After I finished cooking school in Paris, I lived in Switzerland for a number of years. During this time, I acquired another important form of education, which is the Swiss view of chocolate as sustenance. In Switzerland, chocolate is considered a staple and a panacea for all that is fraught in the world. It's found in every lunch box, ski-pack and kitchen pantry. It's not considered a dessert, but its own food group. Swiss chocolate transcends all nutritional categories, and is arguably a national symbol, ranking equally with banks, cows and the Matterhorn. In a manner of classic Swiss efficiency, chocolate is the multitasking equivalent of a power bar, a balanced diet, a healthy psyche and an aspirin.

I lived near Geneva, not far from France, and crossed the border regularly to shop in French supermarkets. When I returned, the Swiss border guards would regularly stop me and question my purchases, since there were strict restrictions on quantities of wine, cheese, and meat that could be acquired abroad.

One day, when I was still new to the country, I returned with some French chocolate. When I informed the Swiss guards that I had chocolate in my shopping bags, they gaped at me in disbelief. Never mind the visible case of Burgundy wine, the kilos of runny French cheese or the side of beef strapped into my backseat -- they were appalled that I had the gall and obvious lack of taste to purchase French chocolate instead of Swiss. In their minds, I had committed an act of treachery and diminished my already lowly foreign status. The next time I crossed the border, I would have to wear a paper bag over my head.

I learned my lesson: Integrating meant more than learning the local language and paying taxes. It also meant buying Swiss chocolate. Now, many years and several countries later, I continue to buy Swiss chocolate, or what I call the Swiss remedy for everything. So, when it's time to bake treats for the holidays, or when I am simply in need of a little pick-me-up or mood booster, I turn to a bar of Swiss chocolate for an uplifting and restorative pleasure.

Swiss Brownie Bites

Active Time: 30 minutes

Total Time: 1 hour, plus 6 to 24 hours refrigerating time

Yield: makes 50 to 60 small squares

3/4 cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing the pan

12 ounces high-quality dark (65 to 70 percent) chocolate (preferably Swiss), coarsely chopped

3 large eggs

1 1/2 cups sugar

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter an 8-inch square baking pan; line the bottom with parchment and butter the parchment.

Whisk the flour, baking powder and salt in a medium bowl.

Melt the butter and chocolate in a double boiler or heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water, stirring occasionally, until smooth. Remove from heat.

Whisk the eggs and sugar in a medium bowl until light and fluffy; stir in the vanilla. Add the chocolate and stir to blend. Add the flour mixture; stir until just combined, without over-mixing. Pour the batter into the prepared baking pan; transfer to the oven and bake until the top is set and the sides begin to pull away from the pan, about 25 minutes. (The brownies will be fudgy, and a wooden toothpick may not come out clean at this point.)

Cool the brownies completely on a rack. Cover with foil and refrigerate for at least 6 hours, or preferably overnight. Remove the brownie block from the pan and cut into 1-inch squares. Store the brownies in the refrigerator for up to 1 week or freeze for up to 3 months.

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Finally, the weather has turned cooler. I have to admit that, as a New England native, I miss the distinct change of seasons in California -- especially in the fall. In my opinion, at this time of year, we're supposed to be pulling on our fleece and socks, not slipping into sandals and T-shirts. So, while it may still be a tad too early for wool in California, I can at least make this cocktail -- fragrant with apple and cinnamon and boosted with tequila and Cointreau -- and close my eyes and pretend that it's a crisp and blustery autumn day. And you should, too, especially if you are lucky enough to be enjoying a nippy October, because this drink is guaranteed to take the edge off any chill.

This recipe takes inspiration from a margarita and warms it up with the best of fall's ingredients -- cranberries and apple cider. Part cocktail, part toddy and all good, it's a great recipe to have on hand for entertaining once the holiday season gets rolling, or for simply curling up and sipping in front of a fire.

Cranberry Tequila Toddy

Active Time: 10 minutes

Total Time: 1 hour and 10 minutes

Yield: makes about 6 cups; serves 6 to 8

1/4 cup dried cranberries

1/4 cup orange liqueur, such as Cointreau

4 cups apple cider

1 cup cranberry juice cocktail

1/4 cup freshly squeezed orange juice

1/2 cup gold tequila

Orange slices, cinnamon sticks and lime wedges for garnish

Combine the cranberries and orange liqueur in a small bowl. Let stand at room temperature for at least 1 hour.

Heat the cider, cranberry juice and orange juice in a large saucepan until it nearly reaches a boil. Stir in the tequila, cranberries and orange liqueur and immediately remove from heat. Cover the pot and let stand 1 to 2 minutes to infuse the liquid.

Ladle into mugs and garnish with an orange slice and a cinnamon stick for stirring. Serve with a lime wedge for squeezing.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Who doesn't like a baked cheesy pasta dish? While macaroni and cheese is the standout in this category -- that timeless childhood favorite coated in bechamel, rippling with cheese and crowned with crispy breadcrumbs -- I will suggest that you can have your baked pasta and cheese, and riff a little, too. What you get out of the deal is variety, an excuse to use up any lingering vegetables in your fridge, and an opportunity to add some extra goodies -- like sausage, if you're so inclined. Simply mound them into a baking dish, along with nearly al dente pasta and gads of cheese, then bake until melty and golden. All your mac 'n' cheese-loving family members, I dare say, will never dream of objecting.

I make dishes like this when I am looking for a quick solution for an easy dinner. It can be on the table in about 30 minutes, and it's likely to be devoured in half that time. This version is lighter than mac 'n cheese and loaded with veggies. To moisten the pasta (there's no bechamel sauce, after all), I use some of the starchy cooking water to bind the ingredients and add fresh mozzarella for creaminess. The key to precooking the pasta is to cook until just short of al dente. The pasta will continue to cook when the gratin is finished in the oven.

Baked Pasta With Roasted Tomatoes, Sausage and Kale

Active Time: 30 minutes

Total Time: 30 minutes

Yield: 4 servings

Salt

12 ounces pasta, such as gemelli or farfalle

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

8 ounces chorizo or hot Italian sausage, cut into 1/2-inch slices

1 cup halved grape tomatoes

1 garlic clove, minced

1/2 teaspoon red chili flakes

1/2 bunch lacinato kale leaves, ribs discarded, torn into bite-size pieces

1 (8-ounce) fresh mozzarella, coarsely chopped

1 1/2 cups finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese (or parmesan), divided

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Add the pasta and cook until 1 to 2 minutes short of al dente. Scoop out 1/2 cup water and reserve, then drain the pasta.

While the pasta is cooking, heat the oil in a large, deep ovenproof skillet over medium-high. Add the sausage and brown on both sides, about 5 minutes. Transfer the sausage to a plate lined with a paper towel and pour off all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the skillet.

Add the tomatoes to the skillet and saute until they release their juices and soften, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and chili flakes and saute until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the kale and saute until the leaves soften, 2 to 3 minutes.

Add the pasta and 1/4 cup of the reserved water to the skillet and toss or stir to combine. If the pasta seems too dry, add the remaining water a splash at a time until the pasta is moist, but not wet. Stir in the mozzarella and 1 cup Pecorino. Sprinkle the 1/2 cup Pecorino over the top of the pasta and transfer the skillet to the oven. Bake until the top begins to color and the cheese melts, about 20 minutes. Serve warm.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS