DEAR READERS: I have received letters from some readers whose dogs refuse to go inside their crates. When the dogs are forced inside, they fight to get out and even bare their teeth. While a few dogs will never accept being shut inside a crate, most will accept short periods of confinement once they feel the crate is a pleasurable refuge. Many will also use the crate as their den while the door is kept open so they can enter and leave as they choose.

The trick is to make it rewarding by putting a familiar smelling towel or blanket in the open crate and laying out a trail of treats leading into the crate. Eventually, the dog will willingly go into the crate to reach a treat or favorite toy tossed inside. Close the door for a few seconds to begin with, and give the dog a food puzzle toy or hollow rubber toy stuffed with cream cheese or peanut butter. Habituation and creating rewarding, pleasurable associations is the key -- as they are to most dog-training activities.

DEAR DR. FOX: We have a 10-month-old Pomeranian, weighing 10 lbs., who becomes very anxious when she goes in the car. She starts to hyper-salivate before we even start moving, and she vomits about a mile into the ride.

Our vet gave her Cerenia, which did not work. We tried a Thundershirt for anxiety -- not good. The vet gave us Xanax and told us to give her Dramamine, but that did not work, either. He upped the dose of Xanax, to no new results. I have tried Benadryl and ginger. We do not feed her the day of travel.

We are at a loss for what to do. We have tried short trips to the mailbox or around the block, but nothing seems to work. Any ideas? I am thinking of changing vets because he does not know what to do for her. -- C.R., Arlington, Va.

DEAR C.R.: First, stop all medications and simply sit in the car with your dog for short periods -- around 10 to 15 minutes -- several times a day for as many days as you can until she is more settled. This will desensitize her to the now-conditioned anxiety and associated nausea of being in the vehicle while it is in motion.

Read a book, have the radio on (try some CDs from "Through a Dog's Ear") and give her a few treats. Keep her in a safety harness at all times.

Once she stops drooling and showing signs of fear/anxiety, switch on the engine and let it run for short periods while you are out in the car with her. Next step is to slowly drive a few blocks so she gets used to the motion of the car. Before you start this, get some organic essential oil of lavender and make an emulsion in warm water. Spritz it inside the car, or put a few drops on a strip of gauze and hang it inside the car. Also, put a few drops of this calming oil on a bandanna around her neck. PetzLife dog calming natural product @-Eaze may help you at this stage and at the very beginning of the desensitization process, if she really hates getting into the car.

DEAR DR. FOX: I have an 8-year-old spayed female cat who I have a problem with: All of a sudden she poops on the living room carpet.

She still goes in her litter box, but at random intervals, she will poop (but not pee) in the living room in the middle of the night. We haven't changed her litter box or location, and she has plenty of room in the box. It is also cleaned after every time she goes. It seems to happen when she sleeps in the living room in the night. Could she be doing this while sleepwalking like a human might? She has a sister who we have no problems with, and she is in no way preventing her sister from going in the box. -- D.F., Bethel, Conn.

DEAR D.F.: Your cat is young to be showing signs of feline dementia, which can, as with humans, lead to incontinence. But I would not rule that out if there is no other evident physical cause, which your veterinarian can check for. These include painful impaction of the anal glands and constipation, which is very common in cats being fed conventional manufactured kibble.

Getting your cat used to a few drops of fish oil and some mashed green or lima beans for soft bulk fiber in her food may prove to be the best solution. You can also try feeding her a good-quality canned cat food, as posted on my website, DrFoxVet.com.

(Send all mail to animaldocfox@gmail.com or to Dr. Michael Fox in care of Universal Uclick, 1130 Walnut St., Kansas City, MO 64106. The volume of mail received prohibits personal replies, but questions and comments of general interest will be discussed in future columns.

Visit Dr. Fox's website at DrFoxVet.com.)

DEAR DR. FOX: Earlier this year, our golden retriever was diagnosed with ehrlichiosis. We were prescribed a pretty expensive routine of drugs and monthly vet visits, and we are not really getting any results. We cannot afford to give her all of the meds the doctor has prescribed. She is currently getting prednisone, Denamarin and Renavast.

We are supposed to be giving her more of the Denamarin and Renavast than we are, but it's already adding up to $300 a month. Are there any cheaper alternatives, or do you think we are fighting a losing battle? We have to force-feed her most days, but once and a while she will eat on her own. I do not know what to do anymore. We don't want to lose her, but things are getting financially problematic for us. -- J.H., West Fargo, N.D.

DEAR J.H.: This disease, transmitted by ticks such as the brown dog tick, can be treated when an early diagnosis is made. But treatment is a challenge when this tick-transmitted infectious organism that enters and multiplies in certain blood cells has proliferated too invasively into the dog's tissues and organs.

Fever, lameness, loss of appetite, abdominal pain, enlarged spleen and lymph glands, bleeding from the nose, eye discharge and swelling of the extremities are early signs of infection, which can be confirmed by blood serum tests.

Regrettably, your dog is in the chronic stage of this disease, which could lead to blindness, kidney failure or collapse from internal bleeding. Have you had a frank discussion with the attending veterinarian about your financial concerns? Some equitable solution may be forthcoming if you are open. A less costly treatment trial with one of the tetracycline drugs may be worth consideration. Above all, your dog's comfort and quality of life need to be considered when there is no relief from the chronic, complex consequences of this disease.

PET FOOD INDUSTRY REVOLUTION/EVOLUTION

Pet Products News International reports that, according to the GfK Group (a Germany-based global market research company tracking business in 11,000 United States pet stores), sales of grain-free pet foods have jumped some 28 percent over the past year.

More than $1.4 billion was spent on this kind of pet food for dogs, and some $322 million for cats in 2012. While this is a small fraction of the annual $21 billion-a-year pet food market, it is a significant change in consumer choice and demand, driving market availability. Much of this has to do with the pet obesity epidemic and other documented health problems in dogs and cats associated with high cereal content diets. (For details, visit DrFoxVet.com.) It is an issue of special concern for cats, who are obligate carnivores and cannot process cereals and other sources of starch, unlike most dogs.

I have long advocated a reduction of soy products in dog foods and their elimination from all cat foods. Pet owners should check the ingredients of grain-free pet foods that may use high-carbohydrate substitutes, such potato and pea flour, as a binder in dry foods.

I have also been a long-time advocate of organic farming. According to the Organic Trade Association, organic pet food sales are growing at nearly three times the rate of similar organic, USDA-certified human food sales. This is noteworthy because of documented animal health and environmental concerns about genetically engineered crops and foods. Some pet food and pet treat manufacturers are even including a "No GMO" or "GMO-free" label on their products.

These market trends indicate the power of informed consumers voting with their dollars to support a more healthful agriculture and human food industry, of which the pet food industry is a subsidiary. It's time for a revolution, since the catalysts for many changes are the diet-related health problems being seen in dogs and cats fed conventional manufactured pet foods.

(Send all mail to animaldocfox@gmail.com or to Dr. Michael Fox in care of Universal Uclick, 1130 Walnut St., Kansas City, MO 64106. The volume of mail received prohibits personal replies, but questions and comments of general interest will be discussed in future columns.

Visit Dr. Fox's website at DrFoxVet.com.)

DEAR DR. FOX: For 2 1/2 years, my dog weighed 49 pounds and took heartworm medicine for dogs weighing from 25 to 50 pounds (Sentinel once-a-month tablets). Last week, she weighed 51 pounds, and I was told to increase to the 50 to 100-pound tablet. This seems like overkill, but the vet made a big deal out of it. Though she was covered just fine at 49 pounds, she's no longer safe since she gained 2 pounds.

What are your thoughts on this? -- M.K., Virginia Beach, Va.

DEAR M.K.: You raise an important question. I had the same conundrum with one of my own dogs and decided to feed her less and exercise her more when she crossed over from a svelte 47 to 52 pounds, which meant I could keep her on the smaller dose of Heartguard's ivermectin.

It is important in all states where there is a winter kill of mosquitoes to take dogs off this preventive medication and have a blood titer test done to make sure they are clear before resuming medication the next spring.

There are concerns that the heartworm parasite is developing drug resistance in some states, especially in the Mississippi River delta, so extra vigilance and not missing the monthly preventive medication are called for at this time.

DEAR DR. FOX: Do you recommend deworming cats? One of the three from a litter, now 9 months old, vomits after every meal. The other two are fine. -- J.V., Winston-Salem, N.C.

DEAR J.V.: Please avoid the temptation to make your own veterinary diagnosis, and take your cat to see a veterinarian if you believe your cat has worms because you have actually seen them. Cats and dogs who sometimes vomit or have loose stools are too often given over-the-counter worming medications by their owners, which, more often than not, cause more harm than good and are a waste of money because worms were not a problem. But this is not to ignore the fact that most kittens and puppies need worming with the right medication once the kind of worms they have are identified.

Similarly, people will buy various flea sprays, drops and pills whenever they see their pet scratching, making a wrong diagnosis -- cats and dogs scratch themselves intensely for reasons other than fleas -- even with fatal consequences for cats when given anti-flea preparations meant only for dogs.

YOUR END-OF-YEAR DONATIONS: AVOIDING CORRUPT CHARITIES

There has been much talk in the news about various charities, designated as nonprofit organizations, from those claiming to help war veterans to international disaster relief, that prove to be scams with little or no funds ever going to help the designated causes. Always make sure your donations are tax-deductible and go to a registered 501(c)(3) charity. For some guidance in this domain, visit charitywatch.org and charitynavigator.org. Also find some links to reputable nonprofit organizations on my website, DrFoxVet.com.

When it comes to animal and environmental protection organizations soliciting your support, some of the large ones are already well-funded by corporations and their spin-off charity branches or foundations. They may be limited in their effectiveness by conflicts of interest and by the need to maintain high executive salaries and slush fund travel expenses and other perks, some playing shell games with their accounting and accountability.

Remember, small is beautiful, and small, local groups and chapters of reputable larger nonprofits (such as the Audubon Society) are easier to support if you want to monitor your donations and not just send out some conscience money to feel good. Small organizations include your local animal shelter and humane society -- not to be confused with the Humane Society of the United States -- and wildlife rehabilitation and environmental education centers. Some larger nonprofits, such as the Animal Welfare Institute, Union of Concerned Scientists and Earth Island Institute, are reliably transparent. One must be especially cautious with those soliciting funds to help nonprofit organizations abroad. Find out if your donations are tax deductible and what percentage goes to actually help rather than paying for overhead expenses.

(Send all mail to animaldocfox@gmail.com or to Dr. Michael Fox in care of Universal Uclick, 1130 Walnut St., Kansas City, MO 64106. The volume of mail received prohibits personal replies, but questions and comments of general interest will be discussed in future columns.

Visit Dr. Fox's website at DrFoxVet.com.)