It's that time of year when vegetables sneak up on you. Early in the summer, squash, eggplant and peppers are a mere hint in the garden, peeking out from their blossoms, while in the market they are just becoming available in small amounts for a steep price. These early season purchases are a little premature, a bit too eager and cost too much for something you know will soon be abundant.

Then, before you can say, "ratatouille," it's the end of the summer, and zucchini, eggplant and peppers are teeming everywhere. The garden is lobbing them at you like tennis balls, and the market shelves are stacked with a vibrant cornucopia of Provencal vegetables, providing eye candy ripe and ready for consumption. With such a bounty, it's important to be creative, because, ironically, it's easy to tire of this abundance at the end of the season -- and that would be a shame. So, I was determined to use my imagination to celebrate this end-of-summer bounty. Turning to the tried-and-true ratatouille for inspiration, I made this gratin.

It's super-simple and relatively light as far as gratins go. Layered with vegetables and basil and sprinkled with mild goat cheese, it's delicious served warm or at room temperature.

Try to choose squash and eggplant of a similar diameter. This recipe makes enough for an 8- to 9-inch square or round pan. Alternatively, you can arrange the vegetables in smaller, individual gratin dishes.

Ratatouille Gratin With Goat Cheese and Basil

Active time: 30 minutes

Total time: 45 minutes

Yield: 4 servings

1 narrow eggplant, about 10 ounces

1 medium zucchini, about 6 ounces

1 medium yellow squash, about 6 ounces

1 large red bell pepper, quartered and seeded

Olive oil to coat the tray and dish, and to brush the vegetables

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1/2 cup basil leaves, torn into 1/2-inch pieces, plus extra for garnish

3 ounces soft fresh goat cheese

Preheat the oven broiler.

Slice the eggplant, zucchini and yellow squash crosswise about 1/3 inch thick. (If the eggplant is much wider than the squash, quarter lengthwise and slice 1/3 inch thick.)

Arrange the eggplant, zucchini, squash and pepper in one layer on an oiled baking tray. Brush the tops with additional oil and lightly season with salt and black pepper. Broil on the top shelf of the oven until the vegetables are tender but not mushy, and brown in spots, 8 to 10 minutes, turning once. Remove vegetables; let cool until they are cool to the touch.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Lightly oil an 8- or 9-inch square or round gratin dish. Arrange the vegetables, alternating and slightly overlapping, in rows or a circular pattern. Tuck the basil between the vegetables in a random pattern, so that it is evenly distributed. Scatter grape-size amounts of the goat cheese evenly over the vegetables.

Bake the gratin in the oven until the cheese is soft and lightly golden in spots, about 15 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature, garnished with extra basil if desired.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

This apricot dessert is simple, fresh and seasonal -- a golden rule of cooking, which is easy to follow when summer produce is at its peak. It requires only a few ingredients that allow the sweet, ripe apricots to shine. Greek yogurt is used as a garnish, a wondrously rich yogurt that is naturally thick, creamy -- and healthy. For a jolt of oozing sweetness, a little sugar is sprinkled over each apricot half, which is bruleed until the sugar dissolves. As the apricots cook, the fruit will soften and virtually melt into itself, held together by the soft skin, while caramelized sugar pools in the center. A dollop of whisked yogurt, lightly sweetened and brightened with lemon, is spooned over the top or to the side of the fruit -- you decide -- serving as a cool complement to the apricot's warmth. It's a luscious and fresh end to any meal. Your guests will be licking their plates.

Grilled Apricots With Yogurt and Lemon

Active time: 15 minutes

Total time: 15 minutes

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

1/4 cup plus 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar

1/4 cup light brown sugar, plus extra for garnish

6 ripe but not-too-soft apricots, halved lengthwise and pitted

Canola oil for brushing

3/4 cup Greek whole milk yogurt

1/2 teaspoon finely grated fresh lemon zest, plus extra for garnish

Prepare the grill for direct cooking over medium heat.

Mix the 1/4 cup sugar and the brown sugar in a small bowl.

Lightly brush the cut sides of the apricots with canola oil. Arrange the apricots, cut-side down, on the grill grates or in a grill pan. Grill until the apricots begin to color, about 2 minutes. Flip the apricots and sprinkle the sugar mixture evenly over each half. Continue to grill until the centers are bubbly and beginning to caramelize, 3 to 5 minutes. Divide the apricots between serving plates.

Whisk the yogurt, the 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar and the 1/2 teaspoon lemon zest together in a small bowl. Spoon a little yogurt over each apricot half. Sprinkle with a little brown sugar and extra lemon zest for garnish.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

When the weather is hot and shouty, then why not shout back with skewers of fiery meat? These steak skewers are not only cooked over a flame, they are also bathed in a heady lime and garlic marinade that tenderizes and infuses the meat with bold flavor and kicking spice.

But don't stop there: Raise the flavor-and-heat bar further by serving the skewers with a feisty sauce inspired by Zhoug, a condiment hailing from the Middle East. It's a heat-spiked herbaceous blend that's a cross between chimichurri and harissa -- arguably, a match made in heaven. You can keep the steaks in large cuts, or, better yet, slice them into strips and thread the pieces on skewers for fun party food. Serve the sauce on the side, so the meat can be gingerly dabbed or generously swiped -- leave it up to your guests' heat threshold to dictate the amount.

Skirt steak, flank steak or hanger steak may be used for this recipe. Each of these cuts of meat love a marinade, which helps to tenderize their natural toughness. When cutting the meat into strips, be sure to cut across the grain (the way that the muscle fibers are aligned). By doing this, you will cut up the muscle fibers, which would otherwise increase chewiness. Grill the meat quickly over direct high heat for best results.

Grilled Skirt Steak Skewers With Green Chili Sauce

Active time: 25 minutes

Total time: 25 minutes, plus 4 to 6 hours marinating time

Yield: serves 4 to 6 as a main course

Marinade:

3 tablespoons fresh lime juice

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons dark brown sugar

1 tablespoon Sriracha

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 teaspoon cumin

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 pounds skirt steak, cut against the grain in 1-inch strips

Sauce:

1 large poblano pepper, stemmed, coarsely chopped

1 large jalapeno pepper, stemmed, coarsely chopped

2 garlic cloves

1 cup (packed) cilantro sprigs

1 cup (packed) parsley sprigs

1/2 cup (packed) mint leaves

Juice of 1 lime

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Whisk all of the marinade ingredients except the steak in a small bowl. Place the steak strips in a wide bowl. Pour the marinade over and turn to coat. Cover and refrigerate the steak for 4 to 6 hours, stirring the marinade once or twice.

Make the sauce: Place the peppers and garlic in a food processor and pulse until finely chopped. Add the cilantro, parsley, mint, lime juice, cumin and salt and process to blend. With the machine running, add the oil and continue to process until the sauce has a thick salsa consistency. If it's too thick, add additional oil to achieve the desired consistency.

Remove the steak from the refrigerator 30 minutes before grilling. Thread the meat on pre-soaked bamboo skewers and discard the marinade.

Prepare the grill for direct cooking over high heat. Grill the skewers over direct heat until charred and cooked to your desired doneness, 5 to 8 minutes for medium-rare, depending on the thickness of the meat. Serve with the sauce.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS