health

Never Underestimate a Pound Cake

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | April 4th, 2022

It’s time for a little comfort, and here is a sweet fix. Pound cakes are the pleasing plain-Janes of desserts: figurative no-nonsense confections that provide a welcome pick-me-up without wandering into sugary oblivion. In a world of bling and excess, these cakes are not to be underestimated. Their simplicity is their appeal, humbly playing it straight and ordinary, with no need to primp and accessorize.

A pound cake was traditionally constructed of a pound each of butter, sugar, eggs and flour (hence its name), which yielded an exceptionally large cake. Over time, the ingredients ratio has shifted and reduced according to preference, conveniently producing a single loaf or Bundt cake. Subtle tweaks and discreet flourishes are sometimes added, such as a dash of spice, a sprinkle of citrus zest, a shower of confectioners' sugar or a drizzle of syrup. Adjustments and additions aside, in the end, the pound cake remains an unfailingly predictable and pleasing treat.

This recipe celebrates the end of the blood orange season. Any citrus is delicious in a pound cake, which is a natural canvas for the spark of citrus. Blood oranges are murkier and less bright than their navel brethren and add a deeper, fruity flavor to the cake. To match this depth, I swapped out some of the granulated sugar with light brown sugar and combined almond meal (flour) with all-purpose flour, yielding a denser, nuttier cake.

Blood Orange Pound Cake

Active time: 15 minutes

Total time: 1 hour and 15 minutes

Yield: Makes one loaf

Cake:

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 cup almond meal

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 cup unsalted butter, softened

1/2 cup sugar

1/2 cup packed light brown sugar

3 large eggs

1/4 cup sour cream

Zest of 2 blood oranges

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Syrup:

1/4 cup blood orange juice

1/4 cup sugar

Pinch of kosher salt

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter a loaf pan and line the bottom with parchment.

Combine the flour, almond meal, baking powder and salt in a bowl and stir to blend.

In a bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, mix the butter and sugars until light and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at time, mixing well after each addition. Add the sour cream, orange zest and vanilla and mix to combine. Add the flour mixture, and using a wooden spoon, mix to blend without overmixing.

Spoon the batter into the prepared loaf pan and smooth the top. Bake in the oven until a wooden skewer comes clean, about 1 hour.

While the cake is baking, heat the syrup ingredients over medium-low heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar.

When the cake is ready, remove from the oven and transfer to a rack. Prick the top of the cake with a wooden skewer and brush with some of the syrup. Cool 10 minutes, then remove the cake from the pan. Brush the cake on all sides with the syrup. Cool completely.

Serve dusted with confectioners' sugar or whipped cream.

581-7500

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health

Spotlight on Puttanesca

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | March 28th, 2022

Pasta puttanesca is a southern Italian dish that hails from Naples in the Campania region. Puttanesca refers to the potent tomato sauce that brims with black olives, red chiles, capers and anchovies. It’s safe to say that this dish is no shrinking violet, as its name might suggest (puttana is the Italian word for "whore"), and indeed this sauce is salty, briny, spicy and vibrant.

There’s no denying puttanesca sauce goes exceedingly well with pasta. It’s also a wonderful condiment that is more than a fiery addition to spaghetti. Use it as a vibrant ragout; ladle it over fish, such as swordfish or halibut; or use it as a bed for garlicky shrimp. Dollop it on grilled steak and chicken, or add a drizzle to eggs. Even a smear on crostini will stand in for an easy appetizer in a pinch.

You can count on this sauce as a year-round kitchen staple. While tomatoes at their peak of season are always a desirable ingredient, there’s no issue with using packaged grape or cherry tomatoes in the off-season. Just cook them down to a sludgy consistency and let the other ingredients deliver their wallop of flavors. This recipe does just that.

It takes inspiration from the traditional puttanesca sauce with a liberty or two -- namely, an extra dash of sweetness to boost the flavor of supermarket tomatoes. A simple splash of balsamic vinegar and orange juice provides the extra kick. I encourage you to taste as you go and add these two ingredients in the end as needed.

Puttanesca Sauce

Active time: 20 minutes

Total time: 20 minutes

Yield: Makes about 1 1/2 cups

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 pound grape or cherry tomatoes, halved

2 garlic cloves, minced

1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1/4 cup cured black olives, pitted, finely chopped

1 to 2 anchovies, mashed

1 tablespoon drained capers

1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano or 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar

1 to 2 teaspoons fresh orange juice (optional)

Heat the oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the tomatoes and cook until they break down, 6 to 8 minutes, stirring often. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and stir until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the olives, anchovies, capers, oregano and black pepper and cook for 2 minutes, stirring frequently. Taste for seasoning -- you may or may not need salt, due to the saltiness of the ingredients.

Stir in the balsamic vinegar and taste again. If too tart, add the orange juice. Remove from the heat and cool to allow the flavors to develop. Refrigerate for up to 2 days.

581-7500

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health

Pasta Spring Fling

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | March 21st, 2022

Morels, asparagus and peas team up in this quintessential springtime pasta dish. Earthy mushrooms marry well with early asparagus and sweet peas. Famously delicious in sauces, risottos and pasta, these ingredients require little else except a nap of cream and a sprinkling of cheese to bind them together, resulting in an easy yet elegant seasonal meal.

In this recipe, chicken stock joins in, adding flavor and lightening up the rich sauce. Blanched and peeled fava beans are equally delicious and can be substituted for the peas. If you are unable to find fresh morel mushrooms, which are fleeting and pricey, dried ones will do. Simply reconstitute the dried mushrooms in hot water for 15 minutes, then strain. Discard the soaking liquid.

Linguine With Asparagus, Morels and Peas

Active time: 30 minutes

Total time: 30 minutes

Yield: Serves 4

8 ounces asparagus, tough ends trimmed, stalks cut in 1-inch pieces

1/2 cup shelled fresh peas (see note)

12 ounces linguine

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1/3 pound fresh morel mushrooms, cleaned, halved lengthwise (or 1 ounce dried morels, reconstituted in hot water)

Kosher salt

1 garlic clove, minced

3/4 cup heavy cream

1/2 cup chicken stock

1/4 cup packed finely grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for sprinkling

Freshly ground black pepper

Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a boil. Add the asparagus and shelled fresh peas and blanch until the vegetables are bright green in color and crisp-tender, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove the vegetables with a slotted spoon or spider strainer and refresh under cold water to stop the cooking process. Set aside.

Bring the water back to a boil. Add the linguine and cook for 1 minute less than package instructions for al dente. Set aside 1/2 cup of the cooking liquid and drain the pasta.

While the pasta is cooking, melt the butter with the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the morels and season with a generous pinch of salt. Saute until the morels are tender, 2 to 3 minutes, then add the garlic and saute until fragrant, about 30 seconds more. Pour in the cream and stock. Simmer until slightly thickened, 5 to 6 minutes, stirring constantly. Stir in half of the cheese until melted and the sauce thickens, about 2 minutes more.

Add the asparagus, peas and drained pasta to the skillet and warm over medium-low heat for about 1 minute, stirring and tossing constantly to combine. If the pasta is too dry, add a little reserved cooking liquid. Divide the pasta between serving bowls. Grind black pepper over the bowls and serve with the remaining cheese for sprinkling.

Note: Defrosted frozen peas may be substituted for the fresh peas. If using defrosted frozen peas, do not blanch with the asparagus. Simply add the peas to the cream sauce with the asparagus and pasta.

581-7500

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