By the rule of law, a dog needs shelter, food and water. By the rule of all that is right and fair, a dog needs a whole lot more.

The animals least likely to get the love, training and attention dogs need to realize their potential as companions? Outdoor dogs, who are sometimes lucky just to get shelter, food and water.

I have never understood why anyone would want to keep a dog entirely outside. What's the point? You don't get the benefits of companionship from a dog you see once or twice a day, just to throw down some food for or maybe play a quick game of fetch with. How can you know an animal you don't really live with? How can he know you?

You can't even get security benefits from the pet who roams the back yard or spends his time on a chain. If an intruder makes it inside my house, he's going to find three dogs there. If an intruder makes it past an outdoor dog -- simply by coming in a front window, perhaps -- he's home free. And don't count on outdoor dogs as an early warning system. These animals often become such indiscriminate barkers that you couldn't tell from the sound whether the dog's barking at a prowler or at a toddler riding a tricycle down the street. Besides, people who keep outdoor dogs seem to become quite good at ignoring the noise they make, much to the ire of their neighbors.

Outdoor dogs are at high risk for being abandoned. The tight, loving bond that occurs when a dog lives as part of a family often doesn't form with an outside dog, and that makes it easier to dump such an animal when he becomes more trouble then he's worth. In my neighborhood, there's a family who gets a new puppy every year, usually a mix of a couple of large protective breeds. Year after year, each of these sweet puppies is left to grow up without socialization or training. By the time he's replaced, yesterday's neglected baby has become a dangerous nuisance, unlikely to get a second chance with a new family.

Pets like these are all too common. Bored and lonely, outdoor dogs develop any number of bad habits. They dig craters in the yard. They bark endlessly, day and night. They become chewers of outdoor furniture, sprinkler heads and siding. And sometimes, without the socialization all dogs need, they become flat-out dangerous, ready to bite anyone who comes into the back yard or within range of their chain. The victim is much more likely to be a child, friend or neighbor than a crook: The dog can't tell the difference.

If you're considering adopting a dog with the intent of keeping him completely outside, please reconsider -- for the animal's sake as well as your own and that of your neighbors. Sure you'll end up dealing with fur in the house if you welcome your dog inside, but it's nothing compared to the pleasures of living with a pet who's really bonded to you.

If you have a dog that has become an outside dog because of behavior problems, find someone to help you turn the situation around. It's not true that an old dog can't learn new tricks. Ask your veterinarian for a referral to a behaviorist or trainer who can show you how to overcome the things that are driving you crazy, whether it's house-soiling, uncontrolled chewing or just the ill-mannered exuberance of a dog who doesn't know any better.

It's worth the effort. Once you have a dog you can welcome into your home and your heart, you'll start to reap the benefits of a relationship that's finally being realized to its fullest potential. And that's good news for you both.

PETS ON THE WEB

Blue Mountain is one of the original sites for e-cards, those animated, musical extravaganzas that are kind of fun to find in your electronic mailbox. Blue Mountain's collection of pet-related e-cards (www2.bluemountain.com/eng/pets) offers a colorful selection with a lot of variety. You can send a card to your pet's e-mail address -- my pets have one, don't yours? -- or to a pet-loving friend or even your family's veterinarian. Most selections are aimed at those with dogs or cats, but there are even a couple of e-cards for less popular pets, such as rabbits.

THE SCOOP

Like most gardeners, "hate" isn't all that strong a word to use when it comes to how I feel about snails. But I never, ever use snail bait, because it's deadly not just to snails and slugs but also to dogs, cats and birds.

Instead, I conduct regular "snail safaris" at night with a flashlight, picking up snails by the shell and putting them in a bag that I then place in the garbage bin. Another alternative to traditional snail bait is iron phosphate, which is marketed under the brand name Sluggo.

If you suspect your pet has gotten into snail bait -- symptoms include frothing at the mouth, vomiting and convulsions -- see your veterinarian immediately. Your pet's life depends on your prompt action.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I find it sad that you and many others are so upset about a stupid animal that gets killed and yet you never say a word or get together a $110,000 reward to help find any of the missing children in this country.

Like most liberal goofs, you think that animals and plants or whatever are more important than human life. This story just demonstrates how warped people's priorities have become. Get a life. It was an animal, for goodness' sake.

The guy who did this was an idiot and should be punished, but you ding-a-lings are more torn up about this dog than you would be about a human. You guys are sick. -- anonymous, via e-mail

A: I got a lot of mail like yours -- most of it unsigned -- when Andrew Burnett was found guilty recently of throwing Sara McBurnett's dog Leo into traffic after a fender-bender last year in San Jose, Calif.

I don't know about the rest of the "ding-a-lings," but this one cares every bit as much about humans as she does about the rest of the animals. There's nothing about being an animal lover that precludes you from caring about people, after all.

In fact, if the laws against animal cruelty were strengthened and vigorously enforced, it would be as much of a benefit for people as it would be for animals. That's because studies show that people who are violent against people -- from child- and spouse-abusers to mass-murderers -- get their "training" by abusing animals. Stopping animal abuse would short-circuit the careers of a lot of violent offenders.

As for the reward, the vast majority of it was in very small amounts and no doubt came from people who saw themselves in Sara McBurnett's place: scared out of her wits dealing with an angry and violent man on the side of the freeway. What this man did was as much a crime against McBurnett as it was against Leo. He wanted to hurt her, and in his out-of-control fury he did so by throwing her dog into traffic.

It's too bad that you feel differently, but someone capable of causing such pain needed to be stopped and needs to be punished. And thank heavens for those who believe in this enough to see the case through to the end. Animal cruelty is rarely taken so seriously, and that's flat wrong.

On the same subject, here's another letter from the woman who never will forget that night.

Q: The article you wrote about my tragedy with Leo was eloquent and thoughtful. Your talent for writing and your opinion will be greatly appreciated in a recommendation for the sentencing of Andrew Douglas Burnett on July 13. You may write your opinion of the defendant, and your recommendation for sentencing to:

The Hon. Kevin J. Murphy

c/o Troy Benson, D.A. Santa Clara County

70 West Hedding St.

San Jose, CA 95110

I'm sure that you share my opinion that three years is a slap on the wrist for a vicious act of animal cruelty, but at least it's a start. Let's hope it sends a message that society will no longer tolerate acts of animal cruelty, and that perpetrators will be held accountable to the fullest extent of the law. -- Sara McBurnett (Leo's mom)

A: Sara, I have already sent my letter, and I hope others will do the same. In it, I admirably and with no small effort held back from suggesting a penalty that seems to me more appropriate for this man, involving a dark, rainy night and four lanes of traffic. But that's perhaps more vindictive than constructive, so let's just hope for the maximum penalty allowed by law.

Let's hope, too, that in Leo's memory more people like the letter-writer above will come to realize that animal cruelty is not only a serious crime on its own, but is also too often the prelude to crimes against humans. We need to stop treating these cases with an "It's just an animal" attitude, because these crimes are about animals and so much more.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Feathers are one of nature's most stupendous feats of engineering, as strong and functional as they are beautiful. Although feathers vary from species to species -- compare the feathers of a penguin with the plumes of an ostrich to see how much -- the birds we keep as pets have three basic feather types:

-- Down feathers: These soft, short feathers, usually found closest to the skin, serve to keep the bird warm. Down feathers are the first feathers a baby bird has, and they function as sort of an avian layette.

The heat-trapping qualities of down feathers should come as no surprise; humans have used the down feathers of birds, especially geese, in any number of stay-warm products, from comforters to jackets.

On some species, a few of the down feathers are made to crumble: These "powderdown" feathers break into fine dust to aid in the bird's grooming. Birds from the more arid environments -- such as some parts of Africa and Australia -– are dustier than those from rainforests because of these feathers. Hug a cockatoo while wearing a dark shirt and you'll see what I mean: You'll find yourself covered with soft, white dust!

-- Contour feathers: These feathers have down "puffs" at their base and are stiffer toward the end. Contour feathers cover most of the body, including the down feathers. Dr. T.J. Lafeber, a pioneering avian veterinarian, describes the relationship of the down feathers to the contours as similar to a lined windbreaker: The down feathers keep warmth in, while the contours keep wind and rain at bay.

Unlike the fur of mammals, which grows pretty evenly over the entire body, contour feathers are arranged in tracts, between which are areas of bare skin.

-- Flight feathers: The longest and stiffest feathers are those used for flight, and they are found both on the wings and on the tail. The flight feathers are really modified contour feathers, specifically evolved to get the bird up into the air and help keep it there.

Flight feathers have little or no down at the base. If you look at one closely, you'll notice threads (called "barbules") protruding from the stiff barbs that come off the main shaft. On each barb, the barbules on the upper edge have hooklets, and the ones on the lower edge have ridges for catching the hooklets. The result is a strong, smooth, interwoven surface perfect for supporting flight.

A single feather may contain up to a million tiny barbules. When you watch your bird grooming his feathers, you will see him rearranging the location of the feather as well as pulling the feathers through his beak gently, to help re-lock hooklets that may have popped loose -- kind of like Velcro that came unattached and needs attention.

The gift of flight doesn't come without a price, and for birds that means a large part of their time is spent keeping feathers in fine shape, a behavior called "preening." Birds are so dedicated to keeping every one of the couple of thousand feathers they have in good order that they make even the neatest human seem like a slob by comparison.

Want to do your part? Help your bird with his grooming by getting him wet on a regular basis. Some birds enjoy being misted with a spray bottle, while others have perches in the shower and will go in when you do. Still others enjoy taking a bath in their cages. Experiment until you find out what suits your bird best, then give him a drenching as frequently as every day. It'll help him keep those marvelous feathers in fine form.

PETS ON THE WEB

If you haven't heard of Mr. Winkle yet, chances are you will soon. The fuzzy-headed little dog has been on the cover of a national pet magazine and the subject of his own calendar and, soon, his own book. He also has his own keyword (Mr. Winkle) on AOL.

Mr. Winkle is awfully cute, and he has his own photographer. What more would a dog need to become a celebrity? Photographer Lara Jo Regan has made him look his best on his Web site, www.mrwinkle.com. Look at the pictures, watch the movie, and if you can't resist, buy the merchandise. Mr. Winkle approves of it all.

THE SCOOP

On these hot days, it's perfectly fine to give pets ice cubes to enjoy. Dogs and cats may even enjoy "petsicles" made from chicken or beef broth and frozen in ice-cube trays.

One way to keep a pet's drinking water cool is to add homemade ice blocks. Freeze water in margarine tubs, then add a block of ice to the water dish before you leave for work in the morning. You like cold treats and cool drinks on hot days, and so does your pet!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: When I moved to my present home almost a year ago, I moved Patches, her food dish and litter box in first. I put her box and food in the laundry room. After all the moving was done, I closed all the outside doors, leaving the door to the laundry room open.

When I let her out of her carrier in the laundry room, she hid under the steps or behind the water heater. She stayed there for several hours. I got a familiar blanket for her, and she and I spent the rest of the night in "our" chair watching videos. By morning she was fine.

Love your column, and read it every time it's in my paper. Keep 'em coming. -– W.M., via e-mail

A: Congratulations! You eased Patches through one of the most difficult times in any cat's life: a change of residence.

It's always important to proceed with safety and patience when moving a cat. Your cat settled down in short order, while another cat may take days or even weeks to adjust.

Limiting a cat's access to a small room -– such as the laundry room you chose -– makes her feel more secure while she's adjusting. Make sure she has everything she needs -- food, water, litter box, something to scratch, something to sleep on, and a toy or two.

Never rush or force a cat. Let her choose when to explore the rest of the house, and if she wants to view the world from under the bed, let her.

You obviously have a very good relationship with Patches. That's what allowed you to "read" her feelings and provide her with some affection when she needed it. It surely reassured her that her surroundings may have changed, but you are still there for her.

Q: About three years ago I bought my kids a couple of budgies. I suspected that they would not pay too much attention to the birds after we got them, so I deliberately bought two (so they would bond).

The birds are indeed pretty much ignored, except that their cage is kept clean and they are fed and watered daily. Of course by this time they are quite hand-shy.

Is there an easy way to tell if they are happy or miserable? The budgies do not feather-pick, and they chirp to each other quite regularly. Does this mean they are happy enough with the current arrangements, or do I need to start trying to rehabilitate them? -- G.H., via e-mail

A: Too many budgies end up like these, a pet ignored by the children who wanted them. (At least these birds are well-cared-for, which isn't always the case in such situations.) What a shame for any budgie to be underappreciated, for a well-socialized budgie is a marvelous pet, sweet and affectionate. Many are great talkers, too.

It sounds as if your two are bonded to each other and happy enough with the situation. It wouldn't hurt to try working with them individually, though. Aside from the socializing (which they may not like), I'd suggest some environmental enrichment for your budgies. The cages that are matched to birds at pet-supply stores are usually at least one size too small. The more space to explore, the better, especially for a cage-bound bird.

Also, make sure they have toys to play with, and lots of fresh foods to eat. Variety is important when it comes to food, not just for the nutritional value of vegetables, fruits, bread, scrambled eggs, pasta and more, but also because different shapes, colors, tastes and textures help with boredom.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

What do an ironing board, clingy plastic food wrap and a condom have in common? In an emergency medical situation, all can be pressed into service to help save the life of your pet.

Surprising, innovative and definitely useful, such information makes a new book on first aid for dogs and cats an essential part of every pet lover's reference library. When an animal is sick or injured at home, chances are you won't have instant access to either a veterinarian or to professional-grade medical supplies. But you will be able to lay your hands on a book that tells you in easy-to-understand terms what to do right now and how, so you can buy your pet some time when it counts most.

This was exactly what pet expert Amy Shojai was hoping for when she came up with the idea for her latest book, "The First Aid Companion for Dogs and Cats" (Rodale, $29.95).

"When working on my previous books I had been researching first aid," said Shojai, the Sherman, Texas- based writer of more than a dozen books on pets. "I was really struck by the fact that most were written by veterinarians who assumed that the pet owner who was reading the book had a chest full of veterinary medical supplies right there."

Shojai even noticed one book that made reference to a stretcher, something even the most well-prepared pet owner wouldn't have on hand. "So I wondered: What do you do when you don't have professional equipment? And it's a no-brainer: You use what's available."

Like using an ironing board for a stretcher. Or a cookie sheet, if the injured animal is a cat or small dog. Plastic food wrap can be used to hold wounds together until the animal can be seen by a veterinarian. And a condom? Shojai says it's ideal for holding a bandage on the paw of a cat or small dog.

Before she started writing about pets, Shojai worked as a veterinary technician. She saw firsthand how many times a pet lover's response to an animal's injury or illness made the difference in determining if the animal later lived or died. In "The First Aid Companion" she draws on her hands-on experiences as well as on the expertise of more than 80 veterinarians to give pet lovers the information they need, at exactly the time they need it most.

More than 150 common medical problems are covered in the book, along with information on how to prevent life-threatening emergencies. Each alphabetically listed entry, from "abdominal wounds" to "worms," offers an immediate assessment of the situation: whether the animal needs to see a veterinarian immediately, relatively quickly, or if the problem can be remedied at home. A "do this now" guide explains what the pet lover's immediate response should be. The layout of the book also helps. It's designed so that each entry covers facing pages, so the book can be opened on a table to leave the pet lover's hands free to help the injured or sick animal. The entries even offer advice on follow-up care after the pet has been treated by a veterinarian.

Shojai take pains to stress that no first-aid book should take the place of a veterinarian's care. Indeed, she makes it clear on every page that her book is meant to complement the efforts of professionals.

"Veterinarians don't want to be the last line of defense," says Shojai. "They want to be the first line, and they want to give a pet a fighting chance. First aid is just that: (BEGIN ITALS)first(END ITALS) aid. It does not replace a veterinarian's care."

"The First Aid Companion for Dogs and Cats" is the first such book I've seen that makes a pet owner a full member of the team when it comes to saving the life of a pet. Along with the number of the nearest emergency veterinary clinic, this book is something every pet lover should keep on hand, just in case.

PETS ON THE WEB

Skunks as pets? They're illegal in most places, strictly regulated in most others and controversial everywhere else. But don't expect to find anything but positive information on the Skunks as Pets Web site (www.skunksaspets.com). The site is definitely pro-skunk.

If you're interested in these animals as pets, please note that you don't just go out and find a wild baby skunk -- pet versions come from breeders and can be surgically altered by a veterinarian so they cannot spray. And they don't just come in black-and-white stripes, but in many different varieties of patterns and markings. The Skunks as Pets site explains it all (although sometimes in type that's a strain on the eyes and needs to be larger).

THE SCOOP

"Lite" varieties of dog food reduce calories per serving by adding fiber to the formula, including such material as peanut hulls and beet pulp. The idea is to make the animal feel full on fewer calories, and in so doing save you from the guilt you'll feel when your pet looks up from his bowl with a forlorn "Is that all I get?" look.

While the strategy likely won't work for cats, you can create your own lower-calorie, higher-fiber meals for your overweight dog by replacing one-third of the daily ration of his everyday food with green beans. Buy them frozen in large bags to reduce costs, and store them thawed in your refrigerator.

Why won't a cat go for green beans? Because while dogs are scavengers, with very broad tolerances when it comes to food, cats are true carnivores. Meat is what cats prefer, and green beans won't tempt the palates of the vast majority of them.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Thank you so much for your great article on dog parks. I help put together dog parks, helping manage them in Santa Rosa, Calif., and I know that common sense is the one thing so many people fail to use. I was especially happy that you recommended removing choke collars. We also recommend taking prong collars off, as the prongs can get stuck in another dog's collar.

The only comment you made that may be a problem is regarding muzzling. We have found that dogs need to be let off the leash prior to entering the park because being restrained when other dogs approach triggers a defensive mechanism in some animals. The same would go for a muzzle. Being unable to protect himself, the dog will feel threatened and at the mercy of all the others, which he will be.

All dogs need to be unrestrained and neutral in a confined area. It helps keep everyone safe. -- Sandi Brown, via e-mail

A: The benefits of dog parks are twofold: exercise and socialization. The use of a box muzzle allows a dog who shouldn't otherwise be in a dog park, because of proven aggressive tendencies, to get the exercise he needs.

Regular sessions of heart-thumping exercise have been shown to be an essential element in resolving behavior problems. A tired dog is more likely to be a good dog and is certainly a happy dog.

I don't believe that other dogs and people should be put at risk so a dog who is known to bite can run free. For those dogs, a comfortable box muzzle is a compromise that allows the benefits of off-leash exercise to extend to all in safety.

Of course, I recommend that anyone with a dog whose aggressiveness is a concern should find a behaviorist who can help with the long-term management of the problem.

Q: After constantly reading that "Beware of Dog" signs are a good home-security device, I was curious as to what your take was on this topic. My main concern is that by using the signs you give the impression that you have a vicious dog, and that people will act improperly toward your dog. -- R.L., via e-mail

A: I don't recommend "Beware of Dog" signs because in these lawsuit-happy times such a posting suggests that you had prior knowledge that your dog could hurt someone. And that could set you up for real trouble. After all, even a friendly dog could cause injury with an exuberant greeting. In my family we still tell the story of when our boxer jumped up to kiss my grandmother. When he landed, he broke her toe. (She didn't sue.)

Instead of "Beware of Dog," post something that makes it clear there are dogs about (and so gives would-be burglars a "stay clear" message) but doesn't offer any statement on the temperament of the pets in question. "Dog(s) in Yard" should fit the bill adequately, and I have on occasion seen these available in hardware stores.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600