DEAR DR. FOX: Thank you for your column -- we all enjoy it and have found many helpful suggestions from it! A recent column was about introducing potentially hostile cats and dogs into a shared household. I would like to add another suggestion:

We went through this procedure when our son's girlfriend was forced to give up her lovely husky, Crash. Rather than see him go into a shelter, we took him in. At the time, we had a fairly bossy, mature female cat, Liza, who made it a habit to chase neighbor dogs out of our yard. We eased the getting-acquainted process by establishing a dog-free zone in our upstairs; we fed Liza in the upstairs landing and didn't allow Crash to ever go upstairs. Liza had the run of the two bedrooms and could come down and visit the rest of the house whenever she liked, but didn't have to look over her shoulder when eating or sleeping. In time, the two animals shared couch space and became, if not best friends, at least cordial.

Same house, several years later, different cat and dog: The upstairs is now off-limits to Jeanie. Mellow can eat in peace and then join us in the main part of the house. They behave like siblings, sometimes vying for attention, sometimes sleeping together.

It seems to me that this would work even in smaller spaces: Supply a gated-off room for the cat, or perhaps a kitchen counter -- any space where the cat's food is undisturbed by dogs. -- J.S., Washington, D.C.

DEAR J.S.: Your advice will be helpful for many people having or wanting to keep cats and dogs under the same roof. Cats also like to get away from each other at times, and enjoy having their own cubbyholes and hide-away lairs. With a little forethought, it is surprising how we can enrich our animal companions' living spaces and create these kinds of zones and out-of-bounds areas, as you have discovered.

DEAR DR. FOX: In your answer to the owner of the 8- or 9-year-old cocker spaniel with ear issues, there are a couple of important, yet simple, things for this person to do:

First, either have a groomer or her vet remove the excess hair from inside the ear canal -- with tweezers or by hand -- so the canal itself is open and visible, which makes it much easier to keep it clean and dry.

Second, have the groomer use clippers to remove the excess hair from the underside as well as the outside of the ear flap. Cockers have far more fur on their ears than is necessary, and clipping that off will do away with the heaviness of the flap and allow airflow, which will also help keep them dry. Just make sure that a professional does this, since trying to cut the fur away from the ears with scissors can result in cutting the skin of the ear flap.

As a certified vet tech and former groomer myself, I've seen cockers with the issues this person spoke of, and the above two steps can go a long way with helping to clear up those issues. -- D.R., Martinsburg, Mo.

DEAR D.R.: Your concern is duly noted. Many letters that I receive must be abbreviated to fit the column and allow for more questions and answers. In the case of this dog, veterinary care had already been started, but the ear problem was persisting.

Plucking out the fur inside the external ear canals of dogs having this issue -- such as cocker spaniels and poodles -- to stop moistness and infection is one of the basics of canine preventive health care.

Dog caregivers should know about this and about other preventive routines, such as dental care, the first time they take their dog or puppy to the veterinarian for a full health checkup.

CAT HARNESS CONCERNS

I want to alert all cat caregivers that their pets may be at grave risk when, as I often advocate, they are trained to enjoy slow strolls outdoors wearing a harness attached to a leash.

Begin the training indoors, with an additional leash and snug-fitting neck collar so they become accustomed to the tensions around their bodies. This is because, unlike dogs, cats may suddenly spook outdoors and get out of their harnesses in seconds and run off in terror. Many people have lost their cats -- some temporarily, some forever -- after such tragic events. This recently happened to my wife, Deanna Krantz, and me with our beloved cat, Mr. Mark Twain, whom she rescued from the Minnesota winter a few years ago. We socialized this traumatized, feral soul to the point that we could kiss his tummy. After he squirmed out of his harness and ran away, it took us 12 nights and days of constant vigil before we could get him close enough for me to get ahold of him and bring him indoors after he had a panic attack outdoors.

Cats like Twain, suffering from post-traumatic stress disorder, are especially prone to panic attacks, and he will never again wear a harness and collar.

(Send all mail to animaldocfox@gmail.com or to Dr. Michael Fox in care of Universal Uclick, 1130 Walnut St., Kansas City, MO 64106. The volume of mail received prohibits personal replies, but questions and comments of general interest will be discussed in future columns.

Visit Dr. Fox's website at DrFoxVet.com.)

DEAR DR. FOX: I have read your column for years and find it a wonderful resource for animal lovers and pet owners.

Recently, your column has featured numerous articles denouncing the trap-neuter-return method of feral cat population control. As a lifetime resident of Washington, D.C., I have seen the positive impact that TNR has had on our community and I am very surprised at your position. I would be eager to learn more about what you have personally observed and experienced, and what has led you to believe that TNR is not a humane population-control method.

In my experience, TNR has been an effective and humane approach to the abandoned pet crisis in my area. In my opinion, your columns have not explained the method adequately. I would appreciate it if you could clarify what approach you think might be best, and address the systems for population control that were in place before TNR. -- H. H-D., Washington D.C.

DEAR H. H-D.: I would say that I have yet to see one scientific study confirming that a well-maintained group of feral cats had no adverse impact on indigenous wildlife, that no cat needing veterinary care was ever left untreated, and that the presence of the feral cat colony reduced the number of stray cats in the contiguous community/ecozone, which is a common claim.

I did include a letter in my column advocating horse-barn and hobby-farm placements of feral cats, which I see as a possibility, but not without disease risks to humans, as well as to cats and other animals. Feeding colonies of outdoor cats also feeds competing wildlife such as raccoons, rats and opossums, and sets up a feeding station for wild carnivores -- notably coyotes, who are cat eaters.

I appreciate your care and concerns.

DEAR DR. FOX: We have a 7-year-old yellow Labrador retriever who was diagnosed with diabetes last July.

Although caught early, the vet prescribed too low a dose of Humulin N insulin, causing the dog to lose his appetite and 20 lbs. He also developed neuropathy in his rear hindquarters, causing him not to be able to walk. For two weeks, the vet couldn't get it under control, so we took him to another vet, who increased his dosage and he started responding. He began to eat, and after two weeks was able to get up and walk again.

It seems to have aged him, but he still wants to go for walks -- although shorter than normal for a 7-year-old Lab. He's been on Hills W/D prescription food and his weight has been pretty stable at 73 lbs. I monitor his glucose, but it seems to fluctuate, and every couple of weeks the vet has me increase the insulin. He's now at 30 units twice a day. I also feel he is still drinking more water than normal. The costs, between the prescription food and insulin, are getting ridiculous.

Do you have any suggestions on why his glucose isn't leveling off, and maybe alternative treatments? -- M.W.F., Interlaken, N.J.

DEAR M.W.F.: You and your poor dog have my sympathy. There is a strong genetic basis for the development of this pancreatic hormonal deficiency disease, possibly triggered in susceptible dogs by what their mothers were fed, and what they themselves eat -- namely, a high-carbohydrate diet with high glycemic-index ingredients such as corn.

As with diabetic people, dogs may also benefit from a daily supplement of powdered cinnamon (1 teaspoon per 50 lbs. of body weight, mixed in with food).

I, and others, have written critically about these manufactured prescription foods (see my book "Not Fit for a Dog: The Truth About Manufactured Cat & Dog Food"). Your dog may well fare better on a home-prepared diet like those developed by veterinarians and available for sale in recipe format from Balance IT: phone number 888-346-6362, website Secure.balanceit.com. Also check veterinarian D.R. Strombeck's website: dogcathomeprepareddiet.com.

(Send all mail to animaldocfox@gmail.com or to Dr. Michael Fox in care of Universal Uclick, 1130 Walnut St., Kansas City, MO 64106. The volume of mail received prohibits personal replies, but questions and comments of general interest will be discussed in future columns.

Visit Dr. Fox's website at DrFoxVet.com.)

I receive many inquiries about how effective certain herbal and homeopathic products are, along with letters singing these products' praises -- some of which I feel may come from unscrupulous marketers. My basic advice is to first consult with your veterinarian. Then, go on the Internet and see what kinds of consumer reviews are posted, if there are no peer-reviewed clinical studies published. If you find any of the latter, share them with your animal doctor. Check my website, drfoxvet.com, for some effective and safe products for various conditions. All products should clearly list the ingredients.

I do not have the resources to help pet owners through the process of trying out these many products being marketed, and it is my sincere wish that more clinical trials would be conducted by veterinarians in full-time companion animal practice, and by veterinary college departments of small-animal medicine. I have, for instance, heard that cats with kidney disease have benefited from Azodyl, a dietary supplement, and both diabetic cats and dogs from Blood Sugar Gold, an herbal extract/tincture. But I have no hard, published evidence or confirmation from veterinarians to unconditionally endorse these and other products -- much as I would like to, if they are indeed safe and effective. My final word: Discuss any new products with your veterinarian, and try them with caution if your animal doctor believes that they should, at least, do no harm.

DEAR DR. FOX: My son got me a Yorkie last May. The dog is less than a year old. I am handicapped, and he is hyper and constantly barking.

Is there anything I can do? I love him, but don't like his behavior. He is about 10 lbs. I had a Yorkie several years ago that was small, and the most wonderful dog you could have. This dog is hard to understand or try to teach anything. He is so strong-willed. Please help! --P.L.

DEAR P.L.: I presume that your son is a caring person, and not just giving you a dog as a substitute for him visiting as often as he can. If he were better informed, he would have found you an older dog, not a young one who is physically active and probably gets easily bored when not engaging in various activities.

All being well, as the dog matures in a year or so, he will calm down. But right now, he needs lots of stimulation that you must provide to whatever degree you can, considering how severe your physical handicap may be. Call in a dog trainer to teach you interactive games and how to reward him for not barking, which he probably does for attention. If you can't walk the dog and get him outside for off-leash running and exploring in the yard or a safe dog park, hire someone to come over at least once a day. Maybe your son could help, too.

Good luck to you and your young dog.

DEAR DR. FOX: I know how hard it is to try and diagnose an animal without a physical examination, but I really need an opinion, however general. I cannot afford to take my cat to the vet, as I am 76 and on a fixed income.

My problem involves a cat that I have kept for many years, after my granddaughter couldn't keep him. He is an indoor cat, never been out, always healthy and sleek with a good appetite.

I noticed during the winter that his water bowl was always nearly empty, abnormally so. He didn't used to be overly fond of wet food, and ate a lot of dry. Things have lately reversed and he is craving wet food, and seems ravenous for any kind of food -- my dinner, anything he smells -- and he is losing weight. He doesn't seem in any pain, sleeps a lot, purrs when he sleeps near me at night, and he is still active, jumping on the sofa, etc. I am tempted to just let nature and age take their course, as long as he isn't vomiting or bleeding, etc.

Could he have diabetes? If he were an outside cat, I would suspect a tapeworm, but I examine his stools and they look normal. If you could advise, I would so greatly appreciate it. -- L.W., Asbury Park, N.J.

DEAR L.W.: You and your cat have my sympathy. Such ravenous appetite and weight loss can be due to a number of disorders appearing in middle-aged and older cats.

A hyperactive thyroid gland, often combined with diabetes and possibly kidney disease and some form of cancer, is the kind of thing a veterinarian would first check your cat for. The diagnostics and likely treatments will not be cheap.

If your community has an animal shelter or humane society, call and see what kind of financial support may be available. Some veterinarians offer discounts and set up installment payments for services.

The alternative is to make life as comfortable as possible for your cat. Make big batches of my home-prepared cat food (on drfoxvet.com), and give him 5-7 very small (1 tablespoon) meals of moist food and all the dry food he wants. Also give him daily pinches of organic catnip, available in pet stores, which most cats enjoy immensely; you can even get live plants in some garden supply stores and nurseries. In the evening, give him 1 mg of melatonin, available over the counter in drug and health stores.

(Send all mail to animaldocfox@gmail.com or to Dr. Michael Fox in care of Universal Uclick, 1130 Walnut St., Kansas City, MO 64106. The volume of mail received prohibits personal replies, but questions and comments of general interest will be discussed in future columns.

Visit Dr. Fox's website at DrFoxVet.com.)