health

Breakfast for Dinner, Tunisian-style

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | January 7th, 2019

"Shakshuka" is a traditional Tunisian breakfast composed of simmered tomatoes, peppers, aromatics and poached eggs. It's meant to be spicy, which is a nifty DIY method for keeping cool in the Saharan heat. (The more you sweat, the more you cool off.) As for us, it's a warm meal that screams comfort food, perfect in the dead of winter.

The Tunisians call shakshuka breakfast, but I've added sausage, spinach and chickpeas and prefer to call it dinner. It's delicious as is, served with crusty bread for mopping up the egg yolk and the sauce. For a complete meal, spoon prepared couscous into shallow serving bowls. Make a well in the center of the couscous, and ladle the ragout and egg into the center of the couscous.

Prepare this in a deep 10-inch skillet and serve family-style at the table. If you have individual skillets (pictured), then prepare the ragout in one large skillet or pot. Before you add the eggs, divide the ragout between individual skillets placed on the stovetop over medium heat, and add one egg to each skillet. Chard or kale leaves may be substituted for the spinach.

Sausage Tomato Ragout With Poached Eggs and Chickpeas

Active Time: 45 minutes

Total Time: 45 minutes

Serves 4 to 6

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

1/2 pound hot Italian or chorizo sausage, sliced 1/2 inch thick

1 medium onion, chopped (about 1 cup)

1 large garlic clove, minced

2 teaspoons smoked paprika

2 teaspoons sweet paprika

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 (28-ounce) can Italian plum tomatoes with juice

1 (14-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

1 to 2 teaspoons harissa or hot sauce, to taste

1 bunch spinach, stems discarded, leaves coarsely chopped

4 to 6 large eggs

Chopped fresh cilantro or parsley for garnish

Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a deep ovenproof skillet over medium-high. Add the sausage and brown on all sides, about 4 minutes. Transfer the sausage with a slotted spoon to a plate lined with a paper towel. Discard the oil from the pan, but do not rinse out the skillet.

Add 1 tablespoon olive oil and the onion to the skillet and saute over medium heat until the onion begins to soften, about 2 minutes, scraping up any brown bits. Add the garlic, paprika and cumin and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds, stirring constantly. Return the sausage to the pan and add the tomatoes, chickpeas, salt and harissa. Stir to combine and taste for seasoning. If more heat is desired, add more harissa or hot sauce to taste.

Simmer the ragout, partially covered, over medium-low heat, to slightly thicken and allow the flavors to develop, about 20 minutes, stirring and breaking up the tomatoes with a spoon. Stir in the spinach and cook until slightly wilted, about 2 minutes.

Make an indentation or well in the ragout with a spoon. Crack 1 egg in a small bowl and gently slide the egg into the indentation. Repeat with the remaining eggs, taking care to not overlap the eggs. Cover the skillet and simmer over medium-low heat until the egg whites are set but the yolks remain runny, about 10 minutes. Serve immediately.

Remove from heat. Serve family style or spoon the ragout with 1 egg into individual serving bowls. Garnish with chopped fresh cilantro or parsley.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

health

Fondue: It's More Than a '70s-Style Party

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | December 31st, 2018

It perplexes me when the subject of cheese fondue comes up, and it's often accompanied by a smile and a reference to the '70s. This quintessential alpine dish should not be relegated to that bygone era evoking images of shag rugs, shaggier hair and textured bell-bottoms. This was certainly not intended when the rural inhabitants of Swiss and French mountainous villages devised a warming winter dish incorporating their local cheese and winter staples.

Switzerland will always be considered home to our family. I lived there for 10 years following my stint at cooking school in Paris. My husband and I were married in Switzerland, and our children were born there. As an expat in Geneva, it was a delicious pleasure to embrace Swiss specialties, namely cheese, which we enjoyed in all of its forms. The Swiss tradition of melting cheese in deep pots with wine and spirits quickly became a family favorite. When we eventually moved away from Switzerland, I became more reliant on making my own version of fondue for wintry family dinners to satisfy our cravings.

This recipe has been tweaked and fine-tuned over the years, influenced by taste and available ingredients. In addition to serving it with the usual bread, I like to pass around bowls of parboiled baby potatoes, cauliflower and broccoli florets for dipping. Do not skimp on the cheese. Purchase the best-quality, cave-aged Swiss or French alpine cheese you can find, such as Gruyere, Emmental, Comte or Beaufort, and feel free to blend them to your taste. I like to use a blend of two-thirds Gruyere to one-third Emmental.

Alpine Cheese Fondue

Active time: 20 minutes

Total time: 20 minutes

Yield: 6 servings

1/4 cup Calvados or Poire Williams brandy

3 tablespoons cornstarch

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus extra for serving

1/4 teaspoon nutmeg

3 cups dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc

1 garlic clove, minced

1 1/2 pounds alpine cheese, such as Gruyere and Emmental, coarsely grated

1 loaf country style or sourdough bread, cut in 3/4-inch cubes

(Note: Have all of your ingredients ready before you begin. Once you start, the fondue will come together quickly, and during this time it must be constantly stirred. The fondue must not come to a boil during this time.)

Whisk the brandy, cornstarch, salt, 1/2 teaspoon black pepper and the nutmeg in a small bowl, until smooth. Set aside.

Combine the wine and garlic in a large heavy saucepan or fondue pot. Heat over medium until tiny bubbles form, giving the wine a fizzy appearance without bringing to a boil. Add the cheese one handful at a time, stirring constantly, until each handful is melted before adding the next -- do not let the fondue boil.

Once the cheese is added, continue stirring 1 minute -- do not let the fondue boil.

Stir in the cornstarch mixture and continue stirring until it thickens to a fondue consistency. (Some cornstarch brands thicken more easily than others. If your fondue remains thin, whisk 1 more tablespoon cornstarch with 2 tablespoons white wine and stir into the cheese.)

When the fondue is ready, remove from the heat. Pour cheese into a warm fondue pot if necessary and place over a fondue burner. Serve immediately with extra ground pepper, the bread, and parboiled vegetables such as small potatoes, cauliflower and broccoli florets.

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health

An All-Day Everyday Kind of Cake

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | December 24th, 2018

This light and moist cake will carry you through the holidays and, for that matter, any day. Redolent with orange and cardamom and spiked with Grand Marnier, it's delicious for brunch or afternoon tea and spiffy enough for dessert. Almond flour adds a slight nuttiness and wholesome crumb to the cake. Do not skimp on the orange zest, as it adds a zing of citrus flavor and fragrance. The sea salt is optional in the glaze, but if you lean that way, really go for it.

The flavors of the cake will develop while it cools, and the glaze will ensure lasting moistness, which makes this cake an entertainer's best friend. Store the cake at room temperature for up to three days, but it will likely be eaten before that.

Orange Cardamom Olive Oil Cake

Active time: 20 minutes

Total time: 1 hour plus cooling time

Yield: 8 to 10 servings

Cake:

4 large eggs

1 1/4 cups sugar

3/4 cup olive oil

3/4 cup fresh orange juice

1 tablespoon (packed) finely grated orange zest

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/2 teaspoon almond extract

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup almond meal

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon ground cardamom

3/4 teaspoon salt

Glaze:

1/4 cup sugar

1/4 cup fresh orange juice

1 tablespoon Grand Marnier or Cointreau (optional)

Pinch of sea salt

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 9-inch spring-form pan; line with parchment and butter the parchment.

Whisk the eggs and sugar in a large bowl until light in color. Add the olive oil, orange juice, zest, vanilla and almond extracts and stir to blend.

Combine the flour, almond meal, baking powder, baking soda, cardamom and salt in a separate bowl. Add to the wet ingredients, stirring to blend without overmixing. Pour into the prepared pan.

Bake until the cake is golden brown and a knife inserted into the center comes out clean, about 45 minutes.

While the cake is baking, prepare the glaze. Combine the sugar and orange juice in a small saucepan. Simmer until the sugar dissolves and the liquid reduces to a syrupy consistency, about 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the liqueur, if using, and sea salt and simmer briefly, about 1 minute, stirring frequently.

Transfer the cake from the oven to a wire rack. Brush the top with the glaze and cool 10 minutes. Remove the sides of the pan, and then brush the sides of the cake with the glaze. Cool completely.

Serve dusted with confectioners' sugar and/or with whipped cream. If desired, add a tablespoon of the (thoroughly cooled) glaze to the cream while whipping. Cake can be stored at room temperature for up to three days.

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