As noted, I view January as bowl-food month. Therefore, I shall close out the month with an ambitious stew. I won’t lie -- it’s a bit of a project. But hey, since many of us are homebound and hunkering down, why not roll up our sleeves and have some fun with this recipe?

I am a big fan of chowders and cioppinos, as you may have noticed, and I created this recipe with the deliberate intention of layering a stew with big bites, flavors and textures. It’s winter, after all, which is the season of layering: layers of clothing, layers of bedding, and layers of nourishing ingredients in our meals.

This stew is the sum of its parts. Each ingredient stands out, yet complements the whole, with a balance of sweet, smoke, heat and brine. Each ingredient is addressed separately before uniting in the pot, taking care to prevent a mushy muddle.

Smoky chorizo slices are browned first for char and flavor, then set aside to prevent softening and dullness in color by overcooking in the soup. Their legacy -- flavorful oil -- remains in the pot to infuse the stew with heat and smoke. Planks of butternut squash are then sauteed in the oil to lightly caramelize and coax out their sweetness. They, too, are set aside and added in the end, to avoid turning mushy while preserving their brilliant saffron color.

The stock continues to develop with the usual suspects (aromatics, wine, tomato), and then the clams are added. As the clams simmer, their shells open, releasing their briny juice into the stock. The ingredients reunite, and the stew is topped with fried oyster croutons, spiked with Sriracha, adding a crispy playful bite. A cooling dollop of saffron-scented aioli adds a creamy finish.

Smoky Clam and Chorizo Stew With Butternut Squash and Fried Oyster Croutons

This is a big one-bowl meal. While it’s labeled a stew, it’s meant to be dug into with a fork, possibly a knife, and, of course, a spoon.

Active time: 1 hour and 15 minutes

Total time: 1 hour and 15 minutes

Yield: Serves 4

Aioli:

1/2 cup homemade or good-quality mayonnaise

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon Sriracha or hot sauce

Generous pinch of saffron threads

Oyster Croutons:

12 to 16 shucked oysters

1 cup buttermilk

1 teaspoon Sriracha or hot sauce

1 cup cornmeal

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Stew:

Extra-virgin olive oil

12 ounces Spanish-style chorizo sausage, sliced 1/2-inch thick

1 small butternut squash, peeled and seeded, cut in 1-inch squares about 1/2-inch thick

1 medium yellow onion, chopped

1 large roasted red bell pepper, peeled and seeded, drained well if jarred, chopped

2 large garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1/2 cup dry white wine, such as sauvignon blanc

1 (28-ounce) can Italian plum tomatoes, with juice

1 bay leaf

12 to 16 Manila or middleneck clams

1 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste

Freshly ground black pepper

Vegetable oil for frying

Chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves for garnish

Whisk the aioli ingredients in a small bowl and refrigerate util use.

Place the oysters in a bowl. Whisk the buttermilk and Sriracha in a separate bowl, then pour over the oysters to cover and set aside. Whisk the cornmeal, flour, salt and pepper in another bowl and set aside.

Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a deep skillet or wide pot over medium-high heat. Add the sausage slices and brown on both sides, about 6 minutes. Transfer the sausage to a plate lined with a paper towel. Add the squash to the skillet, in batches if necessary, and pan-fry in the sausage oil until tender but still firm and lightly charred on both sides, 5 to 6 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

If the pan is dry, add 1 tablespoon olive oil. Add the onion and saute until slightly softened, about 3 minutes. Add the roasted red pepper and garlic and saute about 1 minute more. Stir in the tomato paste, paprika, thyme and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring, for about 1 minute. Pour in the wine to deglaze the pan, and reduce by about half, scraping up any brown bits. Add the tomatoes and bay leaf. Simmer, uncovered, until slightly thickened, 15 to 20 minutes, breaking up the tomatoes with a wooden spoon.

Add the clams to the stew. Cover the skillet and cook until the clam shells open, 8 to 10 minutes, depending on the size. (Discard any unopened clam shells.) Season to taste with salt and black pepper.

While the stew is simmering, fill a large heavy saucepan with 2 inches of vegetable oil. Heat over medium-high heat until a deep fry thermometer reads 350 degrees.

Remove the oysters from the buttermilk, shaking off any excess liquid. Dredge in the corn flour. Fry in batches, without overcrowding, until golden and crispy, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain on a plate lined with a paper towel.

Ladle the stew into warm serving bowls. Top each bowl with 3 to 4 oysters. Spoon a little saffron aioli into the center of the soup. Garnish with parsley. Serve immediately.

581-7500

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

It’s wanderlust time, and this year it’s a doozy. Thanks to the seasonal convergence of cabin fever, post-holiday decompression and (elephant in the room) pent-up travel cravings, the urge to flee to a far-flung destination is all-consuming. Dreams of leaving the careful confines of our homes and comfort of our fleece jammies (which we now refer to as Day Clothes) tease and distract. Yet, real life persists, and we refrain from jumping on an airplane, as our dreams also happen to collide with practical matters, such as work, school, weather and, yes, a healthy dose of caution.

So why not improvise and bring travel home to your kitchen? Tuck away the passport, hold off on booking a reservation, and turn to your spice cabinet and a cookbook (much less expensive than a plane ticket) for relief and cultural inspiration. It won’t be the same as a long-haul vacation, of course, but at least you can stay in your pajamas.

Today, we travel to Morocco. This stew is fragrant and meaty, softly sweetened with figs, heady with harissa, and redolent with ras el hanout, which is a North African spice blend consisting of an entire shelf of spices, including cinnamon, cardamom, turmeric, ginger and clove. Ras el hanout is an Arabic term that means head of the shop or best on offer.

The blend will vary from cook to cook, or merchant to merchant, and can contain upward of 50 spices. It’s an essential ingredient to the deep and rich flavor of this stew. You don’t need 50 spices to make your own blend, and most likely you have many of the key spices at home, so I’ve included a recipe below to make your own. Otherwise, you can purchase ras el hanout in the spice aisle of well-stocked supermarkets.

North African Lamb Stew With Figs and Chickpeas

Active time: 30 minutes

Total time: 3 to 3 1/2 hours

Yield: Serves 6

2 1/2 to 3 pounds boneless lamb leg, excess fat trimmed, cut in 1 1/2- to 2-inch chunks

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large onion, chopped

1 large carrot, chopped

3 garlic cloves, chopped

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1/2 teaspoon ground paprika

1 (14-ounce) can Italian plum tomatoes with juice

2 cups chicken stock

12 dried Turkish figs, halved

1 (2-inch) cinnamon stick

2 teaspoons ras el hanout (recipe below)

1 (14-ounce) can chickpeas, drained

1 tablespoon brown sugar

1 tablespoon harissa or red chili paste

Chopped fresh cilantro leaves for garnish

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Generously season the lamb with salt and pepper.

Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large Dutch oven or ovenproof pot with lid over medium-high heat. Add the lamb in batches, taking care not to overcrowd the pan, and brown well on all sides. Transfer the lamb to a bowl.

Pour off all but 1 tablespoon fat from the pot (or add 1 tablespoon oil). Add the onion and carrot and saute until soft, about 3 minutes, stirring up any brown bits. Add the garlic and ginger and saute until fragrant, about 30 seconds, then stir in the cumin, coriander and paprika, and stir for 15 to 30 seconds to lightly toast the spices.

Add the lamb and any collected juices, the tomatoes, stock, figs, cinnamon stick, ras el hanout, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper. The lamb should be submerged in the stock. If not, add additional stock to cover.

Bring to a simmer, cover the pot, and transfer to the oven. Cook until the lamb is very tender, 2 to 2 1/2 hours, stirring occasionally. Transfer to the stovetop and stir in the chickpeas, brown sugar and harissa. Simmer over medium heat for 5 to 10 minutes, then taste for seasoning.

Ladle into bowls. Serve garnished with fresh cilantro.

Ras El Hanout

Makes scant 1/2 cup

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

1 tablespoon ground coriander

1 tablespoon ground nutmeg

2 teaspoons allspice

2 teaspoons ground cumin

2 teaspoons ground ginger

2 teaspoons ground turmeric

2 teaspoons ground black pepper

2 teaspoons ground cardamom

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

1/2 teaspoon ground cayenne

Combine all the spices together in a bowl and mix well. Store in a glass jar in a cool, dark place for up to 3 months.

581-7500

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

It’s citrus season, and there’s no better way to embrace it than with blood oranges. Despite their graphic name, blood oranges are sweet, delectable and unique. They are smaller than standard oranges, with mottled orange and rose-hued rinds. When peeled, their interior reveals segments streaked in brilliant crimson, ruby and port wine colors -- hence their name.

Blood oranges are packed with vitamins C and A and contain a compound called anthocyanin, which is a powerful antioxidant that makes their flesh their signature color. (It’s the same compound that turns blueberries and blackberries blue and purple, and cranberries and cabbage red.) The flavor of the orange is seductively murky, wine-y, and understatedly sweet, with less brightness and acidity than navel oranges.

The unique flavor of blood orange lends well to desserts, syrups, cocktails and sauces. In this recipe, it provides a wonderful contrast to the creamy sweetness of creme brulee. A layer of blood orange curd, punctuated with a pop of sea salt, provides the base to the custard as well as a fresh -- and colorful -- surprise when dipped into with a spoon. A Cointreau-blood orange supreme finishes the custard as an optional garnish. (Supreme is a French method to segment citrus fruit by neatly removing the pith and membranes.)

Yes, the holiday season is behind us, but that should not deter us from making an impressive dessert. This recipe takes some time to prepare, but each component can be made in advance of serving. Consider it a fun weekend project. The results will brighten any winter doldrums and provide a perfect excuse to invite a few friends over for a cozy and convivial gathering.

Blood Orange Creme Brulee

Active Time: 45 minutes

Total Time: 1 hour and 20 minutes, plus cooling time

Yield: Makes 6 servings

Blood Orange Curd:

4 large egg yolks

2/3 cup sugar

1/2 cup strained fresh blood orange juice

1/4 cup unsalted butter, softened

1/8 teaspoon sea salt

Custard:

6 large egg yolks

2/3 cup granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 cups heavy cream

Topping:

3 tablespoons granulated sugar

3 tablespoons light brown sugar

Pinch of sea salt

Make the curd:

Place the yolks, sugar and juice in the pot of a double boiler placed over simmering water. Whisk to blend and continue to stir with a wooden spoon until the mixture thickens and coats the back of the spoon, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk in the butter and salt until melted.

Pour the curd into a glass container. Line the top of the curd with plastic wrap to prevent a skin from forming and cool to room temperature. The curd will continue to thicken as it cools. (The curd can be prepared up to 3 days before using.)

Make the custard:

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Arrange six (6-ounce) ramekins in a baking dish.

Spoon a layer of chilled curd into the ramekins, about 1/4 inch deep.

Whisk the egg yolks, sugar, and vanilla until light and fluffy.

Heat the cream in a large saucepan over medium heat until it just begins to boil. Remove from the heat and add the cream to the egg mixture in a steady stream, whisking gently to blend. Pour the custard back into the saucepan and cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the custard thickens slightly and coats the back of the spoon, about 5 minutes.

Ladle the custard into the ramekins. Pour boiling water into the baking dish halfway up the ramekins to make a water bath (bain marie).

Transfer the baking dish to the oven and bake until the custards are just set but still a bit jiggly, 35 to 40 minutes. (If the tops begin to brown before set, loosely cover the baking dish with parchment paper or aluminum foil.)

Transfer the baking dish to a wire rack and cool the custards in the water for 15 minutes. Remove the ramekins from the pan and cool completely on the rack. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or overnight.

Before serving, mix the granulated sugar, brown sugar and salt together in a small bowl. Sprinkle each ramekin evenly with the sugar to cover. Light a blowtorch and hold the flame 2 to 3 inches above the custard, slowly moving it back and forth until the sugar melts and turns deep golden brown. (Alternatively, place the ramekins on a baking sheet and broil under an oven broiler until the tops are deep golden brown, carefully watching to prevent burning.) Let stand for about 5 minutes to allow the top to harden. Serve with the blood orange supreme (recipe below).

Blood Orange Supreme:

2 blood oranges, segmented

2 teaspoons Cointreau or orange-flavored liqueur

1 teaspoon sugar

Using a chef’s knife or paring knife, cut the top and base from each orange. Stand the orange on the cutting board and cut away the skin and pith, making sure that all the white pith is removed. Using a paring knife, cut along the membranes to lift out and release the orange segments. Place the segments in a bowl. Sprinkle the Cointreau and sugar over and stir to combine. Let stand for at least 30 minutes or refrigerate overnight. Use segments to garnish creme brulee dishes.

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CAPTIONS AND CREDITS