health

Tuna Loves the Grill

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | May 3rd, 2021

There is more to tuna than the mayo-based sandwich filler. In fact, if there is one fish that can handle a robust marinade and the fire of the grill, it would be tuna. Tuna is thick and dense, and it holds its shape while you take the time to sear it golden brown. The key is choosing which kind of tuna is best to use.

There are a number of types of tuna available, from albacore and skipjack (which are popular candidates for canning) to meatier bluefin tuna and ahi (also known as yellowfin), which are excellent fish choices for grilling. Bluefin, with its dark, meaty color and flavor, is the king of tuna -- and the priciest. Ahi is the next best option and my favorite. It’s slightly less expensive, milder in flavor and paler in color than bluefin, with a deep rose hue that browns with cooking. This is the tuna you will find served raw and cut into small cubes in the Hawaiian poke bowls. Ahi is also delicious when seared and grilled.

Now, when talking about big fish, it’s important to talk about health. With many big fish at the top of the food chain, such as tuna and swordfish, there will be increased amounts of mercury in the flesh. Ahi has a lower amount of mercury than bluefin. It’s labeled a “good choice” to eat one serving a week by the FDA, and a “good alternative” by The Monterey Seafood Watch. (See links for further information below.)

This is my go-to recipe for searing and grilling ahi tuna. It’s inspired by an Epicurious recipe I found years ago, and since then I’ve modified it slightly to my taste. I like to use a flat, not ridged, griddle when grilling the skewers, which provides more surface area to sear the fish. Alternatively, you can sear the skewers in a large cast iron pan over medium-high heat on the stove.

Grilled Ahi Tuna Skewers

Active Time: 30 minutes

Total Time: 30 minutes, plus marinating time

Yield: Serves 4 to 6

Marinade:

3 tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar

3 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil

2 tablespoons light brown sugar or honey

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 tablespoon finely grated peeled fresh ginger

1 garlic clove, minced

2 teaspoons Sriracha

2 pounds ahi tuna, cut into 1- to 1 1/4-inch chunks

1 large red bell pepper, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 large yellow onion, cut into 1-inch chunks

Vegetable oil

Fresh cilantro for garnish

Whisk the marinade ingredients in a bowl to blend and to dissolve the sugar. Set aside 1/4 cup for brushing.

Place the tuna chunks in a large bowl. Pour in the marinade and stir to coat. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour.

Thread the tuna on pre-soaked bamboo skewers, alternating with pepper and onion pieces. Lightly brush the vegetables with some of the reserved marinade. Let the skewers stand at room temperature while you prepare the grill.

Prepare the grill for direct cooking over medium heat and preheat a griddle for 10 minutes. Lightly oil the griddle. Arrange the skewers on the griddle, in batches as necessary, and cook to your desired doneness, turning to evenly color, 5 to 6 minutes for medium-rare. Transfer to a plate and brush with some of the reserved sauce. Garnish with cilantro and serve with the remaining sauce for drizzling.

For more information about fish nutrition and safety:

www.fda.gov/media/102331/download

seafoodwatch.org

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

health

A Perfect Work-From-Home Lunch

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | April 26th, 2021

I work from home, and while it’s how I’ve always worked, it still presents a few challenges. Namely, structure and discipline. One trick I rely on is to schedule a lunch break. Easy to say, but the ritual of leaving the desk, moving into another room, and, most important, stepping away from the screen, can be difficult.

I find if I have prepped a lunch ahead of time, it reinforces the lunchtime ritual and provides incentive to move out of the bedroom or living room-cum-office and take a break. I don’t have to be bothered with deciding what to eat at the last minute, or daydreaming about it throughout the morning, so when I am suddenly famished and likely to graze and snack to quickly fill the void, I can reach instead for my pre-packed lunch.

This is a perfect do-ahead salad, easily stored in a container -- or portioned into separate containers. Once the ingredients are prepped, it comes together quickly and doesn’t mind a little refrigerator time. It can pass for lunch or dinner, so make a full portion and enjoy it over a day or two.

I have made renditions of this salad for years. The ingredients are flexible and welcome leftovers. I like to use shrimp, shredded cooked chicken, strips of steak -- even tofu can step in as a substitute. This recipe includes my favorite vegetables -- brightly blanched broccolini florets, crispy carrots and juicy, cool cucumbers add sweetness, texture and color to this dish. Red bell peppers, sugar snap peas and bean sprouts are also great additions.

A sweet, salty, spicy peanut dressing, bright with lime, is the perfect binder to the salad. I make a little extra, so there’s more to drizzle over individual servings or to use as a dip for veggies (which is a perfect snack for your mid-afternoon break).

Vietnamese Shrimp and Broccolini Bowl

Active Time: 20 minutes

Total Time: 20 minutes

Yield: Serves 4

Dressing:

1/4 cup grapeseed or canola oil

3 tablespoons creamy peanut butter

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon finely grated peeled fresh ginger

1 garlic clove, minced

1 tablespoon runny honey

1 teaspoon Sriracha

Salad:

1 pound large (18/20) shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails intact optional

Salt

3/4 pound broccolini

8 ounces stir-fry rice noodles

1 medium carrot, cut in matchsticks

1/2 English cucumber, seeded, cut in matchsticks

3 scallions, ends trimmed, white and green parts sliced on the diagonal

1/4 cup fresh cilantro leaves and tender sprigs, coarsely chopped

1/4 cup fresh mint leaves, chopped

1 to 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds

Whisk all of the dressing ingredients in a bowl.

Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil. Add the shrimp and immediately remove the pan from the heat. Let the shrimp poach until bright in color and opaque through the centers, about 4 minutes. Drain and blot the shrimp dry with a paper towel. Lightly season with salt and set aside.

Cut the florets from the broccolini, 1 1/2 to 2 inches in length. Reserve the stalks for another use.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the rice noodles and cook until al dente, per package instructions. Add the broccolini florets to the cooking water and stir until brightened in color, about 15 seconds more. Drain the noodles and broccolini at once and run under cold water to stop the cooking process. Drain thoroughly.

Combine the rice noodles, broccolini, carrot, cucumber and scallions in a large bowl. Add half of the dressing and toss to thoroughly coat. Add the shrimp, cilantro, mint and 1 tablespoon sesame seeds and stir again to coat, adding more dressing to your taste. (The salad made be prepared 1 day in advance of serving and refrigerated in an airtight container.) Serve garnished with additional cilantro and sesame seeds.

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health

Put a Little Primavera in Your Step

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | April 19th, 2021

Spring is here, and it’s time to celebrate by adding a little freshness and lightness to your favorite year-round dishes, such as risottos and pasta. Primavera means springtime in Italian, but pasta primavera, while Italian in name, has American roots. It was created in the '70s in the famous New York restaurant Le Cirque, and it embraces the season with fresh vegetables and herbs enveloped in a lemony cream sauce. This risotto takes inspiration from pasta primavera, with fresh asparagus and peas studding the rice, along with sweet briny shrimp and juicy Meyer lemon.

When making risotto, remember these simple but important rules for best results. Always purchase arborio rice, which is known for its high starch content. The starch will be “agitated” while stirring the rice, which yields a delicious creamy risotto. The rice grains should be lightly toasted in the pan before adding any liquid. This step protects the grains from bursting while cooking. And be sure to stir the risotto constantly -- or nearly constantly -- while cooking to prevent it from sticking and to help the rice release its starch.

This recipe specifies fresh shelled peas, but defrosted frozen peas may be substituted. If using defrosted frozen peas, do not include them when cooking the asparagus. Instead, add them to the risotto at the end of cooking along with the cooked asparagus and shrimp.

Shrimp Risotto Primavera

Active Time: about 45 minutes

Total Time: about 45 minutes

Yield: Serves 4

6 cups chicken stock

3/4 pound asparagus, ends trimmed, cut into bite-size pieces

1/2 cup fresh shelled peas

Extra-virgin olive oil

1 pound large shrimp, shelled and deveined

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1/2 small yellow onion, finely chopped

1 1/2 cups arborio rice

1/2 cup dry white wine

1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese

1 tablespoon fresh Meyer lemon juice

1 tablespoon chopped parsley leaves

1 tablespoon dill sprigs

1 teaspoon finely grated Meyer lemon zest, plus extra for garnish

Bring the stock to a simmer in a medium saucepan. Reduce the heat to low and keep warm.

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a rolling boil. Add the asparagus and peas; cook until the vegetables brighten in color and are crisp-tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold water to stop the cooking process (they will cook further in the risotto). Set aside.

Add 1 tablespoon oil to a large skillet. Add the shrimp and lightly season with salt and black pepper. Cook until just cooked through, about 4 minutes, turning once. Transfer to another plate.

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a separate deep skillet or pot over medium heat. Add the onion and a pinch of salt and saute until the onion is soft and translucent without coloring, about 3 minutes. Stir in the rice and cook until it is well coated and lightly toasted, stirring constantly, about 1 minute. Pour in the wine and stir until the wine is absorbed, about 1 minute more.

Add 1 cup stock and stir until the liquid is absorbed. Continue adding the stock, 1/2 cup at a time, stirring until the liquid is absorbed before adding the next 1/2 cup, until the rice is al dente and the risotto is creamy. (Depending on the age of the rice, you may not use all of the stock. Older rice requires more liquid to cook.)

During the last minute or two of cooking, stir in the asparagus, peas and shrimp to warm through.

Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the cheese, lemon juice, parsley, dill and lemon zest. Season to taste with salt and black pepper. Serve immediately, garnished with lemon zest and additional dill or parsley, if desired.

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