Weekends are made for grilling, and this weekend was no different. California halibut is in season, and while halibut's firm flesh is ideal for roasting thick filets on the grill, I prefer to cut the fish into chunks, quickly marinate them and thread them on skewers. By doing this, more of the fish flesh is exposed to the flavors of the marinade, and there are more edges and corners exposed to the flames of the grill to crisp and char (which are the best bits). I like to thread the fish with vegetables, such as colorful bell peppers and onion. The vegetables add flavor to the fish and bright color and freshness to the skewers -- plus they are a great way to stretch pricey fish to feed a crowd.

The key to these skewers is the marinade, which has an unlikely ingredient: coarsely grated yellow onion. The onion pulp and juices add natural sweetness and bite to the marinade and nicely balance its salt and acid. Any thick, firm flesh fish, such as halibut, tuna or swordfish, can handle a longer marinating time, upward of 2 hours, but 30 minutes to 1 hour is sufficient to infuse flavor.

When assembling skewers, make sure all the ingredients are cut in uniform size, 1 to 1 1/4 inches, including any vegetables that may be threaded along with the fish, to ensure even cooking. Bamboo skewers should be soaked in warm water for at least 30 minutes before assembling. This will help to prevent them from burning while grilling.

Grilled Halibut and Vegetable Skewers

Active time: 20 minutes

Total time: 1 hour for marinating plus 20 minutes

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Ingredients for marinade:

1/4 cup coarsely grated yellow onion with juices, about 1/2 small onion

1/4 cup soy sauce or tamari

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 1/2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Ingredients for skewers:

2 pounds halibut, cut in 1-inch chunks

2 red, yellow and/or green bell peppers, seeded, cut in 1-inch chunks

1 large red onion, cut in 1-inch chunks

Parsley sprigs for garnish (optional)

Lemon wedges for serving

Whisk the marinade ingredients in a large bowl. Add the halibut chunks and gently turn to coat. Cover and refrigerate 1 hour.

While the halibut is marinating, soak 8 (8-inch) bamboo skewers in warm water for at least 30 minutes.

Prepare the grill for direct cooking over medium-high heat. Thread the fish on the skewers, beginning and ending with the halibut and alternating with onions and peppers. Lightly brush the vegetables with some of the marinade.

Grill the skewers over direct medium heat, until the fish is charred in places and just cooked through, about 8 minutes, turning as needed. Arrange the skewers on a serving platter, garnish with parsley sprigs and serve warm with lemon wedges.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Squash blossoms might make this pizza sound pretty fancy, but it really isn't. Delicate squash blossoms are everywhere at the farmers market at this time of year. I've been eyeing them and contemplating ways to easily incorporate the floppy, sunny flowers into a meal. I've eaten blossoms fried and stuffed, but to be honest, I find them time-consuming to prepare and often oily and rich. So I decided to simply layer them, with no other preparation, on a white pizza -- a pizza with no red sauce -- and see what happened. The results were resoundingly good and a unanimous hit at the dinner table. The flowers shriveled and crisped while cooking, which concentrated their subtle and nutty flavor. This was nicely rounded out by sweet Jimmy Nardello peppers, onions and a kick of heat from crushed red chili flakes. These fragile squash blossoms may be delicate, but it's clear that they are no shrinking wallflower.

For this recipe, you can make your own dough or purchase a good quality fresh dough from your supermarket, which is a simple shortcut for an easy meal. This recipe stretches 1 pound of fresh dough into a large rectangle, but you can also shape it into two smaller pizzas.

Squash Blossom Pizza With Sweet Peppers, Onions and Pecorino

Active time: 15 minutes

Total time: 30 minutes

Yield: Makes 1 (10-by-15-inch) pizza

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 garlic clove, minced

Salt for taste

1 pound homemade or prepared fresh pizza dough

1 cup finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese

1 small yellow onion, thinly sliced (about 1/2 cup)

1/2 cup thinly sliced sweet red peppers, such as Jimmy Nardello peppers

8 squash blossoms, quartered lengthwise

1 (8-ounce) fresh mozzarella ball, patted dry and thinly sliced

1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano

1/4 teaspoon crushed red chili flakes

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the grill for indirect cooking over high heat (about 500 degrees for a gas grill) and preheat a pizza stone for at least 15 minutes. (Or preheat the oven to 500 degrees. Place a pizza stone on the lowest oven rack and preheat for at least 15 minutes.)

Whisk the oil, garlic and a pinch of salt in a small bowl.

Stretch the dough out as thinly as possible and lay on large pizza peel (or rimless baking sheet lined with parchment). Lightly brush with the oil. Sprinkle half of the cheese over the pizza. Top with the onions and peppers. Arrange the squash blossoms over the vegetables, and then place the mozzarella around the squash. Sprinkle the oregano, chili flakes and pepper over the pizza and lightly season with salt to taste. Top with the remaining cheese.

Slide the pizza onto the pizza stone. Close the grill lid and grill until the pizza is golden brown, about 15 minutes. (If baking in the oven, slide the pizza onto the pizza stone and bake until golden brown, about 15 minutes.) Remove and brush the crust with some of the oil. Drizzle any remaining oil over the pizza. Cut into serving pieces and serve immediately.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

I am the queen of rustic desserts, which is a nice way to label desserts that are rather imperfect. The good news is that there is plenty of room for rustic and, yes, imperfect desserts in anyone's repertoire. In fact, most cuisines tout their own homey version of bubbling, squidgy desserts cobbled together with crumpled and crinkled borders oozing juices like a ruptured pipe. They're supposed to do that, and more important, they taste really good.

When one lacks a certain gene for patience and finesse, these desserts are just right. They relieve all pressure to be exacting, methodical and, well, perfect. Once that pressure is removed, there is plenty of space to simply relax, bake and eat. Just be sure to pass the napkins.

Plum Galette

Active time: 30 minutes

Total time: 1 hour and 15 minutes, plus 1 hour chilling time

Yield: 6 servings

Pastry:

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

3 tablespoons sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, chilled, cut in 1/2-inch cubes

2 to 3 tablespoons ice cold water

Filling:

6 large plums, halved, pitted and sliced; or 12 small plums, halved, pitted

6 tablespoons sugar, divided

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon cardamom

Pinch of salt

Prepare the pastry: Combine the flour, sugar and salt in a large bowl. Add the butter and work it into flour with your fingertips until the dough resembles coarse meal. Add enough water to bind the dough. Form the dough into a ball and flatten into a disk, then wrap with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

Prepare the galette: Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Toss the plums in a large bowl with 4 tablespoons sugar, the flour, lemon zest, cinnamon, cardamom and salt.

Roll out the dough on parchment paper into a 12-inch circle. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon sugar over the dough, leaving a 2-inch border. Mound the plums over the sugar. Sprinkle the plums with remaining 1 tablespoon sugar. Fold the border of the dough up and around the plums. (The center of the galette will be exposed.)

Slide the parchment onto a baking sheet and transfer to the middle rack of the oven. Bake until the fruit is bubbling and the crust is golden brown, about 45 minutes. Remove and cool the galette before serving. Serve warm or at room temperature with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS