It's officially the end of summer. A change of seasons is always a good time to switch gears and do a little cleaning -- consider it a spring clean, but in the fall -- and nothing too taxing, mind you; we're all under a little stress these days. A simple project will feel like an accomplishment, such as cleaning out your refrigerator. This was my inspiration when I did just that and made this slaw.

It's amazing (and potentially alarming) what can be discovered in the depths of a refrigerator. One thing that became clear to me is that sturdy greens and crucifers have a long storage life. A quarter head of cabbage here, a lone broccoli spear there, not to mention a few shockingly pretty rainbow carrots that were stashed for later use (and promptly forgotten) remained bright and crisp.

All of these veggies, from cabbage, to crucifers, to chicories and roots are perfect ingredients in coleslaw. Not only do they have hearty flavors that stand up to bright dressings, but they hold their satisfying crunch and won’t easily wilt.

This coleslaw is substantial, and while it's the tail end of the summer season, it's equally suited for a fall barbecue and more meaty cool-weather meals. Use the recipe as a guide to use up whatever is in your refrigerator; there is no set rule on the ingredients. With that said, however, choose ingredients that are crisp and sturdy, and try to include a balance of flavors, from earthy and peppery to sweet. Jazz up the color varieties, too, if you can -- it will be easy on the eyes.

This salad bowl includes red cabbage, daikon radish, sweet carrots, red bell pepper and a broccoli spear (I told you this was a refrigerator cleanout). And, yes, that's a broccoli stalk in the mix, which happens to be an excellent addition to a slaw. Just be sure to peel the tough outer skin before you shred or cut it.

As for the dressing, feel free to adjust the seasonings to your taste. I grew up eating mayo-heavy slaws, and while there's nothing wrong with these creamy renditions, I prefer the lighter oil-and-vinegar versions.

Active Time: 15 minutes

Total Time: 15 minutes

Yield: Serves: 4 to 6

Dressing:

2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon fresh orange juice

1 tablespoon whole milk yogurt

2 teaspoons sugar

1/2 teaspoon Sriracha

1/2 teaspoon salt, or more to taste

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

Slaw:

1/2 medium head red cabbage, cored and thinly sliced

2 carrots, shredded

1 4-inch (approx.) daikon radish, peeled, shredded

1 small red bell pepper, thinly sliced

1 broccoli spear, florets chopped, stalk peeled and shredded

2 green onions, thinly sliced

Whisk the dressing ingredients together in a small bowl.

Combine the slaw ingredients in a large bowl. Pour half of the dressing over and toss to coat. Add more dressing to your desired taste and taste for seasoning. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour before serving.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

When summer fades and the season tilts to autumn, my senses heighten. The lower light casts a gauzy glow, stretching the shadows lazy and long. The air turns cool and sharp, tinged with wood-burning smoke and the essence of dew on fallen leaves. Wind gusts grow blustery, and fog bears beads of mist and drizzle. No longer stultified by heat and humidity, my appetite grows and shifts to warmth and comfort, craving steaming bowls of chowder and stews, warm drinks and fortifying libations. This steamy bowl of buttery clams hits the spot.

I experienced a meal like this one day last fall, when I was in Washington researching a travel story on the northern coast of the Olympic peninsula. In true Pacific Northwest form, the weather was gray, foggy and misty with intermittent (i.e. frequent) rain showers. Yes, it was seasonally wet. It was also magical, mystical and magnificent. The horizon loomed with teetering mountains, shrouded in swirls of clouds and fog and bedecked with garlands of waterfalls cascading into serpentine lakes. It was desolate, due in part to the weather and also the season.

I had the roads to myself, snaking through canyons, interrupted occasionally by logging trucks barreling past, shocking me out of my reverie. I hiked to a ridge, rain be damned, with distant views to British Columbia, through a mist-laden rain forest lush with moss. I traced a river to a roaring crescendo of water tumbling from a precipitous ledge, and I saw salmon spawn.

By the end of the day, I was cold, soggy and famished. I returned to sea level, to a small fishing town anchoring the mountains to the sea. There were no restaurants open at 4 p.m. but for one lone storefront fish market that provided counter service, and I ordered a simple bowl of garlicky clams steamed in wine and swimming in their buttery juices, with slabs of garlic bread for soaking up the sweet broth. The singular accompaniment was an icy glass of snappy local riesling. It was perfect. Since then, I've re-created this dish at home a number of times. It’s simple and consistently rewarding. The only thing missing is the weather.

Butter and Garlic Clams

Littleneck clams are my preferred type of clam for this recipe. They are the smallest quahog clam, with sweet and tender meat. Depending on their size, 1 pound yields 8 to 12 clams. When cleaning clams, discard any opened clams or those with broken shells before washing. Rinse the clams under cold water, gently scrubbing them clean. Once cooked, discard any unopened clams before serving.

Active Time: 15 minutes

Total Time: 15 minutes

Yield: Serves 2 to 4

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 1/2 cups un-oaked white wine

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 pounds littleneck clams, about 24, rinsed and scrubbed clean

1/4 cup chopped Italian parsley leaves

Lemon wedges for serving

In a large, deep skillet with a lid, melt the butter with the oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and saute until soft and fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the wine, lemon juice, and a pinch of salt and black pepper. Bring to a simmer and add the clams. Cover the pan, reduce the heat to medium-low, and steam the clams until the shells have opened, shaking the pan from time to time, 6 to 8 minutes, depending on the size of the clams.

Remove the lid and discard any unopened clams. Taste the broth and season with additional salt and pepper if desired. Divide the clams and cooking liquid among serving bowls and garnish with the parsley. Serve immediately with lemon wedges and garlic bread or crusty bread.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

I call these fajitas, but are they actually tacos? Perhaps they’re a little of both. What’s the difference, you may ask.

Very generally speaking, fajitas are traditionally made with grilled meat, often skirt steak, or chicken and sauteed peppers and onions. The ingredients are presented deconstructed, ready for assembly in soft flour tortillas. Tacos traditionally include ground meat, lettuce, tomato and cheese assembled in a fried corn tortilla. As for similarities, both fajitas and tacos include salsa, guacamole, sour cream and cheese as optional accompaniments.

Now, depending on the region of origin, the cook and everyone’s (naturally correct) opinion, all sorts of variations abound. So, with that caveat, I suggest that this recipe with grilled skirt steak and flour tortillas leans more to a fajita ... with a spin. In this version, the grilled onions and peppers are missing. In place, a fresh and chunky black bean and corn salsa is added. And don’t worry -- all the usual accompaniments, such as guacamole, tomato salsa, sour cream and cheese are included as well.

Skirt Steak Fajitas

Active Time: 30 minutes

Total Time: 30 minutes, plus marinating time

Yield: Serves 4 to 6

Marinade:

1/4 cup olive or canola oil

1/4 cup soy sauce

1/4 cup fresh orange juice

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

2 tablespoons light brown sugar

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon chipotle chili powder

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 pounds skirt steak, cut into 5- or 6-inch pieces

Black Bean and Corn Salsa:

1 (15-ounce) can black beans, drained

Corn kernels from one ear of fresh corn (or 1 cup defrosted frozen corn)

2 scallions, white and green parts thinly sliced

1 small red bell pepper, stemmed and seeded, finely diced

1/4 cup chopped cilantro leaves

Juice of one lime

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon hot sauce, or to taste

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Soft flour tortillas, warmed

Optional garnishes: tomato salsa or pico de gallo, guacamole, sour cream, grated cheese, fresh cilantro, lime wedges

Whisk all of the marinade ingredients together in a small bowl.

Place the skirt steak in a baking dish. Pour the marinade over the steak and turn to coat. Cover with plastic and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight, turning once or twice. Remove the steak from the refrigerator 30 minutes before grilling.

Combine all of the salsa ingredients in a bowl. Stir to combine and taste for seasoning. Refrigerate until serving.

Prepare the grill for direct cooking over high heat. Remove the skirt steak from the marinade and grill over direct heat 6 to 8 minutes, turning as needed. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes. Cut the steaks against the grain in thin strips.

Serve the steak with warm tortillas, the black bean and corn salsa, and other toppings, such as guacamole, tomato salsa, cilantro sprigs, sour cream and lime wedges.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS