And Gina Spadafori
Universal Press Syndicate
People who have dogs are more likely to have just one. Cat lovers, on the other hand, tend to go for the multiples.
But in a lot of those multi-feline families, relations between cats are a bit strained. And when cats aren't happy, nobody's happy. The noise of cats grumbling threats at each other or engaging in frequent rumbles can get on one's nerves and even mean trips to the veterinarian. And the litter-box problems that can be a part of such turf wars can turn an entire house into a toilet.
Living with more than one cat doesn't have to be so contentious. The trick to domestic harmony for cohabiting felines is to introduce -- or reintroduce -- them slowly and carefully.
If you don't have a cat yet and know you'll eventually want two, it's easiest to adopt two adult siblings or two kittens at the same time. Adult siblings who have grown up together are already used to each other, and unrelated or sibling kittens don't have the sense of territory that grown cats have and will settle down together into a new home nicely.
But even a solitary adult cat can learn to enjoy living with another adult. Since the worst territorial spats are between cats who aren't spayed or neutered, your chances for peaceful co-existence are many times greater if the cats are both altered before any introductions are planned.
Prepare a room for your new cat, with food and water bowls, and a litter box and scratching post that needn't be shared. This room will be your new pet's home turf while the two cats get used to each other's existence.
Take your new cat to your veterinarian first, to be checked for parasites such as ear mites and contagious diseases such as feline leukemia. When you're sure your new pet is healthy, the introductions can begin.
Bring the cat home in a carrier and set him in the room you've prepared. Let your resident cat discover the caged animal, and don't be discouraged by any initial hisses. When the new cat is alone in the room, close the door and let him out of the carrier. If he doesn't want to leave the carrier at first, let him be. Just leave the carrier door open and the cat alone.
Maintain each cat separately for a week or so -- with lots of love and play for both -- and then on a day when you're around to observe, leave the door to the new cat's room open. Above all: Don't force them together. Territory negotiations between cats can be drawn-out and delicate, and you must let them work it out on their own, ignoring the hisses and glares.
Eventually you can encourage them both to play with you, using a cat "fishing pole" or a toy on a string. And slowly feed them in ever-closer proximity.
If you already have two cats who don't get along, treat them as if they've both just arrived. Give each cat his own space and let them slowly work out their territorial disputes. But remember: Some cats will never get along. For these, separate quarters -- such as one upstairs, one downstairs -- may need to become a permanent arrangement.
SIDEBAR
The more boxes, the merrier
One of the most common points of conflict in multi-cat households is the litter box. Some cats don't like to share, and that may force other cats to avoid the litter box altogether.
The rule of thumb behaviorists use: one box per cat, plus one.
Place the litter boxes in different parts of the house, and arrange each so a cat can feel secure but also keep an eye on his surroundings. No one likes to be ambushed while on the john! And don't forget the first rule of litter-box management: Keep 'em clean.
If it sounds like a lot of trouble, consider this: The one sure loser in any litter-box war is the person who cleans up the messes. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Gina Spadafori
Q&A
Nasty dog needs some retraining
Q: I have a 2-year-old Chihuahua. I recently went away for eight months and had him looked after by my parents. My parents are too easy on him, and he seems to like them more.
He doesn't want me going near him. And when I try to stroke him, he growls and shows his teeth and tries to go for me. At first, when he became angry he would get over it within a few minutes and give me a cuddle as an apology, but not anymore. I try to play with him using his toys, but he goes all stiff. I try to give him his treat to like me again and he'll take it from me nicely, but then he doesn't want to know me afterward and starts growling.
What can I do? -- F.A., via e-mail
A: You are not alone. Canine aggression often shows up (and shocks pet owners) for the first time when a dog reaches full maturity at around 2 years of age.
The fact that you were gone for eight months is one factor. Dogs fall into routines once they figure out how to get what they want and need. Your dog has fallen into the routines put in place by your parents. It's unfair to the dog to expect him to understand changes you want, as he may not catch on to what you are trying to accomplish.
If your parents have catered to your dog, then it is predictable, according to canine logic, that your dog has determined that he tells people what to do and they do it. In such circumstances, a dog may begin to insist on human compliance. When humans do not cater to a dog's request, the only way he knows how to insist on what he wants is to show aggression.
We're guessing that in your dog's mind, he thinks he has the right to decide when you start and stop stroking him. If you do not stop stroking him when he thinks he has communicated clearly to you to stop, then he shows his teeth to make sure you get the right message.
What's important for you to know is that your dog is not being a bad dog. He is simply a confused dog.
Chihuahuas have a reputation for aggression. Punishment and harsh corrections only made this behavior worse. We strongly suggest you consider getting help from a veterinary behaviorist to make sure no one gets hurt as your dog learns the new house rules. Ask your veterinarian for a referral.
The earlier you seek professional help, the easier it will be for your dog to relearn how to live as a well-behaved, loving member of a human family.
Your dog needs clear, gentle instructions to help him learn that he is not really in charge. The best way for you to start turning the tables on his perception is to begin a routine of hand-feeding him all his food. During hand-feeding, use the food to lure him into positions such as "sit" and "down," and praise him for these acceptable behaviors. If he shows any sign of aggression, then you and the food disappear. He must learn that you control the food, the rules, the household.
You will need to practice tough love by ignoring your dog for awhile so that he does not think he is in charge of you or that he can get all your attention anytime he wants it. You want him to begin to be motivated to learn how to earn what he wants by learning to do the acceptable behaviors you want. -- Susan and Dr. Rolan Tripp, AnimalBehavior.net.
(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)
PET BUZZ
Pain med could last three weeks
-- Good news for older dogs may be near. Clinical trials have begun at the University of Wisconsin, Madison, School of Veterinary Medicine on a new injectable pain-relieving drug. Veterinary Product News reports the medication has a sustained release ingredient that could fight chronic pain for up to 21 days.
-- Is the woolly mammoth on the comeback trail? At Penn State University, they've deciphered much of the animal's genetic code, a feat they say could allow them to re-create the shaggy, prehistoric beast in as little as a decade. Full-sized mammoths, about 8 to 14 feet tall, became extinct around 10,000 years ago. The Associated Press reports the project marks the first time the DNA of an extinct species has been decoded, and the feat raises the possibility that other ancient animals such as mastodons and saber-toothed tigers might someday walk the Earth again.
ABOUT PET CONNECTION
Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.
On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and "dog cars," and a monthly drawing for more than $1,000 in pet-care prizes. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.
THE SCOOP
Ferret lumps need a veterinarian's check
Lumps and bumps are common on ferrets as they age, but their presence should never be taken for granted. A ferret with a skin mass of any kind needs to see a veterinarian promptly to have the mass evaluated and possibly removed.
The veterinarian will start examining the mass by manipulating it to see its shape and how it's connected to surrounding tissue. The next step is for a needle to be inserted into the lump and some fluid removed for evaluation. This procedure is not very painful and is usually done with the animal awake.
Because lumps in ferrets are often cancerous, the veterinarian will probably recommend that any mass that looks suspicious be removed while the animal is under anesthesia. The mass will then be sent to a pathologist for further identification to help identify proper follow-up treatment. -- Dr. Marty Becker
BY THE NUMBERS
Top names for dogs and cats
The list of top pet names from Veterinary Pet Insurance for 2008 confirms the impression that people names are now more popular than traditional pet names such as Fido and Fluffy. In fact, notes VPI, some of the most popular dog and cat names -- Bella, Chloe, Sophie and Bailey -- also rank among the Social Security Administration's most popular baby names.
Dogs
1. Max
2. Bailey
3. Bella
4. Molly
5. Lucy
6. Buddy
7. Maggie
8. Daisy
9. Sophie
10. Chloe
Cats
1. Max
2. Chloe
3. Tigger
4. Tiger
5. Lucy
6. Smokey
7. Oliver
8. Bella
9. Shadow
10. Charlie
Source: www.petinsurance.com
PET TIP
Keeping snowballs from dogs' paws
The biggest problem with dogs and snow is that it gets stuck in their feet. The dogs try to get the snow out, and by doing so, turn it into a snowball. Then they keep trying to get the snowball out and lick it into an ice ball.
For dogs who have hair growing between their pads, a frequent trim of hair over, around and especially under the foot is the best way to prevent snowballing. Another approach is using a wax product called Mushers Secret (musherssecret.net), which is designed for sled dogs. It helps prevent snowballing and protects pads from salt and de-icers. For dogs who tolerate them, boots work well, too.
Finally, don't neglect to wipe your dog's feet when you come in from walks to remove de-icers, salt and other nasty stuff. -- Phyllis DeGioia
Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.