Not too long ago, the choke-chain collar was the dominant tool in dog training. You got a dog, you got a choke collar. Maybe you went to obedience class, where you had a chance of learning how to put on and use the collar correctly. Maybe you never learned, hung the dog license on one of the collar rings, and spent the rest of your dog's life walking him with the chain cruelly pulled tight and the animal gasping for air.
Can a choke-chain be humane? Yes, if used properly. The problem is, it's almost impossible for most people to learn or remember which way to put it on, and harder still to develop the skills of light touch and good timing that are required to use the collar effectively. A tool used improperly will never work right, which is why many trainers now recommend using pinch collars or head halters.
The pinch collar -- also called a prong collar -- is made of metal links, with blunt prongs evenly spaced along its length. With a pull of the leash, the collar tightens, pressing the prongs into the dog's skin and getting his attention in a hurry.
There's no doubt the collar is effective when used correctly, especially on strong dogs with well-muscled necks. But because of its appearance, the pinch collar often draws nasty looks and comments on its apparent cruelty. In a way, this is unfortunate. For despite its looks, the pinch collar can be less cruel than the more popular choke-chain collar, especially in the hands of people who don't know how to use the latter. That's because a properly fitted pinch collar cannot be tightened beyond the point of pushing the prongs against the skin, unlike the choke collar, which has no limits -- the harder you or the dog pulls, the tighter it gets.
The pinch collar is easier to put on properly, will not tighten beyond a predetermined point and gets the message across efficiently to even the strongest dog. All of which makes it a good choice for some dogs and some owners, as well as a more humane choice than an incorrectly used choke collar.
The other choice for large dogs, a head halter, has image problems, too, because it looks to many people like a muzzle. When someone sees a 90-pound German shepherd wearing what looks like a muzzle, all the discussion in the world isn't likely to convince that person the dog's not a vicious killer.
But, again, appearance can be deceiving. Head halters such as the Gentle Leader are touted by many as the humane alternative to pinch or choke collars, and rightfully so. They work on the principle of "where the head goes, the body follows," and may make handling a large dog possible for small adults or even children.
With a halter, a tug on the leash puts pressure around the muzzle, and the dog has no choice but to follow his head, which is following you. Is a pinch collar or head halter (or for that matter, the more commonplace choke-chain or buckle collar) right for your out-of-control dog? The best way to find out is to talk to a trainer or behaviorist, who can not only help you make the right choice but also show you the right way to use what you buy and train your dog to make walks the pleasant experience they should be for you both.
PETS ON THE WEB
Yes, the days are slowly getting longer, and winter is easing up its grip. Now is a great time to start a walking program that will benefit you and your dog. But don't step out in early morning or early evening without being sure you can be seen -- with reflective clothing for both you and your dog. Since my dogs are both solid black, I'm very much aware that they are hard to see at twilight and nearly invisible at night.
That's why when we walk in less-than-bright conditions I wear a reflective vest, and they wear bandanas from GlowDog (www.glowdog.com). At $6.95 for a small, $8.50 for a large, the products seem a small investment with a big payoff in safety. The site offers lots of other choices: vests for dogs, leashes, collars and more. You can also call 1-888-GLOWDOG to order products or request a catalog.
THE SCOOP
Did you know that cats can reproduce before they're hardly old enough to grow out of their adorably kittenish behavior? Because cats are such easy and prolific breeders, warmer weather always brings more kittens than there can be homes for, with a single cat being able to produce multiple litters until the weather gets cold again. It's an annual tragedy that can be prevented with spaying or neutering.
Yes, you hear it a million times, from humane organizations, from animal-control agencies, and from your veterinarian and veterinary associations. The people who are responsible for killing the "extras" know that many times a litter of kittens is the result of procrastination -- a pet owner who meant to make that appointment but waited too long. So don't wait. Get your cat altered, right away.
QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK
Q: I have called everyone I can think of, but each person tells me something different. Two veterinarians in the same office can't even make up their minds. I need to know what type of tree branches can be put in safely with my two green iguanas. I don't want to hurt my babies, so please help this confused mom. -- E.I., via e-mail
A: Most woods are fine -- pine, citrus, maple or manzanita. According to my favorite iguana reference, Melissa Kaplan's "Iguanas for Dummies" ($19.99, Hungry Minds), you do have to treat branches before putting them into your pet's enclosure, to make sure they're clean and bug-free before bringing them into your house.
First, strip the branches of small twigs and loose bark. Next, soak them in a solution of 1/3 cup bleach to a gallon of water for eight hours or so, making sure the solution gets into every hole and chip on the branch. Rinse thoroughly with lots of fresh water. Then let them dry in the sun and fresh air for a couple of days. Alternately, you can bake small branches in a 200- to 250-degree oven for a couple of hours.
Few veterinarians know much about exotic pets, including reptiles and birds. There's just not enough time in veterinary school to fit all but the basic information about these pets, and there's not much economic advantage in taking time to study them after graduation. The good veterinarians will be open about what they don't know and will do some research on your pet's behalf, consulting with specialists. Alternately, you may get referred to a veterinarian who does take a special interest in exotic pets.
If you can find a veterinarian who has an interest in reptiles, you're in good shape. Failing that, get yourself a good reference book like Kaplan's, or bookmark her Web site, www.anapsid.org. Your iggie will thank you!
Q: I read your column on dog-park manners with interest, and I have a problem it didn't address. I think my dog is a nerdy geek. He just doesn't seem to know when other dogs are playing, or he gets fearful and testy when others just want to play. It seems as if he doesn't "speak dog" and is thus always out of step with the other dogs. He's aggressive toward puppies, afraid of the friendly dogs, and comes on like gangbusters with the shy and fearful.
He means well, I think. He's a neutered, 75-pound yellow Lab I rescued from the pound, and he has lots of "issues" that he has slowly but surely been getting over. Any suggestions? -- L.J., via e-mail
A: Dogs learn to "speak dog" from their mom and their littermates. That's why knowledgeable breeders keep litters together until they're at least 7 weeks of age.
Your dog may have been taken from his mom and littermates a couple of weeks too early, missing out on this important developmental stage. Working with a trainer using positive methods will improve your dog's obedience and raise his confidence. That may help him act better in public, but it may not ever make him dog-park material.
While dog parks can be great fun, for some dogs they're just too overwhelming. But sometimes things can work out. Shy dogs, for example, can be taken to the park at off-hours, when there aren't so many other dogs around. These dogs may be able to learn to enjoy the experience as their confidence builds.
Aggressive dogs are another issue entirely. I don't recommend taking a dog with aggressive tendencies to a dog park -- it's too big a risk. Accept that your dog isn't dog-park material, and give him plenty of other opportunities for exercise. He'll probably be less stressed without being forced into a situation he finds confusing and uncomfortable.
Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.
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