If you're like me and can't resist buying hothouse grape tomatoes in the middle of the winter -- even when we know better -- this recipe will address any buyer's remorse. It's not the fault of the tomatoes, of course. They do look irresistible, but looks can be deceiving with these plump and oh-so-red tomatoes, which often disappoint in the flavor department when they are out of season.

Not to worry -- this recipe allows for a little off-season tomato indulgence with no regrets. Thanks to slow roasting, they will deflate from their impossible pertness to a more relaxed version of themselves, and any hibernating juices and natural sugars will be released. Along with a little simple seasoning to give them some oomph, you will also have a sunny and versatile condiment to beat the winter blues.

Add roasted tomatoes to sauces and salads, use as a topping on pizza and crostini, or toss with pasta. In this recipe, I take advantage of the sludgy sheen of olive oil and tomato juice left behind in the pan after roasting. To sop up the flavorful oil, I sprinkle a layer of breadcrumbs over the pan to absorb the juices and toast the crumbs in the oven until golden. They are a delicious extra touch to this light and fresh pasta dish.

Gemelli With Roasted Tomatoes, Arugula and Olive Oil Breadcrumbs

Active time: 45 minutes

Total time: 45 minutes

Yield: 4 servings

1 pound grape tomatoes

3 garlic whole cloves, unpeeled

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste

4 thyme sprigs

1/2 cup panko breadcrumbs

2 tablespoons plus 1/3 cup finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese

1 pound gemelli or fusilli

2 large handfuls arugula, about 3 cups

Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Scatter the tomatoes and garlic cloves on a rimmed baking sheet. Add the oil, salt and black pepper and stir to coat. Scatter the thyme sprigs over the tomatoes and transfer to the oven. Roast until the tomatoes are softened and begin to release their juices, about 25 minutes, stirring once or twice. Remove from the oven and discard the thyme sprigs. When cool enough to handle, peel the skin away from the garlic and finely chop the cloves. Transfer the tomatoes and garlic to a large serving bowl.

Reduce the oven heat to 350 degrees. Sprinkle the breadcrumbs on the same baking sheet and stir in the residual olive oil to coat. Return the baking sheet to the oven and cook until the breadcrumbs are golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. (They will brown quickly, so watch them carefully.) Remove and immediately transfer the breadcrumbs to a small bowl to stop them from cooking. Cool for 5 minutes and then stir in the 2 tablespoons cheese.

Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a rolling boil. Add the pasta and cook until al dente. Scoop out 1/2 cup cooking water and then drain the pasta.

Add the pasta, arugula, half the breadcrumbs, and the 1/3 cup cheese to the tomatoes and toss to combine. If the pasta is a little dry, add some of the reserved water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until moistened to your preference. Divide the pasta between serving plates. Garnish with the remaining breadcrumbs and freshly ground black pepper; serve immediately.

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Are you a fan of pho? If you've never had it, pho is a Vietnamese noodle soup. It consists of a mountain of slurp-worthy rice noodles mingling in an umami-rich soup with meat, such as chicken or beef, or tofu and vegetables. The bonus is the garnishes -- a garden basket of leafy herbs, chiles and sprouts to scatter over the top, with squirts of lime, hot sauce and hoisin for good measure.

Pho is intoxicatingly aromatic, and a perfect remedy to fight a cold or simply satisfy a craving for Asian spice and heat. Once you taste it, you'll be hooked.

The key to an authentic pho lies in its broth, an involved affair best left to the weekend, when you have time to fill your home with the slow-cooking aromas of simmering chicken or beef, while the stock reduces to a flavorful, soul-satisfying intensity.

The challenge, though (as cravings go), is that sometimes you just want pho NOW, when it's not the weekend, when you've just arrived home, when it's an hour before dinner, only leftovers are in the fridge and the nearest Vietnamese takeout is in the next county.

Here is a solution: It's an inauthentic version I call fast pho -- or, better yet, faux pho. Instead of making the stock from scratch, I use a good-quality store-bought stock, embellish it with aromatics, and add leftover cooked chicken or rotisserie chicken from the market. It's done in an hour and is a perfect quick fix for a crave-satiating weeknight dinner.

Easy Pho -- Vietnamese Chicken Rice Noodle Soup

Note: This recipe is especially easy to make when you have leftover chicken in the fridge; otherwise, you can pick up a rotisserie chicken from the store or quickly poach a couple of chicken breasts.

Active time: 20 minutes

Total time: 50 minutes

Yield: 4 servings

1 tablespoon canola oil

1 large yellow onion, coarsely chopped

1 (2-inch) knob of fresh ginger, coarsely chopped

6 cloves

2 star anise

1 (2-inch) stick cinnamon

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns

6 cups chicken stock

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon salt

8 ounces vermicelli rice noodles

1 pound cooked chicken meat, shredded

4 scallions, white and green parts thinly sliced

1/4 cup fresh cilantro leaves

Garnishes:

Sliced red or green jalapeno chiles

Mung bean sprouts

Fresh mint or Thai basil sprigs

Lime wedges

Sriracha or Hoisin sauce

Heat the oil in a Dutch oven or deep skillet over medium. Add the onions and ginger; saute until fragrant and the onions begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the cloves, star anise, cinnamon stick, coriander seeds and peppercorns; saute until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the stock, fish sauce, sugar and salt, and bring to a boil. Cover and reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 30 minutes.

While the soup is simmering, cook and drain the noodles according to the package directions.

Strain the soup through a fine mesh strainer into a clean pot. Add the chicken to the soup and simmer over medium-low until heated through, 3 to 5 minutes. Taste for seasoning and add more fish sauce, sugar or salt if needed.

Divide the noodles between large serving bowls. Sprinkle an even amount of scallions and cilantro over the noodles. Ladle the soup into the bowls. Serve with the garnishes.

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'Tis the season for lemons. Late winter offers up bushels of citrus, which transform into light and lovely desserts like these lemon bars. Whether you are knee-deep in snow or lucky enough to live where lemons grow on trees, these lemon bars will bring a ray of sunshine to your plate.

The key to a good lemon bar, in my book, is the filling. It must be intensely lemony, packing a wallop of tartness with just enough sugar, but not so sweet that it's cloying. Picture a zingy, sweet and tart filling rippled with lemon zest, anchored to a buttery shortbread crust. The final touch is a smidge of sea salt, which keeps the sweetness in check and allows the puckery lemon to shine through. These bars are thoroughly addictive and guaranteed to brighten your day. One bar will never be enough.

Lemon Bars With Sea Salt

Active time: 15 minutes

Total time: 1 hour

Yield: makes 32 (2-inch) square bars

Shortbread:

2 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 cup confectioners' sugar

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1 cup unsalted butter, slightly softened but still cool, cut into cubes

Filling:

4 large eggs

1 1/4 cups sugar

2/3 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

1/4 cup all-purpose flour, sifted

1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

Garnish:

Confectioners' sugar

Sea salt flakes, such as Maldon (or plain sea salt)

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 9-by-13-inch baking pan, then line the pan with parchment and butter the parchment.

Combine the shortbread ingredients in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Mix until the dough resembles coarse lumps and just begins to come together. Dump the dough into the prepared pan and, with your fingers, evenly press the dough to cover the bottom of the pan.

Bake the crust until it just begins to turn golden, about 20 minutes. Remove from oven; do not turn off the oven.

Whisk the filling ingredients together in a large bowl until blended, then evenly pour over the crust. Return the pan to the oven and bake until the filling is set but not coloring, about 25 minutes. Remove and cool completely on a rack.

Cut into bars. Dust with confectioners' sugar and lightly sprinkle with sea salt flakes before serving.

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