The first step in turning an adult dog into a reliable house pet is to embrace a key concept: There's no such thing as a "partially" house-trained dog. He either is or he isn't.
Why is realizing this important? Because if you have a dog who is "sometimes" reliable, you have a dog who doesn't understand what's required of him, probably because no one taught him properly in the first place. Punishing your pet isn't fair, and it isn't the answer: You have to go back to square one and teach him properly. No shortcuts here.
Before you start training, though, you must be sure that what you have really is a behavior problem and not a physical problem. This is especially true with a dog who has been reliable in the past. You won't be able to train your pet if he's struggling with an illness. So check with your veterinarian first for a complete checkup.
If you've ruled out medical problems, house-training an adult dog uses the same principles as house-training a puppy, except you have to be even more diligent because you need to do some untraining, too. And a lot of cleaning: You must thoroughly clean any soiled area with enzymatic cleaner (available through pet-supply outlets) to eliminate the smell that invites repeat business.
You'll need to teach your dog what's right before you can correct him for what's wrong. To do this, spend a couple of weeks ensuring that he has nothing but successes by never giving him the opportunity to make a mistake.
Here's how:
-- Leash him to you in the house so you can monitor his every move during his training period. If he starts to mess, tell him "no," take him outside, and give him a command for going (I use "hurry up" with my dogs). Then praise him for doing right, so he starts to understand what you want.
-- Put him in a crate whenever he's not on leash with you. It's not unfair during training to leave him in a crate for four or five hours at a stretch -- assuming, of course, that he's getting his regular daily exercise.
-- Take him outside first thing in the morning, as soon as you get home from work and just before you go to bed (when you put him in his crate for the night). Always remember to give your "go" command, and praise him when he does as you wish. I find that people never seem shy about punishing their dogs, but too often forget to praise them -- they take it for granted the dog should do the right thing. Never, ever forget the praise!
If you've been consistent, your dog likely will get a good idea of what's expected of him within a couple of weeks, and you can start to give him a little freedom. Don't let him have the run of the house yet. Keep his area small and let him earn the house, room by room, as he proves his understanding of the house rules.
Accidents happen. If you catch him in the act, tell him "no," take him outside, and give him the chance to set things right. Give your "go" command, and praise him if he does. Clean up the mess inside promptly and thoroughly, so he won't feel inclined to refresh his smell there. Don't punish him for any messes you find.
If you aren't catching him, you're not keeping close enough tabs on him. Go back to the crate and leash, and start over.
If you continue to have problems, ask your veterinarian for a referral to a veterinary behaviorist. One-on-one assistance can pinpoint the problems in your training regimen and get you both on the right track.
SIDEBAR
Small dogs, big problems
A St. Bernard who messes indoors is a much bigger problem than a Chihuahua who does the same, which is why some people just never get serious enough when it comes to house-training a tiny dog.
Consistency and persistence are important, but so is understanding the special challenges that sometimes make little dogs difficult to house-train, even with the best of intentions. Some additional tips for the little guys include:
-- Provide more frequent potty breaks. Little dogs haven't as much "capacity" as big dogs do and may need to be taken out more often.
-- Make the area where you want your dog to relieve himself inviting, comfortable and safe. Look at the world from the point of view of a 10-pound dog. What may seem like a lawn that needs mowing to you may look like an impenetrable jungle to a little dog. A big yard, or one with even a small amount of snow, can likewise make a tiny dog feel insecure about his surroundings, and no one likes to feel insecure at such times! Consider an indoor potty area if you can't provide an appropriate outdoor one. A handful of companies now make "litter boxes" for small dogs.
-- Shrink the territory indoors. Your home may seem so big to a little dog that he thinks the next room is the next county and is OK to use as a potty. Keep tabs on your little dog during house-training, and don't give him the run of the house.
Q&A
Dog park not for biting hound
Q: I take offense at your stand that people with dogs who get into fights shouldn't take them into dog parks. I have every right to be there with my dog, especially since I try to go when no other dogs are there. My dog doesn't always fight -- it's only when some other dog agitates him. He's completely reliable with people, by the way. -- E.L., via e-mail
A: Some people do take their dog-aggressive animals into off-leash parks, but only after slipping a comfortable box muzzle on the animal to prevent biting. This might be a responsible solution for your pet, but of course it doesn't guarantee your dog won't get hurt if a fight breaks out.
The better option is to find alternate ways to exercise your pet. Whether you like to admit it or not, taking your problem dog to an off-leash park is risky. The potential for injury -- human and canine alike -- is just too high.
Yes, dog parks are public facilities, but they do need to operate with some basic rules and understandings. Taking dogs there who are known to fight with others just doesn't make sense.
Ending awful habit
Q: We adopted a shelter dog and added her to our household, which contains two middle-age cats (sisters). The transition has gone much better than we expected. The dog doesn't chase the cats, and while the cats aren't thrilled about the dog, they grudgingly accept her. We have one problem, however, that has us both frustrated and disgusted: The dog likes to eat what the cats leave in the litter box. We've checked this out on the Internet, so we know it's pretty common. Do you have an answer for it? -- J.S., via e-mail
A: I get this question at least once a week -- and usually a lot more often. Hard as it is to believe, feline feces are so attractive to many dogs that in most cases the only "cure" for this disgusting habit is restricting the dog's access. Suggestions include:
-- Covered litter boxes. You can find litter boxes with lids at almost any pet-supply store, and this might fix the problem. Cats who have asthma shouldn't use them, some cats won't use them, and some dogs are strong enough (or small enough) to get to the box anyway. But for some households, a covered box will solve the problem.
-- Change the litter box location. Make any change slowly, so as not to discourage litter box use by your cats. But it doesn't hurt to experiment with such things as moving the litter box to a location above the dog's reach.
-- Provide barriers. One way is to rig the door to the room with the litter box so it stays open wide enough for the cat but not for the dog. Another possibility is to cut a cat-sized hole through the door to the litter box room. For a small dog able to fit through any opening a cat can, a baby gate is an alternative: The cat can jump over, but the dog cannot. You might also be able to put the box in an unused bathtub, if your dog is small enough.
-- Experiment with what works, and realize punishment doesn't work when the reward is as wonderful (to your dog) as the litter box contents. This is one case in which training the people in the house to make adjustments works much better than trying to train the dog.
(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)
THE SCOOP
Don't overlook the little budgie
The birds commonly known as parakeets are more properly called budgerigars, or just plain budgies. That's because although all budgies are parakeets, not all parakeets are budgies. Many other kinds of parakeets are available as pets, including the Quaker, grey-cheeked, ring-necked and canary-winged.
Budgies are by far the most popular parakeets and perhaps the most taken for granted. Because of their small price tag and easy availability, they are often treated as a throw-away bird -- easily purchased, easily disposed of, easily replaced. This attitude keeps people from valuing these birds for their affectionate personalities and appreciating them as lovely little pets. If worked with, some budgies even become very good talkers, albeit with tiny little voices.
Budgies are commonly found in two varieties, differentiated by body type: the narrow American and the huskier English. The blue and green colors many people remember from their first childhood budgies are still available, but so are a wide range of other colors and markings.
ON THE WEB
Sometimes, silly is just the ticket
With so much sadness in the news lately, I was delighted to be pointed by friends to a couple of pet Web sites that exist just to celebrate the silly. Because ... well, just because we all need to be silly sometimes.
The first is Cats in Sinks (catsinsinks.com). The title pretty much sums it up: image after image (more than 2000 at this writing) of cats in sinks. If nothing else, it serves as reassurance that if your own cat enjoys taking a nap in the sink (the round bathroom kind seems to be universally preferred), there's nothing at all abnormal about it. Or at least, nothing uncommon.
While many cats choose to sleep in sinks, there's nothing voluntary about a dog being in a bee costume. If a dog's in any kind of costume at all, it's because some human thought it would be cute. Fortunately, dogs are generally gracious about tolerating our silliness.
Bee Dogs (beedogs.com) is relatively new and doesn't have quite as many images as Cats in Sinks. But the potential is surely there, especially with Halloween at hand.
PET TIP
For safety's sake: Keeping cats indoors
The best time to convert a free-roaming cat to life indoors is when you move into a new home. A cat can't miss territory he has never explored, after all. But even if you're not planning to move, you can still convert your cat.
The change requires resolve on your part and a determination to provide your cat with everything he needs to be happy indoors -- good food and fresh water, a clean litter box, a scratching post, toys and, most important, your companionship.
Does such a change come easily? Probably not, experts say.
Cats are highly territorial, and the day you reduce your cat's territory by cutting him off from the outdoors is the day you're going to start hearing about it -- lots. Your cat will be astonished at your stupidity at first: "Hey, you! I can't believe you're so dumb that you forgot how to open the door!" Later, he's positively outraged at your failure to respond: "The door! The door! Pay attention! I want something."
Don't give in, no matter what. If you allow the insistent meows and pointed stares to wear you down to the point of opening the door, you've taught your cat a lesson you'd rather he didn't know: "All I need to do is put up a fuss, and I get what I want." If you try to keep him inside again, he's going to be even more obnoxious about getting out.
Be patient but firm. Dissuade him from the door with a shot from a spray bottle, and keep him occupied with games and attention. If he likes catnip, get a fresh supply to rub on his toys and scratching post. If you do not open the door, the noisy demands will decrease and eventually end.
Within a couple of weeks, your cat will start to settle into his new routines, and you'll no longer need to worry about the dangers he faces outdoors.
PET Rx
Most pets do better without sedation
Few beliefs are as widely spread and commonly held as the one that incorrectly suggests pets be tranquilized for an airline flight. That might be because many of us would prefer spending our time in the air asleep, and we figure out pets would prefer the same. Flying is stressful, and it stands to reason that tranquilizers take the edge off a scary experience.
But the fact is that tranquilizers increase the risk of flying for pets. That's because the medication impairs the efficient functioning of a body, at a time when such efficiency can be essential to keeping an animal alive.
Tranquilizers are not routinely recommended for most flight-bound pets. If you think your animal is the exception, discuss the issue with your veterinarian.
(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)
Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.
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