health

Fire Up the Big Pan for Father's Day

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | June 10th, 2019

Father's Day is around the corner, so get ready to fire up the grill and break out the big guns -- or in this case, the big paella pan. Paella is always fun to make and, of course, to eat. It's a perfect way to feed a crowd and your family, and the best way to make it is over a fire. When it's ready to serve, simply plunk it down in the center of the table and let everyone dig in. Family-style eating doesn't get better than this, which is a perfect way to celebrate Dad.

Myriad versions of paella exist, depending on region and taste, but there are specific ingredients to use and techniques to follow for authentic results.

The pan:

Think wide, low and flat. The key is to spread the rice in a thin layer, so that as many grains as possible are in contact with the bottom of the pan. This will ensure not only contact with the aromatics (soffrito), but the desired crispy bottom (socarrat) of the cooked paella. Paella pans are easy to find and affordable. I purchased my 15-inch pan for less than $30. Alternatively, a very large cast iron skillet will do the trick.

Rice:

Short-grain rice will absorb the liquid, remain relatively firm during cooking, and crisp -- long-grain rice will not. Use short-grain rice, preferably Spanish Bomba or Valencia. Risotto (arborio) rice may be substituted, if necessary. Note: Depending on the rice, cooking times may vary slightly.

Soffrito:

An important blend of sauteed aromatics, typically onion, garlic and grated ripe tomato, is used as a base to flavor the rice. It's important to saute the ingredients until the moisture from the tomato and the wine evaporates and the soffrito thickens, and let it deepen in color to build flavor.

Stock:

If possible, use a homemade stock; chicken or shrimp stock is ideal, although a good-quality store-bought chicken stock is a fine substitution. A key step is to add a generous pinch of saffron to the stock to infuse a subtle perfume and a burnished golden-red color.

Socarrat:

This is the holy grail of paella, the coveted crispy bottom that forms in the pan while the paella is cooking. To achieve this, a few techniques are imperative. Do not overload the pan, or the rice will not be able to dry out and will not crisp. And most important, do not stir the paella once the rice is spread in the pan and topped with the proteins. You will know if the rice is crisping when the paella begins to make crackling sounds. This is the sure-fire way to know when the paella is ready, so be sure to wait for the "snap-crackle-pop" before you remove the pan from the grill!

Grill it!

It's important for the pan to cook over an even heat source. A grill can accommodate the size of a large paella pan, unlike many stovetops. Plus, the fire will add a smoky backdrop to the dish. And finally, Father's Day really wouldn't be replete without heating up the grill, right?

Grilled Paella

Active Time: 1 hour

Total Time: 1 hour, plus standing time

Yield: Serves 6

4 plum (Roma) tomatoes, halved lengthwise

4 cups chicken stock

1/2 teaspoon saffron threads

1 pound boneless chicken thighs, cut into 1-inch pieces

Smoked sweet Spanish paprika

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 pound large (16/18) shrimp, shelled and deveined, tails intact

Extra-virgin olive oil

8 ounces Spanish chorizo, cut crosswise into 1/2-inch slices

1 medium yellow onion, chopped, about 1 cup

3 garlic cloves, minced

1/4 cup dry white wine

2 cups paella rice (Bomba or Valencia), rinsed

12 to 16 mussels, scrubbed and beards removed

1/4 cup chopped Italian parsley

Lemon wedges for serving

Grate the tomatoes, cut-side down, on a box grater. Discard the skins and transfer the pulp and juices to a small bowl.

Bring the stock to a simmer in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the saffron and keep warm over low heat.

Place the chicken in a bowl and season with 1 teaspoon paprika, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon black pepper and stir to coat. Put the shrimp in a separate bowl and season with 1/2 teaspoon paprika, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon black pepper and stir to coat.

Prepare the grill for direct cooking over medium heat. Preheat a 15-inch paella pan or large cast iron skillet for about 10 minutes.

Add 1 tablespoon olive oil to the paella pan. Add the chorizo and cook, with the lid closed, until the chorizo is golden brown on both sides, 3 to 4 minutes, turning as needed. With a slotted spoon, transfer the sausage to a bowl. There should be rendered fat from the chorizo remaining in the pan. If not, add 1 tablespoon oil to the pan. Arrange the chicken in one layer in the paella pan and cook until colored on both sides, 4 to 6 minutes, turning as needed. With a slotted spoon, transfer the chicken to the bowl with the chorizo. (The chicken will not be cooked all the way through at this point.)

If the pan is dry, add 1 tablespoon oil to the pan. Add the onion and saute until softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the garlic and 1 tablespoon smoked paprika and saute until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the grated tomatoes with juices and the wine, stir to combine, and cook, with the lid closed, until the liquid evaporates and the mixture thickens and darkens slightly, about 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the rice and 1 teaspoon salt and stir to coat. Pour in the stock, stir to blend, and smooth the rice in an even layer in the pan. (Do not stir the rice after this point!) Arrange the chicken and chorizo over the rice and drizzle any accumulated juices in the bowl over the rice.

Cook the paella, with the lid closed, until about 3/4 of the liquid is absorbed and the rice is exposed, turning the pan occasionally to ensure even cooking, about 15 minutes.

Nestle the shrimp and mussels (hinge-side down) into the rice and continue to cook, with the lid closed, until the shrimp are cooked through, the mussels have opened, and the rice is making a crackling sound, 10 to 12 more minutes, turning the pan occasionally to ensure even cooking.

Remove the paella pan from the grill and discard any unopened mussels. Let stand for 5 to 10 minutes. Sprinkle the parsley over the paella and garnish with lemon wedges. Serve immediately.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

health

Avocado KISS Theory (aka Keep It Simple)

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | June 3rd, 2019

Avocados are a healthy staple in the kitchen. Packed with vitamins, minerals and fiber, and high in monounsaturated fat, their creamy texture and mild flavor lend well to dips, smoothies, even ice cream, while their coolness provides a foil to spice and heat in salsas and salads. Having said that, one of the best ways to eat an avocado is as simply as possible, so its delicate flavor will stand out. And that's where avocado toast steps in.

There's no shortage of avocado toast on restaurant menus these days. From the straightforward smear to the vegetable-patch-piled garden variety, there's a toast for every appetite. I prefer my avocado toast simple: often sliced and layered on toasted country-style bread, adorned with a squeeze of lemon, a dribble of oil, freshly cracked black pepper and a pinch of sea salt flakes. Simplicity clearly rules in the technique, and in this case, it's key that every ingredient is of high quality -- from the bread (artisan country style), to a luscious drizzle-worthy extra-virgin olive oil, to my go-to Maldon sea salt flakes, which are stashed in my cupboard, solely reserved for strategic sprinkling and finishing.

Sometimes, if I am feeling fancy or entertaining, I'll nudge my toast up a notch, and brush the avocado slices with a thick lemon-balsamic reduction, which adds the glossy bling of a slick, sweet-tart glaze. Again, the same rule applies -- use a high-quality vinegar. If you have any leftover syrup, you can save it to drizzle over fresh strawberries or whisk into a salad dressing.

Avocado Toast with Balsamic Reduction

Active Time: 20 minutes

Total Time: 20 minutes

Yield: Serves: 1 to 2

1/4 cup balsamic vinegar


1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice


Sea salt


2 slices country-style bread, 1/2-inch thick

Extra-virgin olive oil


1 large garlic clove, peeled, partially smashed


1 large ripe but firm Hass avocado


Sea salt flakes and freshly cracked black pepper, for garnish

Make the glaze: Combine the balsamic vinegar, lemon juice and a pinch of sea salt in a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil and then simmer until the vinegar reduces by half and has a thick syrup consistency, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature.

Preheat the oven broiler or a grill pan. Lightly brush the bread slices on both sides with olive oil. Toast in the oven or on the pan until golden brown, turning once. Transfer to a plate and rub with the garlic clove.

Trim the tip of the avocado. Run a knife vertically around the center of the avocado, cutting into flesh until knife meets the pit. Gently twist the avocado open and remove pit. Carefully remove the skin, keeping the avocado intact.

Thinly slice each half crosswise, about 1/4-inch thick. Arrange the slices on the bread, overlapping. Brush with the balsamic syrup. Season with sea salt flakes and freshly cracked black pepper.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

health

What Grows Together Goes Together -- in a Fruit Crisp

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | May 27th, 2019

There's no better way to enjoy ripe fruit than in a good old-fashioned crisp. In the summer, stone fruit and berries reign supreme, while in the fall, apples and pears take over. This crisp was inspired by late spring's fresh rhubarb and boysenberries. I spied them at my weekend farmers market. A little rickety garden table in the far corner of the maze of stalls was lined with blotchy pint-sized cartons, stained blue and violet, from the juices of wild raspberries, blueberries and (best of all) boysenberries.

Boysenberries peak in a relatively short window from late spring to early summer here in California. They resemble a floppy cone-shaped blackberry, and taste like a tart cross between a blackberry and raspberry. Next to the berries was a wicker basket filled with dainty upright new rhubarb stalks awash in green and pink. The colorful messages were clear: Come and get us. And so I did.

I made this dessert for our dinner guests that night, one of whom is gluten-free. The topping was crisp, nutty and sweet, faintly spiced with cinnamon. It was delicious for gluten-free and gluten-lovers alike, and a perfect embellishment to my farmers market find. If you don't have access to boysenberries, feel free to substitute blackberries or raspberries.

Rhubarb Boysenberry Crisp

Active Time: 20 minutes

Total Time: about 1 hour, plus cooling time

Yield: Serves 6

Topping:

3/4 cup almond meal

3/4 cup rolled oats (gluten-free or regular)

1/2 cup walnuts

1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, chilled

Filling:

1 1/2 pounds rhubarb, cut into 1/2-inch pieces (about 4 cups)

2 cups boysenberries

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Combine all of the topping ingredients, except the butter, in the bowl of a food processor and pulse to coarsely chop the walnuts. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal.

Place the rhubarb and half of the boysenberries in a bowl. Sprinkle the sugar over and gently mix to combine. Whisk the lemon juice and cornstarch in a small bowl. Pour over the fruit, add the zest, and gently stir to coat. Spread the fruit in an 8-by-8-inch (or similar size) baking dish, or, alternatively, divide the fruit between individual gratin dishes. Arrange the remaining boysenberries over the top of the fruit, and then evenly spread the topping over the fruit.

Bake in the oven until the topping is golden brown, the rhubarb is soft, and the juices are bubbling, about 45 minutes. If the topping browns before the filling is fully cooked, then loosely cover with foil to prevent burning. Remove and cool. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

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