This recipe is not entirely authentic. I prefer to call it an improvised Ma Po Tofu, because when the craving strikes for this spicy, satisfying Asian soup, but it happens to be a Sunday night in the dead of winter and you happen to be in your P.J.'s, it’s time to dig deep and improvise.

This happened to me recently, when I turned to a David Tanis recipe in The New York Times as a template. I didn’t have all of the ingredients, so I winged it with what I happened to have stashed in my refrigerator, plus extra smidges of this and that to ramp up the flavor and spice to my taste.

You can do this, too, if you are properly prepared. So, with this in mind -- and in preparation for any future pajama-clad cravings you may experience -- I am here to suggest investing in a few Asian staples to add to your pantry. These are the critical “this and that” condiments that will tip a dish to crave-sating deliciousness, the obscure secret ingredients that add lip-smacking flavor to many spicy and savory dishes, Asian or otherwise. They also have a conveniently long shelf life, so you can tuck them into the back of your cabinet or fridge and forget about them until the need arises or craving strikes.

The first condiment I recommend purchasing is gojuchang. It’s a Korean fermented hot chili paste, which adds a smoky kick of heat, mild glutinous-rice sweetness, and that elusive umami flavor to sauces, marinades and soups, making them positively addicting. The next condiment is fermented black bean and garlic sauce, which has a murky, almost meaty quality that adds depth and savory flavor to stir-fries and marinades.

And, while we are on the subject of must-haves, another ingredient I highly recommend (that is not needed in this recipe, but you’re going to the store anyway) is miso paste. A dab of this fermented soybean paste adds salty, savory, umami flavor to broths, sauces, marinades, even sweets -- think miso-salted caramel. All of these staples can be found in the international section of many well-stocked supermarkets or in Asian specialty stores and can be stored in your refrigerator for up to one year.

And since we are talking about cravings, I will add that once all of the ingredients are assembled for this soup recipe, you can whip it up in a matter of minutes, which is a boon to instant gratification.

Ma Po Tofu

Active Time: 10 minutes

Total Time: 25 minutes

Yield: Serves 2 to 4

1 ounce dried Porcini mushrooms

1 tablespoon canola oil

1 large red jalapeno chile, seeded, chopped

2 tablespoons fermented hot chili paste, such as gojuchang

1 tablespoon fermented black bean and garlic sauce

2 tablespoons grated fresh peeled ginger

1 large garlic clove, minced

1 cup plus 3 tablespoons chicken or mushroom stock

2 tablespoons soy sauce or tamari

1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil

15 ounces semi-firm tofu, patted dry, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1 to 2 teaspoons sugar, optional

4 scallions, white and green parts thinly sliced

Bring 1 1/2 cups water to a simmer in a small saucepan. Turn off the heat, add the mushrooms, and let steep for 15 minutes.

Heat the oil in a skillet or wok over medium-high heat. Add the chile, chili paste and black bean sauce and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the ginger and garlic and saute until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the mushrooms and cooking water to the wok. Stir in 1 cup stock, soy sauce and sesame oil.

Slide the tofu into the soup and reduce the heat to medium. Whisk the 1 tablespoon cornstarch with the 3 tablespoons stock and add to the soup, and cook until the soup is hot. Taste for seasoning, and add sugar if desired. Stir in the scallions. Serve hot.

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A flourless chocolate cake is the “must-have” little black dress of desserts. Minimal, simple and universally pleasing, it’s a classic for all occasions. And, short of intravenous therapy, it’s one of the most intense forms of chocolate consumption you will experience. A tiny sliver of this luscious, gluten-free cake goes a long way (or maybe not, depending on your willpower).

Since the cake is flourless, it demands a very short list of ingredients, which means that the spotlight is rightly on the chocolate. Don’t skimp in this department. Choose the best-quality dark (70 to 72%) chocolate you can lay your hands on, because it makes all the difference, and you will be rewarded with a stunning cake.

Like the quintessential black dress, you can keep it simple or accessorize it for extra bling. Serve it “naked” with a dusting of powdered sugar. For more sparkle, you can wrap it in a shiny sheen of chocolate glaze. Either way, feel free to serve the cake with gently sweetened whipped cream, which adds a cooling ethereal contrast to the inky chocolate wedge. And if fresh strawberries are available, for goodness sake, don’t hold back.

Glazed Flourless Chocolate Cake

Active Time: 30 minutes

Total Time: 1 hour and 30 minutes, plus cooling time

Yield: Makes 1 (9-inch) cake; Serves 10

Cake:

Unsweetened cocoa powder for dusting

12 ounces high-quality dark chocolate (70 to 72%), chopped

1 cup (8 ounces) unsalted butter, room temperature

6 large eggs, separated, room temperature

1 cup granulated sugar, divided

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/4 teaspoon salt

Glaze:

4 1/2 ounces dark chocolate, finely chopped

1/4 cup heavy cream

1/4 cup dark corn syrup

Whipped cream and fresh strawberries, for garnish

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 9-inch-diameter springform pan. Line the bottom with parchment paper and butter the parchment. Sprinkle with unsweetened cocoa powder and tap out the excess.

Combine the chocolate and butter in a double boiler or heatproof bowl placed over a saucepan of barely simmering water. Stir frequently until the chocolate is melted and smooth, and remove from the heat.

Beat the egg yolks and 1/2 cup sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a whisk attachment until light and thick, about 3 minutes. Transfer the eggs to a large clean bowl and then stir in the melted chocolate, vanilla and salt.

In a clean mixing bowl, beat the egg whites until soft peaks form. With the machine running, add the remaining 1/2 cup sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, until medium-firm peaks form. Stir 1/4 of the egg whites into the chocolate to blend, and then gently fold in the remaining whites, in 2 additions, without overmixing. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and spread evenly.

Bake until the top of the cake is slightly puffed and cracked and a knife inserted into the center comes out with moist crumbs, 40 to 50 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and cool completely in the pan. (If desired, the cake can be served unglazed at this point. Dust with powdered sugar before serving.)

To make the glaze, place the chocolate in a heat-resistant bowl. Heat the cream in a small saucepan until it just reaches a simmer and pour over the chocolate. Add the corn syrup and vanilla and whisk until smooth. Keep warm.

Remove the side of the cake pan, invert the cake onto a plate, and discard the parchment. Pour the glaze over the center of the cake. Spread the glaze over the top and down the sides of the cake, using an offset spatula to smooth the glaze. Chill in the refrigerator until firm, about 10 minutes.

Serve at room temperature with whipped cream and fresh strawberries.

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Craving comfort? These braised thighs will do the trick.

Braising chicken thighs is an easy way to get a warming, flavorful meal without the time involved to slow-cook stew meat. Dark chicken meat is inherently flavorful -- and forgiving -- and happy to mingle with stock, tomatoes and a smudge of spices without compromising the meat’s flavor or drying out.

The Moroccan-inspired spice paste in this recipe is crucial to the flavor of the chicken, which is braised in a sweet and spicy slick of onions and tomato. While you can easily prepare this meal in one hour, you can also take the time to let the chicken marinate for several hours or even overnight. It's worth it.

Braised Moroccan Chicken Thighs With Tomatoes and Ginger

Active Time: 30 minutes

Total Time: 1 hour, plus optional marinating time

Yield: Serves: 4 to 6

Paste:

3 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoon sweet paprika

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

1/2 teaspoon saffron threads

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

8 bone-in chicken thighs with skin

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 large yellow onions, halved and thinly sliced

2 teaspoons finely grated peeled fresh ginger

1 (28-ounce) can crushed Italian plum tomatoes

1 cup chicken stock

1 (6-inch) cinnamon stick

1 tablespoon honey or light brown sugar

2 teaspoons harissa paste (or red chili sauce, such as Sambal Oelek)

1 teaspoon salt, or more to taste

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste

Chopped fresh Italian parsley or cilantro for garnish

In a small bowl, combine the paste ingredients. Rub the paste all over the chicken and between the skin and flesh. (The chicken can marinate for up to 24 hours. If not proceeding with cooking, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Remove from the refrigerator 30 minutes before proceeding.)

Heat the oil in a Dutch oven or oven-safe skillet over medium-high heat. In batches, arrange the chicken, skin side down, in the pan without overcrowding. Brown the skin and then flip the chicken and briefly cook until the meat takes on color, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

Pour off all but 1 tablespoon fat from the skillet (if the skillet is dry, add 1 tablespoon olive oil). Add the onion and saute until soft, about 3 minutes. Add the ginger and saute until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the tomatoes, chicken stock, cinnamon stick, honey or brown sugar, harissa, salt and pepper. Simmer for 5 minutes, and then taste for seasoning.

Return the chicken to the pan and nestle into the sauce, skin side up, without submerging the skin. Transfer to the oven and bake, uncovered, until the chicken is thoroughly cooked, about 30 minutes. (A meat thermometer will register 165 degrees when inserted into the thickest part near the bone.)

Serve garnished with fresh parsley or cilantro.

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