health

What Grows Together Goes Together -- in a Fruit Crisp

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | May 27th, 2019

There's no better way to enjoy ripe fruit than in a good old-fashioned crisp. In the summer, stone fruit and berries reign supreme, while in the fall, apples and pears take over. This crisp was inspired by late spring's fresh rhubarb and boysenberries. I spied them at my weekend farmers market. A little rickety garden table in the far corner of the maze of stalls was lined with blotchy pint-sized cartons, stained blue and violet, from the juices of wild raspberries, blueberries and (best of all) boysenberries.

Boysenberries peak in a relatively short window from late spring to early summer here in California. They resemble a floppy cone-shaped blackberry, and taste like a tart cross between a blackberry and raspberry. Next to the berries was a wicker basket filled with dainty upright new rhubarb stalks awash in green and pink. The colorful messages were clear: Come and get us. And so I did.

I made this dessert for our dinner guests that night, one of whom is gluten-free. The topping was crisp, nutty and sweet, faintly spiced with cinnamon. It was delicious for gluten-free and gluten-lovers alike, and a perfect embellishment to my farmers market find. If you don't have access to boysenberries, feel free to substitute blackberries or raspberries.

Rhubarb Boysenberry Crisp

Active Time: 20 minutes

Total Time: about 1 hour, plus cooling time

Yield: Serves 6

Topping:

3/4 cup almond meal

3/4 cup rolled oats (gluten-free or regular)

1/2 cup walnuts

1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, chilled

Filling:

1 1/2 pounds rhubarb, cut into 1/2-inch pieces (about 4 cups)

2 cups boysenberries

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Combine all of the topping ingredients, except the butter, in the bowl of a food processor and pulse to coarsely chop the walnuts. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal.

Place the rhubarb and half of the boysenberries in a bowl. Sprinkle the sugar over and gently mix to combine. Whisk the lemon juice and cornstarch in a small bowl. Pour over the fruit, add the zest, and gently stir to coat. Spread the fruit in an 8-by-8-inch (or similar size) baking dish, or, alternatively, divide the fruit between individual gratin dishes. Arrange the remaining boysenberries over the top of the fruit, and then evenly spread the topping over the fruit.

Bake in the oven until the topping is golden brown, the rhubarb is soft, and the juices are bubbling, about 45 minutes. If the topping browns before the filling is fully cooked, then loosely cover with foil to prevent burning. Remove and cool. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

health

When Homemade Is Better Than the Box

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | May 20th, 2019

When I was young, one of my favorite side dishes was rice pilaf. It came in a slim box with a portion of rice and a sachet of spices, dehydrated chicken stock -- and goodness knows what else -- all set to prepare with water on the stovetop. The results were salty, addictive and aromatically flavored. My brothers and I would fight over who got to finish the bowl on the dinner table; one box was never enough.

These days, I make pilaf from scratch -- and you probably do, too, without realizing it. The principle behind pilaf is that rice, or another grain such as bulgur or farro, is sauteed to lightly toast the grains, and then steamed in a flavorful broth, along with a few aromatics such as onion, garlic and spices. When ready to serve, the rice is fluffed to separate the grains and prevent stickiness, and handfuls of fresh herbs, chopped almonds or chilies are added for extra flavor, crunch and color.

You can choose to keep the rice simple or add the garnishes selectively to your taste. I tend to pile them all on, because rice pilaf always seems to bring out the hoarder in me -- and they do add sensational taste. So, before you reach for a box of pilaf in the supermarket with a long list of multisyllabic ingredients, remember that it's really quite easy -- and much cheaper -- to make your own from scratch.

Homemade Rice Pilaf

Active Time: 10 minutes

Total Time: 45 minutes

Yield: Serves 6 as a side dish

2 3/4 cups chicken stock

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika

Generous pinch of saffron threads

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup orzo

1 small yellow onion, finely chopped, about 1/2 cup

1 garlic clove, minced

1 1/4 cup basmati rice

Optional garnishes:

1 scallion, white and green parts thinly sliced

1 small red jalapeno, finely chopped

2 to 3 tablespoons coarsely chopped almonds

2 to 3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

Combine the stock, 2 tablespoons butter, the salt, paprika and saffron in a medium saucepan. Bring to a simmer and keep warm.

Heat the oil and melt the remaining 1 tablespoon butter in a deep skillet (with a lid) over medium heat. Add the orzo and saute until light golden, about 2 minutes. Add the onion and saute for about 1 minute, and then add the garlic and saute until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the rice and continue to cook, stirring constantly to coat and lightly toast the rice, for about 2 minutes.

Pour in the stock and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low and cover the pot. Cook, undisturbed, until the rice is tender and the liquid is absorbed, about 25 minutes. Remove the lid and fluff the rice with a fork. Let stand for 5 to 10 minutes.

Serve with the garnishes sprinkled over the top.

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health

Winner, Winner Chicken Dinner

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | May 13th, 2019

If you are searching for an easy and rewarding family dinner, then look no further than a chicken. A whole roasted chicken is a weeknight wonder, yielding a bounty of comforting food with little effort. It will fill your home with tantalizing aromas while it roasts, amply feed a family of four with leftovers for lunch, and bestow you with the goods for a rich and restorative stock. For complete dinner ease, throw a bunch of sturdy vegetables, such as potatoes or root vegetables, into the pan around the chicken, and let them braise in the pan juices while the chicken cooks.

I roast a chicken like this nearly every week. For variety, I will change it up with a rub or a marinade, depending on the mood or season. Prefer something cozy and traditional for a gray and rainy day? Then keep it simple with olive oil, rosemary, thyme and pan gravy. Feeling spicy? Give it a dry rub with an elixir of Southwestern spices spiked with cayenne.

Craving travel and far-flung inspiration? Then try this heady recipe, and slather the chicken with a thick yogurt marinade infused with lemon, garlic, cardamom and ginger. The yogurt is a wonderful tenderizer, is commonly used in Middle Eastern and Indian dishes as a marinade, and imparts a delicious tang. It's also a great vehicle for a shower of spices and aromatics that will satisfy any culinary wanderlust influencing your craving.

Yogurt Marinated Chicken and Potatoes With Lemon, Garlic and Ginger

Active Time: 20 minutes

Total Time: 1 hour and 30 minutes, plus resting time

Yield: Serves 4 to 6

For the chicken:

1 whole free-range or organic chicken, 4 to 5 pounds

3 garlic cloves, minced

1/4 cup Greek whole milk yogurt

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon finely grated peeled fresh ginger

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

1 teaspoon ground cardamom

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

For the potatoes:

1 1/2 to 2 pounds baby potatoes, halved if large

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon paprika

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Fresh cilantro for garnish

Thirty minutes before roasting, remove the chicken from the refrigerator. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Rinse the chicken all over and inside the cavity with cold water and pat dry with paper towels.

Combine the garlic, yogurt, lemon juice, olive oil, ginger, salt, lemon zest, cardamom and black pepper in a small bowl and whisk to blend. Rub the paste all over the outside of the chicken, between the skin and breast, and inside the cavity. Place, breast-side up, in the center of a baking pan or large ovenproof skillet.

Prepare the potatoes: Toss the potatoes, olive oil, paprika, salt and black pepper in a bowl. Scatter the potatoes around the chicken.

Transfer the pan to the oven and roast for 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and, using tongs, carefully turn the chicken over, breast-side down. Stir the potatoes. Return the pan to the oven and bake for 20 minutes.

Remove and once again turn the chicken over, breast-side up. Return to the oven and cook until chicken is thoroughly cooked and thigh juices run clear when pierced with a knife, about 20 minutes, depending on the size of the chicken. (If the chicken becomes too dark before thoroughly cooked, lightly cover with foil.)

Remove from the oven and transfer the chicken to a cutting board. Loosely tent with foil and let rest 10 to 15 minutes before carving.

Carve the chicken and serve with the potatoes and the pan juices. Garnish with fresh cilantro.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

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