SCAREDY CAT
Some cats need to be taught how to enjoy being petted
One of my friends has a cat who adores her so much that he follows when she walks the family dog. A notorious cat-about-town, he stops his prowling at exactly the time his beloved human should be coming home from work. If she's home, he's home, and usually within 20 feet of her.
But his adoration doesn't stop him from grabbing her arm while she's petting him, digging in his claws and delivering a not-so-gentle bite.
My friend is quite certain her cat is crazy. I know he's just one of those cats who don't handle stimulation well. The good news: Her cat thinks she's the center of the universe. The better news: The cat can be trained to treat her that way, too.
Both genetics and social factors contribute to how likely a cat is to bite or claw while being petted. Some cats are born with short fuses; others are made that way (or made worse) through a lack of early socialization or proper training in their kittenhoods. That's why it's important to never let a kitten come to believe fingers are for chewing on, even in play. Redirect your kitten's playful energy to toys instead. And never hit a kitten or cat for biting, since you'll make it more likely, not less, that your pet will strike faster in fear and self-defense the next time.
Natural activity levels also play a part in how much petting a cat will tolerate. Cats from large-breed backgrounds (think Maine coon) are generally mellow in temperament, willing to sit quietly while being petted. So-called Oriental breeds or mixes (think Siamese or Burmese) are usually more interested in being on the go.
But no matter how hair-trigger the setting on your cat's attack mode, you can work to increase your pet's tolerance for petting by paying close attention to his body language as you slowly increase the amount of time during which he'll calmly accept your attention.
You should also be aware that some places are more sensitive than others. For a highly reactive cat, restrict your caresses at first to behind the ears, under the chin or the base of the tail. A long stroke down the back is too much for some kitties, and you're really taking chances when you decide to tickle your cat's tummy. The cats who enjoy it are well-outnumbered by the cats who'll seek to stop it with teeth and claws.
Work to build your cat's tolerance to touch over time. When you pick your cat up for a petting session, don't surprise him. Come up on him slowly and pick him up gently, making sure his whole body is supported with a hand under his chest and one beneath his legs.
Pet him in less-reactive areas on his body, watching for the first sign of a tail twitch. When you get that early warning sign, stop petting and let your cat leave if he wants to. The idea is to work up to just short of the point where your pet becomes uncomfortable and then stop, so you can gradually increase his tolerance for petting. For some cats, the addition of treats during petting can also help the reconditioning process.
If you miss the signs and end up in your cat's non-affectionate embrace, just freeze. Providing no resistance will help calm your cat so he'll just let go, usually in a few seconds. If you fight back or physically punish your cat, you are more likely to get bitten or scratched in the short run, and damage your relationship with your pet in the long run.
Be patient, and be satisfied with small improvements as you go. As any cat lover will tell you, teaching your cat to tolerate petting is well worth the effort -- for both of you.
Q&A
Weigh options before deciding on a trainer
Q: We are having some behavioral problems with our 18-month-old boxer, and we are considering sending her to a two-week course for training. What are your thoughts on training dogs in this manner, removed from her owners and her regular environment? -- J.D., via e-mail
A: The answer depends on what "behavior problems" are troubling you. Will the difficulty you're having be solved if your dog is taught the basic commands -- sit, down, stay, come? Or are the problems ones your dog may not exhibit in a kennel environment, such as counter-cruising, destructiveness, aggression or separation anxiety?
If it's basic obedience you want from your dog, then, yes, a couple of weeks away with a reputable trainer can be very helpful. The caveat: You need to be willing to learn how to handle your dog when she returns home, and commit to keeping up the training. Otherwise, you're pretty much wasting your money.
If it's any behavior issue other than general obedience commands, I think you're better off working with a trainer or behaviorist who'll meet with your family in the home, observe both the dog and how you interact with her, and set up a program for you all to follow.
Either way, don't hire a trainer unless you are comfortable with his or her methods, and comfortable, as well, that the trainer will tailor those methods to the personality of your dog. Dog-training was once almost solely reliant on hard-nosed methods derived from the military; recent years have seen a swing to motivational training based on work with performing animals in such environments as marine parks. As a result, you'll find all kinds of trainers with all kinds of methods out there today.
The trainer you choose should be able to explain which methods she or he believes to be best for your dog, and why. I also like to see certification from a dog-trainer's association, which shows an interest in keeping up on current theory and techniques. Finally, check references and, if you're leaving your dog, check the trainer's facilities.
ON THE WEB
Site unleashes dog park news
More than 1,000 dog parks can be found in the United States and Canada, according to the Dogpark Web site (www.dogpark.com). That's a nifty bit of news and reason to celebrate. And you'll find lots more on this site, such as information on dog care and health, tips on toys and games, and features on dogs and their people.
Dogpark.com even has a store for picking up necessary dog-park equipment, such as the Chuck-it, which allows for slobber-free tennis ball throwing. The site also maintains an e-mail list for discussions of dog-park advocacy, design and etiquette.
PET SAVE
Toys add spice to pets' lives
Toys are not optional equipment for caged pets. The life of these pets can be very dull, and toys help keep the mind and body happy. Some of the best toys for small pets can be had for little or no money at all.
For rabbits and guinea pigs, or cockatiels and other small parrots, the cores from toilet paper and paper towels are wonderful to play with and destroy, as are fiber place mats from any import store. Toy keys made of hard plastic are also popular with these pets, and you can usually find them at a better price in the baby section than the pet section.
Cat-toy freebies include the retainer ring off the caps of plastic milk jugs, along with champagne corks, empty film containers, and empty cardboard boxes or paper shopping bags.
PET Rx
Any bird injury can be serious
If your bird is bitten or clawed by a cat or dog, you need to get veterinary help right away. Bite or claw wounds are potentially deadly to birds, even if the injury appears minor.
Dogs and cats are able predators, and their jaws are quite capable not only of piercing the skin of a bird but also of crushing internal organs and breaking bones. Even a bird who seems to have escaped an attack with a small bite or scratch can fall victim to infection. Birds with no visible signs of injury can still end up dead without veterinary intervention.
If your bird is attacked, contact your veterinarian right away. Your bird may need to be treated for shock, infection or internal injuries, and very likely should be started on antibiotics as soon as possible.
(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network, an online service for veterinary professionals. To find a VIN member veterinarian, visit www.vetquest.com.)
THE SCOOP
How to keep the dog fur from flying
Is there any way to tame the dog-hair monster? You bet! With regular grooming and a few well-chosen tools, you can keep shedding to a minimum.
The amount of shedding varies widely from breed to breed. German shepherds, for example, are prolific year-round shedders, while poodles seem to lose very little fur at all. Seasonal shedding is most pronounced in double-coated breeds such as collies and malamutes, who lose copious amounts of fur from their soft undercoats in spring and fall.
If you have a purebred, or a dog that has the characteristics of a purebred, seek out breed-specific grooming advice from your breeder, a breed reference book or breed-specific Web site when it comes to choosing grooming tools and learning how to use them.
Seasonal shedding can be tamed with a tool that's a loop of metal with teeth on one side, attached to a comfortable handle. Available from different manufacturers, the shedding loop tool should cost less than $15. Pricier but extremely effective is the Mars Coat King ($25-$40, depending on size), which strips out undercoat and keeps things manageable for dogs with wire-haired coats or those of medium length, as well as the double-coated variety. A loop tool should be available at any pet store, but the Coat King will likely have to be ordered from a specialty catalog such as Cherrybrook (www.cherrybrook.com; 800- 524-0820) or J-B Wholesale Pet Supplies (www.jbpet.com; 800-526-0388).
Grooming tools will stay sharper and last longer if you bathe your dog before working on the coat. Mats should be removed before bathing. Large ones should be cut out, while smaller ones can be gently teased apart with a comb after corn starch is worked into them.
No matter what the breed or mix of dog, shedding is normal, but some heavy shedding can be a sign of health problems. Skin allergies and skin parasites may trigger shedding, and poor nutrition or other health problems can also be a cause of coat problems.
Become familiar with your pet's normal pattern of shedding, and ask your veterinarian for advice if coat condition seems too dull, or you notice excessive hair loss.
Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.
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