health

Cool Soups Are Not Just for Summer

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | April 22nd, 2019

With warmer days on the way, chilled soups are a bright and refreshing alternative to a steaming bowl of soup. And while cool soups are certainly a solution to the heat of summer, they are also delicious year-round. In fact, the slightly chilled temperature often amplifies the flavor and freshness of the ingredients, especially when the soup is as elegantly simple as this pea soup.

Light and luscious, this pea soup is a lovely spring teaser. A billowy puree of sweet peas is lifted and brightened by swirls of lemon-flecked creme fraiche. The anise-scented tarragon and slivers of peppery pink radish finish the soup, adding a shock of contrasting color and the satisfying bite of a crisp crudite.

I prefer the savory flavor of the chicken stock in this recipe, but additional water may be substituted for a vegetarian version -- in which case, be sure to taste and adjust the seasoning accordingly. The soup may be served slightly chilled or at room temperature. Serve as a light first course for three to four people, or divvy it up between six to eight demitasse cups for a pretty appetizer.

Chilled Pea Soup With Creme Fraiche, Lemon and Tarragon

Active Time: 20 minutes

Total Time: 20 minutes, plus cooling time

Yield: About 2 1/2 cups

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 large shallot, finely chopped, about 1/4 cup

3 cups shelled English peas

1 cup chicken stock (or water)

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 cup water

1/3 cup creme fraiche (or plain whole-milk Greek yogurt)

1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

Sliced radishes and fresh tarragon leaves, for garnish

Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallots and saute until translucent without coloring, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the peas and saute until bright and crisp-tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the stock, salt and pepper and simmer until the peas are very tender, 3 to 4 minutes.

Carefully transfer to a food processor and process until smooth. Add 1 cup water, 1/4 cup at a time, until you reach your desired consistency. (The soup should be a little thick and not too runny.) Taste for seasoning and transfer to a bowl to cool to room temperature.

Whisk the creme fraiche and lemon zest in a small bowl.

Divide the soup between serving bowls or small cups. Add a spoonful of the cream to the soup and gently swirl, leaving light traces of the cream visible. Garnish each serving with 1 to 2 radish slices and sprinkle with snipped tarragon leaves.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

health

Magic Mushroom Dust

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | April 15th, 2019

Not those kind of mushrooms, silly. You want these mushrooms -- namely, dried porcini mushrooms -- in your kitchen. They keep indefinitely in your pantry and can easily be reconstituted for use with pasta, risotto, soups and sauces. Or you can simply blitz the heck out of them and turn them into dust.

Porcini mushroom dust is a magical elixir, fragrant with umami-rich aroma and flavor, and a gorgeous ingredient to add to rubs and marinades. Its earthy, smoky flavor melds beautifully with garlic and herbs, such as rosemary and thyme, and is an excellent complement to meats, such as beef and lamb, when used as a rub.

While dried porcini mushrooms are pricey by the pound, the good news is that you don't need a lot of them to make this rub -- all you need is a half-ounce. When the mushrooms are dried, their flavor intensifies, so a little goes a long way. Other dried mushrooms, such as shiitakes, may be substituted, but in terms of flavor, the porcini is best. I use a spice grinder to blitz the mushrooms before mixing them with the rub ingredients, for a pasty consistency. If you don't have a spice grinder, you can use a mini-food processor, with slightly coarser results.

Note: If the dried mushrooms are slightly spongy and not entirely crisp before grinding, cut them into 1/2-inch pieces, spread on a small baking tray, and place in a 300-degree oven for 10 to 12 minutes. Remove and cool to room temperature before grinding.

Porcini and Rosemary Crusted Lamb Loin Chops

Active Time: 20 minutes

Total Time: 30 minutes, plus 20 minutes drying time if needed

Yield: Serves 4

1/2 ounce dried porcini mushrooms

4 tablespoons olive oil, divided

1 large garlic clove, minced

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary leaves

1 teaspoon sea salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

8 lamb loin chops, each about 1-inch thick

Finely grind the mushrooms in a spice grinder. Transfer to a small bowl and add 3 tablespoons oil, garlic, rosemary, salt and black pepper and stir to blend.

Coat the lamb on all sides with the rub and let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium-high heat in a large ovenproof skillet. Add the lamb to the pan without overcrowding. Cook until brown on both sides, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer the skillet to the oven and cook to your desired doneness, about 8 to 10 minutes for medium-rare. Remove from the oven, tent with foil, and let rest 10 minutes before serving.

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health

A Springtime Salad Showstopper

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | April 8th, 2019

Have you been tasked with bringing a springtime platter of food to feed a crowd for brunch later this month? I make a version of this sunny salad for Easter brunch every year. It's a lovely way to show off the season's new asparagus, while ticking the boxes for fresh, gluten-free and crowd-pleasing, with a visual wow-factor worthy of a buffet spread.

The garnishes make all of the difference in this salad. Oven-crisped prosciutto yields satisfyingly crunchy, salty shards to the al dente asparagus, and a topping of egg mimosa not only symbolizes spring, it's pretty darn colorful. Wait, Mimosa, you ask? No, I am not talking about the sparkly champagne brunch cocktail (although that would make a mighty fine accompaniment to this salad). Mimosa is a French culinary term that refers to finely grated or sieved hard-cooked eggs, which are dusted over salads and vegetables or used as the key ingredient in deviled eggs. You might understand why the eloquent-minded French would select the term "mimosa" for such a preparation. Not only is it wonderfully poetic and mellifluous to say, it's also apt in description: The crumbled canary yellow yolk of the egg resembles the brilliant mimosa flower, which blooms early in the spring.

The whole salad is napped together with a bright and lemony vinaigrette and finished with delicate spring herbs, such as tarragon and chervil. If you are looking for a springtime salad statement, this is your salad.

Roasted Asparagus Salad With Crispy Prosciutto and Egg Mimosa

Active Time: 30 minutes

Total Time: 30 minutes

Yield: Serves 4 to 6

1 pound asparagus (medium thickness), ends trimmed

1 tablespoon plus 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

4 ounces prosciutto

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon champagne vinegar

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

4 ounces mixed spring greens (such as arugula, mizuna, spinach)

2 hard-cooked eggs

1/4 cup fresh tarragon or chervil, chopped

Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Spread the asparagus on a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon olive oil, lightly season with salt and pepper, and turn to coat. Transfer to the oven and roast until the asparagus are bright green and crisp-tender, 8 to 10 minutes depending on the thickness of the stalks. Remove and transfer the asparagus to a plate to cool. Do not turn off the oven.

While the asparagus cool, arrange the prosciutto in one layer on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Transfer to the oven and bake until the prosciutto is shriveled and firm to the touch, 12 to 14 minutes. Remove and cool to room temperature (the prosciutto will continue to harden as it cools). Break the slices into shards.

Whisk the 1/3 cup oil, the lemon juice, champagne vinegar, mustard, and 1/4 teaspoon salt in a small bowl.

Spread the greens on a serving platter or in a wide, shallow serving bowl. Arrange the asparagus in the center of the greens. Drizzle the dressing around the asparagus. Grate the eggs over the asparagus, and then sprinkle the prosciutto shards and the tarragon over the entire salad. Garnish with freshly ground black pepper. Serve at room temperature.

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