Moving from one home to another is always a daunting experience. But moving in the dead of winter presents its own sets of problems, with the major headache being the unpredictability of the weather.

Winter storms of all ilks -- from driving ice storms to downright blizzards -- can play havoc with moving. Fortunately, moving companies aren’t as busy as they are in spring and summer, so they can more easily switch days if the weather makes it necessary.

But if you want to move on the appointed day no matter what, most professional drivers and vehicles are up to the task. “We can get the job done regardless of the weather,” says Lior Rachmany of New York’s Dumbo Moving and Storage, one the largest household goods movers in the area. His advice is to stay positive, even in dire weather. “It may be freezing outside, but remain cool,” he says. “We’re always going to get the job done.”

Not all moving companies are that adventurous, though. Allied Van Lines, for one, says that if the roads are impassible, it won’t send out its trucks.

If you postpone at least 48 hours before your scheduled move, the mover probably won’t assess a penalty. But just in case, ask the company about its weather-setback policy before you sign a contract or hand over a down payment.

If you decide to go ahead as planned, it may take somewhat longer than expected because the mover may have to change routes due to road conditions. For example, in periods of high winds, trucks may not be permitted to cross certain bridges. So keep your eyes and ears tuned to your local traffic reports, advises Niccole Schreck, a rental expert with rent.com.

To help the process along, it is your responsibility to make sure your sidewalks, steps and driveways are clear. Shovel them or have the plowed, and throw down some salt so they don’t freeze over. Do the same at your new place. You might also want to consider erecting some kind of tent as a shelter over exposed pathways. Your movers must have safe access to both houses. If either place is inaccessible, the move will be delayed or canceled.

Also at both houses, put down cardboard or plastic sheeting to protect your floors, and have plenty of towels available to wipe down whatever gets wet. Plastic can also be used to protect your electronics, wooden furniture and plants.

Packing-wise, you can use boxes, but consider plastic bins instead. They ward off the elements so much better. Since it might not be financially feasible to buy enough tubs, inquire about the possibility of renting what you need from your mover. It may ratchet up the cost of your move a bit, but it will protect your goods much better than cardboard.

Even if you stick with boxes, as an added layer of protection, the guys on your particular job should cover them with moving pads or some kind of tarp as they are taken from the old house to the truck and then from the truck into the new house. The crew should also put plastic wrap around your furniture, appliances, electronics and other items than don’t fit neatly into a rectangular container.

Obviously, you and your family won’t be going in the van with your stuff, so service your car ahead of time, and make sure you pack a shovel, ice scrapers, salt, a warm change of clothes, rain or snow gear and blankets. And make sure you take some extra cash along, if only for some nice tips for the frozen crew in the truck at the end of the day.

At the new place, make sure the utilities are on, and have cleaning supplies on hand. The same goes for the old house; you’ll want to be able to clean up in both places.

A few other tips: Help warm up your family and the crew by keeping a pot of hot coffee or hot chocolate at the ready. The movers’ gloves may get soaked, so buy some extra warm gloves at the dollar store and keep them handy.

Most of what you just read also applies to folks who are moving themselves, rather than hiring professional movers. But to avoid the additional issues winter moves present, do-it-yourselfers might want to consider renting a big shipping container that they can load and unload themselves.

When you’re finished loading the container, the company will pick it up and deliver it to your new residence. And when you are done unloading, they’ll come back and take it away.

As an investor in a few rental properties, I always hated depreciation. As a landlord, I also learned -- the hard way -- to despise deferred maintenance.

My animosity toward these two line items on every investor-landlord’s tax return welled up again at tax time last spring. I’d sold a rental property the year before, and now the depreciation I had claimed over the years came back to bite me.

As an investor, you have no choice but to claim depreciation every year you own an income-producing property. If you don’t, the IRS will impute it for you. So every year, I dutifully claimed the benefit, which helped cut my taxes.

Now that the house had been sold, Uncle Sam wanted back some of the depreciation I had written off. Legally, it’s called “recapture,” but many landlords disparagingly call it the “Gotcha Tax.”

I’ll tell you how it works, but first, this important warning: Please don’t take this as professional tax advice; it isn’t. For a better and more detailed explanation, consult a tax accountant. But here is my layman’s understanding of depreciation:

Depreciation is a tax write-off that allows landlords to recover the cost of their properties as well as the improvements made to them. It’s basically an allocation of the cost of the property to future periods.

Because your property has a useful life beyond one year, you can’t deduct the cost of buying and improving the house on a single tax return like you can the cost of maintenance, repairs, homeowner’s association fees and other expenses. Rather, you must “capitalize” and depreciate those costs over their useful life, which the IRS says is 27.5 years for a house or condo.

Consider a rental house that you buy for $200,000. Since you can’t depreciate land, you must separate the cost of the land from the purchase price. So if the lot in this example is worth, say, $50,000, you can depreciate only $150,000. But even at the lower figure, your annual deduction can be substantial.

In this example, you would divide $150,000 by 27.5 and come up with an annual deduction of $5,455. To calculate your actual tax savings, multiply your annual write-off by your marginal tax rate. So, if you are in the 25 percent bracket, you will realize a tax savings of $1,364 each year you own and operate the place as a rental.

There’s no doubt depreciation is a great tax benefit. But it sucks when you sell the place because, as most rookie investors don’t realize, you have to pay a good chunk of change back to the feds. The IRS charges a maximum of 25 percent recapture tax on all the depreciation you have written off to a maximum of your original cost. And the charge can be a painfully bitter pill to swallow.

In the above example, in the year you sell, you may owe as much as 25 percent of the $150,000 you paid for the house sans land. It could be less because you are selling in a tax bracket lower than 25 percent, or you might not have fully depreciated the property. Still, in this example of a fully depreciated rental unit, the tax bite works out to $37,500.

Ouch! And double ouch for deferred maintenance, which can destroy your finances without any help from the government.

To avoid this silent slayer of profit margins, you must make regular inspections of your rental property -- with notice, of course, to your tenants.

Don’t rely on tenants to notify you when a stove burner stops working, the toilet runs constantly or the kitchen faucet drips. Many tenants have no stake in their rentals, and others may be afraid you’ll blame them for the problem, so they tend to avoid reporting small issues. They’d rather just live with them, even if they’ll be held responsible for damages when they move out.

But small problems eventually turn into big ones; a landlord’s head-in-the-sand philosophy can become very expensive, very quickly. The failure to perform needed repairs could lead to property deterioration, higher costs, asset failure and even health and safety issues.

So it’s on you to stay on top of things by inspecting the structure, and all units, regularly. Here’s a rudimentary starter checklist.

Begin outside. Walk around the house in slowly tightening concentric circles, starting about 60 feet away. As you move closer, look for foundation problems, leaking shutoff valves, missing paint, holes, large cracks, damaged downspouts and areas where water is accumulating near the structure. As you get closer, check the soffits, doors, windows, screens and vents.

Inside, start in the basement or crawl space. Make sure there is no excessive moisture, and no critters squatting in the corner without paying rent. Check the pipes for leaks and be certain insulation is still in place. And test the stairs, decks and porches to be certain they are still safe.

Always check the HVAC system, and consider an annual service contract with your favorite local specialist. Always change the filters, even if they appear to be clean.

Finally, go into each room, looking for damage such as broken windows, screens or switch plates, torn carpeting or damaged flooring.

Nobody likes to pay alimony to an ex-spouse. Come Jan. 1, there will be one more reason to hate alimony.

Beginning next year, the payment to a former mate will no longer be tax-deductible on your federal return, just like child support is not a write-off.

Currently, alimony is a deduction for the payer, which is usually the former couple’s highest earner. And the recipient must declare the payment as income.

But under the Tax Cuts and Jobs Act, that rule goes away. As of the first of the year, alimony is neither deductible nor reportable. In other words, just like child support, the payment will not be visible on your tax return.

What impact this will have is anyone’s guess. But some experts believe that, because they cannot afford to live in different residences, the new rules may have the unintended consequence of slowing the divorce rate: keeping the no-longer-happy couple in the same home, but living separate lives.

Other possibilities: The spouse who wants to move out of the shared house may not be able to afford to, because he or she is losing the write-off. Or there might be a mad scramble to sign the divorce papers before the end of this year.

This change in the tax code is not retroactive. However, if there is an agreement existing prior to the end of this year and it is modified sometime in the future, the law says there will no longer be a deduction.

Please note: This is not intended to be legal advice, only a heads-up. Consult a tax professional or divorce attorney for more information.

Homeowners are staying in their places longer than ever, according to the Census Bureau, further exacerbating the inventory shortage of houses for sale in many markets.

Thirty years ago, sellers remained in place for a median of six years. But in 1997, the median increased to seven years, where it remained until 2008 -- the beginning of the housing meltdown and the Great Recession. Then, the median tenure started bumping up by a year every year. And the longer people stay in their homes, the less inventory is on the market.

The idea of saving for a 20 percent down payment is all but irrelevant today. Many lenders will clear would-be homebuyers who have as little as 3 percent of their own money to put down, as long as they have the income to support higher monthly payments.

Of course, it’s always advantageous to put down as much money as possible, because it will lessen your monthly mortgage outlay. But if you are aiming for 20 percent, you’re going to be a renter for a long time -- perhaps a full decade or more.

Based on a median national home value of $216,000, 20 percent down translates into $43,200. Consequently, a renter earning the median income won’t have enough for 20 percent for 77 months, or almost 6.5 years, according to research from HotPads, a rental-finder website.

But in 13 of the 35 largest metro areas, it could take more than a decade. And in the most expensive markets, such as Los Angeles, San Jose and San Diego, how does 22 years strike you?

The rental site also reports that members of Generation Z, who are just now entering their homebuying years, will spend about $226,000 on rent before they can become owners. That’s more than any other previous generation.

By comparison, millennials can expect to spend $202,000 on rent before buying -- a far cry from baby boomers, who paid landlords “only” $148,000 on rent before buying.

You can changes houses, but you can’t change your new neighborhood. And according to research from Trulia, more than a third of movers regret where they chose to move, and would change locations if they could take a mulligan.

Trulia found that 36 percent of recent homebuyers have “neighborhood regret.” That feeling is even greater in metropolitan areas, where, based on a sample of 1,000 families who moved within the last three years, almost half of all movers are dissatisfied with their choices.

Attributes that led to regret: noise, traffic and lack of public transit. On the other hand, traits that make a neighborhood suitable are its “vibe,” low crime rates and an easier commute to work.

If you are thinking about buying, check out where you want to go first, and then look for a house in those places. Look up neighborhood photos, search for the hot shopping and dining spots and visit your top choices. Once you settle on a location, contact an agent who is an expert in that local market.