Sometimes it seems as if I've spent my whole life in a crusade to get people to stop using choke chains as an everyday collar for their dogs. And sometimes it seems a futile effort, since not a day goes by that I don't see a dog with a choke chain for a collar, the license hanging from the ring as proof that the animal wears the deadly chain all the time.
In the past I've argued that the choke-chain collar is only for walking and training your dog, and you put your dog at grave risk if you leave a chain collar on an unsupervised dog. That's because the ring of the chain has been known to get caught, even on the tooth of another dog in play. When a dog is snagged, his natural instinct is to pull away, and that causes the collar to tighten. The more panicked he gets, the more he pulls, the more the collar tightens. The end result, you can well imagine.
Your dog should wear a collar and tags for his own safety. And for safety, that should be a collar with a buckle or snap holding it together -- not, not, NOT a choke chain.
OK, so that's what I've always said. Today I'm going to say something more on the subject of choke-chain collars. When you take the chain off your dog -- as soon as possible, please -- don't put it aside for training or for walks. Just throw the darn thing away.
The choke-chain collar is an effective training tool when used correctly. And it's not cruel when used correctly. The problem is, the choke-chain collar is rarely used correctly. In a lifetime of sharing my life with dogs, training dogs and writing about dogs, I can count on one hand the number of times I've seen the average dog lover using a choke chain correctly -- and I'd still have two or three fingers left over for counting.
There are only two ways to put on a choke-chain collar: with the moving end over the dog's neck (right), or under the dog's neck (wrong). By the simplest law of averages you'd think folks would get them on right half the time, but all I ever see is the wrong way. When the moving part of the chain comes from under the dog's neck, the chain doesn't release easily when the leash is slackened. Since the collar's usefulness as a training tool relies on a quick snap-and-release action, a collar that's put on wrong is useless at best, and cruel at worst.
But even if the collar's put on right, people still manage to use it wrong. The collar is meant to be loose at all times except for the occasional split-second tightening to correct a dog's behavior. And yet most collars are tight all the time, as gasping dogs in coke chains drag their owners down the street.
I realize it may be hard to give up the choke chain. It's an ingrained part of our consciousness, one of the things we buy automatically for our dogs -- food bowls, a leash, a choke chain. Many pet lovers may not even know an alternative exists. But it's out there.
Primary among them, especially for people who have trouble walking their dogs, would be a head halter such as the Gentle Leader. Take the basic idea of a horse halter (where the head goes the body will follow), and add a couple of features just for dogs. Head halters are not muzzles. They work through pressure to the back of the neck and top of the muzzle, spots used by canine mothers to transmit the message of "I'm the boss" to their pups.
If you can't walk your dog without choking him and running the risk of dislocating your own shoulder, it's time for a change. Throw out the chain, and the danger and confusion that comes with it, and go for the alternative that's both safer and more effective. Get a head halter for your pet. Your dog and your shoulder will both be grateful.
PETS ON THE WEB
Alley Cat Allies has been working for a decade to change the way we think about and deal with feral cats. The group promotes stabilizing feral populations through trap-neuter-return programs. As do many feral-cat advocates, the group argues that maintaining stable, nonbreeding colonies of cats is a more humane and cost-effective way of dealing with the problem than the constant effort people expend to exterminate wild cats.
The coalition's Web site (www.alleycat.org) is a resource for those who feel the same way, with information on why the trap-neuter-return program is a viable solution, along with tips on how to set up such a program in your community. Especially valuable are articles on taming wild-born kittens and relocating cat colonies.
THE SCOOP
Although growing constantly, the beak of a normal pet bird does not need to be trimmed. Your bird keeps her beak at the proper length with normal chewing. An overgrown beak is frequently a sign of illness. Contrary to what some bird books still preach, don't accept "beak trims" as a routine health-care measure -- they're not. The bird who gets routine "beak trims" instead of proper medical attention may have an attractive beak, but is at risk of succumbing to the disease that is causing the abnormal growth in the first place. Many of these underlying problems can be corrected if addressed early and accurately. See a veterinarian who specializes in avian medicine if your bird is having beak problems.
QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK
Q: I have been researching the Staffordshire bull terrier breed for about a month now, and I like what I see so far. I was wondering if you could give me any reasons why I should or should not buy this breed. -- S.S., via e-mail
A: The bull and terrier breeds -- the American Staffordshire terrier, bull terrier, miniature bull terrier and Staffordshire bull terrier are the American Kennel Club versions -- have come in for some bad press as "pit bulls" in recent years. That's a shame, because all these dogs, pit bulls included, were considered to be stable pets for generations.
What prompted the change is that pit bull-type dogs became popular with certain people who broadened the dogs' traditional aggression toward other dogs, producing animals that would bite people. Couple this trait with these dogs' awesome physical power and you've got an animal that justifiably should be feared.
If you buy from a reputable show-breeder, however, and socialize and train your puppy, you'll end up with a calm, sensible dog with an easy-care coat who provides good companionship for a family. The downside? These breeds are not as likely as, say, a golden retriever to be overly fond of other dogs, and you'll also be constantly dealing with people who are afraid of your "pit bull."
The Staffordshire bull terrier is on the small end of the scale for bull and terrier breeds, 14 to 16 inches at the shoulder. But like all of these dogs, they pack a lot of power into the package. The Staffy bull is my own personal favorite of this group, an even-tempered, good-natured and wholly reliable spark plug of a dog. I sat on the floor with one at the Westminster Kennel Club dog show in February and was covered in kisses in less than a minute. What a sweetheart!
If you do end up with one of these breeds, remember that you have an even higher responsibility than other dog owners to have your pet be a good citizen. As the owner of the bull and terrier breed, it falls to you to help improve the public's bad impression of any dog who resembles a "pit bull."
Q: I liked your advice on keeping kibble available for cats at all times and giving them a small amount of canned food at room temperature once a day.
Having had many cats over the years, I've discovered that they most often get hit by cars after dark, and that most of their fighting occurs during their dawn and dusk patrols. Keeping cats in the house at those times cuts down on problems, and the wet food treat is a great motivator and training aid.
Buster, who is currently my only cat, knows that he should show up just before the sun goes down, then he will get his tablespoon of wet food. He'll then be in for the night. I hope to keep my next cat(s) indoors always, but this system is a workable compromise. Keep up the interesting columns! -- F.R., via e-mail
A: I always get nasty mail when I say this, but the indoor-only life isn't possible for every cat and every cat lover. I always recommend that people have indoor cats and that they convert their indoor-outdoor cats. But I'm also aware that anything to make the life of a cat with outdoor access safer is well worth mentioning.
Your suggestion is an excellent one, and can save the life of many a free-roaming cat. My other suggestion for anyone who lets a cat roam is to make sure the animal is neutered and kept current on all vaccinations, including rabies.
Another way to keep your cat more safe is a fence designed to keep cats in the yard. (Yes, it's possible!) The San Diego Feral Cat Coalition has information on its Web site at www.feralcat.com/fence.html. The information is from the Alley Cat Allies group, but I couldn't find it on the Web site anymore. If you don't have Internet access for the San Diego group, call the ACA for more information at (202) 667-3630, or write to them at 1801 Belmont Road NW, Suite 201, Washington, D.C. 20009-5164.
Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.
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