health

A Very Green (and Greedy) Salad

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | May 16th, 2022

Tabbouleh is a bulgur salad; in fact, it’s also a very green salad. It consists of an abundance of fresh garden herbs, jumbled together with bulgur, citrus and olive oil, which paint this salad an unmistakable green. You might also call tabbouleh a very greedy salad, since there seems to be no limit to the fresh herbs it will absorb.

Tabbouleh is a staple in Levantine cuisine, where warm weather salads refresh and nourish. It’s a satisfying dish that can serve as a light main course or as an accompaniment to grilled meat, fish and vegetables, or it can be packed into pita pockets with crumbled feta and a drizzle of garlicky yogurt.

The key to making this salad is to constantly taste for flavor and texture as you build it. Tabbouleh should be fresh and bright, juicy and crunchy. Add finely chopped cucumber, peppers and onion for freshness, sweetness and a little heat. Keep the dice as uniform as possible. Chop entire bunches of parsley, cilantro and mint, and fold the greens into the salad. Then chop more; the greener the tabbouleh, the better. Taste. There should be a balance of citrus, spice and a kick of heat. Then refrigerate the salad for at least one hour to allow the ingredients to relax and mingle and the flavors to develop.

Tabbouleh Salad

Active time: 30 minutes

Total time: 30 minutes, plus mingling time

Yield: Serves 4 to 6

1 1/2 cups bulgur

1 1/4 cups hot water

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon cayenne, or to taste

3 scallions, white and green parts thinly sliced

1/2 English cucumber or 2 Persian cucumbers, seeded, finely diced

1 red bell pepper, stemmed and seeded, finely diced

1 green jalapeno or serrano pepper, seeded, finely chopped

1 bunch fresh Italian parsley leaves and tender stems, chopped

1 bunch fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems, chopped

1 small bunch fresh mint leaves, chopped

Crumbled feta cheese for sprinkling

Combine the bulgur, water, lemon juice, and olive oil in a bowl. Cover the bowl and let stand until the liquid is absorbed and the bulgur is tender, about 20 minutes. Fluff with a fork.

Add the garlic, cumin, coriander, salt, lemon zest, black pepper and cayenne and stir to blend. Stir in the scallions, cucumber and peppers, then fold in the fresh herbs. Taste for seasoning; don’t hold back on adding more if needed. If the bulgur is too dry, add additional olive oil or lemon juice.

Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour to allow the flavors to develop. Serve chilled or at room temperature.

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health

Taming the Sweet in the Potato

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | May 9th, 2022

Hasselback potatoes never fail to get a "wow" at the dinner table. These accordion-shaped potatoes are lovely to look at, and a basting method while roasting ensures that flavor permeates the potato and crisps all the fine edges. Any potato can be prepared this way, including sweet potatoes, which may be the most striking presentation, since they fan out to reveal their orange jeweled flesh while roasting.

To make Hasselback sweet potatoes, choose long, relatively stable and straight potatoes. The key is to cut as many thin slices as possible, crosswise, along the length of the potato. To do this -- without a wayward potato rolling across your cutting board -- slice a sliver of each potato lengthwise along its base to stabilize it on a work surface and in the baking dish to prevent any wobbling or tilting. Then, place the potato on a work surface with a thin cutting board snugged up on either side of it. With a sharp knife, make narrow incisions crosswise in the potato, approximately 1/8-inch to 1/4-inch thick. The cutting boards will prevent the knife from cutting through the base of the potato. If a few bits break off, no worries; just continue to slice them if you can.

Arrange the potatoes in a baking dish and brush them with the spiced oil, making sure that the oil dribbles between all the crevices. Transfer to the oven and roast, basting once or twice if desired. When sweet potatoes roast, they will soften first before they begin to crisp. The potatoes are ready as soon as they are tender. If you decide to cook them longer to further crisp and char them, note that the interiors will be very soft.

Now, a word about a sweet potato’s, well, sweetness: In addition to a being a great source of fiber, vitamins and minerals, these roots have a notable helping of starch. When heated during the cooking process, the starch converts to maltose, or sugar, which delivers and amplifies the potato’s sweetness. I like to balance this notable sweetness with spices and fresh herbs, which rein in any rowdy sweetness and round out the flavors of the dish.

These potatoes make a wonderful and decorative side dish. For more embellishment, sprinkle crumbled cheese, such as cotija, or crisp bacon bits over the potato and call it a meal.

Hasselback Sweet Potatoes

Active Time: 20 minutes

Total Time: 1 hour and 20 minutes

Yield: Serves 4 to 6

4 medium-large sweet potatoes

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus extra for finishing

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus extra for finishing

1/4 cup chopped fresh herbs, such as parsley, chives or mint

Heat the oven to 400 degrees.

Cut a very thin slice lengthwise from the bottom of each potato to stabilize it. Cut each potato crosswise, as thinly as possible (1/8- to 1/4-inch-thick slices), to about 1/4-inch from the bottom without piercing the base. Place in a baking dish or on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment.

Whisk the oil, salt, garlic powder, cumin, paprika and pepper in a small bowl. Liberally brush the potatoes all over and in the crevices with the oil.

Transfer the potatoes to the oven and roast until they are tender and beginning to crisp, 45 minutes to 1 hour, depending on the size of the potatoes. Baste once or twice with the oil, if desired.

Remove from the oven and season with additional salt and pepper. Garnish with the fresh herbs. Serve warm.

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health

Demystifying the Artichoke

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | May 2nd, 2022

For many, the artichoke is confounding. While considered a delicacy in Mediterranean and Californian cuisine, for the uninitiated, figuring out how to unearth its prized heart can be a mystery.

The artichoke is the bud of a thistle. The leaves cover a hairy center, or choke, perched over the meaty heart, which is the artichoke’s culinary treasure. It takes a little bit of work, admittedly, but once you understand the do’s and don’ts of trimming and cooking an artichoke, it’s a breeze, if not a sport.

Large or globe artichokes can grow to the size of a small melon. They are often green; if you are lucky, in the springtime you can snag beautiful purple artichokes. The flavor difference between green and purple artichokes is subtle; purple artichokes are slightly heartier and earthier in flavor, but the distinction is minimal.

The outer leaves of an artichoke are tough and inedible, but the underlying leaves are more tender with a layer of meat. The meat on the base of the inner leaves can be scraped off with your teeth when you eat.

Clearly, none of this is intuitive.

Steaming artichokes is the easiest and healthiest method of preparation, and the best bet for retaining their subtle flavor (if you boil them, they will be watery). To prepare, you need to trim the artichoke first. As you trim, be sure to rub all the cut parts with lemon juice to prevent discoloration, which happens quickly. Begin at the base or stem; cut it off, leaving about 1/2-inch intact. Using a serrated knife, cut about 1 inch off the top. Again, rub all the cut parts with lemon. Then pull off and discard the tough outer leaves at the base and sides of the artichoke. Using kitchen scissors, cut the pointy tips of the remaining leaves (this is both for appearance and to prevent nicking when you handle the artichoke -- it’s a thistle, after all). Rub again with lemon.

Place the artichoke in a steamer filled with 1 to 2 inches of water. Squeeze the rest of the lemon over the artichoke and in the water, then throw the lemon into the steamer with the artichoke. If you like, you can add a few crushed garlic cloves or a bay leaf to the water. (I often do this to feel more chef-y, but frankly, I have yet to discern any distinct flavor from this step.)

Steam the artichoke until the base is tender -- but not too soft or mushy -- when pierced with a knife, and the leaves easily pull away. This could take anywhere from 35 to 45 minutes, depending on the size of the artichoke. Yes, it’s vague, but once you’ve done this once or twice, you’ll have a feel for your preferred level of doneness.

Remove the artichoke from the steamer and cool to the touch. If serving the artichoke as is, present it whole and let everyone do the leaf-pulling. A layer of meat will be at the base of the leaves and should be scraped off with your teeth. Serve with a dipping sauce, such as an aioli or a vinaigrette. Keep nibbling on the leaves until the softest, flappiest leaves remain. You can pull them all out together at this point to expose the hairy choke.

Using a spoon, scoop out and discard all the bits of the choke to unearth the meaty prize: the heart. You can then tussle over how to divide the heart between yourselves. (Note that the choke in large artichokes is inedible and must be removed. However, in baby artichokes, the choke is relatively unformed and can be eaten -- but that’s for another recipe.)

Artichoke hearts are a key ingredient in this dip, so the entire preparation must be done in advance. When the leaves are pulled away, reserve them for eating the dip. To serve, dip the leaves into the dip and scrape the meat from the leaves with your teeth. You can also serve the dip with crudites.

This recipe is inspired by a recipe from Ocean Mist Farm.

White Bean and Artichoke Dip

Active time: 20 minutes

Total time: 1 hour

Yield: Makes about 1 1/2 cups

2 purple or green artichokes

1 lemon, halved

1 (15-ounce) can white cannellini beans, drained

Juice and zest of one untreated lemon (divided)

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves

1 teaspoon kosher salt, or more to taste

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or more to taste

Dash or two of hot sauce, such as Tabasco

Using a serrated knife, cut off the stems of the artichokes, leaving about 1/2-inch intact. Cut about 1 inch off the tops of the artichokes. Peel away the outer leaves. Rub the artichokes with a lemon half. Place in a steamer filled with about 1 inch of water. Squeeze the remaining juice from the lemon halves into the steamer and add the lemons. Cover the pot, bring to a boil, and steam until the leaves easily pull away from the artichokes, 35 to 45 minutes, depending on size of the artichokes.

Remove the artichokes from the steamer and cool to the touch. Peel away the sturdy leaves and reserve. Remove the soft inner leaves and discard. With a small spoon, scoop out the chokes and discard, leaving the hearts exposed. Dice the hearts and place in a food processor with the remaining ingredients. Process until smooth. Taste for seasoning.

Spoon the dip into a bowl. Garnish with freshly ground black pepper and lemon zest. Serve with the reserved artichoke leaves for dipping. As you eat the dip, scrape the remaining meat on the leaves with your teeth, which will amplify the artichoke flavor of the dip.

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