health

Sheet Pan Cooking Promises a Flavorful Dish

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | October 28th, 2019

There are one-pan dinners, and there are sheet-pan dinners. They both make sense. By limiting the cooking action to a single pan, there is less to wash up, which is a definite bonus at the end of a long day. But there’s a more important advantage: One-pan cooking ensures that every ingredient mingles together during the cooking process, sharing the spices and flavorings while contributing to the pan juices, which, in turn, promises a very tasty and comforting dish.

I’ve prepared this recipe in various iterations for years. It was originally inspired by a Bon Appetit recipe, and since then I’ve tweaked and improvised it along the way. The key method remains the same -- which is that the whole lot is spread on a rimmed baking sheet at once, coated in a spicy garlic-infused oil, and then banished to the oven for just enough time to thoroughly cook the chicken. During the cooking process, the tomatoes cook down to a juicy sludge and melt into the pan juices, while the nubby chickpeas enjoy a bath in the fragrant sauce.

Before you know it -- voila -- you have a fragrant, saucy chicken dinner, ready in about 40 minutes, while most of that time is hands-off oven time. The flavorful sauce is the best part to this dish, so I serve the chicken over a bed of couscous to capture every drop, and serve the finished dish with a cooling dollop of spiced yogurt.

Sheet Pan Chicken Breasts with Tomatoes and Chickpeas

Active Time: 10 minutes

Total Time: 40 minutes

Yield: Serves 4

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro and/or mint

2 teaspoons smoked paprika

2 teaspoons sweet paprika

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

1/4 teaspoon cayenne or piment d’Espelette

Salt

4 large boneless chicken breasts, with skin, 6 to 8 ounces each

1 pound grape tomatoes

1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

Yogurt Sauce:

1 cup Greek whole milk yogurt

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 small garlic clove, minced

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

1/4 teaspoon cayenne or piment d’Espelette

Heat the oven to 425 degrees. Whisk the oil, garlic, cilantro, paprika, cumin, zest, cayenne and 1 teaspoon salt in a medium bowl. Arrange the chicken, skin-side up, on a rimmed baking sheet. Rub half of the oil all over the chicken pieces, between the skin and meat, and lightly season with additional salt.

Add the tomatoes and chickpeas to the bowl with the remaining oil and turn to coat. Spread on the cooking sheet around the chicken. Transfer to the oven and roast until the chicken is thoroughly cooked, 25 to 30 minutes, depending on the thickness of the meat.

While the chicken is roasting, whisk the yogurt sauce ingredients in a small bowl.

Arrange the chicken on serving plates, with couscous if desired. Garnish with fresh mint or cilantro and serve with the yogurt sauce.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

health

Holiday Soup Shots

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | October 21st, 2019

There is something magical about roasted butternut squash. Its orange flesh softens into sweet, nutty squidginess, which is easily transformed into a puree. It’s hard to believe something so rich and sugary can be loaded with nutrients and beta carotene, but so it is. One cup of butternut squash provides a glutton’s worth of vitamins A and C, as well as a healthy shot of potassium, manganese and fiber.

When roasted, its natural sugars are coaxed out and gently caramelized, accentuating the squash’s inherent nutty flavor. In this recipe, roasted butternut squash mingles with its fall buddies -- apples, cider and loads of warming spices -- yielding an essential autumn soup.

Serve the soup as a starter to any meal, or dress it up in little shot glasses as a fancy starter when entertaining a crowd. It’s a great way to kick off the holiday season.

Curried Apple and Butternut Squash Soup

Active Time: 40 minutes

Total Time: 1 hour and 30 minutes

Yield: Makes 4 to 6 large bowl servings or 16 to 18 small appetizer shots, depending on size of glass

1 medium butternut squash, about 2 pounds


Extra-virgin olive oil


1 large onion, finely chopped


1 large Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, diced

1 tablespoon curry powder


1 teaspoon ground cumin


1/2 teaspoon ground coriander


1/4 teaspoon cayenne, or to taste


3 cups chicken stock


1 cup apple cider


1 tablespoon light brown sugar


1 to 2 teaspoons salt, to taste


1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Creme fraiche or sour cream for garnish

Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Cut the squash in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Lightly brush the exposed flesh with olive oil. Place squash, cut-side-down, on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake until the flesh is fork-tender, 50 to 60 minutes. Remove from oven and cool slightly. When cool enough to handle, scoop out the flesh and set aside.

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onions and cook until softened without coloring, 3 to 4 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the apple, curry powder, cumin, coriander and cayenne. Cook until fragrant, about 1 minute, stirring constantly. Add the roasted squash and chicken stock. (There should be just enough stock to cover the squash and apples. If needed, add additional stock to cover.) Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat, cover the pot, and simmer until the apples are very soft, about 20 minutes.

Carefully puree the soup in batches in a food processor (or with an immersion blender). Return the soup to the pot and stir in the apple cider, brown sugar, salt and pepper. Warm thoroughly over medium-low heat and taste for seasoning. Serve warm, garnished with a small spoonful of creme fraiche.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

health

A Tale of Two Children (and Brussels Sprouts)

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | October 14th, 2019

If you have more than one child, you may understand this tale. I have two children. One is an adventurous eater, and one is not. One loves fish, and the other can't stand it (although I don't recall her ever tasting much of it). One adores butter and milk, while the other would prefer not to be seated at the same table with dairy products.

My highly unscientific theory is that this is nature's way of ensuring that its offspring do not starve. If siblings have opposite tastes, then there is enough food to feed the litter. After all, how would our species advance otherwise? At least this is how I console myself as a parent and a cook.

Which brings me to Brussels sprouts. OK, I understand that you don't have to be a child genetically wired to preserve the human race to dislike Brussels sprouts. These little crucifers have been known to offend many a mature adult. But in our home, they are enjoyed -- at least by most of us. My son likes them, and, therefore, my daughter does not.

So, in a moment of inspiration and indefatigable hope, I purchased a bag of pert and pretty Brussels sprouts at the market with a plan. Instead of stir-frying or steaming them, I would cloak them in bechamel and cheese. For, while my daughter dislikes Brussels sprouts, she loves gratins. Anything cheesy, creamy and crispy is right up her alley. So, why not? I would give it a try. And you know what? She liked it. The problem is that my son, who dislikes rich and creamy food, did not.

Brussels Sprout Gratin

Active Time: 20 minutes

Total Time: 45 minutes

Yield: Serves 4

1 1/2 pounds Brussels sprouts

1 1/2 cups whole milk

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 garlic clove, minced

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1/2 cup grated Gruyere cheese

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

Pinch of cayenne

1/3 cup finely grated Parmesan or Pecorino Romano cheese

1/4 cup panko breadcrumbs

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Trim the outer leaves and bottoms of the Brussels sprouts and then cut them in half (quarter if large).

Steam the Brussels sprouts until they are crisp-tender, 5 to 7 minutes, depending on their size. Transfer to a large bowl.

Heat the milk in a small saucepan until lukewarm.

Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the garlic and saute until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the flour and stir with a wooden spoon to form a paste and lightly toast, about 2 minutes. Carefully pour in the milk in a steady stream, whisking to incorporate. Bring to a boil, and then reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until thickened, about 5 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the Gruyere cheese, salt, pepper, nutmeg and cayenne, and stir until smooth.

Pour the sauce over the Brussels sprouts and stir to thoroughly coat. Transfer to a 2-quart gratin dish.

Combine the Parmesan and breadcrumbs in a small bowl and sprinkle evenly over the Brussels sprouts. Bake in the oven until the top is golden brown and the Brussels sprouts are tender, about 25 minutes.

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