DEAR MISS MANNERS: I am not a very big fan of most wines, but I do enjoy port. When I go out to eat, is it appropriate to order a dessert wine like port or sherry during the main course?
Also, if it is all right to drink port with dinner, how do I politely explain to the waiter that I know what I am ordering? I've had two waiters tell me that I should select something else for dinner, even though I was quite certain of what I wanted.
GENTLE READER: Traditions about food pairings still carry some force in formal events or private parties where the complete meal is selected by the host. They have little or no relevance in restaurants.
You will get a funny look if you order both a pasta and a meat course in Italian restaurants in the United States, where both dishes have been apportioned -- and priced -- as stand-alone dinners. But no one will think twice if you order three appetizers and call it a meal.
If you are more than 4 years old, Miss Manners does, however, caution against ordering dessert first, as you may be given the check when you are just getting started. The waiter can be thanked for his suggestion, but assured that you know what you want.