removal of the reproductive organs are called for. This may contradict animal shelter policy of neutering all animals prior to adoption, especially in areas where there are too many animals multiplying in the community and adopters cannot be trusted to prevent their animals from reproducing by keeping intact females restrained when in heat.

(Send all mail to animaldocfox@gmail.com or to Dr. Michael Fox in care of Universal Uclick, 1130 Walnut St., Kansas City, MO 64106. The volume of mail received prohibits personal replies, but questions and comments of general interest will be discussed in future columns.

Visit Dr. Fox's website at DrFoxVet.net.)