health

Pilaf Isn't Just for Rice

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | October 5th, 2020

Pilaf is a simple and delicious grain dish, traditionally composed of lightly toasted rice grains, which are simmered in an aromatic spice-infused stock. And while rice is frequently used in pilaf, it isn’t mandatory. Other grains, such as farro and freekah, can be used, as well as wheat ingredients, including orzo, bulgur and couscous. This recipe is for pearl couscous pilaf. Pearl couscous is also known as Israeli couscous (ptitim) and Italian couscous (fregola sarda). It differs from finely grained North African couscous, which is coarse with air-dried flecks of durum wheat semolina that are typically steamed and served with stews.

Pearl couscous is also made from wheat flour and semolina, but it's rolled into tiny pearl-shaped pieces of pasta and then toasted until hardened. This process produces a nutty flavor, chewy bite and slippery texture, which is incredibly satisfying to eat. Not only that, when you cook pearl couscous, the extra step of toasting the hardened pearls again before simmering in stock burnishes the couscous with a golden color and a nutty toasted flavor.

This recipe method layers in the flavor and produces an understated yet glorious side dish. The grains simmer in chicken stock infused with butter and spices, rippling with golden saffron. Toasted pine nuts, currants and fresh herbs complete the dish. It’s simple and sumptuous and a wonderful accompaniment to meat, fish and vegetables.

Pearl Couscous Pilaf

Active Time: 30 minutes

Total Time: 30 minutes

Yield: Serves 4 to 6 as a side dish

1 3/4 cups chicken stock

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom

1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Generous pinch of saffron threads

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/3 cup finely chopped yellow onion

1 1/2 cups Israeli couscous

3 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted until light golden

2 to 3 tablespoons currants or finely chopped golden raisins

2 tablespoons finely chopped mint

2 tablespoon finely chopped Italian parsley

Warm the stock, butter, salt, cumin, cardamom, cinnamon and saffron in a small saucepan until the butter melts. Keep warm over low heat.

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and saute until softened without coloring, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the couscous and cook until lightly toasted, about 2 minutes, stirring frequently.

Carefully add the stock to the pan and stir to combine. Cover the pan and simmer over medium-low heat until the liquid has been absorbed and the couscous is tender, about 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, remove the lid, and fluff the couscous with a fork. Lay a clean dishtowel over the pan, without touching the couscous, and place the lid over the towel. Let stand for 5 minutes to allow the towel to absorb the steam.

Stir in the pine nuts, currants, mint and parsley. Serve warm or at room temperature.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

health

A Crisp for All Seasons

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | September 28th, 2020

It's fall, and in my book, that means it's time for apple crisp. When it comes to a good recipe, I follow the popular adage: If it's not broken, don't fix it. This recipe is my go-to recipe throughout the year. The method and amounts remain consistent, and I’ll change up the types of fruit, spices and nuts according to the season.

A crisp should contain seasonal fruits at their peak in flavor, enhanced with a dusting of sugar and spice. The topping should be crumbly and not cloyingly sweet, allowing the natural sweetness of the fruit to shine through. As for the garnish, I prefer the lightness of whipped cream, gently sweetened so it won't overwhelm the dessert -- and preferably fortified with a nip of spirits to complement the fruit filling.

This recipe makes a generous amount of topping -- enough to blanket a 10-cup or 11-by-7-inch baking dish. When assembling the filling, it’s important to have a deep layer of fruit, so feel free to increase the amount of fruit or adjust the shape of the baking dish as needed. Pile the topping on thick, so it will add a delightful cookie crunch to the filling.

If you have extra topping, it can be refrigerated for up to one week or frozen for up to one month. There’s nothing wrong with having a little leftover for a last-minute dessert; chances are you’ll be making crisps throughout the season!

Apple Raisin Crisp With Calvados Cream

Active Time: 25 minutes

Total Time: 1 hour and 15 minutes

Yield: Serves 6

Topping:

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 cup (packed) light brown sugar

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup pecans

3/4 cup unsalted butter, chilled, cut in pieces

Filling:

6 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, cut in 3/4-inch chunks

1 cup raisins

1 tablespoon fresh orange juice

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon finely grated orange zest

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom

Whipped Cream:

1 cup heavy cream

1 to 2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 tablespoon Calvados brandy (optional)

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Make the topping: Combine the flour, sugars, cinnamon, cardamom and salt in a food processor and pulse once or twice to blend. Add the pecans and pulse a few times to break them into chunky pieces. Add the butter and pulse until the topping resembles coarse meal. Refrigerate the topping until use -- you want the butter to stay cold for best results.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Combine the apples, raisins and orange juice in a large bowl. Add the remaining filling ingredients and toss to combine. Transfer the fruit to a 10-cup baking dish. Spread the topping evenly over the filling, letting it dribble down between the fruit and edges.

Transfer to the oven and bake until the apples are tender and the topping is golden brown and crisp, about 50 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool slightly to allow the flavors to develop.

Make the cream: Beat the cream in the bowl of an electric mixer until traces of the whisk are visible in the cream. Add the sugar, Calvados (if using) and vanilla and continue to beat until soft peaks form.

Serve the crisp slightly warm or at room temperature with the whipped cream.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

health

End of Summer Slaw

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | September 21st, 2020

It's officially the end of summer. A change of seasons is always a good time to switch gears and do a little cleaning -- consider it a spring clean, but in the fall -- and nothing too taxing, mind you; we're all under a little stress these days. A simple project will feel like an accomplishment, such as cleaning out your refrigerator. This was my inspiration when I did just that and made this slaw.

It's amazing (and potentially alarming) what can be discovered in the depths of a refrigerator. One thing that became clear to me is that sturdy greens and crucifers have a long storage life. A quarter head of cabbage here, a lone broccoli spear there, not to mention a few shockingly pretty rainbow carrots that were stashed for later use (and promptly forgotten) remained bright and crisp.

All of these veggies, from cabbage, to crucifers, to chicories and roots are perfect ingredients in coleslaw. Not only do they have hearty flavors that stand up to bright dressings, but they hold their satisfying crunch and won’t easily wilt.

This coleslaw is substantial, and while it's the tail end of the summer season, it's equally suited for a fall barbecue and more meaty cool-weather meals. Use the recipe as a guide to use up whatever is in your refrigerator; there is no set rule on the ingredients. With that said, however, choose ingredients that are crisp and sturdy, and try to include a balance of flavors, from earthy and peppery to sweet. Jazz up the color varieties, too, if you can -- it will be easy on the eyes.

This salad bowl includes red cabbage, daikon radish, sweet carrots, red bell pepper and a broccoli spear (I told you this was a refrigerator cleanout). And, yes, that's a broccoli stalk in the mix, which happens to be an excellent addition to a slaw. Just be sure to peel the tough outer skin before you shred or cut it.

As for the dressing, feel free to adjust the seasonings to your taste. I grew up eating mayo-heavy slaws, and while there's nothing wrong with these creamy renditions, I prefer the lighter oil-and-vinegar versions.

Active Time: 15 minutes

Total Time: 15 minutes

Yield: Serves: 4 to 6

Dressing:

2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon fresh orange juice

1 tablespoon whole milk yogurt

2 teaspoons sugar

1/2 teaspoon Sriracha

1/2 teaspoon salt, or more to taste

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

Slaw:

1/2 medium head red cabbage, cored and thinly sliced

2 carrots, shredded

1 4-inch (approx.) daikon radish, peeled, shredded

1 small red bell pepper, thinly sliced

1 broccoli spear, florets chopped, stalk peeled and shredded

2 green onions, thinly sliced

Whisk the dressing ingredients together in a small bowl.

Combine the slaw ingredients in a large bowl. Pour half of the dressing over and toss to coat. Add more dressing to your desired taste and taste for seasoning. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour before serving.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

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