Emergency veterinary clinic are often pretty exciting places, even over the holidays. While staying busy makes the time go by more quickly, I'd bet that the staff of most emergency clinics would rather not spend their time trying to save the lives of pets who may not have been there if their families had been a little more cautious. As any veterinarian will tell you, prevention is always better than a cure.

And that's why every year at this time I offer a list of the most common holiday hazards for pets: feeding problems, foreign-body ingestion and accidental poisoning. Let the veterinary staff play cards this year instead! Avoid emergencies by steering your pet clear of these holiday hazards, which sicken or kill countless pets at this time of year:

-- Food dangers. Anything that's rich, fatty or spicy can trigger a bout of intestinal upset for your pet. For some animals, a fatty treat can trigger a serious inflammation of the pancreas or intestine, either of which can kill.

What to avoid? While a little bit of meat won't hurt, steer clear of the fatty parts and the poultry skin, which also harbors too much fat.

Watch those candy dishes, too, and keep them out of reach from your pets. No candy is "good" for pets, and chocolate can be lethal.

-- Foreign-body ingestion. Cooked poultry bones are prone to splintering, sending shards through the animal's intestines. Should one pierce through the lining, the result can be deadly peritonitis.

While cooked poultry bones are out, some beef bones, raw or cooked, can be safely substituted, under supervision. Knuckle bones (for large dogs) and oxtails (for small ones) stand up to vigorous gnawing, providing your pet with hours of messy fun. Check at the meat counter for these treats. Throw out bones after a couple hours of chewing, or if they get broken into pieces that can be swallowed.

The Christmas tree is full of hazards for dogs and cats. Tinsel can be an appealing target for play, but if ingested, it can twist up the intestines. This is a particular danger to cats and kittens, who seem to find tinsel -- along with yarn, ribbon and string -- especially appealing to eat.

Ornaments, too, can be deadly in the mouths -- and stomachs -- of pets, and even the water at the base of the tree contains secretions that can at the very least cause a stomachache. Strings of light are no good for chewing, and the whole tree can come down on a cat climbing in its branches.

The best way to handle tree hazards is by making the room with the Christmas tree off-limits to your pets unless you're there to keep them out of trouble. If that's not possible, consider putting some kind of barrier up to keep pets away when you can't be watching.

-- Poisonings. Holiday plants such as mistletoe may look intriguing to your pet, but they're also toxic, as are the bulbs of the amaryllis plant. (Long the poster child for holiday poisoning, the falsely maligned poinsettia can be safely welcomed into the pet-lover's home.)

Be sure holiday greenery passes the safety test, and don't let the whirl of the holidays allow you to let down your guard when it comes to protecting your pet from toxic household chemicals.

The final part of preventive care is knowing what to do in an emergency. Do you know where to take your pets when your regular veterinary hospital is closed for a holiday? Do you have the phone number? Take a few minutes now to make sure you have the answers, just in case.

THE SCOOP

A while back I mentioned a new online magazine for dog lovers, The Daily Dog (www.thedogdaily.com), put out by the same talented woman, Beth Adelman, who also edits The Daily Cat (www.thedailycat.com). Adelman has now come out with an entertaining book that looks at feline care from a cat's point of view. The spin on "Every Cat's Survival Guide To Living With a Neurotic Owner" (Barnes and Noble Books; $7) is that the author is Adelman's cat, Yin Yin, who answers questions from other cats about what their owners are doing wrong. The concept could get old in fast order, but Adelman pulls it off in fine style, with witty, well-written answers packed with up-to-date information on nutrition, behavior and much, much more. A real find, and a great bargain!

PETS ON THE WEB

If you're not sure about what can be toxic to your pets, you might want to review the information on the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center Web site (www.aspca.org/apcc). The APCC is where veterinarians call when they need quick answers for patients who've been poisoned, and the information provided to the general public on toxic plants and products is the best you'll find anywhere. It's also a good place to check out Internet rumors, such as the ones circulating in recent months concerning cocoa hull mulch and grapes/raisins. Yes, says the APCC, you need to keep all this stuff out of your pet's mouth.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Would you please introduce your readers to an emergency animal disaster-response group called Noah's Wish? The organization is a national nonprofit that exists solely for the purpose of disaster response and preparedness in regard to animals.

The Noah's Wish team was on-site in Southern California assisting with more than 1,000 animals affected by the fires. Working in conjunction with the local animal-control agencies, Noah's Wish has organized and implemented an emergency animal shelter and provided services such as in-field rescue, day-to-day care, food, cleaning, medical attention and procurement of supplies to dogs, cats, horses, goats, turtles, rabbits, chickens, ducks and various other animals.

The director of Noah's Wish, Terri Crisp, has more than 20 years of experience in disaster response in relation to animals. She has two books published relating her stories of more than 50 disasters worldwide. Noah's Wish also recently returned from assisting animals endangered by fires in Canada.

I believe your readers would be interested in the information that Noah's Wish has provided on their Web site. There are step-by-step instructions on preparing for the worst and information on the services Noah's Wish can provide during a disaster. -- J.M., via e-mail

A: Terri Crisp is one of those people who have made such a huge difference for animals that she changed the culture. When I started writing this column, disaster experts would be dismissive of my attempts to get information on helping animals. The prevailing attitude: "We're not here to help animals. Animals don't matter. Leave 'em a bag of food and get your family out."

Years ago, I pointed out to a disaster-response expert that in fact many people consider their animals to be part of their families. His response, as I recall, was something along the lines that if such people didn't understand that animals were just, well, animals, then they deserved what they got trying to save their pets.

I can't imagine anyone saying that now. Because of people like Terri Crisp, disaster planning and response now includes animals, in part because of the recognition that people do consider animals to be part of the family and will risk their lives to save their pets.

Mind you, Noah's Wish does not suggest anyone put their lives at risk. The group strongly encourages all animal lovers to prepare themselves with the supplies and knowledge needed to evacuate their two- and four-legged family members before they are in danger. Noah's Wish will walk you through the steps of emergency preparedness on its Web site (www.noahs-wish.org; click on "Being Prepared"). To reach Noah's Wish, write to P.O. Box 997, Placerville, CA 95667 or call (530) 622-9313.

Incidentally, Terri Crisp's books are well worth seeking out. They're great reads!

Q: I know you're written about the trend toward spaying puppies and kittens. What happened to the old advice about letting them have one litter first? -- S.H., via e-mail

A: That advice, like so many old chestnuts regarding pets, had no evidence behind it. Animals do not need to be bred once for any reason, and there are many good reasons for them to be neutered before reaching sexual maturity. Of course, preventing litters helps with the pet overpopulation problem, but neutering helps each individual animal by eliminating or reducing the risks of some cancers, and preventing or reducing some behavior problems.

In short: A neutered pet is a better pet, and the sooner the deed is done, the better.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

If you want to save money on pet care, you need to work on preventing illness instead having it treated after health problems have advanced. By practicing preventive care, you will save money, and you'll also spare your pets a lot of suffering.

That sound advice sums up "The Angell Memorial Animal Hospital Book of Wellness and Preventive Care for Dogs" (McGraw-Hill, $22), a recently released work by well-regarded pet writer Darlene Arden and the staff of one of the world's top hospitals of veterinary medicine, the Boston-based Angell Memorial.

"Preventive medicine, or 'wellness,' is one of the few things that started in humans and then went to animals -- most advances in medicine work the other way around," said Arden by phone from her home in Massachusetts. "Rather than using stopgap measures to make a pet healthy after the animal has become ill, if you can prevent or catch illness early on, it's easier on the pet, the owner and the pocketbook."

Arden is quick to share some of the most important foundations of preventive care, all of which are expanded on in the book. They include:

-- Don't forget annual exams. "Just because vaccinations schedules are moving away from pets having to have shots updated annually, doesn't mean you don't need to take your dog to the veterinarian every year," says Arden.

"The annual exam is where you catch things before they become serious -- and expensive -- problems."

-- Practice good dental care. "People don't seem to realize that pets get cavities and periodontal disease just as humans do," says Arden. "You ought to brush your pet's teeth every day, with a toothpaste made for them –- they like the taste! Do not rely on hard chew toys to clean teeth -- hooves and bones can fracture the teeth, causing real problems."

Arden adds that pet dentistry is about more than healthy teeth. Rotting teeth and gums are breeding grounds for harmful bacteria, which end up in the bloodstream and can shorten a pet's life by damaging the heart, liver and kidneys.

-- Nutrition and exercise. "Choose a complete and balanced food from a reputable company that meets the AAFCO (Association of American Feed Control Officials) standards," says Arden. "As for exercise, you need to keep your dog healthy inside and out. A dog who gets lots of physical and mental exercise will be less likely to be fat and less likely to have behavior problems."

-- Accident-proof your dog. "We don't recommend that people use choke or prong collars," says Arden. "I always say to people, 'What part of "choke" do you not understand?'" Arden adds that Angell recommends positive-reinforcement training, a safe and effective alternative to old "boot-camp" methods.

Arden cautions that you need to "pet proof" your home to prevent accidents. "Get garbage cans that seal so your dog will stay out of the trash, and keep lower-level cabinets secured," she says. "You would not believe what an animal without opposable thumbs can get into. Be careful with medicines, too, and be sure to pick up any dropped pills.

"Pick up around the house, and teach your children to do the same, so small household items and toys don't get swallowed. Inside and out, keep your pets clear of household chemicals, such cleaning supplies, herbicides and pesticides. Watch out for toxic plants, as well."

-- Practice good parasite control. "Work with your veterinarian to develop safe and effective strategies for fighting fleas, ticks and worms. These parasites can make your pet miserable or even kill, and they can also present a health risk for the rest of your family," says Arden.

Want more? You'll find it in this thorough book, which in itself qualifies for a good investment in preventive medicine. If the book sells well enough, it will be followed by a similar work on preventive care for cats.

THE SCOOP

A good way to evaluate the health of a bird is to pay attention to what your pet leaves at the bottom of his cage. Birds produce feces with three components: the stool, which is semisolid and dark in color; the urates, which are a loose, whitish solid; and urine, which is nearly a clear liquid. Get to know how these wastes look normally, as well as the usual variations -- some foods can change the color of the stools, or increase the amount of urine. Once you know what's typical for your bird, you can spot abnormalities that might be an early indication of a serious illness developing.

PETS ON THE WEB

Angell Memorial Animal Hospital in Boston and the Animal Medical Center in Manhattan are just about the only places where an animal can be treated by a staff of board-certified veterinary specialists outside of hospitals affiliated with schools and colleges of veterinary medicine. Angell's Web site (www.angell.org) is mostly dedicated to the running of the hospital, with a little bit of pet-care advice thrown in for good measure. The Animal Medical Center (www.amcny.org) is more generous with its advice, offering a wide array of pet-care fact sheets.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Can you tell me why it is necessary to boost my cat's vaccines on a yearly basis? Humans develop immunity to vaccine-preventable diseases, and we know that immunity is sustained for varying lengths of time before it drops below protective levels. For example, in humans, the tetanus vaccine is required only every 10 years after an initial basic series. -- D.T., via e-mail

A: Annual boosting of many feline vaccines is no longer routinely recommended for most cats. Instead, the American Association of Feline Practitioners and the Academy of Feline Medicine recommends that veterinarians tailor their preventive-care regimen based on the lifestyles of each individual cat -- an indoor-only cat may need to be vaccinated against fewer diseases than a roaming one, for example.

For many vaccines, after the initial series of shots brings a kitten's immunity up to par, boosters are recommended at three-year intervals. Veterinarians are also advised to use individual vaccines (no combination shots, in other words), and place the shots in different parts of the body to make it easier to identify and treat any possible reactions. (The Winn Feline Foundation has a thorough explanation of vaccination protocols and the reasoning behind them at www.winnfelinehealth.org/health/vaccination-guidelines.html.)

Educate yourself about the new recommendations and then talk to your veterinarian about what's right for your cat -- exactly which vaccines are needed, and how often your cat needs to get them. And remember that even if your cat no longer needs annual boosters, she still needs an annual examination, which is an essential part of a preventive-care program.

Q: My hubby and I have two cats, but would like to add a dog now that we finally have a home of our own. We've decided that a good choice for our lifestyle would be a rescued greyhound.

Some rescue organizations say these dogs sleep all day and are happy alone, but other groups say they need someone home most of the day.

Who is right? My husband and I may be able to come home at lunch sometimes, but with today's economy there are no guarantees that workloads won't change.

Our hobbies include walking, hiking and the occasional bike ride or camping trip. We spend most of our time studying, reading, renting movies and socializing with outdoorsy people who love pets. Our yard is small, but we have a fenced dog park nearby. Oh, and we're not having kids, which shelters seem to think is important to decide in advance of adoption.

Sometimes I wonder if rescue organizations are a bit rigid in the way they decide what dogs "have to have." What do you think? -- H.H., via e-mail

A: Your situation sounds perfect for a greyhound, most of whom would be perfectly happy to sleep while you and your husband are at work -- especially if you have a nice, soft couch. The only concern would be for your cats, since some greys are cat-aggressive. Reputable greyhound adoption groups do cat-test their dogs, however, and you should be able to find one who will pose no threat to your cats.

Remember that rescue groups vary widely when it comes to adoption guidelines and yes, some are more than a bit rigid. If you are working with a rescue group that insists someone be home at all times, then by all means find another group that's a bit more open-minded when in comes to what constitutes a "good home."

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Iguanas are relatively inexpensive pets to acquire, which makes them popular for children. But caring for them properly is neither cheap nor easy, and there the problems start.

Some places that sell these pets either don't know or don't care enough to properly educate buyers about their new family members. When it comes to iguanas, the cost of a proper setup can set you back a lot more than the price of the pet itself -- but incorrect housing and care can be deadly.

If you or your child has an iguana on your wish list, make sure you know what to do to keep your new pet healthy. A good setup is crucial, and so is a proper diet. Calcium requirements are probably the most often ignored: A long-term lack of calcium can leave a pet with a rubbery jaw he can't use to feed himself.

Here are some tips to keep an iguana in good shape:

-- Diet. Iguanas should be fed plant matter only, a mixture of vegetation that's high in calcium but low in phosphorus and fat. Choices include mustard, collard and turnip greens, as well as yams, carrots, alfalfa sprouts, alfalfa hay and squash.

Chop the vegetables into a size that can be easily handled by the pet, and mix and store in the refrigerator in an airtight container. Offer small amounts twice a day and sprinkle the food with a calcium supplement, available from pet-supply stores, catalogs or Web retailers that specialize in reptiles. This diet can be supplemented by high-quality commercial foods.

Water should be available for both bathing and drinking. A ceramic dish in the enclosure is a must. Many iguanas also enjoy being sprayed with mist a couple times a day.

-- Housing. The bigger the better. Little green babies can grow to be as large as 6 feet in length in as little as three years. Cages or aquariums must be kept scrupulously clean and dry to prevent bacterial or fungal diseases. The iguana's enclosure should be lined with newspapers, or better yet, clean newsprint. (Roll ends of clean newsprint are available from many newspapers.) Other possibilities for good footing include indoor-outdoor carpeting, Astroturf or even paper-towel squares. Avoid sawdust, litter, wood shavings or gravel.

Silk artificial plants can improve the appearance of the enclosure and are easy to keep clean. Provide your pet with a place to hide, such as a cardboard box, and some branches for climbing.

Uneaten food and soiled areas must be promptly removed. For disinfecting, avoid pine oil cleaners and use a solution of one part bleach to 30 parts water. Remember that proper sanitation and handling is essential for your protection as well as your pet's, since salmonella is a risk when proper hygiene procedures aren't followed.

-- Heat and light. Instead of a hot rock, use a heating pad or undercage strip designed for use with reptiles, or a ceramic basking lamp, which emits heat but no light.

Captive reptiles need ultraviolet B light from an artificial source. Pet stores sell lightbulbs that provide the proper light for iguanas. It's best to approximate natural conditions by supplying 10 to 12 hours of light per day.

Surprised at how much work an iguana can be? If you can't care for an iguana properly -- or didn't realize how big they get -- please don't get one.

If you want to proceed, keep researching before you buy. Melissa Kaplan is one of the best sources for all things reptilian. I highly recommend her book "Iguanas for Dummies" (Wiley, $22) and her Web site, www.anapsid.org.

THE SCOOP

Used mostly for craft-making these days, old-fashioned wooden clothespins -- the kind without metal springs -- make wonderful playthings for pets such as rabbits, rats and parrots. The pins are fun for them to play with and chew on, and are inexpensive to replace. Look for them in crafts stores and on the Internet.

PETS ON THE WEB

When it comes to disasters, we need to be prepared for our human family members and for the pets who rely on us just as much or more. Take time to review your emergency plans, and to replenish or replace any necessary supplies. The Emergency Animal Rescue Service has a collection of disaster-preparedness articles on its Web site (www.uan.org/ears/tips.html), including advice geared toward pets other than dogs or cats. Specifically for horses, the University of California, Davis, Veterinary Medical Teaching Hospital offers disaster-planning tips on its Web site (www.vmth.ucdavis.edu/home/VERT/VERT/disasterprepguide.html).

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: For about two months, I have been trying to decide what to do about something that happened at the veterinarian's office. I'm hoping you have a suggestion. I went in to pick up pills for one of our pets while my husband waited in the car. He saw two of the office staff taking a dog outside. The dog was on an IV, and one woman was holding that. The other woman was trying to get the dog to go to the area where they let the animals relieve themselves.

She was nudging the dog with her foot to get him to move. Every time she did that, the dog would yelp. My husband was very disturbed and called the office to discuss what he had seen. The veterinarian would not come to the phone, and the receptionist said that the dog had been yelping ever since he was taken out of his cage.

Even if the staffperson was not hurting the dog, that is no way to treat an animal that is obviously ill or has had surgery. How much trouble would it have been to guide the dog with her hand? Her actions showed no compassion, and that concerns us.

We have taken our pets to this practice for three years, but now I am afraid to leave my pets there for treatment. If that dog was treated in such a way where people could see, I wonder what happens out of view.

I am going to change veterinarians. But do I just drop my concerns with the current practice or is there another course I should take? -– Name Withheld, via e-mail

A: In many practices, receptionists handle calls without involving the veterinarians so that the practitioners can spend their time treating patients instead of talking to salespeople or answering routine questions over the phone. It may be possible that the veterinarian was never fully informed of your concerns or of what you witnessed.

As a courtesy to the veterinarian and in hopes of preventing their possible future mishandling of animals, I would want to be certain management was fully informed of the incident and had a chance to respond to your concerns. (Not having seen what your husband saw, I would like to think there might have been an explanation, such as that the dog would have bitten a hand put down to help him instead of being nudged along with a foot.) I would send a letter that's matter-of-fact in tone, not accusatory, and ask to be contacted by phone to discuss your concerns.

If you do not hear back, or if you are not satisfied with the veterinarian's explanation, I would definitely change practices. You absolutely cannot leave an animal where you do not trust that the pets are treated with compassion, or where the veterinarians who own or run the practice will not hear your concerns about the behavior of their staff.

Q: I would like to add to your recent column on litter boxes that you should put enough litter in the pan to allow the animal to cover any waste it leaves -- at least 2 inches. Cats don't like to touch the bottom of the litter pan when burying their waste.

I ran across this little tidbit on a Web site just a couple of weeks ago. Up until then, our cat was having a problem with litter box aversion. Once I increased the depth of litter in her box, the problem was solved. -- C.S., via e-mail

A: It's like I always say: If the cat ain't happy, no one's happy. Some cats are extremely tolerant of whatever litter arrangements are made -- kind of box, brand of filler, box location, level of cleanliness -- while others simply will not use a box that isn't "just so."

Start with the basics: a good-sized box with lots of unscented litter, kept scrupulously clean and placed in a quiet and feline-convenient location. That works for most cats, and if it works with yours, don't mess with success!

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600