Poor-quality purebreds are everywhere: Vicious golden retrievers, crippled German shepherds and deaf Dalmatians -- virtually every breed has some kind of genetic problem that reputable, knowledgeable breeders are working to eliminate.

Defective dogs most often come from two kinds of breeders: the clueless or the careless. The first group is blissfully ignorant of the potential for congenital problems and the importance of socialization; the second group knows full well and could not care less.

You can get a great pet and a great deal by working with a shelter or rescue group. But if you simply must have a purebred puppy, here are some questions to ask a breeder.

-- What are the congenital defects in this breed? The breeder who says "none" or "I don't know" is to be avoided. That's a person who's not screening for what she doesn't know about, and you don't want to pay the price for her ignorance.

A good breeder tells you every remotely possible problem in the breed, from droopy eyelids to deafness to epilepsy.

-- What steps have you taken to decrease defects in your dogs? You want to hear words like "screened" and "tested" and "certified."

In breeds with the potential for hip dysplasia - that's almost every large breed -- look for PennHIP or Orthopedic Foundation for Animals certification. These are expert, unbiased evaluators who know exactly what to look for. Insist on documentation on both parents. And their parents, too.

-- Do you have the parents on site? May I see them? This is a bit of a trick question. You should always be able to see the mother -- unless she died giving birth -- but reputable breeders often don't have the father on hand. That's because the best match for any particular dog may be owned by another breeder, and the female was sent away for breeding.

As for the mother, she may be a little anxious with strangers around her puppies, but on her own you want to see a well-socialized, calm and well-mannered dog. So, too, should be the rest of the breeder's dogs. If you don't like the temperaments of a breeder's grown dogs, what makes you think you'll get a good temperament in one of the puppies?

-- What are the good and bad points of the parents, and what titles do they have? You may be looking for a pet-quality purebred, but you still want to buy from someone who knows what top-quality examples of the breed are -- and uses such animals in a breeding program. You want to see show and working titles all over that pedigree.

It doesn't matter if you go home and throw that fine pedigree in a drawer. Recent titles on both sides of a pedigree are the sign of a breeder who's making a good-faith effort to produce healthy dogs who conform to the breed standard.

-- Where were these puppies raised? How have you socialized them? "In the house" is the best answer to the first question. You want a puppy who knows what the dishwasher sounds like, whom you don't have to peel off the ceiling when a pan drops, who has set a paw on linoleum, carpet and tile.

Environmental socialization is important, but so, too, is the intentional kind. The best breeders make sure puppies have been handled by adults of both genders and by children.

-- What guarantees do you provide? You want to see a contract explaining the breeder's responsibilities should the puppy develop a congenital ailment. In most cases, such contracts state either replacement with a new puppy or refunding of your purchase price.

The contract also states your responsibilities, such as neutering your pet. You may also be required to return the dog to the breeder if you can no longer keep him. Such language is the sign of a concerned and responsible breeder.

Read and discuss the paperwork with the breeder. The best breeders offer contracts that protect not only the buyer and seller, but also the most vulnerable part of the transaction: the puppy.

THE SCOOP

New feathers, often called blood feathers, can be identified by their waxy sheathes and are well-endowed with a blood supply to support growth. In a healthy bird, a broken blood feather is not a cause for alarm, despite popular opinion - the blood will clot and the bleeding will stop. If your bird breaks a blood feather, don't panic. It's likely not worth worrying about. If the bleeding doesn't resolve itself quickly, or if your bird keeps re-injuring the area, call an avian veterinarian for guidance.

PETS ON THE WEB

With the recent tragedies, we are all painfully aware of the contributions of rescue workers, who risk their lives (and sometimes lose them) to help others in time of trouble. Specially trained dogs are always a part of any rescue organization, with an astonishing record of finding people alive when all hope seems gone. The National Association for Search and Rescue (www.nasar.org) is an umbrella group of all who put their lives on the line in a disaster. The Web site has a section on the work of rescue dogs, as well as links to regional rescue organizations.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I could not believe that you advised cat owners to put a collar on their cat or get a microchip. How about keeping them home? I am sick and tired of cats pooping in the back yard, screaming all night and fighting.

If a dog were to get in someone's yard and bark all night and make a mess, the pound would be called immediately. What makes you think a cat is any different? If a person is going to get a cat, then the animal should be kept indoors, or the owner should buy 10 acres so it can roam.

You seem to be ignorant of the problems cats cause, and I haven't even addressed their filthy mouths that cause infections and swelling when they bite, especially in children. My son had to be hospitalized from a cat bite when he tried to get one out from under the bushes. Of course, the cat was just roaming the neighborhood, as you advise.

A person like you shouldn't have a column. You're not responsible enough to check the facts before you write, and you write based on your own personal preference. -- J.R., via e-mail

A: As longtime readers well know, my personal preference is exactly the same as yours: Cats should not be left to roam, both for their own safety and out of consideration for neighbors. Cats can indeed live happy lives indoors, especially if given access to a screened-in porch, or a yard equipped with netting to keep cats contained.

But I also recognize that in many places, it's perfectly legal to let cats roam, and even in those areas with "leash laws" on the books for cats, enforcement is nonexistent. And many people are convinced that their cats are happier roaming.

The reality is that cats will always roam. My point in writing the column is that if the animals are wearing collars and tags, there is a chance that they will make it home if lost.

I need to make a couple more points. If cats are spayed and neutered, they won't be screaming in the night for mates and fighting will be greatly reduced.

As for cat bites, the numbers are insignificant compared to the national figures for dog bites. That said, children must be taught to leave strange animals alone, and any animal bite should be treated promptly by a medical professional.

Q: I have a Senegal parrot, and I'm thinking about purchasing another one. Is there a simple way to tell the males from the females? -- E.M., via e-mail

A: The Senegal is one of the best pet parrots you can choose, a small bird not much larger than a cockatiel with a very easygoing temperament. This species is usually not much of a talker, but it's also not much of a screamer. And a well-socialized bird from a reputable source will be a playful and affectionate companion.

There's not much difference in temperament between males and females, and either should make a fine pet. While many parrots show no difference in markings between male and female, the Senegal can occasionally be visually sexed. While it's not considered all that reliable a method of determination, some experts say that birds with a shorter "V" in the green marking of the chest are males; in females the V drops down lower, almost to a point between the legs.

For a definitive answer, though, you'll have to consult an avian veterinarian.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Bargain-hunting is a bad idea when it comes to buying a purebred puppy. Paying attention in any but the most cursory way to price is about the worst strategy I know of for determining the potential health and temperament of a dog.

"Cheap" puppies are no bargain, and some high-priced pups likewise come with no guarantee of health and good temperament. The best pet bargains of all can usually be found in a shelter, but for those who insist on a purebred puppy, finding a reputable breeder without regard to price is the best way to go.

Those who offer puppies at prices that seem too good to be true are most often casual breeders, the kind who usually don't concern themselves with such niceties as screening the parents for congenital defects, and who may not know enough about puppy development to ensure that the babies are well-socialized at critical stages.

Like many people, these casual breeders have the mistaken idea that registration from the American Kennel Club means a dog is of breedable quality. But even the AKC doesn't think so: In its own printed and online information, the organization cautions buyers that registration with the dominant breed registry in the United States is no guarantee of high quality.

When you're dealing with casual backyard breeders who don't know enough, or high-volume commercial breeders (also known as "puppy mills") who don't care enough, you put yourself at a higher risk of ending up with a dog whose physical and emotional problems could cost you a bundle -- and break your heart.

Casual breeders tend to be on the low end of the price scale, mostly because they haven't the overhead a reputable breeder does. The dogs they choose as parents generally come from other casual breeders, since reputable breeders usually sell pet-quality puppies with contracts that insist the animals be neutered. Casual breeders rarely spend the money a reputable breeder does to certify breeding stock that's free of such congenital defects as hip dysplasia, a crippling malady that can cost thousands to treat.

Casual breeders don't spend time and money training and showing the animals they hope to breed, and they don't compete with them in sports that prove the animal's intelligence, trainability and instincts. Finally, they rarely spend much money (if any) to acquire a mate for their female. It's usually a friend's or neighbor's dog, which is a far cry from the choice a reputable breeder might make, sending a dog to the best mate available, even if he's on the other side of the country, or even if it will cost hundreds or even thousands of dollars for artificial insemination.

And what about commercial breeders, who often get top dollar for their pups? Organizations such as the AKC and the Humane Society of the United States, as well as any number of reputable news organizations, have documented over the years that large-scale breeders too often don't concern themselves with a pup's health and temperament, either. In many of these operations, puppies are raised like livestock in outdoor enclosures with little human contact. (And too often under conditions that would make any animal lover shudder with horror.).

To be fair, I know of people who have ended up with purebred puppies from both casual and commercial breeders and have had nothing but delight from their pets. Others have ended up with problem pups from breeders who seem to do everything right. That's because animals are individuals. Just as with people, a pup from good circumstances raised with all the advantages sometimes turns out to be a problem, while a pup who has to struggle against the odds sometimes turns out splendidly.

In general, though, you're much better off being an informed consumer when it comes to choosing a purebred puppy. It's all about getting the odds in your favor, and if you have your heart set on a purebred puppy, you need to realize that the odds of ending up with a healthy, emotionally stable dog are much better when you buy from a reputable breeder.

Next week, I'll explain how to evaluate a breeder, along with offering some alternatives for finding purebreds who'll fit your budget -- and not break your bank account and heart later.

PETS ON THE WEB

Do you have any recourse when you buy a puppy who turns out to be sick? In some states, you do. Thanks to the increasing popularity of "puppy lemon laws," you can in some cases get money to cover veterinary expenses, or be given the option of exchanging or returning the puppy. Mary Randolph's book "Dog Law" (Nolo Press, $14.95) covers this topic expertly, and an excerpt from this wonderful book appears on the publisher's Web site (www.nolo.com/encyclopedia/articles/np/nn179.html). It's well worth a read.

THE SCOOP

Newspapers are perfectly safe for lining the cages of birds and small pets. While some pet lovers worry about the ink on the paper, veterinarians who deal with birds and other small pets report seeing no problems with animals who spend their lives in close proximity to old newspapers. Some do recommend sticking with black-and-white papers, however, and skipping those pages with color inks, or those printed in color on glossier paper.

If you want to be completely ink-free, check with your local newspaper. Many sell the ends of the big rolls of paper that go onto the presses. This blank newsprint is great for lining cages and also quite handy for children's art projects. And best of all: Newsprint roll ends can usually be had on the cheap!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I live in Northern Ireland, and I have a friend in Michigan who just got an 8-week-old kitten. She is going to get it declawed, which is something I am strongly opposed to.

I feel it is barbaric and one of the most cruel things you can do to a cat. However, she will not listen to me, and is determined to go ahead and get it done.

How can I get her to stop? The more I think about it the madder I get. She is acting on the advice of a veterinarian, and she will not listen when I say all he is interested in is the money. What can I do? -- S.M., via e-mail

A: Debarking and declawing are procedures that are common in the United States but are widely condemned in many European countries.

You may take some solace in the fact that here in the states, many animal-welfare organizations are as appalled at these procedures as you are and work to educate pet lovers that such operations are unnecessary in most cases. Likewise, many veterinarians refuse to do them on ethical grounds.

But there are two sides to every issue. For some pets, solving a behavior problem surgically is all that stands between them and homelessness. As a pragmatist, I would rather see a pet declawed than euthanized, and in this opinion I am joined by many veterinarians. It's unfair to label as greedy those practitioners who do these surgeries.

I am, though, uncomfortable enough with declawing and debarking to consider the measures as last-ditch solutions to behavior problems, not as pre-emptive strikes. There's no reason to declaw an 8-week-old kitten, since a cat this young can be trained to use a scratching post.

Still, the decision is your friend's, and she has made it. There's not much else you can do.

Q: I am interested in positive reinforcement training using a clicker, but I have not been able to find a clicker to purchase. I went to a pet-supply store, some local toy stores and a couple of novelty stores. Any suggestions? -- J.M., via e-mail

A: DogWise has a complete selection of materials for positive-reinforcement training, including clickers, videos and books. You can access the company's offerings on the Internet at www.dogwise.com, or by calling 1-800-776-2665.

If you're looking for classes in clicker training, your best bet is to check the membership listings of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers at www.apdt.com. Although not all members are clicker trainers, a good percentage of them are. Check out those in your area, and call each for details.

The APDT Web site also offers a list of recommended books and videos on positive-reinforcement dog training, as well as tips on finding a trainer who works with these methods.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

On our way back from Florida to our home in California, the dogs and I stopped in Texas to visit with the college professor friend who had bred my youngest dog, Heather.

Mary has been a respected fancier for a couple of decades, breeding a carefully planned litter every couple of years, at most. Her dogs are among the very best of their breed, healthy and intelligent animals with honors galore, champions who also shine in obedience and agility competitions and at field trials. I was nervous about seeing her, because she is not shy with her opinions when something doesn't meet with her approval.

My fears were realized when she took one look at Heather, then cast a stern eye in my direction. "Gina," she said in a voice that surely instills terror in her economics students, "Heather is fat. This will not do."

And so, Heather's diet days began.

As a pudgy retriever, Heather was in good company. Obesity is as common in pets as it is in people, which means there are a lot of overweight animals around.

And just as with people, obesity is far more than an appearance issue. An overweight pet is prone to a host of related problems, including diabetes, joint, ligament and tendon problems, breathing difficulties and heart disease. Overweight cats can even develop skin problems from not being able to groom themselves properly. Pets do not feel the social stigma unfairly heaped on overweight people, but they certainly share the potential for shorter, more uncomfortable lives.

Is your pet overweight? Healthy pets should have some padding, but a little is plenty. Rub your hands over your pet's ribs. The skin should move easily back and forth, and you should be able to feel the ribs. Your pet should have a definable "waist" at the bottom of the rib cage, a small tuck-in at the stomach. Take a look from the side: If your pet looks pregnant, he's fat. From above, a bump out from the middle into an apple shape is equally bad news. And it's not just dogs and cats who can get in trouble: Birds can be obese, too, developing a thicker breast and even rolls of fat.

Crash diets aren't good for pets, especially not for fat cats, who can develop a fatal liver problem if forced to reduce too quickly. A pet doesn't put on weight overnight, and he shouldn't be forced to change course any more rapidly. What you'll need to do is change your pet's eating and exercise habits gradually.

The best place to start is with a trip to your veterinarian. You'll want to make sure your pet doesn't have any problems that might make any lifestyle changes difficult. Your vet can also suggest a food plan that might help. Carve some time out of your schedule to walk your dog or play with your cat -- three times a week, at least. Be sure to work in some aerobic exercise, anything that gets a cat or dog running. Birds can benefit from a curled-rope spring perch. They have to work to stay on them, decreasing boredom and increasing calorie burn.

Whatever food regimen you and your veterinarian decide on, be determined to stick to it. Get out of the habit of expressing your love for your pets by handing them treats. Keep the goodies to a minimum, and switch to a reduced-calorie treat, mini rice cakes or raw carrots.

Heather hasn't been happy with her new food regimen, but she dances with joy at her now-frequent runs alongside my bicycle. And after four months home, I can happily report that we could return to Texas without worry: The formerly fat Heather is now as lean as a marathoner.

PETS ON THE WEB

As the dominant registries of purebred dogs and cats in North America, the American Kennel Club and the Cat Fanciers' Association are understandably interested in legislation that might change the way pets are treated. The organizations issue updates on their Web sites to keep pet lovers informed about laws that might affect them at the national, state and local level. The AKC's legislative alert page (www.akc.org/love/dip/legislat/index.cfm) is the more comprehensive of the two sites, and is updated frequently. The CWA's site (www.cfainc.org/org/legal.html) has a few position statements and an e-mail contact for more information.

THE SCOOP

If your cat had an "oops" litter recently, don't delay when it comes to scheduling a spay for her. Cats can become pregnant as early as a week after delivering a litter, and certainly are ready to breed again when the kittens start to wean at the age of 3 weeks.

Many "oops" litters happen when a new pet owner doesn't pay attention to how quickly a kitten is maturing. It's not uncommon for a cat to get pregnant at 5 months of age or even younger. One accidental litter is bad enough with so many kittens desperate for homes. Don't let your cat surprise you twice: If your cat is a new mother, call the veterinarian today and get that spaying done.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I recently moved in with my significant other, and now my cat is urinating on the shower door. My lady friend is not "pet friendly " at all, and so I put the litter box in the garage, at her request. I installed a cat door between the house and the garage, and the cat knows how to use it. She still insists on urinating inside instead of going to the garage where the litter box is. Can you offer some suggestions? -- R.A., via e-mail

A: The only opinion that counts when it comes to a litter box is the one held by the cat who has to use it. I'm guessing your cat is stressed by the changes and doesn't like having the box in the garage, for whatever reason.

After your veterinarian makes sure your cat doesn't have a health problem that could be causing the behavior, get a fresh start by creating an area in which your pet can establish new habits. The space can be a spare bedroom or extra bath. Ideally, it should be a low-traffic area that can be isolated from the rest of the house. Make sure your cat has everything she needs, including food and water, a soft place to sleep, a scratching post or cat tree, some toys and, of course, the litter box.

In the meantime, thoroughly clean the area near the shower with an enzymatic cleaner to remove the smells that invite a repeat performance. Keep your cat in her new room for a couple of weeks, visiting her frequently to pet her and play with her. The time in the smaller area allows her to get used to the litter box in a spot more to her liking.

Eventually, you can open the door and allow her to expand her range. By easing her into her new home and putting the box where it suits her better, you'll be doing your best to make peace between your pet and your mate.

Q: Our Lab mix died a few months ago at the age of 14. We went back to the humane society where we had such good luck before. After a couple of visits, we found a sweet shepherd-mix puppy and decided to adopt her. The shelter insists on having her spayed before we take her home. She's only 10 weeks old, and we can't believe surgery would be safe for her now. There's no problem with spaying her, but we'd rather do it when she's 6 months old. The shelter says it's now or never. What do you think? -- D.A., via e-mail

A: Follow the shelter's advice. The neutering of puppies and kittens as young as 8 weeks of age has become fairly routine, and studies show rather convincingly that there are no long-term health or behavior problems as a result.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600