health

Individual Gratins Are Easy To Make and Elegant To Serve

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | December 23rd, 2019

Yes, that's potato gratins in the plural, not singular. Sure, you can make one big gratin, but these little gratins are very cute in their individual ramekins, and they are also elegantly and cleverly portioned. This ensures that you will be less likely to find yourself gobbling up half a baking dish of gratineed potatoes or wrestling your child for the last crunchy cheesy corner stuck to the baking dish. Just saying -- it's been known to happen.

There’s nothing more appealing and comforting than a bubbling casserole of cheesy potatoes in the winter. The ingredients are few and simple. Sour cream lends a bright tang to the cheesy richness of the gratin. Yukon gold potatoes are buttery, creamy and versatile, and hold their shape once cooked, so the gratin won’t turn to mush.

And then there’s the cheese: An authentic Gruyere cheese is the best choice for this cold-weather dish. Gruyere hails from the Swiss Alps, and if any food culture can do wintery food and cheese well, it’s the Swiss. Their alpine cheese is nutty, sweet and piquant, a byproduct of their very happy cows nibbling on the flora in the mountain meadows. Choose an aged Gruyere if you can, because it will have a little more salt and earthiness in its flavor.

A key to making these gratins is to slice the potatoes as thinly as possible. A mandolin works best for this task, but you can also carefully cut the potatoes with a knife. Keep the skins on for extra nutrients -- just be sure to give the potatoes a good scrubbing before slicing. This recipe can also be prepared in a 2-quart baking dish or gratin. Just remember to share.

Potato Gratins

Active Time: 20 minutes

Total Time: 1 hour and 20 minutes

Makes 8 servings

Unsalted butter

16 ounces full-fat sour cream

2 garlic cloves, minced

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

2 pounds small to medium Yukon gold potatoes, washed, very thinly sliced, about 1/8-inch thick

8 ounces grated Gruyere cheese

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter 8 (3/4-cup) ramekins.

Whisk the sour cream, garlic, nutmeg, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper together in a bowl.

Arrange two layers of potatoes, slightly overlapping, in the ramekins. Spread a layer of sour cream over the potatoes to cover, and then top with a sprinkling of cheese. Repeat the layering process, occasionally sprinkling with a pinch of salt and pepper, until the ramekins are full, gently pressing down on each layer. Finish with a layer of sour cream and grated cheese.

Arrange the ramekins on a baking sheet and transfer to the oven. Bake until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a knife, and the tops are brown and bubbling, about 50 minutes to 1 hour. (If the tops brown before the potatoes are fully cooked, lightly cover with foil to prevent burning.)

Remove from the oven and let stand for 5 minutes. Serve warm.

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health

Do-Ahead Desserts Are a Perfect Holiday Gift for the Cook

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | December 16th, 2019

Are you still unsure of what to make for a party dessert this season? Try this light and luscious semifreddo, topped with a compote of port-wine poached figs. Fragrant with orange and spice, it's reminiscent of English Christmas puddings and mulled wine.

A semifreddo is an elegant frozen Italian concoction of whipped cream and meringue, which, in this preparation, is flecked with toasted almonds and orange zest. Each bite is ethereal, melting on the tongue in a light and airy poof. For a little extra sweetness (it's Christmas after all), a shard of caramelized almond praline crowns the dessert.

The beauty of this recipe is that each component may be prepared at least a day in advance, so all that you need to do is assemble it when you are ready to serve, which is a perfect gift to the cook when entertaining.

Orange Almond Semifreddo With Port-Wine Poached Figs

Active Time: 1 hour and 15 minutes

Total Time: 1 hour and 15 minutes, plus cooling and freezing time

Yield: Serves 8

Semifreddo:

3/4 cup whole almonds

2 tablespoons plus 1/2 cup granulated sugar

1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest

Pinch of salt

3 large egg whites, room temperature

1 cup heavy cream, chilled

1 teaspoon orange liqueur, such as Cointreau

1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

Figs Compote:

16 dried figs, stems removed, halved if large

3/4 cup port wine

1/4 cup brown sugar

1 (3-inch) cinnamon stick

2 tablespoons orange liqueur, such as Cointreau

Zest and juice of 1/2 orange

Praline:

3/4 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cup sliced almonds, lightly toasted

1/4 teaspoon sea salt

Prepare the semifreddo:

Line a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan with plastic, leaving a 3-inch overhang.

Place the almonds and the 2 tablespoons sugar in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse until finely ground. Add the orange zest and salt and pulse once or twice to blend.

Beat the egg whites in the bowl of an electric mixer until they begin to hold soft peaks. Add the 1/2 cup sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, beating until the egg whites are glossy and hold stiff peaks. Transfer to a large bowl.

In a clean mixing bowl, beat the cream, orange liqueur and vanilla extract until soft peaks form. Gently fold the egg whites into the cream until no traces are visible. Gently fold the almonds into the egg whites until evenly distributed. Spoon into the prepared loaf pan and smooth the top. Cover tightly with plastic. Freeze at least 8 hours or overnight.

Prepare the figs:

Combine all of the compote ingredients in a heavy medium saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, partially covered, until the figs are soft but still hold their shape, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove and cool completely in the liquid; discard the cinnamon stick. (Figs may be prepared up to 2 days in advance. Refrigerate until use. Bring to room temperature to serve.)

Prepare the praline:

Heat the sugar in a heavy small saucepan over medium heat until it melts, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon. Continue to cook, stirring constantly, until sugar turns amber in color. Add the almonds and sea salt and stir quickly to coat. Pour onto a baking sheet lined with parchment and spread into a thin layer. Do not touch with your fingers. Cool completely. Break into small pieces.

Serve:

When ready to serve, remove the semifreddo from the loaf pan. Working quickly, cut in 3/4-inch slices and arrange on serving plates or shallow bowls. Spoon figs and a little juice over the semifreddo and garnish with praline shards. Serve immediately.

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health

'Tis the Season for Spirits -- In Your Food as Well as Your Glass

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | December 9th, 2019

In this window of time between Thanksgiving turkey and Christmas excess, take a break from fancy feasts and indulge in a robust and rustic one-pot meal. This wine- and brandy-laced stew is guaranteed to warm you in the cold weather. After all, while libations are certainly for sipping, don’t overlook their power to enhance flavor in food, such as this pork and prune stew fortified with Armagnac. If this recipe doesn’t warm you, I’m not sure what will.

Armagnac is a brandy produced in the southwestern region of France. Like cognac, Armagnac is derived from grapes -- but the difference veers subtly from there. While cognac is twice distilled, yielding a smoother pour, Armagnac is distilled only once, which lends more nuance, character and complexity to its flavor. And while this certainly makes for intriguing and wonderful sipping, it also adds delightful complexity to soups, stews, sauces, even desserts.

In this recipe, Armagnac teams up with luscious prunes and pork to create a rich and homey stew perfumed with juniper and rosemary. Just remember to pour yourself a splash to enjoy while you are preparing the meal.

Pork Stew With Prunes and Armagnac

Active Time: 30 minutes

Total Time: 3 to 3 1/2 hours, plus steeping time

Yield: Serves 6

20 prunes, pitted

1/2 cup Armagnac brandy

3 pounds pork shoulder, excess fat trimmed, meat cut into 1 1/2-inch chunks

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 ounces bacon, coarsely chopped

2 large carrots, chopped

3 medium shallots, chopped

3 garlic cloves, chopped

1 bottle full-bodied red wine

1 cup demi-glace or high-quality beef stock

1 bouquet garni: 4 juniper berries, 3 rosemary sprigs, 2 thyme sprigs and 2 bay leaves wrapped in cheesecloth and tied with a kitchen string

Combine the prunes and Armagnac in a bowl and let stand at least 1 hour.

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

Season the pork on all sides with salt and pepper. Heat the olive oil over medium-high heat in a Dutch oven or oven-proof pot with a lid. Add the pork in batches, without overcrowding, and brown on all sides. Transfer to a bowl and repeat with the remaining pork.

Pour off all but 1 tablespoon pork fat from the pan. Add the bacon and saute until its fat renders. Add the carrots and shallots and saute until the shallots soften and the carrots are crisp-tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and saute until fragrant, about 1 minute.

Return the pork and any accumulated juices to the pan. Add the prunes and Armagnac, the wine, beef stock, bouquet garni, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cover the pan, transfer to the oven, and cook until the meat is very tender, 2 1/2 to 3 hours, stirring once every hour or so.

Remove the stew from the oven, discard the bouquet garni, and taste for seasoning. Serve with mashed potatoes, polenta or crusty bread.

(The stew may be prepared up to two days in advance. Warm over low heat or in a 300-degree oven before serving.)

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