Cruising garage sales years ago, I ran across a woman plucking tired houseplants from decorative containers she intended to sell. The friend who was with me took pity on a discarded vine and took it home wrapped in a damp paper towel.
She pinched back its damaged parts, planted it in a new pot, and today that vine thrives in her bright kitchen, its limbs running along the top of her cabinets for nearly 20 feet. Even more amazing: That plant, like many others, shares its home with cats who seem to believe the destruction of everything green is part of their reason for being.
Over the years, my friend has cared for plenty of houseplants and cats. Her secrets to success: Give the cats some plants of their own and make the other plants less attractive. And don't sweat the occasional chewed leaves or knocked-over pot. It's good advice, and the best way to keep both your cats and your houseplants happy.
Give your cat some plants for nibbling, some for sniffing and some for play. For chewing, always keep a pot of tender grass seedlings -- rye, alfalfa and wheat -- growing in a sunny spot. Parsley and thyme are herbs that many cats enjoy smelling and chewing, and both can be grown indoors. Try some different varieties, especially with the parsley.
Catnip is a natural for any cat garden, but the herb is so appealing to some cats that they just won't leave it alone. Keep seedlings out of reach of your pet, or the plant may never get a chance to reach maturity. Once you've got a mature plant, snip off pieces to give your cat, stuff into toys or rub on cat trees. Catnip can't hurt your pet, so let him get as blissed out as he wants. Don't be surprised, however, if catnip has no effect at all: The ability to enjoy the herb is genetic, and some cats do not possess the "catnip gene."
Valerian is another plant that some cats find blissful, so be sure to plant some of this herb, too. When your cat has his own plants, you can work on keeping him away from yours. Plants on the ground or on low tables are the easiest targets for chewing, digging or knocking asunder, so make your houseplants less accessible to the bored and wandering cat. Put plants up high, or better yet, hang them.
For the plants that you can't move out of harm's way, make them less appealing by coating leaves with something your cat finds disagreeable. Cat-discouragers include Bitter Apple, a nasty-tasting substance available at any pet-supply store, or Tabasco sauce from any grocery store. Whenever you find what your cat doesn't like, keep reapplying it to enforce the point.
Once your cat learns the leaves aren't so tasty, you can teach him that dirt isn't for digging and pots aren't for tipping. Pot your plants in heavy, wide-bottomed containers and cover the soil of the problem plants with rough decorative rock. Foil and waxed paper are less attractive deterrents, and I don't like to recommend them as much as decorative rock because you're going to get tired of looking at that foil.
You can also deter your cat from approaching pots by using carpet runners around the plants, with the pointy-side up. Commercial products such as the Scat Mat also work well, giving off a small electric charge (like a carpet shock) to the pet who steps where he shouldn't.
Whatever tool or combination of tools you choose, remember that the most important ones are patience and compromise. Give your cat the greens he wants and make the rest less attractive to him. A lush indoor garden is within the reach of any animal lover.
I've always envied my friend her skills with plants -- my own houseplants die with frightening regularity, aside from one very stubborn and grand ficus tree -- but I share her dedication to compromise for the good of her pets. It's the key to any successful relationship, after all.
PETS ON THE WEB
While most people know that dogs have long been used to pull sleds -- an occupation now turned popular canine sport -- few realize that in many places dogs once pulled carts as well, working as sort of a poor man's horse.
Around the turn of the last century, cars and world wars doomed some breeds developed to pull carts, but many breeds with drafting roots remain today, some because their fanciers refused to let them die out, and others because the dogs also served as farm and home protection.
Today, carting is making a bit of a comeback, with fanciers of these ancient breeds fitting them with harnesses and training them to reclaim their heritage for the fun of it. The Carting With Your Dog Web site (www.cartingwithyourdog.com) is a good place to check out what these folks are up to, with plenty of pictures, articles on training and outfitting a dog to pull a cart or wagon, and links to equipment suppliers.
THE SCOOP
Some plants are simply too dangerous to be in any household that includes pets, even if you're pretty sure your pet isn't a chewer. A good list of toxic plants is available on the Web site of the Animal Poison Control Center (www.aspca.org/apcc), and I've also put one in the references section of my book "Cats for Dummies," which is available in many libraries. (One plant you won't find on either list is that holiday favorite, the poinsettia, commonly and incorrectly thought to be lethal to pets.) Remove those plants on the toxic list and replace them with more pet-friendly varieties.
QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK
Q: I have two cats (2-year-old littermate sisters) who love the outdoors. I do not let them out, but I am trying to train them on harnesses and leashes so I can take them outside safely. I finally got them used to wearing the harness, but when I put the leash on, they won't budge. Is there a book that will give me pointers on cat-leash training? Thanks for any help. I want my girls to be happy. -- D.B., via e-mail
A: You never walk a cat like a dog. With cats, it's more like they walk themselves, and you just sort of follow. Train them not by making them walk, but rather by having them drag the leash (in the house, under supervision) while you reward them with treats.
Or give up on the leash idea entirely. Since your girls like the outdoors, you might try offering them a taste of it by giving them access to a screened porch or an otherwise secure area. You might also add a perching area to the windowsill, leaving the screened area open in good weather.
Q: At the pet store where we buy our bird's food, antibiotics are also for sale. Would it be a good idea to keep some on hand in case our bird gets sick? -- D.F., via e-mail
A: Antibiotics are one of the outstanding contributions of modern medicine and have saved countless lives of both the human and animal variety. But we have become so comfortable with these medicines and their frequent usage that we sometimes forget they are powerful drugs that should be used with care.
And yet, many bird lovers respond to any sign of illness by dosing -- and often overdosing -- their pets with antibiotics commonly available at pet-supply stores (and often labeled for other pets, such as fish). This sort of treatment for your sick bird is a bad idea for several reasons.
First, if your bird has a viral or fungal infection, an antibiotic will not help. And in the case of a fungal infection, it may even worsen your bird's condition.
Second, not all antibiotics are the same. They each have their target bacteria, and they may little affect any bacteria they're not designed to combat as well as bacteria that are resistant to them.
Finally, regular use of antibiotics may hurt your bird's immune system and may lead to the development of antibiotic-resistant strains of bacteria that will be hard to stamp out even with the "right" medication.
When your bird is sick, your time and money would be better spent getting an accurate diagnosis and targeted treatment from an avian-experienced veterinarian.
Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.
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