I am a little late to the ricotta party. For a long while, this Italian whey cheese has been relegated solely to lasagnas and other filled pasta dishes. Aside from that, ricotta has not played a role in much of my cooking. This is likely due to unfortunate first impressions, the ho-hum results of part-skim varieties that tend to be watery, grainy and lacking in character.

More recently, however, I began dabbling in using fresh ricotta, and it’s been revelatory. The difference between a skimmed and watered-down version versus a high-quality whole-milk ricotta or a hand-dipped artisan ricotta (besides a few extra dollars) is a worlds-apart creamy, sweet and milky cheese, urging consumption. To which I obliged, and started experimenting with different recipes. And then I whipped it.

Apparently, whipped ricotta has been a thing, but, as I mentioned, I am late to the party. Thank goodness I arrived. Whipping ricotta transforms this creamy, slightly grainy cheese into an ethereal spreadable cheese, which is sweet and mild and very receptive to additional ingredients, such as olive oil, honey, fresh herbs, salt and pepper. It’s a protein-rich alternative to whipped cream, creme fraiche, yogurt, sour cream, and even a dollop of ice cream on top of dessert.

To whip ricotta, use a dense, creamy whole-milk ricotta that smells dairy-fresh and tastes milky and mildly sweet. Avoid watery, grainy, part-skim ricotta and any that has a funky aroma.

Sweet Whipped Ricotta

Yield: Makes 1 cup

Combine 1 cup whole-milk ricotta, 1 tablespoon honey, 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice and an optional pinch of lemon zest in a food processor and process until light and smooth. Taste for seasoning and add more honey if desired. Serve as a substitute for whipped cream, creme fraiche or ice cream with fresh fruit and baked desserts.

Savory Whipped Ricotta

Yield: Makes 1 cup

Combine 1 cup whole-milk ricotta, 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, 1/4 teaspoon salt and a grind or two of black pepper in a food processor. Process until light and smooth and taste for seasoning. If you like, add a generous pinch of finely grated fresh lemon zest. Spread the ricotta in a bowl and use as a dip for crudites and bread. Stir it into cooked pasta dishes as a creamy sauce. Smear it on bruschetta or garlic toasts and top with sliced figs or stone fruit, a drizzle of honey and lemon zest, or your other favorite toppings. Spoon a dollop on cooked pizzas, roasted vegetables and salads, such as the following beet salad.

Roasted Beet and Spring Green Salad With Whipped Ricotta

The beets will release their juices while roasting, which will mix with the olive oil that creates the base for vinaigrette.

Active Time: 20 minutes

Total Time: 1 hour and 20 minutes, plus cooling time

Yield: Serves 4

3 bunches small or baby beets, 10 to 12, ends and stems trimmed, scrubbed clean

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

4 ounces mixed spring greens, such as arugula, mache, baby spinach, miners lettuce, frisee

1 cup Savory Whipped Ricotta

Lemon zest, for garnish

Heat the oven to 400 degrees.

Place the beets in a large Dutch oven. Pour in the oil, stir to coat, and lightly season with salt. Cover the pot, transfer to the oven, and roast the beets until tender when pierced with a knife, about 1 hour. Remove and cool, uncovered, in the pot.

When cool enough to handle, peel the beets and cut into large bite-size chunks. Do not discard the oil from the pot. Place the beets in a bowl with 1 tablespoon of the cooking oil, and lightly season with salt and pepper. Cool to room temperature or refrigerate until chilled (the beets may be prepared up to one day in advance).

Pour the remaining cooking oil into a bowl (through a strainer if desired). Whisk in the vinegar, lemon juice and a pinch of salt to taste.

To assemble the salad, arrange a layer of mixed spring greens on serving plates. Lightly drizzle with some of the vinaigrette. Mound the beets on the greens and top with a dollop of the whipped ricotta. Garnish with lemon zest and black pepper. Serve with the remaining vinaigrette for drizzling.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

There is more to tuna than the mayo-based sandwich filler. In fact, if there is one fish that can handle a robust marinade and the fire of the grill, it would be tuna. Tuna is thick and dense, and it holds its shape while you take the time to sear it golden brown. The key is choosing which kind of tuna is best to use.

There are a number of types of tuna available, from albacore and skipjack (which are popular candidates for canning) to meatier bluefin tuna and ahi (also known as yellowfin), which are excellent fish choices for grilling. Bluefin, with its dark, meaty color and flavor, is the king of tuna -- and the priciest. Ahi is the next best option and my favorite. It’s slightly less expensive, milder in flavor and paler in color than bluefin, with a deep rose hue that browns with cooking. This is the tuna you will find served raw and cut into small cubes in the Hawaiian poke bowls. Ahi is also delicious when seared and grilled.

Now, when talking about big fish, it’s important to talk about health. With many big fish at the top of the food chain, such as tuna and swordfish, there will be increased amounts of mercury in the flesh. Ahi has a lower amount of mercury than bluefin. It’s labeled a “good choice” to eat one serving a week by the FDA, and a “good alternative” by The Monterey Seafood Watch. (See links for further information below.)

This is my go-to recipe for searing and grilling ahi tuna. It’s inspired by an Epicurious recipe I found years ago, and since then I’ve modified it slightly to my taste. I like to use a flat, not ridged, griddle when grilling the skewers, which provides more surface area to sear the fish. Alternatively, you can sear the skewers in a large cast iron pan over medium-high heat on the stove.

Grilled Ahi Tuna Skewers

Active Time: 30 minutes

Total Time: 30 minutes, plus marinating time

Yield: Serves 4 to 6

Marinade:

3 tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar

3 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil

2 tablespoons light brown sugar or honey

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 tablespoon finely grated peeled fresh ginger

1 garlic clove, minced

2 teaspoons Sriracha

2 pounds ahi tuna, cut into 1- to 1 1/4-inch chunks

1 large red bell pepper, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 large yellow onion, cut into 1-inch chunks

Vegetable oil

Fresh cilantro for garnish

Whisk the marinade ingredients in a bowl to blend and to dissolve the sugar. Set aside 1/4 cup for brushing.

Place the tuna chunks in a large bowl. Pour in the marinade and stir to coat. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour.

Thread the tuna on pre-soaked bamboo skewers, alternating with pepper and onion pieces. Lightly brush the vegetables with some of the reserved marinade. Let the skewers stand at room temperature while you prepare the grill.

Prepare the grill for direct cooking over medium heat and preheat a griddle for 10 minutes. Lightly oil the griddle. Arrange the skewers on the griddle, in batches as necessary, and cook to your desired doneness, turning to evenly color, 5 to 6 minutes for medium-rare. Transfer to a plate and brush with some of the reserved sauce. Garnish with cilantro and serve with the remaining sauce for drizzling.

For more information about fish nutrition and safety:

www.fda.gov/media/102331/download

seafoodwatch.org

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

I work from home, and while it’s how I’ve always worked, it still presents a few challenges. Namely, structure and discipline. One trick I rely on is to schedule a lunch break. Easy to say, but the ritual of leaving the desk, moving into another room, and, most important, stepping away from the screen, can be difficult.

I find if I have prepped a lunch ahead of time, it reinforces the lunchtime ritual and provides incentive to move out of the bedroom or living room-cum-office and take a break. I don’t have to be bothered with deciding what to eat at the last minute, or daydreaming about it throughout the morning, so when I am suddenly famished and likely to graze and snack to quickly fill the void, I can reach instead for my pre-packed lunch.

This is a perfect do-ahead salad, easily stored in a container -- or portioned into separate containers. Once the ingredients are prepped, it comes together quickly and doesn’t mind a little refrigerator time. It can pass for lunch or dinner, so make a full portion and enjoy it over a day or two.

I have made renditions of this salad for years. The ingredients are flexible and welcome leftovers. I like to use shrimp, shredded cooked chicken, strips of steak -- even tofu can step in as a substitute. This recipe includes my favorite vegetables -- brightly blanched broccolini florets, crispy carrots and juicy, cool cucumbers add sweetness, texture and color to this dish. Red bell peppers, sugar snap peas and bean sprouts are also great additions.

A sweet, salty, spicy peanut dressing, bright with lime, is the perfect binder to the salad. I make a little extra, so there’s more to drizzle over individual servings or to use as a dip for veggies (which is a perfect snack for your mid-afternoon break).

Vietnamese Shrimp and Broccolini Bowl

Active Time: 20 minutes

Total Time: 20 minutes

Yield: Serves 4

Dressing:

1/4 cup grapeseed or canola oil

3 tablespoons creamy peanut butter

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon finely grated peeled fresh ginger

1 garlic clove, minced

1 tablespoon runny honey

1 teaspoon Sriracha

Salad:

1 pound large (18/20) shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails intact optional

Salt

3/4 pound broccolini

8 ounces stir-fry rice noodles

1 medium carrot, cut in matchsticks

1/2 English cucumber, seeded, cut in matchsticks

3 scallions, ends trimmed, white and green parts sliced on the diagonal

1/4 cup fresh cilantro leaves and tender sprigs, coarsely chopped

1/4 cup fresh mint leaves, chopped

1 to 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds

Whisk all of the dressing ingredients in a bowl.

Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil. Add the shrimp and immediately remove the pan from the heat. Let the shrimp poach until bright in color and opaque through the centers, about 4 minutes. Drain and blot the shrimp dry with a paper towel. Lightly season with salt and set aside.

Cut the florets from the broccolini, 1 1/2 to 2 inches in length. Reserve the stalks for another use.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the rice noodles and cook until al dente, per package instructions. Add the broccolini florets to the cooking water and stir until brightened in color, about 15 seconds more. Drain the noodles and broccolini at once and run under cold water to stop the cooking process. Drain thoroughly.

Combine the rice noodles, broccolini, carrot, cucumber and scallions in a large bowl. Add half of the dressing and toss to thoroughly coat. Add the shrimp, cilantro, mint and 1 tablespoon sesame seeds and stir again to coat, adding more dressing to your taste. (The salad made be prepared 1 day in advance of serving and refrigerated in an airtight container.) Serve garnished with additional cilantro and sesame seeds.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS