A good sauce is a cook’s magic wand. It’s a trick up the sleeve, so to speak, for jazzing up all sorts of meat, fish, poultry and vegetables, while also multitasking as a spread for sandwiches or a dollop for eggs, rice -- even soups. And it’s a definite keeper when it can be plunked into a bowl and called a dip, to boot.

Romesco sauce is one such sauce. Romesco is a smoky Catalonian tomato sauce, hailing from Tarragona, Spain. It’s a blend of roasted tomatoes and garlic, dried chile pepper, almonds, olive oil and sherry vinegar, often thickened with bread. As homemade traditions go, there are variations from cook to cook, but the bottom line is it’s a chunky, fruity, piquant sauce with just a hint of heat that checks all the boxes listed above.

So, romesco was the sauce that came to mind the other night when I craved a smoky red sauce to ladle over a platter of crispy golden potatoes. However, as real life often dictates -- especially on a frigid weeknight, in an icy storm, and decidedly not in Spain -- my Catalonian vision was relegated to the kitchen pantry and spice drawer for homemade improvisation. Crushed tomatoes, jarred roasted peppers, a generous sprinkling of spice and a splash of sherry vinegar morphed into this sauce. We shall not call it a romesco sauce, since it is not. However, it was a romesco-inspired smoky red pepper sauce, and a delicious addition to the crispy potatoes -- and I dare say, would make a great dip.

Roasted Potatoes With Smoky Red Pepper Sauce

Active time: 15 minutes

Total time: 15 minutes plus cooling time for the sauce; 45 minutes for the potatoes

Yield: Makes about 2 cups

Sauce:

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 garlic clove, minced

1/4 teaspoon crushed red chili flakes

2 teaspoons smoked paprika

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 (8-ounce jar) roasted red peppers, about 4 peppers, drained and chopped

1 cup (8 ounces) crushed tomatoes

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

2 tablespoons honey

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1 to 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley

Potatoes:

1 1/2 pounds small yellow potatoes, halved

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Make the sauce: Heat the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and saute until aromatic, about 30 seconds. Stir in the paprika, cumin and coriander, and then the tomato paste. Continue to stir to toast the ingredients, 15 to 30 seconds. Stir in the peppers, tomatoes, vinegar, honey and salt. Simmer for 3 to 4 minutes to meld the flavors. Transfer to a food processor and pulse to achieve a slightly chunky salsa consistency. Transfer to a bowl, stir in the parsley, and cool to room temperature.

While the sauce is cooling, prepare the potatoes. Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Combine the potatoes, oil, salt and pepper in a bowl and toss to coat. Spread on a rimmed baking tray, cut sides down. Roast in the oven until golden brown and tender, about 40 minutes, turning once. Serve the potatoes with the sauce.

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CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Caption 01: Photo by Lynda Balslev for TasteFood

Do not underestimate a tiny cake. French financiers are simple, luxurious two-bite pastries. They are meant to be eaten as a teacake or an after-dinner sweet, but frankly, they can be enjoyed at any time of day. Their name reflects the small rectangular molds in which they are traditionally baked, resulting in a gold-tinged cake resembling an ingot.

Financiers may be petite, but they do not fail to deliver flavor. They are sweet and delicate, composed primarily of ground nuts, egg whites and sugar. Their crisp exterior gives way to a soft and light interior redolent with brown butter.

Brown butter, or beurre noisette, is a baker’s secret weapon. When butter is melted and cooked, the milk solids separate and brown; the butter takes on a golden hue and toasty flavor that adds rich nuttiness to baked goods and sauces. It’s no surprise brown butter is nicknamed liquid gold, which is especially befitting for a cake named after a gold bar.

Browning butter may sound intimidating, but it’s a quick process and worth knowing for its delicious flavor (you will likely become a convert). It's important to keep an eye on the butter throughout the process. Once it begins to change color, it can quickly change from brown to burnt. When the milk solids at the bottom of the pan are dark brown, the butter is ready. Do not let the solids turn black, or they will be burnt. (If this should happen, do not worry. Simply toss it out and try again.)

Financiers are very simple to make. In this recipe, a mini muffin pan provides an easy alternative to the traditional ingot mold. Fresh raspberries are added for a pop of tart brightness to balance the sweetness of the cake. Note that whole berries will sink into the cakes while baking. If you prefer not to have the berry in the center of the cake, halve the berries and place one half, cut side down, on top before baking. The lighter half-berry will sink less into the batter.

Raspberry Brown Butter Financiers

Active time: 10 minutes

Total time: 25 minutes

Yield: Makes 16 (1 1/2-inch) cakes

1/2 cup unsalted butter, divided in 3 to 4 pieces, plus additional butter for greasing the pan

1 cup almond flour (almond meal)

2/3 cup granulated sugar

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

4 large egg whites (about 1/2 cup)

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Fresh raspberries

Brown the butter: Arrange the 1/2 cup butter in a stainless-steel or light-colored saucepan over medium heat. (Do not use a dark or cast-iron pan, which will prevent you from seeing the color of the butter as it cooks.) Melt the butter, stirring occasionally. Once melted, let the butter cook undisturbed. It will begin to sizzle at the edges and bubble, then the bubbles will begin to subside. At this point, the milk solids will sink to the bottom of the pan. Watch closely; the butter will turn golden brown with tiny dark brown milk solids at the bottom of the pan. Once the butter is golden brown and the milk solids are dark brown (not black), immediately remove the pan from the heat and pour the butter into a heatproof bowl to stop the cooking process. The entire browning process will take 5 to 7 minutes. Let the butter cool slightly.

Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Generously butter a mini muffin pan.

In a medium bowl, whisk the almond flour, sugar, all-purpose flour and salt. Stir in the egg whites and vanilla, then add the butter.

Spoon or pipe the batter into the prepared muffin tin cups, about two-thirds full. Place a raspberry (or raspberry half) in the center of each cup.

Bake in the oven until golden brown at the edges and a toothpick comes clean when inserted in the cake, 14 to 15 minutes. Transfer to a rack to cool for 15 minutes, then remove the cakes and cool completely.

Note: For an almond variation, substitute almond extract for the vanilla extract, and garnish with sliced almonds instead of raspberries. Hazelnut flour can be substituted for the almond flour.

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CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Caption 01: Photo by Lynda Balslev for TasteFood

I am tempted to call this a leek recipe with salmon (rather than a salmon recipe with leeks). The word order in a recipe title is important. It usually emphasizes the star of the dish first, followed by any supporting ingredients. In this recipe, the salmon is notably a main ingredient; however, I will argue that the leeks deserve to be the star.

Leeks are in the allium family, which includes onions, garlic, shallots and chives. As a proper allium, they do indeed have an onion-y flavor, but leeks are buttery and milder than their sharp and pungent siblings when cooked. They often play an important backup role in soups, stews and braises, where they subtly boost flavor and melt into the background of the dish.

In this recipe, leeks are quite literally the bed or base of the dish. They are chopped and sauteed until slippery soft and squidgy, creating a rich, sludgy compote on which salmon fillets rest. While the fish is arguably a focal point, the leek compote elevates this dish. A splash of white wine and chicken stock are added to the compote for savory oomph, and herbaceous tarragon adds a pop of freshness to each bite. It’s a sweet and buttery complement to the richness of the roasted salmon, with neither key ingredient overpowering the other -- a wonderful double act.

When cooking leeks, it’s important to clean them well to remove any grit or dirt between the layers. Simply trim the roots and the dark green tops, leaving the white and pale green parts for eating. (You can save the green tops for making a vegetable stock if you like.) With a sharp knife, halve each leek lengthwise, and peel away the tough outside layer. Thinly slice the leeks into half-moons and place in a salad spinner or colander. Run under cold water to rinse away any grit. Then spin or pat dry.

Roasted Salmon With Leek Compote

Active time: 20 minutes

Total time: 45 minutes

Yield: Serves 4

6 leeks, medium thickness, green tops and roots trimmed

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

Extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

1/4 cup dry white wine

1/4 cup chicken stock

1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon, plus more for garnish

Freshly ground black pepper

4 center-cut salmon filets, each 6 to 8 ounces, skin and pin-bones removed

Aleppo pepper flakes (optional)

Finely chopped chives for garnish

Finely grated lemon zest for garnish

1 lemon, cut into 4 wedges

Remove the roots and dark green ends of the leeks and discard any tough outer layers. Halve the leeks lengthwise, then thinly slice into half-moons. Place in a colander and rinse under cold water to remove any grit. Pat dry with a kitchen towel.

Melt the butter with 1 tablespoon oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the leeks and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Saute until the leeks are bright in color and slightly soft, about 4 minutes. Pour in the wine and simmer until the wine is nearly evaporated, about 2 minutes, stirring up any brown bits. Add the stock and continue to cook until the liquid is absorbed and the leeks are soft and sludgy, about 4 minutes more, stirring frequently. (If the pan dries out before the leeks are fully cooked, add chicken stock 1 to 2 tablespoons at a time.) Remove from the heat, stir in the tarragon, and season with black pepper. Taste for seasoning and add more salt if desired. Keep warm.

Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

Place the salmon filets in a baking dish. Brush with olive oil and season with salt and Aleppo pepper flakes (or additional black pepper). Transfer to the oven and cook until just cooked through, 20 to 25 minutes, depending on the thickness of the salmon.

Divide the leek compote between serving plates. Arrange the salmon over the leeks. Sprinkle the chives and lemon zest over the plates and garnish with additional tarragon. Serve with lemon wedges.

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CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Caption 01: Photo by Lynda Balslev for TasteFood