health

Carbonara: The Roman Answer to Comfort Food

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | March 4th, 2019

When I crave a comforting weeknight meal that's guaranteed to please the entire family and can be whipped up in less than 30 minutes, I make a pasta carbonara.

There is nothing more pleasing than a bowl of cheese-slicked noodles, the Roman answer to homey comfort food. A mere handful of ingredients usually stashed in the refrigerator -- eggs, cheese and frozen peas -- are effortlessly transformed into a rich, glistening sauce coating a heaping bowl of pasta studded with crispy bacon bits and sweet peas. While the peas are optional, I like to include them as a fresh and sweet counterpoint to the salty bacon. They also allow me to righteously call this a complete meal, with vegetables, in a bowl.

The key to making carbonara is to add the whisked eggs and cheese to the hot noodles away from direct heat, while stirring constantly to thoroughly coat the noodles. The heat from the pasta will help to cook the eggs while preventing them from scrambling. It may sound complicated, but once you give it a go, you will see how easy and foolproof this method is.

Spaghetti Carbonara With Sweet Peas

Active time: 15 minutes

Total time: 15 minutes

Yield: 4 servings

1 pound spaghetti or bucatini

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

6 ounces thick-cut bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

2 large eggs

1 cup finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese, plus more for sprinkling

1 cup (or more if desired) frozen sweet peas, thawed

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, or to taste

Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Add the spaghetti and cook until al dente and drain.

While the pasta is cooking, heat the oil in a large skillet over medium. Add the bacon, stirring to separate the pieces, and cook until the fat is rendered and the bacon is golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer the bacon with a slotted spoon to a plate lined with a paper towel.

While the bacon is cooking, whisk the eggs and cheese in a bowl until smooth; set aside. Drain off all but 2 tablespoons fat from the pan. Add the peas, garlic and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute.

Add the drained pasta to the skillet and stir to coat the noodles. Remove the pan from the heat and quickly add the eggs and cheese, stirring constantly to coat the pasta and to prevent the eggs from scrambling. Return the bacon to the pan and stir once more. Serve immediately with extra cheese for sprinkling.

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health

Simple Salmon and an Addictive Tapenade

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | February 25th, 2019

I'll be honest. The real star of this salmon dish is the green olive and almond tapenade. No offense to the salmon, which is sublime as always and a no-fail, simple, healthy meal.

But, frankly, it's the tapenade I want to talk about: It's positively addictive with a briny brightness that complements the buttery, rich salmon. It's also versatile. Not only is the tapenade a worthy accompaniment to grilled fish (swordfish, cod and halibut are also good contenders), it's a great stand-alone starter spooned on crostini or sprinkled over pizzas, pasta and grains.

The good news is that this recipe makes a generous amount of tapenade, so you can refrigerate the leftovers. Then you will have extra to smear on a slice of bread or swipe a carrot stick through. You might even find yourself eating it straight from the bowl with a spoon. I'm speaking from experience.

Roasted Salmon With Green Olive Tapenade

Active time: 10 minutes

Total time: about 40 minutes

Yield: 4 servings; makes about 1 1/2 cups tapenade

Tapenade:

12 ounces pitted green olives

1/2 cup almonds, toasted

2 anchovies, drained

1 large garlic clove

2 teaspoons capers

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Salmon:

4 (6-ounce) salmon fillets, pin bones removed

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for garnish

Juice of 1/2 lemon, plus 4 lemon wedges for serving

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Make the tapenade: Place all of the ingredients in the bowl of a food processor and process to a coarse paste, without letting it get mushy. (The tapenade may be stored in the refrigerator for up to three days.)

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Arrange the salmon in one layer in a roasting pan, skin-side down. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons oil and the lemon juice. Lightly season with salt and pepper to taste. Bake in the oven until the salmon is just cooked through the center, about 25 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fillets.

Transfer to serving plates and top each fillet with about 2 tablespoons of the tapenade. Garnish each fillet with a lemon wedge before serving.

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health

You Say Risotto, We Say Farrotto

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | February 18th, 2019

Surely, you've heard of risotto. Well, when you switch out the rice in risotto with farro, you end up with farrotto. Like rice, the farro grains steep and simmer in a stock, but, unlike arborio rice, there is no need to stir the grains nonstop, which is great for a busy cook. Farro grains have a hearty, chewy texture without the starch found in rice. This means that it won't succumb to mushiness, and each nutty whole-wheat grain maintains its shape while cooking. You can't help but feel healthy when you eat it, and its sturdy wholesomeness makes it an especially satisfying winter dish.

Because farro is so hearty, it teams up nicely with equally earthy ingredients. Umami-rich shiitake mushrooms and sweet, nutty yellow beets are perfect accompaniments to this hefty side dish. For an even more substantial meal, you can add crumbled goat cheese to the farrotto, and call it a vegetarian dinner (just be sure to switch out the chicken stock for mushroom stock). Other sweet root vegetables, such as carrots or rutabagas, may be substituted for the beets.

Farrotto With Shiitake Mushrooms and Yellow Beets

Active time: about 1 hour

Total time: about 1 hour

Yield: 4 servings

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

2 tablespoons olive oil, divided

1 small shallot, finely chopped, about 2 tablespoons

8 ounces shiitake mushrooms, sliced 1/4 inch thick

Sea salt to taste plus 3/4 teaspoon, divided

1 large garlic clove, minced

1 teaspoon thyme

1 cup semi-pearled farro, rinsed and drained

1/4 cup dry white wine

2 cups chicken stock (or mushroom stock for vegetarian version)

1 medium yellow beet, about 8 ounces, peeled and diced

2 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley, plus extra for garnish

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup crumbled fresh goat cheese or feta, optional

Melt the butter with 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallot and saute until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the mushrooms, lightly season with salt, and cook until they begin to soften and release their juices, 3 to 4 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the garlic and thyme and saute until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the farro and cook until slightly toasted, about 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Pour in the wine and stir until absorbed. Add the stock and 1/2 teaspoon salt and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and cover the pot. Simmer until the farro is tender and the liquid has been absorbed, 30 to 40 minutes.

While the farro is cooking, heat the oven to 400 degrees. Toss the beets, 1 tablespoon oil and 1/4 teaspoon salt in a bowl. Spread on a small rimmed baking sheet or in a baking pan and roast in the oven until the beets are tender and golden brown in spots, about 20 minutes.

When the farro is ready, stir in the beets, parsley and black pepper. Serve garnished with additional parsley and crumbled fresh goat cheese, if using.

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