Citrus rules in the winter, and lemons are king (or queen). This recipe embraces the lemon in a simple yet sumptuous dessert. A "fool" is a British dessert, traditionally prepared with custard and pureed fruit. Whipped cream is often substituted for the custard in popular variations.

Fools are a wonderful way to showcase seasonal fruit. In the spring and summer, berries, such as strawberries and raspberries, are mashed and folded into the cream. In the winter, citrus takes center stage in the form of a curd.

A fruit curd is a thick spread or sauce made with fruit, eggs, butter and sugar. A good curd is bright and puckery, so any fruits with a little zing or tartness, such as lemons, oranges, grapefruit and passion fruit are great contenders.

This fool is a billowy trifecta of whipped cream, Meyer lemon curd and crumbled meringue, unabashedly folded together and layered into a glass, parfait-style. The brilliant yellow curd ripples through the cream, providing a jolt of sweet and tangy citrus. Consider it a little sunshine in a glass.

Meyer lemons are at their peak in the winter months. They are brighter, sweeter and less acidic than Eureka lemons, which are more commonly found year-round. Eureka lemons can be substituted for the Meyer lemons.

Meyer Lemon Fools

Active time: 30 minutes

Total time: 30 minutes, plus chilling time

Yield: Makes 6 servings; 1 1/2 cups lemon curd

Lemon Curd:

4 large egg yolks

3/4 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cup fresh Meyer (or Eureka) lemon juice

1 tablespoon lemon zest

1/8 teaspoon kosher salt

5 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature

1 cup heavy cream

1 tablespoon powdered sugar

2 ounces prepared or store-bought vanilla meringues, about 6 (2-inch) meringues

Meyer lemon slices for garnish

Fill the bottom of a double boiler with 1 to 2 inches of water. Bring to a boil over medium high heat, then lower the heat to a bare simmer.

In the bowl of the double boiler, whisk the egg yolks, sugar, lemon juice, lemon zest and salt. Place over the bottom of the double boiler and cook over low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until the curd thickens and coats the back of the spoon (about the thickness of hollandaise sauce), 12 to 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk in the butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, stirring until the butter melts before the next addition. Transfer the curd to a glass jar and place a piece of plastic wrap on the surface to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours (or up to 1 week).

Beat the cream and sugar until soft peaks form. Add 1/4 cup curd and, using a spatula, gently fold into the cream, leaving some streaks of the curd visible. Crumble half of the meringues into the mixture.

Spoon a thin layer of remaining curd into the bottom of 6 (4- to 5-ounce) glasses or Mason jars and sprinkle a thin layer of crumbled meringues over the curd. Divide half of the cream between the glasses. Add a drizzle of lemon curd to each glass, then top with the remaining cream.

To serve, top each glass with a dab of lemon curd and a few pinches of crumbled meringues. Garnish with a lemon segment, if desired. Serve immediately.

581-7500

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Caption 01: Photo by Lynda Balslev for TasteFood

It’s a slow-cooking time of year, which calls for a meal like this: an aromatic pot of braised short ribs, blanketed in a richly fortified sauce, exuding warmth and comfort. This stew will satisfy any cravings for cozy, wintry food and focus your attention solely on the task of digging into this fragrant pot, one spoonful at a time.

I make variations of this recipe under the guise of other comfort-food standards, such as beef bourguignon and Irish stew. The ingredients shift slightly, but the principle is the same. Chunks of meat are seared brown on the stovetop, then submerged in a heady stock of wine, broth and spices. The pot is then banished to the oven for several hours to bubble and simmer until the meat is falling-apart tender and infused with the flavorful stock.

The keys to making this meaty stew are time and patience, which are requisite for the slow-cooking process. Ideally, you will exert even more time and patience by starting the dish one day in advance of serving. This way, the stew can chill overnight, further enriching its flavor and allowing the persnickety fat to rise to the top so that it can be deftly removed before rewarming.

This stew leans to the Southwest for inspiration, with chipotle peppers, cumin and coriander. Root vegetables team up with the meat, adding a touch of earthy sweetness. Note that this recipe calls for boneless short ribs; beef chuck can be substituted.

Chipotle Short Rib and Root Vegetable Stew

Active time: 30 minutes

Total time: 3 to 3 1/2 hours, plus optional overnight chilling time

Yield: Serves 4 to 6

2 1/2 to 3 pounds boneless short ribs, cut in 1 1/2- to 2-inch chunks

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 tablespoons olive oil, divided

1 large yellow onion, chopped

4 garlic cloves, chopped

1 teaspoon sweet paprika

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste

1 (750ml) bottle heavy-bodied red wine

2 cups beef stock or chicken stock

1/4 cup chipotles in adobo, chopped with juices

1 bay leaf

2 large carrots, peeled, thickly sliced

1 large turnip, cut into bite-size chunks (or 1 bunch baby turnips, trimmed and scrubbed)

1 medium rutabaga, peeled, cut into bite-size chunks

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon light brown sugar (optional)

Heat the oven to 300 degrees. Season the meat on all sides with salt and pepper.

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. In batches, without crowding the pan, brown the meat on all sides, about 8 minutes. (This step is very important, so take the time to do it well.) Transfer to a plate or bowl and repeat with the remaining meat.

Drain off the fat from the pot. Add 1 tablespoon oil, the onion and garlic and saute over medium heat until the onion softens, about 3 minutes, stirring up the brown bits in the pan with a wooden spoon. Add the paprika, cumin and coriander and cook until fragrant, about 15 seconds, stirring constantly. Add the tomato paste and continue to stir to slightly cook the paste and create a slurry, about 30 seconds.

Add the wine, stock, chipotles and bay leaf to the pot. Stir in the meat and any collected juices. If the meat is not completely submerged, add more stock or wine to cover. Bring to a boil, then turn off the heat. Cover the pot and transfer to the oven. Cook the stew until the meat is very tender, 2 1/2 to 3 hours, stirring every hour or so. Remove the pot from the oven.

(If making the recipe one day in advance, cool the stew, then cover the pot and refrigerate overnight. One hour before serving, remove the pot from the refrigerator and lift or scrape off the layer of fat on the surface. Gently reheat the braise over medium-low heat until the stock is liquid enough to remove the meat. Proceed to next step.)

Carefully remove the meat from the sauce and place in a bowl. Bring the sauce to a boil on the stovetop. Simmer, uncovered, over medium heat until it's reduced by about half and thickened to a rich sauce consistency, 12 to 15 minutes, skimming any fat as necessary.

While the sauce is reducing, heat 1 tablespoon oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the carrots, turnip and rutabaga and lightly season with salt. Saute until the vegetables are bright and crisp-tender, about 5 minutes.

Add the vegetables to the sauce along with the beef and any juices. Stir in the vinegar and season with salt and pepper. Taste for seasoning and add the sugar if desired. Simmer the stew over medium heat until the vegetables are al dente, about 10 minutes more. Serve warm.

581-7500

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Caption 01: Photo by Lynda Balslev for TasteFood

The bleaker the weather, the brighter the food, I say. It’s the new year, and January can be a cold, wet and dark second act following the holiday festivities. A perfect antidote is to create light and vibrant food to ward off the seasonal blues and balance out any celebratory excesses.

These Baja-inspired tacos piled with blackened shrimp channel the South, the border and beyond. They are vibrant and wholesome, not bogged down by any heavy sauces, cheeses or meat. A citrusy salsa and fresh avocado are light and healthy accompaniments, refreshing in their simplicity. The tacos are easy to prepare, requiring just a fair amount of chopping, which is a simple activity that distracts from any inclement weather outside. And, perhaps best of all, they are fun to eat, inviting interaction and hands-on noshing.

The blackened spice blend is meant to have heat, but feel free to adjust the cayenne to your taste. In fact, make a double batch to keep on hand to season fish and chicken for later meals. Store any remaining spice blend in a jar in your pantry.

Blackened Shrimp Tacos

Active time: 25 minutes

Total time: 25 minutes

Yield: Serves: 4

Crema:

2/3 cup whole-milk Greek yogurt

2 tablespoons mayonnaise

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

1 teaspoon Sriracha, or to taste

Pinch of kosher salt

Salsa:

1 cup grape tomatoes, chopped

1 cup defrosted frozen yellow corn

1 small poblano pepper, seeded, finely diced

1/2 small red onion, finely chopped

1/4 cup fresh cilantro leaves, chopped

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1 small garlic clove, minced

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Spices:

2 teaspoons smoked paprika

2 teaspoons sweet paprika

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

24 large (18/20) shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails intact optional

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

1 large ripe but firm avocado, halved, sliced crosswise

Flour or corn tortillas, warmed

Cilantro leaves for garnish

Lime wedges

Whisk the crema ingredients in a bowl. Refrigerate until use.

In a separate bowl, combine the salsa ingredients. Taste for seasoning.

Combine the spices in a small bowl. Toss the shrimp with 1 tablespoon oil in a large bowl. Add the spices and stir to thoroughly coat the shrimp.

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a cast-iron pan over medium heat. Carefully arrange the shrimp in one layer in the pan without overcrowding (in batches if necessary). Cook until charred and cooked through the center, about 4 minutes, turning once.

To serve, arrange a few slices of avocado on a warmed tortilla. Spoon some of the salsa over, then top with shrimp. Drizzle with some of the crema. Garnish with cilantro and serve with the lime wedges for squeezing.

581-7500

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS