Universal Press Syndicate

The best way to save your pet from an accidental poisoning is to know what items are poisonous and to keep them from your pet's reach.

What do you need to know? We touched base with Dr. Steven Hansen of the ASPCA's Animal Poison Control Center -- which handled more than 135,000 pet-poisoning cases in 2007 alone -- to find out what you need to know.

Some poisonings are a result of something an animal gets into, like a household product. But a surprising number of cases come from something intentionally given to an animal by the owner who's trying to help. The classic example of the latter is when an elderly cat is given an extra-strength acetaminophen for arthritis. The owner is trying to help, but unfortunately even one capsule of this common human medicine can kill a cat.

Dogs can figure out their way into trouble that their owners never envisioned. This includes opening cabinets to get cleaning products and counter-surfing to reach food items and pill vials. You need to realize that pets are basically like toddlers who can open any child-proof container, and you should take similar precautions:

-- Keep products such as medications, harmful foods and cleaning products in a secure cabinet above countertop height.

-- Use a kitchen garbage can with a lid.

-- Always read labels, especially on flea and tick products, and on lawn and garden products. Store out of reach in a high cupboard, not under the sink.

-- Be familiar with the plants in and around your home, and have only nontoxic plants.

-- Never give any medication or supplement to your pet unless recommended or approved by your veterinarian.

Many toxic substances aren't well-known to dog owners. For example, don't let your dog have significant amounts of raisins or grapes, macadamia nuts, moldy cheese, chocolate, onions, garlic or xylitol-sweetened gum and other candies or baked items.

Once the preventive measures are in place, you need to know the signs of poisoning. Many (but not all) substances first cause stomach upset, including vomiting and diarrhea. It's not fun, but vomit must be examined for evidence of chewed packaging, plant, food, pill or other important clues. Many poisonings progress to weakness and depression or nervous stimulation, including tremors and seizures. Pets may stop eating and drinking, or may drink excessive amounts, which could suggest liver or kidney involvement. Rapid or slow breathing, with changes in tongue and gum color -- from pink to white, blue or brown -- is important.

If you suspect poisoning, stay calm. Panicking will not help your pet and may waste precious time. If your pet is not showing any serious signs of illness described above, contact your regular veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (1-888-426-4435) to determine if your pet needs to be seen, or if treatment can be given at home.

If your pet is having difficulty breathing, is having seizures, is bleeding or is unconscious, go to your regular veterinarian or emergency clinic immediately. Take any evidence including chewed containers and labels and even vomit. This information is key to helping your veterinarian save your pet.

Be sure you always have the numbers of your pet's regular veterinarian, your local veterinary emergency clinic and the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center. It could save your pet's life.

SIDEBAR

Do you know the top toxins?

The ASPCA's Animal Poison Control Center (APCC) lists the top reasons pet owners called it in 2007, in order of the number of cases handled. Some represent serious concerns, while others result from common, but not deadly, encounters:

1. Drugs meant for humans, both prescription and over-the-counter.

2. Pesticides, including poisons meant to kill bugs, rodents and weeds.

3. Foods, including chocolate (chocolate accounted for about half of all food cases).

4. Biological hazards, primarily toxic plants.

5. Veterinary drugs.

6. Cleaning products.

7. Chemical hazards, such as acids, bases, alcohols and gases.

8. Metals, such as lead, zinc and mercury.

9. Cosmetics and personal-care items, such as hair dye, hair relaxant or perms, oral care or skin-care products.

10. General household hazards, such as batteries for electronics, matches, silica gel, ice melters, matches and air fresheners.

Not-so-honorable mention goes to home-improvement and hobby supplies, such as paint and adhesives.

Q&A

Redirecting nips of a playful pup

Q: We got a Christmas puppy, a yellow Labrador retriever. Our friends bred their Lab once, and we wanted a puppy, so this seemed perfect. Our puppy's mother is fantastic with kids, and we wanted a dog just like that.

The problem is that our puppy is kinda bratty. We're going to take her to training classes now that the weather is better, and we know we have work to do. We'll do it. We love our puppy, and we're working through it together.

The one thing we really need help with right away, though, is her nipping. She will not stop mouthing everything, and the kids are now afraid of being chewed on by her. She's not mean, just mouthy. How can we get her to stop this? Or will she just outgrow it? -- W.P., via e-mail

A: If you watch a litter of puppies play with each other, you might be surprised at how rough they can be. As puppies grow older, they learn from their littermates and their mother how to restrain those playful bites.

These lessons are important in the development of a well-mannered pet, which is why experts say puppies should stay with their littermates until at least the age of 7 weeks.

If you end up with a pup who missed the crucial lessons taught by her siblings, or if your puppy is naturally nippy (many retrievers and retriever mixes, for example, are very "mouthy" as puppies), all is not lost.

Teach your puppy to keep her teeth to herself by attacking the problem from a couple of different directions. The first would be to redirect the behavior. Clap your hands to startle the pup into stopping the nipping, and then give your puppy a toy to chew on instead. Don't forget to praise her for chewing on something that's not a family member.

Even as you're teaching the puppy what's OK to mouth, teach her how to leave family members unchewed by making the nipping unrewarding. Every time the puppy nips, dramatically cry "ouch" and immediately stop the play session. Fold your arms, turn away and ignore the puppy completely.

The message to get across: Play stops when nipping starts. If you're persistent and consistent, your puppy will get the message. It will also help if you make sure she's getting plenty of exercise, because sometimes dogs who don't get enough physical activity get too excited when they're finally offered the chance to play.

If the behavior doesn't show any sign of easing, or if the biting seems more aggressive than playful, don't delay in asking your veterinarian for a referral to a behaviorist or trainer. -- Gina Spadafori

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and "dog cars," and a weekly drawing for pet-care prizes. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or visiting PetConnection.com.

PET BUZZ

Pets another reason to wash your hands

-- People struggling to get rid of recurrent staph infections might want to consider an overlooked source: the family pet. Dr. Neil Fishman of the Infectious Diseases Society of America told The Associated Press that while staph is rare and is more of a problem in people with weak immune systems, everyone should wash up after handling pets.

-- A gene that determines a dog's coat color may help scientists learn why people are thin or fat, or why they cope differently with stress. An article in Veterinary Economics mentioned that Stanford University researchers now say a gene that produces yellow and black fur in dogs also makes the "beta defensin" protein. Dogs and people have similar beta defensin-producing genes, and this protein determines canine-stress adaptation and weight regulation. If beta defensin proteins work similarly in people, new drugs and treatments for weight and stress management could result.

-- California law now lets victims of domestic violence name their pets in restraining orders against their abusers. The bill's sponsor said up to 40 percent of domestic violence victims don't leave their abusers because they worry about their pets.

-- If you fear your home has turned into the newest location of Bedbugs & Beyond, you might want to call on specially trained dogs who track down tiny bedbugs and their eggs, helping exterminators target spraying. The bedbug-sniffing dogs start around $200 per hour. -- Dr. Marty Becker

THE SCOOP

Teach your cat to scratch appropriately

Scratching is natural, normal and satisfying behavior for a cat that is best accommodated by training your pet to use a scratching post or cat tree.

The post or tree must be stable enough for your cat to climb and pull on, and should be covered with material your cat can dig her claws into, such as sisal.

Because clawing is also a territory marker, move the cat tree into a prominent place, such as near that clawed corner of the couch. Praise your cat for using the post instead. Move the post slowly -- a few inches a day -- to a place more to your taste after your cat is using it reliably.

Encourage your cat to use the scratching post by teasing her with a cat toy and praising her for digging in her claws. If your cat enjoys catnip, rub some on the post to encourage her to spend more time there, and give her treats for being on the cat tree as well.

Make the areas you don't want your pet to touch less appealing during the retraining process by covering them with foil, plastic sheeting or plastic carpet runners with the pointy side out. Use double-sided tape generously as well -- cats hate the feel of sticky stuff under their paws.

If you catch your cat clawing, squirt her with a spray bottle. Try to stay out of sight whenever you do so and don't lose your temper. Remember: The idea is to get the cat to believe that the furniture itself is doing the disciplining.

Yes, your house is going to look pretty ugly for a while, with cat deterrents all over the furniture and a cat tree in the middle of the room. You must live with it until your cat's new pattern of clawing where acceptable is established. -- Gina Spadafori

PETS BY THE NUMBERS

Fewer vet visits for cats

Cats may be the top pet in the United States and Canada, but they're not tops when it come to veterinary care:

Number of dogs: 72.1 million

Number of cats: 81.7 million

Annual average of vet visits per year:

Cats: 1.7

Dogs: 2.6

Source: American Veterinary Medical Association

PET TIP

Freezer veggies great for birds

Avian veterinarians say parrots do well on a diet of pellets, combined with a daily helping of fresh vegetables and fruits. There's an easy way to make providing vegetables easier for the cooking-impaired: Use frozen mixed vegetables.

Bags of vegetable mixes with corn, peas, beans and carrots are easy to find and easy to store. And it takes only a short spell in the microwave to bring them up to room temperature. (Put your finger in the bowl to make sure there are no "hot spots.")

Fresh fruits and veggies are always ideal for parrots, along with a good mix of other healthy "people foods" -- pasta, cereals, bread and more. But in a pinch, reach into the freezer. Little shopping, no chopping and no rotting veggies in the refrigerator -- what could be better? -- Gina Spadafori

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Universal Press Syndicate

It may seem odd, but there's a parallel between abductions and dog attacks.

Most children who are victimized aren't randomly selected; they're attacked by a person or dog known to them. Just as an abductor is more likely to be someone known to the child -- an estranged parent, say -- a dog involved in a serious attack is more likely to be an animal the child knows, kept by the family, a friend or a relative.

Most of the risk can be minimized by making sure the family dog is just that: a member of the family, an indoor dog given ample opportunities for training and socializing. While this won't remove all the risk (see the accompanying story for signs of trouble), a dog who feels comfortable and secure can be what you hope for most -- your child's best friend.

If you've taken steps to make your family dog as safe as possible, the next step in bite prevention is to teach your child what to do if he or she encounters a potentially hostile dog while out and about. This is especially important because our instincts, when faced with a threatening loose dog, could not be more deadly. We want to scream and run, which may trigger predatory behavior in a dog.

The Humane Society of the United States suggests teaching your children how to behave around strange dogs and how to react if attacked. With the start of school at hand, and with many children walking on streets that may have loose dogs, be sure your children know the following:

-- Never approach a loose dog, even if he seems friendly. Dogs confined in yards -- especially those on chains -- should also be avoided. If the dog is with its owner, children should always ask permission before petting him and then begin by offering the back of the hand for a sniff. Pat him on the neck or chest. The dog may interpret a pat from above as a dominant gesture. Teach your children to avoid fast or jerky movements.

-- "Be a tree" when a dog approaches, standing straight with feet together, fists under the neck and elbows into the chest. Teach your children to make no eye contact: Some dogs view this as a challenge. Running is a normal response to danger, but it's the worst possible response to a dog because it triggers the animal's instinct to chase and bite. Many dogs just sniff and leave. Teach your children to stay still until the animal walks away, and then back away slowly out of the area.

-- "Feed" the dog a jacket or backpack if attacked, or use a bike to block the dog. These strategies may keep an attacking dog's teeth from connecting with flesh.

-- Act like a log if knocked down -- face down, legs together, curled into a ball, with fists covering the back of the neck and forearms over the ears. This position protects vital areas and can keep an attack from turning fatal.

Role-play these lessons with your child until they are ingrained. Dealing with the dangers in your own yard and teaching your children how to cope may spare your child a bite -- and even save a life.

SIDEBAR

Safety starts at home

Is your dog a time bomb? Answer these questions and be brutally honest:

-- Has your dog ever "stared you down"? If your dog gives you a hard, fixed stare, you need to recognize it for the challenge it is.

-- Does your dog adopt a dominant posture with you or other people? A dog who's trying to be boss will be up on his toes, with his legs stiff, ears forward and hackles raised. His tail will be held up or out, and may even be wagging a little. Don't confuse the latter for friendliness. There's big difference between the wide, relaxed wag of a friendly dog and the stiff, tight one of an aggressive animal.

-- Do you avoid doing certain things around your dog because they elicit growling or a show of teeth? Some people live their lives in fear of their dog, avoiding the animal when he's eating, sleeping, playing with a toy ... the list can be endless.

-- Do you consider your dog safe, except around a particular group of people, such as children? When he growls at the veterinarian, do you tell yourself the behavior is reasonable because the animal thinks the doctor is "mean"?

-- Has your dog ever bitten anyone? Whatever the reason, no matter the excuse, a dog who has bitten once is more likely to bite again than the dog who has never bitten at all.

A "yes" to any of these questions means you do have a problem, and you need to find help. Talk to your veterinarian about a referral to a trainer or behaviorist with experience in canine aggression.

While some dogs with aggression problems cannot be reformed, others can, with a combination of medication and retraining, and a big dose of dog-savvy on the part of the owner.

If your dog cannot be trusted, even after professional help, don't try to pass the problem along to someone else just because it's too hard to do what needs to be done. Take responsibility and euthanize your dog. You may be sparing a child a lifetime of fear and disfigurement, or you may even be saving someone's life.

READERS WRITE

Give up our pit? We'd move first

Thank you for speaking out against banning pit bulls. As you noted, the blame for most dog attacks can be attached to ignorant, negligent and sometimes criminal dog owners and breeders. I also believe that pit bull bans are instigated by sensationalistic reporting and enacted by self-serving, mean-spirited politicians.

Five years ago, we adopted a 1-year-old pit bull from the shelter, and she's been with us ever since. She loves every person she meets, and she's never as much as curled her lip at anyone. If our city ever enacted an ordinance like Denver's, we'd move rather than give her up. -- D.D., via e-mail

Giving up our dog

I wake each morning knowing that my time with my beloved Cyrus is coming to an end. I have been fighting since February 2005 because landlords do not want us because we have a "pit bull." Now we have to take a place for ourselves that does not allow our dog. It breaks my heart knowing he will no longer be with me.

He has always been there for me, and now I have to desert him. It makes me angry and sad. Cyrus is a loving member of our family. If our financial status were better, we could buy a place so we could keep him. Please keep spreading the word, and maybe it will save others the heartache of leaving a friend. -- K.O., via e-mail

In support of bans

The majority of serious dog attacks on humans are done by pit bulls. A few are done by other breeds, but they are seldom the unprovoked attacks that can maim and kill like pit bulls can. My brother is in law enforcement. He can show records of dog attacks going back many years. Most are by pit bulls.

To allow pit bulls within the city limits is absurd. These animals do the most damage the most often. Get rid of the pit bulls and save a life. Many gang types keep a dog as a weapon. Dog of choice: pit bull. Ban pit bulls. -- C.S., via e-mail

Gina responds: After my column against banning pit bulls ran, I was swamped with responses. Most were in agreement, but then, most (but not all) of those who defended pit bulls had them or liked the breed.

Other readers insisted that pit bulls -- a generic term for a handful of breeds, in fact -- were genetically different from other dogs and so should be exterminated down to the last loving pet.

Isn't it odd that the pit bull has been around for decades with no more problems than any other large breed until the criminal element got ahold of it? Does anyone remember when the Doberman was the "killer breed"? What make anyone think that people who want a dangerous dog wouldn't shift to another kind of dog once pit bulls are gone?

Now, to be sure, there are problems with pit bulls, and I'm not denying it. Pit bulls are more likely to be dog-aggressive, thanks to their development as a fighting breed. That's why the group Bay Area Doglovers Responsible About Pitbulls, aka BAD RAP (www.badrap.org), and others strongly advise against off-leash play with other dogs for pit bulls, and argue they do not belong in dog parks.

As far as aggression against humans, there's no doubt every attack is one attack too many. But my point is that strong and sensible legislation against all dangerous dogs -- not just pit bulls -- will provide municipalities with tools for dealing with menacing dogs no matter the breed.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BUY

Many dogs love little pools

There's no doubt that many manufacturers realize how much crossover there is between the children's market and the pets' market. I wouldn't be at all surprised to find out that more "baby" gates are sold to dog owners than to parents. And other products, from playpens to toddler toys, do double duty, selling well in both markets.

As summer approaches, you might want to pick up one of these double-duty items for your pet's enjoyment once the weather turns hot. That item? The kiddie pool.

For dogs who love water, a wallow in the pool is a great way to cool down after summer activity. Even dogs who wouldn't dream of getting completely drenched might be convinced of the pleasures of getting their tummies wet.

I keep two pools full for the dogs, draining and hosing them clean every other day before refilling them. While I'm sure the retrievers would rather have a built-in pool, the kiddie pools seem to keep them happy and cool enough all summer long.

PET Rx

Pets can get sunburned, too

While a pet's fur coat provides protection from the sun's harmful rays, some pets are still at risk for sunburn. Among them: hairless breeds like the Chinese crested, animals with thin, light-color coats, and pets whose coats have thinned with age. Animals who are recovering from surgery are also at risk on the areas that were shaved.

Prevention is always better than treatment. Keep high-risk pets out of direct sunlight. If your pet must be in the sun, apply sunblock. Recommended products include Johnson & Johnson's Waterbabies, Bullfrog waterproof and EltaBlock waterproof. The benefit of waterproof products is that they're also dog-saliva-proof.

You can also try putting a child's T-shirt on the animal to protect him from harmful rays. Pets with a small problem area, such as a light spot on a nose, may be a candidate for having the area permanently tattooed with dark ink.

If your pet gets sunburned, liberal amounts of an aloe vera preparation can be applied. Do not apply any other medication without first discussing it with your veterinarian.

Sun protection is important not just for sunburn -- the same kinds of dogs who are vulnerable to sunburn are often at risk for skin cancer, too.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

Training your cat can be fun for you both

Some people point to the dog's ability to learn obedience commands and tricks as proof that dogs are smarter than cats. Others point to the same thing as proof that cats are smarter than dogs -- cats don't have to work for a living.

Cats and dogs are different in how they relate to us. Dogs have an ingrained need to be part of a family structure and to have a job to do within that family. Dogs are that way in large part because wolves are that way -- survival depends on the family, or pack.

The cat came from a different place, descended from solitary hunters who didn't need teamwork to survive.

If you want to put a good spin on it as a cat lover, you could say that dogs need to be with us, while cats choose to.

Because of this distinction, you absolutely cannot get a cat to do something she doesn't want to. Something must be in it for her. When training a cat, that something is usually food.

For example, you can start teaching the "sit" command to a hungry cat using a table, a quiet room and some treats. Get your cat to stand up by touching her in front of her tail. Then hold the treat a little over her head, saying her name and the command "sit." Slowly move the treat between your cat's ears, but not high enough for her to pick her front paws off the ground and grab the tidbit. Instead, she'll sit. After she does, praise her and give her the treat. Work in short sessions and be patient. Your cat will eventually get the idea!

Build on your successes. From "sit" can come "sit up." Many cats also love active tricks, such as jumping through hoops.

"Clicker" training -- marking a correct behavior with a noise and following with a treat -- works great when training cats. Clicker-training guru Karen Pryor offers a collection of instructions, streaming video, books, and other tools and tips for clicker-training cats on her Web site at www.clickertraining.com/training/cats.

PETS ON THE WEB

Resources for the hard-shelled

Felice Rood is a dynamo, a one-woman army fighting for the good of turtles and tortoises everywhere. Felice's World of Turtles Web site (www.turtlebunker.com) lets more people in on the commonsense care tips and lively sense of humor she shares in person with members of the Sacramento Turtle and Tortoise Club.

Best bets: excerpts from the club's newsletters, especially Rood's stories of her pets. The care sheets for various species are lifesavers, and you can order either or both of Rood's turtle and tortoise care videos on the site. World of Turtles would be helped out a great deal, though, by providing links to other sites devoted to these charming beings, such as the extremely comprehensive site of the New York Turtle and Tortoise Society (www.nytts.org), the California Turtle and Tortoise Club (www.tortoise.org), or the reptile resources on Melissa Kaplan's Herp Care Collection (www.anapsid.org).

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Universal Press Syndicate

Dog runs or parks -- public, fenced areas set aside for off-leash play -- offer dogs the chance to meet others and burn off some energy.

But not all dogs are well-suited to the often rough play of a dog park. To get some tips on dog parks, we turned to Dr. Melissa Bain, a board-certified veterinary behaviorist at the University of California-Davis School of Veterinary Medicine.

Because of disease concerns, dog parks should be off-limits to puppies less than 6 months of age, and to dogs who are extremely old, chronically ill or otherwise immune-compromised. When in doubt, ask your veterinarian.

Not even a healthy dog can just be thrown into a dog park. Your pet should be friendly with other dogs and with people. If your dog acts out in fear or aggression with other dogs, new environments, new people or when in a confined area, then your dog is not ready for the dog park -- and may never be.

Many dogs don't mean to be aggressive, but they will often provoke fights or fearfulness from other dogs with overly aggressive and unrelenting play. These are likely dogs who were not properly socialized as puppies and never learned to read another dog's "leave me alone" cues. Hormones can also play a role, and that's why it's usually best for dog-park play to be among spayed and neutered animals.

Even if your dog is relaxed and comfortable in new situations and is good with other dogs, you must be sure your dog will come when called before you take him to a dog park so you can extricate him from a potentially unsafe situation.

Get the scoop on the local dog park by going without your dog at first. Find out the busiest part of the day (usually right after normal work hours and on weekends), the slowest (usually early mornings and mid-afternoons), and whether any aggressive dogs frequent the park. Visit at about the time you'll usually be there and observe who else and what other dogs are regulars at that time. Your first concern is your dog's well-being and safety, and protecting him from any aggressive dogs who may visit the park is a must.

Look at the park's design as well. Parks should have a double entry, so you can go to the first gate and unleash him while watching for the right moment to enter the main park so your dog doesn't get mugged. And since even well-meaning large dogs can hurt small dogs, it's best to find a park with a separate area for smaller dogs if you want your little guy to run.

You'll also want a park with good basic rules and an engaged group of users who enforce those rules, such as children under complete supervision by an adult (little kids can be easily injured by rough-housing dogs), a limit on the number of dogs a single person can bring in (no one can manage a dozen dogs at once) and, of course, a strict policy of immediate poop pickups.

If your dog is ready and the park seems well-managed, then it's time to take your dog. Try taking your dog to the park in the least busy time of day. Letting your dog become adjusted to the surroundings with few dogs around him will help keep him from getting overwhelmed in a situation where the dog is thrown in the park with numerous others at the busiest time of day.

Watch your dog at all times. It's poor dog-park etiquette -- not to mention unsafe -- to spend your time reading or talking to other dog owners while your dog is unsupervised. Don't allow your dog to bully or be bullied. If you see a problem developing with your dog, the safest course is usually to take him home.

One of the best parts of using a dog park is getting to hang out with others who love dogs as much as you do. Since many dog parks are maintained, policed and improved by those who use them, get active and join your dog park's association. It'll make going even more fun for you and your dog.

(Mikkel Becker Shannon contributed to this article.)

Q&A

'Toweling' stops bird from biting

Q: I used to take my parrot to the veterinary hospital every couple of months to have his wings trimmed and nails clipped. The staff there was happy to take my bird in the back, and I was happy I didn't have to deal with his histrionics.

We've moved, though, so I'm not using that vet anymore. Besides, it seems this is something I can do on my own and save money. But my bird isn't very cooperative. Can you offer some suggestions to make these sessions easier? -- W.P., via e-mail

A: Have an expert show you exactly where and how much to clip those flight feathers and nails, and learn what to do if things get bloody by accident. Ideally, that should be an avian veterinarian, a veterinary technician or someone on the staff of a reputable bird shop. Are you close enough to your old vet to go back for one more visit?

As for how to get your bird and yourself through the process, you'll need a towel to restrain your bird. An old, clean hand towel is fine for small parrots such as cockatiels and budgies, while a larger bath towel is better for large parrots such as cockatoos and macaws.

Hold the towel with the ends draped over each hand, make eye contact with your bird, and approach from the front. Show your bird the towel and then gently wrap it around the bird, usually from the front. When using a towel to restrain your bird, you do not need to keep direct hold of the head, but do expect a few new holes to be chewed in the towel while you're working with your bird.

Wrap the towel tightly enough to control your bird, but not so tightly as to restrict breathing. Pet birds breathe by moving their breast bones forward and back like a bellows. You must leave the towel wrapped loosely enough for your bird to draw breath normally.

When your bird is gently wrapped up in the towel, you are in control and can take care of grooming or of investigating any injuries. Attitude is everything: Always handle your bird with respect, but also with gentle firmness.

Keep in mind, too, that the towel is not supposed to terrify your bird. It's a good idea to play "towel games" now and then, covering and uncovering your bird while providing praise and special seeds for treats. That way, your bird won't come to believe the appearance of the towel is always a sign of something uncomfortable and unpleasant to come. -- Gina Spadafori

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and "dog cars," and a weekly drawing for pet-care prizes. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or visiting PetConnection.com.

PET BUZZ

Put your pet on wine label

-- Promote your favorite furry friend to a spot of honor: on your wine bottle. California-based Carivintas Winery (www.dogloverswineclub.com) lets you feature your dog's portrait right on the label. But this wine doesn't just taste good -- it also does good. With each sale, 10 percent goes to a Carivintas-affiliated charity of the buyer's choice. Dog lovers and wine aficionados should both lap this up.

-- Italian researchers have discovered subtle signs of dog body language suggesting that when dogs feel good about something, they tend to wag their tails more to the right. Reported in Current Biology, the study shows that when dogs have more negative or fearful feelings, their tails wag more to the left.

-- Most people can detect more than 10,000 distinct odors. Professional smellers -- known as "noses" in the fragrance industry -- can detect 10 times that amount. But even at our best, human sniffers have nothing on dogs. Bloodhounds can detect odors at concentrations nearly 100 million times lower than humans. Spirit magazine reports that if we humans had the same olfactory capabilities, we could sniff out a drop of chocolate in a city the size of Philadelphia.

-- Texas A&M University researchers are testing a new contraceptive that could be administered through baited food to control wild animal populations -- and could eventually be used in companion animals. The medication works by inhibiting maturation of the egg to prevent fertilization, but it does not inhibit the estrous cycle altogether. -- Dr. Marty Becker

PET BUY

Comparing window-mounted cat doors

When Clara joined my family last year, I was determined to keep her from roaming -- for her safety, for the safety of songbirds and out of consideration for my neighbors.

Like any cat, though, she loves fresh air, and she can get that by going into a screened area that's accessible both from my kitchen and the garage. She uses window-mounted cat doors, which gave me the opportunity to try out two different kinds.

-- The Let Meow't ($90 from pet-supply retailers, www.letmeowt.com) is more complicated to set up and to install, although a handier person than I am would have mastered it in a snap. Its lockable baffled design is energy-efficient and draft-free, although teaching a cat to get through the maze does take a while. The energy-efficiency comes at a price, though, since the unit is bulky and blocks the light. I ended up using it in the garage window, where its draft-free design doesn't really matter much, but where its room-darkening properties also don't matter.

-- The Cat Windoor ($100 from pet-supply retailers, www.petsafe.net) is a basic, lockable clear cat flap mounted in a piece of clear plastic. Installation was a snap, and it took me about 15 minutes to put in, tops. Clara figured out how to use it in about the same amount of time. I put it in the kitchen window. It's good-looking enough to have where you don't mind seeing it, and the clear plastic lets the light through. Problem is, even with the provided insulation tape, it's not very energy-efficient, and it's a little drafty.

My recommendations: Consider your application. For more visible windows in moderate climates, the Windoor is perfect. Everywhere else, the Let Meow't would be my preference. -- Gina Spadafori

PETS BY THE NUMBERS

'Natural' pet products soar

It seems pet owners are trying to reduce their animals' carbon paw print by buying products that are (or at least are marketed as) "natural." According to market-research firm Packaged Facts (www.packagedfacts.com), U.S. retail sales of "natural" pet products are climbing.

2003 sales: $558 million

2007 sales: $1.3 billion

2012 sales*: $2.5 billion

(*projected)

PET TIP

All birds need 'step up' skill

The "step up" command is basic to having a well-behaved pet parrot. Like dogs, birds are social climbers and will take advantage of the human who isn't perceived as leadership material. The bird who understands and reacts properly to "step up" is one who also knows you're in charge.

If you have a well-socialized young bird, you should be able to teach "step up" pretty easily. Start with your bird on your hand or on a T-stand perch. Ask your bird to "step up" on your finger (for small birds) or hand (for large birds) by pressing against his belly, just above the legs. Offer praise and a favorite treat (such as a seed) for complying.

Ask your bird to "step up" at least a dozen times a day -- to leave his cage, to be petted, to move from room to room -- and you'll be on your way to having a well-mannered pet. -- Gina Spadafori

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

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